Jump to content

Most Liked Content

Ford Fiesta Mk7.5 Rear Diffuser Upgrade (ST)

Posted Nathan54771 on 30 March 2014 - 02:14 PM in Ford Fiesta Guides

Heres A Guide To Help The Removal/Fitting Of The Rear Diffuser On A MK7.5 Fiesta Zetec S To An ST  http://static.autocl...IR#/biggrin.png
These are the parts you will need/require....
£52.76 Upper Honeycomb Deflector- 1819019 (Ford Part Number) 
£63.26 Lower Primed Deflector- 1818433 (Ford Part Number)  
Both parts above can also be purchased at pumaspeed and european parts (higher cost)
£29.99 Ripspeed Twin Tail Pipe
photo (1).JPG
2x 6mm Plastic Flanged Nut
Self Tappers 6mm Or Ford Pot Rivets (Part Number:1555829)
Process (Once Lower Diffuser Part Has Been Sprayed Colour Choice)
Cost Me £50 To Have It Professionally Sprayed Candy Blue
1. Firstly getting the back of the car onto axle stands or ramps etc will help with and makes things easier with more room.
2. Then you will need to remove the pot rivets from the original diffuser, i found a 6mm drill bit worked perfect when used in the centre (be careful and take your time, so you dont push the rivet into the plastic as you drill as the plastics only soft) until the pot rivet head comes off and then the centre of the rivet can be pushed out of the hole. There's three on each side under the corner flaps.
photo (3).JPG
3. Once the pot rivets are removed you can then slowly give the diffuser a pull from corner to corner and as it starts to come away, a flathead screwdriver helps to push the tab ledge in to remove from the slot.
4. You can then fit the two parts of the new ST diffuser together, they simply align together and then tabs fit into the slots and lock it in place. 
5. Once the two diffuser parts are together you can align it to the rear of the car and start to push the tabs of the upper part into the bumper of the car, give it a gentle tap with your palm once aligned and check its all flush to the bumper.
6. You can then screw the self tappers into the holes of the new diffuser and should line up with some of the holes of the old diffuser or if you've got the original ford pot rivets (Part Number:1555829) then put them in and tighten up using a pot rivet gun.
photo (3).JPG
7. Also while there the 6mm flanged plastic nuts can be fitted to the two tabs in the centre of the new ST diffuser using a 10mm spanner or 10mm socket.
photo (7).JPG
8. Now the new diffuser is fitted and secure, give a final push to make sure its all pushed in and flush with the bumper. You can then proceed to cutting a couple of inches (the bend) from the original exhaust. I used an air grinder with a cutting disc and slowly went through it straight up.
photo (9).JPG
9. Then you can put the twin tail pipe (chosen exhaust tail) onto the straight part of the remaining original exhaust, align it until your happy with it and then tighten it up with a 10mm deep socket or spanner.
photo (8).JPG
10. Congratulations you've then got your new ST diffuser fitted and should look something like this...
photo (6).JPG
photo (4).JPG
photo (2).JPG
Total Cost= £196.01
Hope this helps and if anyone has any queries or questions dont hesitate to drop me a pm, always happy to help.
Thanks Again to E5GDM (He did it first) for the idea and information towards this cosmetic modification/upgrade

Got An Error On Your Car?

Posted jeebowhite on 03 December 2013 - 03:46 PM in General Ford Guides - Modern Fords

Most of us are driving around with errors on our car, and we don't even realise it. Mainly because the small niggles don't affect our day to day driving. Focus owners are lucky as they have the "Secret Dash Trick" but what if you don't own a Focus? and you don't have a trip computer?
The easiest way for us on the forums to help you, is if you have an "OBD" Scanner - and you may be surprised that they are DIRT cheap!
OBD is the cars "On Board Diagnostics" system. If there is an error with your car sensor, or another error that you are either well aware of (or perhaps not). then OBD might just save you £60 minimum diagnostics fee with a dealer, and perhaps a whole lot more in repairs...
What is OBD?
On Board Diagnostics has been in use for many years, as early as 1996 a lot of cars have it. From 2001 (Petrol) and 2004 (Diesel) the standard of OBDII came in, and all cars after this time will have an OBDII interface that you can use.
Not only can OBD be used to diagnose issues, but it also allows you to monitor the likes of efficiency in your car. there are so many applications available that will read the data in different ways, if you want an app for 0-60 with BHP readouts - Torque Pro.
If you want an app for your economy usage "Efficiency (Free)" can be your new best friend.
Does my car have OBD?
The requirement is that an OBDII connection MUST be accessible to the driver within 2 feet of the driver position.
The usual location is about knee height and on the right or left side of your knee (depending on the LHD or RHD model you own).
Its normally recessed, and running your hand along the dash you will feel it, it may perhaps be hidden under the steering column, behind a panel (look for a removable panel somewhere around the dashboard at knee height) or behind an ashtray.
There also tends to be one on the bulkhead of the engine compartment. Mst likely under a cover, so check your fusebox, and you may see it.
How do I use OBD?
You can buy a universal adapter that will fit any car with an OBD socket. See below links to a couple of types (Bluetooth) and an example USB version.
Smartphone Users:
Look at your smartphones App Store for a program called "Torque" - this comes in a freeware version and a Paid for version.
Torque allows you to scan for and clear down error codes, also clicking the error code can take you to a page where you can see in plain english - what the error means. It allows you to view live data readings and also map out your vehicles data (downloadable to PC).
Two types of Bluetooth Adapters for sale on ebay:

Laptop Users:
You can buy a USB version that will plug into your laptop. they tend to come with drivers and applications that you can use to interact with your car's data.
Also, if you purchase a modified ELM 327 cable with a High and Medium speed can bus (click here for more information) then you can use software such as ForScan. This is an excellent piece of software that debugs more than just Ford's but allows you to automatically scan High and Medium speed for errors, view in clear text the errors seen, and reset them in turn. I have used this and find it an excellent piece of free software.
Please see a guide on using FORSCAN here: http://www.fordowner...rs-on-your-car/
Any User:
I Forgot when writing this that there is the entirely seperate "standalone" code reader. Its a handheld device that will read the code and control it through a handheld unit, prices for these differ, as little as £10.00 and up to a lot more. You can buy these for an average of £25 - £30 for a relatively branded unit.
Which OBD version do I have?
OBDII is the current standard but there have been other releases before. The older your car, the older the OBD support, so vehicles around 1996 will be OBD 1 and later vehicles 1.5 or 2. Always contact the seller if you are unsure if the device you are looking to purchase is compatible with your car.
Generally speaking, if your car is older than 2004, you will probably have an OBDI device, and not an OBDII device. Again, refer to the seller to identify if this is the correct one for you.
Why should I buy into this?
Combination of an OBD adapter, and software to accompany it, most of the time will come in under £15. For that money, you have a way to track your cars readings, and check all the error codes. A simple problem with a sensor could cost you as little as £60 to diagnose with a dealer, and then whatever ludicrous labour fee's are applicable to resolve this issue. If you are handy with a spanner, or know someone who is, your first problem resolution will only cost you £15 plus whatever cost for the part, any problems after that you are self diagnosing for free.
Providing the members of this forum with error codes means that we can provide you with more accurate details, and suggestions to resolve your problems.
Please note that when you buy an adapter of this nature, there ARE limitations.
These adapters and software combinations cannot diagnose some systems, ABS and Airbag for example, but it can clear there error codes.
Will It damage my car?
Budget OBDII readers can only ever read data from the engine, and switch the Engine Management Light off - 99.9% of scanners on the market will not damage your car. Be wary of buying from abroad, as these may be cheaper still, but these are the 0.01% that may damage your car.
What About Apple?
Unfortunately, Apple is an issue for this sort of task. Apple use a hybrid "bluetooth" stack, which although claims to be bluetooth, its not "bluetooth" by the rest of the worlds description, its more "Apple's rewriting of bluetooth". Its generally seen that Bluetooth adapters wont work with Apple, and you may be better off getting a WiFi adapter and connect to this.
For apple compatible devices though (Wi-Fi or bluetooth)
There's this: https://itunes.apple...d591557194?mt=8
that I have heard of.  but they do say if you have a bluetooth adapter, to contact support before hand.
Alternatively, suggestion is that https://itunes.apple... a code reader.is a good tool to use, but again, ensure that they confirm it will work, or at least get refund reassurances.
The most expensive I have seen yet (but best reported on) is REV: https://itunes.apple...avy investment.
So that's it - its a cheap, and harmless way to get information from your cars computer. Whether error diagnostics, or to see how much damage you are doing to the environment, or if you just want to brag to your friends about what your current BHP reads at.
So, I hope this inspires you! Many who buy an adapter never look back, I have yet to come across a single individual who has regretted buying one. But remember, buy cheap but don't expect the world, but these cheap adapters could be more than enough to dig you out of a hole. If you want to buy something better, there are more than enough tools out there that you can look to upgrade to. Scanguage is an excellent device and there are a lot of other handheld units that could improve the result.
If you have any questions, look around the forum, or feel free to send me a PM and I will be happy to help. If there is enough interest, I am sure all of us here will be happy to help you if you need to start a thread.
Please remember, the above links are not recommendations, we are not gaining any revenue from advertising them, but I can say that I own two of them and they work fine for me ;)

GUIDE How to create playlists on removable flash drive FordSync

Posted L22EEW on 15 April 2015 - 08:49 PM in General Ford Guides - Modern Fords

!GUIDE! – How to create playlists on removable flash drive – FordSync

As we know, FordSync can be a pain in the beeswax – when it comes to playlists.  I decided no longer to use my iPod touch in the Fiesta, and wanted to opt for a tiny flash drive.  I purchased a Kingston 32GB DataTraveler microDuo OTG USB flash Drive, pick it up from Amazon for less than £10
I did follow some others guide, recommending to use MediaMonkey to create the playlists.  Which turned out to be more hassle than what it’s worth.  Finally I found something so simple in creating playlists on a USB drive, and I can confirm that this works in my MK7.5 Fiesta, Titanium (with Sony DAB).
If you have already got a flash drive to hand, then you’ll first need to download the 2 programs: MP3Tag & Playlist creator
https://www.dropbox....9setup.exe?dl=0 (MP3Tag)
https://www.dropbox...._Setup.exe?dl=0 (Playlist Creator)
If you’re like me and like to download Podcasts, you’ll learn that these usually download in 1 single file.  I then split these files into 5 minute segments, using a program called MP3Splitter (this step won’t be included in the guide, as it may not have any relevance to you).  Once I have split the Podcast down into 5 minute segments, I then have to use MP3Tag to rename the file name. You’ll need to open MP3Tag, then open the folder containing the music files you wish to create a playlist for, highlight all files, then drag and drop into MP3Tag
As you can see, the file name will need editing, so rather than it being:
I Like It Like This-01.mp3
I Like It Like This-02.mp3
I Like It Like This-03.mp3
I Like It Like This-04.mp3
…and so on!
I’m going to rename the filename like this:
…and so on!
Next step, plug your USB flash drive into your computer.  Then find that folder you've just edited in MP3Tag, and drag and drop onto the USB flash drive:
Next open Playlist Creator, then drag the folder you've just added to the USB flash drive, over to the Playlist Creator program
Next make sure that they show in numeric order in the Playlist Creator program.  If they do not show in numeric order, then click on the filename tab, and the files will sort numerically
Next click on the folder icon (1), select the folder that you dragged from the USB flash drive to Playlist Creator (2), then click on OK (3)
Check that the folder has been selected correctly (1), Type in the name of the playlist (2), select .m3u (3), then finally click on Create Playlist (4). 
Once playlist has been created, click on OK
If successful, go back to the USB flash drive folder, open the folder you’ve just created the playlist for, and you should see the M3U file in the directory.
When you have completed creating the playlists, right click on the USB flash drive, and click eject.  You can test to see if the playlist has been created correctly, by plugging the flash drive into the USB slot in your vehicle.  When the FordSync screen shows, select "playlists" and your playlists on your USB flash drive will show, and hopefully play without any issues.  Once again I can confirm the following steps above do work,  as I've spent most of the day trialling/testing.








I hope that you've found this guide of use.

Mondeo 2.0 And 2.2 Tdci - Fuel Filter Replacement

Posted stef123 on 13 April 2013 - 02:47 AM in Ford Mondeo Guides

Here is a simple guide on how to replace the diesel fuel filter on a mk3 Mondeo ST 2.2 TDCI without any starting problems!
I believe the 2.0 TDCI Mondeo MK3 uses the same filter as does the 1.8 TDCI focus MK1
You will need:
8mm and 13mm sockets (optional)
Ratchet (optional)
Fuel filter - Bosch 0 450 906 508 my old Bosch filter has part number 1 457 434 442 and is slightly different.
A large syringe. I used a 60ml syringe.
Fresh diesel
This can be done with only a few rags and a syringe or if you wish to have extra room to work you will need an 8mm socket and a 13mm (deep preferably) socket and ratchet.

In my guide I have removed the metal brace for clarity and to show how its done if you so wish to do it this way.

So you will need a new fuel filter, I bought a Bosch filter as they make the original and at less than half the Ford price it's a no brainer. A Bosch filter can be had for around £20 including postage.
I change my fuel filter every 12-18 months, covering approx 20k miles a year.
Lets have a look at the filter: (note the arrows and port sizes)
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Next you will need to open the bonnet and look at the rear of the engine on the left hand side, you should see the filter hiding down there.
Posted Image
Remove the 7 nuts/bolts holding the metal brace and remove it completely (5x 13mm head nuts and bolts, 2x 8mm bolts) And you should be left with this
Posted Image
For the next stage it is advisable to cover the alternator with some rags as there will be some spillage and it WILL drop onto the alternator.
The clips holding the fuel pipes onto the filter now need to be released, simply push the 2 locking clips using 2 fingers (no need for any tools - they are very simply to release) and push the clip forward. once its unlocked pull the clip out as far as it will come. Do this for all 3 pipes then pull the pipes off and move them slightly so they are not in the way of the filter coming out, you will have some diesel leaking out now.
Posted Image
Now that the pipes are disconnected, pull the filter upwards, noting that the filter is housed in a metal bracket which slides onto 3 plastic clips.You might find the filter comes out without the metal housing, even better if it does.
You should be left with this: (I have started removing the filter from the metal housing)
Posted Image
Remove the old filter from the bracket and discard of it safely - mind it is full of fuel.
Now have your missus stand holding the filter while you fill/prime it with diesel. Remember to fill it on the inlet port as you don't want any dirt getting to the injectors! Once the filter is full (took about 400ml IIRC) you might see the level drop down again - don't worry about this yet, its just the paper element soaking in the diesel.
Posted Image
Once the filter is full, refit it to the metal bracket and then slide the assembly back into the car making sure it catches all 3 clips - this can be tricky.
Once its back in and secure, you can top up with diesel if required and fit all 3 pipes again - noting that the smaller port goes to the front. the pipes simply slide back on and when fully home just push the clip back in to lock it. Remove your rags from the alternator and clean up any mess.
Refit the metal brace then stand back and look at your shiny new filter:
Posted Image
Now its time to start the car, and if you have followed this guide correctly it WILL start first time and continue running no problem. Leave the car idling for a minute to check for leaks, test drive after this if you so desire.
Stick the tools back in the shed, wash the hands and grab a beer! :)
Well done you have just changed your fuel filter - should take around 10-15 minutes.
Here is a pic of the old filter part number:
Posted Image
If you are changing the fuel filter on your car, you do so at your own risk. I take no responsibility for any damage caused and you should always fully understand the risks of whats involved before you start.

Accident Survival Guide

Posted jeebowhite on 11 September 2014 - 01:56 PM in General Ford Guides - Modern Fords

Hey Guys,
Most of you out there have been fortunate enough to have not had any accidents. I hope that fortune stays with you, but this guide is for those who have! using my own personal experience and knowledge, I hope it helps you in your quest for surviving the maze of insurance mayhem that follows!
Attached and below, I have provided you a sheet to print out and stick in your glovebox. Should you find yourself in the unfortunate situation you need this help, it will go through everything with you. Its a one stop sheet I created on the basis of my experience and details that are really handy to remember. It reminds you the information you need, the photographs best taken and all the details you require at the scene of the accident to make your life easier.
Attached File  Accident Survival Sheet.pdf   201.05KB   85 Number of downloads
Always remember:
Injury - (requires) Police - (otherwise) Details - Pictures - Witnesses
First things first, you make sure that all parties are uninjured. If anyone reports any injury (no matter how small the neck ache is) you should phone for an ambulance. Coming from a first aider and whiplash victim, the slightest ache can quickly deteriorate into a much worse injury. 4 hours after I was shunted, even though I had managed to drive with an ache for an hour, my injuries developed and I was taken by car to Hospital and diagnosed with serious whiplash.
In accidents where any injury is sustained the Police must be informed and attend the scene. I didnt call the police after my crash and it made things more complicated during the claims process. The police would need to come out and do an accident report, detailing the environment, taking statements, details, witnesses etc. (they would complete the DPW of this section for you.
In the event that an accident is not serious enough, and no injury has occurred, and police are not required, you must exchange details. You want to get as much off the other person as possible, this includes the following:
Drivers Name:
Vehicle Owners Name:
Drivers Address:
Drivers Insurance Company:
Vehicle Reg:
Vehicle Colour:
Vehicle Observed Damage:
Reason Given For Accident:
NEVER ADMIT LIABILITY AT THE ROAD SIDE - unless you are willing to pay for all damages out of your own pocket you should never admit liability, even if it was your fault. You should leave it to the insurers to do. Once you apologise and lay reference to it being your fault, you are then under extreme scrutiny, the last thing you want here is the insurer to start looking at a way to avoid paying out. They may even send a damage assessor to your car and look for anything on your car that might save them paying out. Just exchange the details and leave it to the insurer to assess liability.
Take photo's of everything.
  • The road in all directions of the scene of the accident.
  • a photo facing the direction of vehicle travel and capture the road and the sky to show the conditions of the environment under which your driving.
  • The ground around the scene of the accident and behind the vehicles to show that the road may / may not have played a part in the accident.
  • Damage of your vehicle from all angles > Above, Central, Left, Right, below as necessary
  • Open the panels of the impacted side (bonnet, boot, doors) and take photos with these open to show the impact zone and the immediately visible damage.
  • Damage to the other vehicle (this stops them driving off and driving into a bollard and claiming that it was part of the damage commited in your accident)
  • Other party number plate (also worth getting the VIN Number)
  • Driving Licenses
  • Other Driver (sneak them into a picture of the damaged cars)
  • Any fluids on the floor and try to get an image of where they are leaking from
  • Any debris on the floor that may contribute to the accident
Write down details of any witnesses that you may have around you, make a note if you have a DASHCAM and ensure that it has recorded the incident. Secure the file and protect it to ensure its not removed accidentally, download it as soon as possible and upload it to the internet for safe keeping. If the incident occurred outside of a residential area, go door knocking after you have exchanged details and ask if they have / know of any neighbours who may have CCTV setup. This can become very useful in further investigations.
I have attached to this guide something I have put together. Its a document to put in your glove box so if you find you are ever involved in an accident you can run through this checksheet. Often small details may be forgotten, and certain photos may not have been taken, so this document should help to remind you of everything you need in order to answer all your insurers questions, and makes sure you provide the absolute maximum infortmation to the insurers to assist with the investigation and liability identification.
If you think the document should be updated or reflect changes, let me know and I will make the changes :)
Advising your insurer of an accident
With any incident, you really should advise your insurer that a potential claim will be made. You should always let them know something has happened. If you do not advise them quick enough, then they will be able to refuse paying out. You should advise your insurer within 3 days of an accident and if there is an injury developed as a result of the accident, you should also visit your local police station.
When you advise your insurer, keep the attached and completed form to hand, this will save you having to recall all the details of the incident and makes the process of talking to the insurer a lot easier. Sometimes you may not get to speak to the insurer until a day or two later, likewise the stress and pain (if you have any) and the painkillers can all affect your memory.
The best thing to remember here is that a memory is only a true memory once. After that, you start to remember the previous recollection of the event and not the actual event, which can then reshape the story. At the end of the day you want to ensure that all information provided is accurate first time round.
Why do I need to contact the Police?
If you have a personal injury from the incident, the police need to complete an Road Traffic Accident report, however if they are not on scene, you need to attend a station and complete a Self Assessment Report. You will be guided through this by the Police contact at the station and is a simple enough process.
The issue wasnt my fault, I cant be without a car!
You dont have to be. If the insurers believe that you have a strong case to suggest you are not the liable party in the incident, you can be arranged with cover. During my accident, my insurer used "Albany Assistance". They put me through to them, and within 20 minutes I had a hire car booked in for delivery. They take details of you, your vehicle and the accident, and also the claim reference details with the insurer. They then (whilst your on hold) contact your insurer and confirm when your vehicle is booked in for repairs. This is the start date of your hire car, and the estimate by the garage for completion of the job is the end date of the agreement. In the event this needs to be extended, just call Albant Assistance and they will contact the insurer, get an update and extend the lease.
I was driving a CMAX 1.6 TDCI CVT Auto at the time, and I was provided with a Toyota Auris 1.9TDI Automatic for the two week duration the car was in the garage. I had about half a day without a car and that was all! They drop the car at your door and take it away!
What costs are assosciated with a rental car?
Depending on the scheme you use, I paid a £15 fuel charge, and £30 excess protection. This was in case the car was damaged (as could easily happen on my road) and so was a worthwhile investment. You also have the first quarter of a tank of fuel free. Any further fuel you pay for as with any other rental car!
This accident is going to cost me a fortune!
Your right, it is! Lets make no bones about it, it will cost you money. But this is where legal protection comes in. Every penny assoscaited with an accident, record it! put a spreadsheet together, and every mile you drive as a result of this accident (to a garage, to a doctor etc) every parking ticket you need to pay, every item you need to buy - document absolutely everything. I had to put down the cost of two new child seats, along with over 500 miles of travel, £20 worth of parking tickets, Every penny spent - record it, and contact your insurer. Give them a breakdown of the costs, and if you have legal cover, the solicitors will complete all the work for you and get it back in any final claim.
I had an injury but didnt tell the insurer?
As soon as you recognise there is an injury, tell them. If you leave it too long, they will likely refuse to support you, as you will then need to prove you are not putting it on. You really need to tell the insurer everything, no matter how small - tell them! if in 3 weeks time its deemed not serious, then you can all stop doing anything, but if it gets worse....
Why Should I tell me insurer about an injury?
No matter how small it is, you could get physiotherapy, if nothing else you will get an assessment. In my case, I had an assessment a week after the injury and the review identified that the injury was too raw to work with, I had to wait a further two weeks before they could do anything with me! Also if you are entitled to any financial compensation, they are the only ones who can do this for you.
What should I expect after reporting an accident to the insurer?
Lots of phone calls from solicitors, Personal Injury specialists, and call centres from anywhere in the world asking if they can support you through your difficult time. Your details should never be sold, but they always get out. Your insurer might not tell them your telephone number, but your details are passed onto the National Accident Database. Your details are then cross checked with alsorts of marketing databases and your details found.
Beyond that, you should expect a long wait and a lot of phone calls. My claim is just finishing, 6.5 months later (this is as far as the accident repair is concerned). THe process is long and drawn out, and your insurer may not be the best at communicating. You should phone for updates where you feel you dont have enough information, and you should also contact the repairing garage for their realtime updates.
If you have the legal cover element, you should expect a 6 - 12 month process of completing forms, interviews, medical assessments and little communication. They do a lot but most of the process is talking behind the scenes.
Why does the process take so long for compenation.
The general process is long winded, the process you go through will differ, but as a general rule the process is as follows:
0-4 weeks - Car should be booked in for repairs, if not repaired already.
4-6 weeks  - Initial recovery and recouperation (this can include physiotherapy)
6-12 weeks - liability should be accepted by either party, you should also be seen for your medical asessment by an independant body
12-18 weeks - the solicitors confirm details with the independant body of your injuries and begin to diagnose the severity of your injury and translate that into monetary value.
18-32 weeks - your solicitors is arguing on your behalf the value of your claim and negotiating the value of your claim. A proposal is sent to you to agree, and you sign to clarify you are satisfied with the offer they are looking to make.
They then send this to the other party who has 21 days! to reply and either accept, or provide a counteroffer. the counteroffer must be made in writing to you by your insurers (or verbally over a recorded phone line) to accept or reject the offer. If you reject the offer, then a second counteroffer from your insurer must be made. This again allows for 21 days! for a reply. The other party can again make a counter offer. Again the offer must be made to you and you should accept or reject. In the event you accept, the compensation goes through, however, if you reject, then the solicitor would start court proceedings.
32weeks and beyond - its highly likely by this point your insurer has not agreed any payout for you and the court proceedings are taking place. If this should occur, you would need to attend court and represent yourself and answer the appropriate questions, detailing your injuries and struggles.
What are my options should the car be written off?
In the event that your car is damaged beyond economical repair, it will be written off under one of four catagories:
Catagory A: The car should never be seen on the roads ever again, its highly unlikely a single part of it is usable. Its for the great scrapheap in the sky and nothing else!
Catagory B: The car should never be seen on the roads ever again. Its probably got a few bits you could save and recycle, but the shell must be crushed. It might make a nice drinks can in the future.
Catagory C: The car may appear on the roads. The car is usable, and it is saveable, but it needs to be repaired to MOT passing standards. The costs of repairs through the nominated garage are just too high and exceed the value of the vehicle. VIC check is required along with an MOT to appear on the roads again.
Catagory D: The car may appear on the roads. The cost of repairs is significant to the value of the vehicle, its probably better we give you the money and you throw the last few pounds at it and get an equal spec motor, rather than having yours repaired and catagory damaged. VIC check is required along with an MOT to appear on the roads again.
Your options are as follows if your car is written off:
1) Buy Back - The insurer may offer to sell you the vehicle at a bottom dollar rate, and pay you the different between the Buy Back price and the current market value. You can then repair the vehicle by your own means, you can repair it in your personal garage if you wish, but you must complete a Vehicle Inspection Check with DVLA. Once this is complete, and you get it through an MOT your car is legally allowed to appear on the roads.
2) Gifted - The car may be given to you by your insurer depending on its value, and the vehicles value also given to you. Some insurers do this as the cost of processing and recycling the vehicle can exceed its value in the first place. As long as its cosmetic or easily repaired (Cat D / Cat C standard) and the value is low, they may just do this. The vehicle is marked as a write off, and you may get to keep both. You may need to complete an MOT to ensure the vehicle remains roadworthy and your insurer should advise you if you require a Vehicle Identity Check with the DVLA. If the vehicle isnt lifted off the ground though (as in chucked on a lorry and taken somewhere, or transported to a garage) then its unlikely you will require it.
3) Give Up -  Just give the insurer the car, they give you the full market value of the vehicle, you take this money and run, replace the car with something else and forget about the entire situation.
The insurer has written my car off, what can I do if they offer me peanuts?
Most insurers are needing to save money everywhere. As such, at the point of a write off, they may offer you only a fraction of the vehicles value. In the event of any serious accident (one that looks like its going to need more than T Cut to repair!) you should start searching for a replacement car.
Visit the likes of Auto Trader and motor traders / garages with similar motors. You need to find the top 10 cars with the same spec, mileage and generally the same motor off these websites, and take the top 10 highest price vehicles that closely match the value. If your top 10 cars come back as offering a value of between £2000 and £2200, but your insurer is only offering you £1800, you have sufficient case to reject their offer and request closer to the value you have found. Find the top 3 that you would be looking to purchase, they need to be relatively close to you, and of similar spec and mileage. If those top 3 average £2100 value, then your insurer is obliged to consider upping the offer by £300. If you dont do this, you could be losing out.
I am really not satisfied with my insurers performance at all
The first port of call is to lodge a complaint with your insurer. You should allow them a reasonable period of time to reply. If they do not, or do not reply satisfactorily, you must escalate the complaint with your insurer. Again, they should reply and satisfactorily, if after the entire investigation you are still not satisfied....
You can raise a complaint to the Insurance Ombudsman should you be extremely dissatisfied with the performance of your insurer.Under most circumstances, if you have taken it this far, it will be sorted to a satisfactory conclusion.
Its worth noting that all insurers are authorised and regulated by the FCA (Financial Conduct Authority). They would not be able to assist in matters of complaints of performance (this is the insurance ombudsman's role), however, if you feel they have breached your rights in the form of mis-selling or disregarding their rights to you under any financial element, then you may find that any complaints investigated by the Insurance Ombudsman may refer you to the FCA.
I was hit by an uninsured driver - What do I do?
The MIB (Motor Insurance Bureau) can offer support if you have been hit by an uninsured or untraced driver and suffer serious financial loss they can assist you and pay compensation. If you find yourself stuck in this position  its always worth contacting them (click here to visit the contact page of the site).
Things to be cautious of after an accident
Phone calls from third parties of all shapes and sizes will come about,and this is where conmen will take advantage. If you have legal cover on your insurance policy, unless you have a private solicitor you know who can carry the claim for you, take the solicitor that is recommended by your insurance company. If you dont have a solicitor, contact local firms, most are happy to offer a free consultation in the first place. If you do go with them, get the expectations of the claim laid out, the cost assosciated and approximate fees that you will agree to. Most solicitors will tell you straight up the estimated costs, times and values of your claims so you can make a decision on whether you want to proceed.
If anyone calls claimig to be from the MIB, Your insurance or any other organisation you are not familiar with, or are not expecting a call off, do not make arrangements for them to collect your car. Instead, hang up, find the contact details online and call them back. Ask to speak to the person you just spoke to and then continue the conversation. If you hang up and your phone does not have a dial tone, do not make the call.
SandyCat knew of someone who made arrangements with someone he thought was from the insurance, and his car was taken. This was all in all resulting in the loss of his car via theft.
Attached File  Accident Survival Sheet.pdf   201.05KB   85 Number of downloads
That my friends is all I can think to write for now. I hope that it helps you. Leave you rcomments, or send your messages as necessary :)
Thanks to Rick (SandyCat) for his contributions!

How to Fit a new Spoiler on a MK2 / Mk2.5 Focus

Posted Stoney871 on 13 April 2012 - 10:57 PM in Ford Focus Guides

Attached File  Fitting a MK2.5 Spoiler.pdf   418.25KB   3048 Number of downloads

Dash-Cam hard wiring (Mobius ActionCam)

Posted mixmasterlooney on 16 March 2014 - 05:11 PM in General Ford Guides - Modern Fords

Guide to hard wiring a dash cam (Mobius ActionCam)


Download PDF file including all photos with step by step instruction


Made by Kurt (mixmasterlooney) special credits to James (Higgsy) for his great idea

Attached File(s)

*Guide* To installing Bluefin onto your EcoBoost Fiesta

Posted Willy on 30 January 2014 - 05:14 PM in Ford Fiesta Guides

100bhp Technical data and link to buying handset

100bhp Bluefin.jpg

125bhp Technical data and link to buying handset

125bhp Bluefin.jpg

Genral info

http://www.mybluefin...oftware/bluefin installation . zip

The install is really easy.

1. Plug the Bluefin handset into your OBD port. This is found to the right of the steering wheel in a little cubby hole near your right knee.

Posted Image

2. follow the easy instructions on the Bluefin screen. It will ask you to turn your ignition on (DON'T start the car) and follow a set of instructions. It will save your cars original map onto the handset which takes about 10 minutes. once done turn off ignition, remove handset.

Posted Image

3. Install the Bluefin software from Superchips on your PC/laptop (Mac isn't compatible)

4. Plug the Bluefin handset into your PC with the USB cable provided. wait for the drivers to be installed. Run the Bluefin software and enter your personal details (internet connection required)

Posted Image

5. Connect to there server and upload the handset.

Posted Image

6. Wait for your map to be sent to you via email.

Posted Image

7. Connect handset to PC and run the Bluefin software. Click connect and wait for the map to load to the handset

Posted Image

8. Now out to the car an plug into the OBD port again. Turn ignition on (don't start)

9. Follow the on screen instructions.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Your car will start getting a bit unsettled at this point and display some interesting errors. Just ignore them and carry on.

Posted Image

Posted Image

10. Once its all installed you'll get this message

Posted Image

Keep following the remaining instructions then your done.

Fiesta Mk 6-6.5 (prefacelift-facelift) brakelight conversion

Posted DanGersFord on 21 November 2012 - 09:33 PM in Ford Fiesta Guides

The only difference between the mk 6 brake lights and the facelift brake lights is that the facelift lights have 2 reverse lights and 2 fog lights as opposed to the mk 6 prefacelift having a fog light one side and a reverse light on the other (See wiring diagrams). **Please note that there is a difference between the 3 door and 5 door versions of the brake light so make sure that you order the correct light units for your car**

Basically you need to buy the light units, the bulbs holders, new gasket seals (http://www.fordparts...17734_c_341.htm), a bit of 2core wire and detachable connecter plugs (http://www.autoelect...t/39/category/7 [9 terminals product code 051305])as the facelift lights are different from the original and try and get hold of a couple of push lock clips.
(same clips as at the top of the original prefacelift lights).

I got the lights/bulb holders/gaskets and push lock clips i needed from http://www.fordpartsuk.com/ (you may need to go to the parts request section of the site for the clips and bulb holders https://www.fordpart...artsrequest.htm) and managed to get the connector plugs from here (http://www.autoelect...t/39/category/7 [9 terminals product code 051305]).
You need to run the 2 core wire between the two sets of lights wiring up the connector plugs with the additional wires, wired in with the corresponding reverse/fog light on each side and tuck the wire behind the plastic just behind the boot carpet, and the wire each plug up the same as i have done so in the wiring diagrams (I applogise for poor quality diagrams I've never attempted to make one before lol)
Light Wiring.png
Plug Wiring.png
(This is the type of connector plug that i used)
Insert the push lock clips into the holes at the bottom (these are required as the facelift lights do not have the additional rod/wingnut in the boot to secure the lights into place) and I also applied a new seal around the hole for the wires at this point to prevent water ingression-someone had fitted a massive seal and siliconed it before which actually made it worse hence the reason for all the scratch marks as i had to removed the old silicone before fitting the new seals
DSC_04961.jpg .
Connect the plugs and push the lights into the clips and secure into place with the 2 screws.
The 2 bits hilighted in the picture push into the 2 clips on the car also pictured is the bulb holders (wiring harness) required.
I hope this helps anyone wanting to do this conversion as it is realy simple and great looking modification to make on the prefacelift model as the factory fitted lights aren't that nice. Just wanting to clear up any confusion as Ive looked all over for how to do it myself and theres nothing lol but it definately is possible and if you're not confident with wiring it shouldnt cost more than £20-30 to get an auto electrician to wire them in for you. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to contact me http://www.fordowner...48-dangersford/

.facebook_-766517941.jpg ,
.facebook_5463848051.jpg .

DSC_04631.jpg ,
Id recommend purchasing a set of Cree w5w 501 reverse lights (http://www.amazon.co...t/dp/B00B4QHG7O)
and also a set of silver vision indicator bulbs to prevent you getting the fried egg effect :) (http://www.autobulbs...ator-bulbs.html)

I appologise for the wiring diagram quality I've never tried to make one up before lol. Hopefully its of use to you.

Guide To Creating A Convincing Dummy Head Unit

Posted Brigante on 14 November 2012 - 01:33 AM in Ford Focus Guides

Guide now complete :)

Ok so this is my second attempt at a guide and may be useful to anyone who's fitted or thinking of buying an aftermarket head unit that will be appealing to scum bags and thieves alike and result in getting your windows smashed.

For my birthday my Missus kindly treated me to a new touch screen head unit to replace my current ford 6000cd (doesn't even have an AUX button) mainly so that she can plug her ipod into it.

Anyway, I am obviously a bit worried about my windows getting smashed in and my nice new head unit disappearing quicker than I fitted it.

I have been looking into dummy head unit face plates that basically fit over aftermarket head units to look like a standard cheapy head unit is fitted so thieves won't look twice at it.

This sort of thing:


Now I don't know about you but it looks a bit too dummy and a bit obvious for my liking. Even though potential thieves would be looking at it from a distance from the other side of the window I still think it's a bit obvious, and any knowing thief will know what the stock unit actually looks like and will also know what the readily available on ebay dummy units will look like.

So what I've started to do is create an OEM stock looking dummy faceplate, that once fitted you'd never know there was an expensive head unit underneath.

I was going to use my current stock unit and basically butcher it at the time once I've fitted my new head unit. But Clive kindly donated his faceplate from a faulty 6006cd he had knocking about doing nothing. This saved me butchering my current working unit, leaving the option open to either sell my stock unit on, or should I need to refit it when selling my car to keep my aftermarket unit.

If you are thinking about doing this mod, although it is relatively straight forward, it is rather time consuming with the amount of modification, cutting, trimming and grinding required.

When It arrived in the post. This is what I started off with:

Posted Image
Posted Image

First step of the modification is to strip out the circuit board, keeping the volume knob and screen. This is what you'll be left with:

Posted Image

Next you need to strip out all of the buttons leaving you with this:

Posted Image
Posted Image

Once you've done this, It's now time to get friendly with a dremel or similar cutting tool as you will be using it a lot. Safety glasses on (really, you need them)

You need to trim the excess off of every button. I started by trying to be safe and tape the buttons down on some cardboard:

Posted Image

Then using a cutting disc attachment, begin cutting the buttons:

Posted Image

But as I'm a bloke, I quickly grew tired of this as it was too time consuming to keep taping the buttons down, plus all the plastic dust on the cardboard meant the tape was covered in it and couldn't be reused. So I ended up simply holding the buttons in my fingers, being careful not to cut any parts of me off:

Posted Image

Once I finished trimming every button down, I started trimming down the faceplate itself:

Posted Image

Once finished I'm left with this:

Posted Image
(the edge looks messy in this photo but it's just flaked bits of plastic that brush off)

When I'd finished that, I started grinding away all the plastic moulding on the back of the faceplate that would of held the buttons in place. Basically the back needs to be completely flat so it all needs to go. So I set to work with a flat grinding stone attachment on the dremel that works rather well:

Posted Image

A long going over with the dremel later I was left with this:

Posted Image

Looks messy but all the mouldings on the back for the buttons are now gone and it's completely flat so it should fit over the after market head unit nicely. Once finished I was left with all these trimmed down pieces:

Posted Image

I then flaked off all the loose bits of excess and washed it under the tap to get all the dust off.

With the volume knob, I trimmed it down from this:

Posted Image

To this:

Posted Image

And with it's clear housing I cut it from this:

Posted Image

To this:

Posted Image

I will then glue the knob inside it's housing and then glue the housings tabs to the back to hold it in place.

Now it's time to glue everything in place. This is straight forward and once finished I've got this:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Now to line the back of it, what I did is cut a section off a thin mouse mat, big enough to cover the face of the head unit:

Posted Image

Think this is just temporary cause it looks a bit messy at the moment but it's doing the job of protecting me screen.

Finally and most importantly, In terms of fitting, this is pretty much up to you what you decide is best for you.

In my case, I didn't go for the most visually appealing route, but something I found actually works really well is good old velcro. It's very simple and works a treat so don't knock it if it stops my windows getting smashed.

It's readily available at supermarkets/wilkinson etc and can be found with the sewing stuff.

Firstly I cut two strips off, and stuck them either side of the back of the dummy faceplate:

Posted Image

It's looking messy I admit but it does the job n you won't see it anyway

Next I stuck 2 two strips of velco either side of my head unit fascia adaptor:

Posted Image

I now decided to take the dremel back out and trim a few mm off the edges of the fascia adaptor:

Posted Image

So that when clipped into head unit surround, instead of sitting flush with the surround, it will instead sit a few mm deeper into it:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Once fitted back in the car I'm looking at this with my nice shiny new head unit:

Posted Image

It is now simply a case of placing the dummy face plate over the new head unit and the velcro will hold it on:

Posted Image

Job done

And because I trimmed that few mm off the fascia adaptor, the faceplate won't stick unusually further out of the head unit surround

View from outside of the car that a would be thief would have:

Posted Image

You would never no there was something valuable underneath it and just looks like a crappy standard factory fitted ford head unit that ain't worth a second look.

Guide To Fixing Common Focus Bonnet Lock Problem

Posted Brigante on 13 November 2012 - 11:45 PM in Ford Focus Guides

Ok so this is my first attempt at a guide so if it is deemed not a guide or not detailed enough please feel free to move it to the relevant section or remove it completely.

As you may or may not be aware there is a big design flaw in the design of the Ford Focus bonnet lock mechanism.

If you remove the slam plate:
Posted Image

And this rubber boot:
Posted Image

You will see there is a cable connecting the key barrel:
Posted Image

To this white collet:
Posted Image

The idea is on the right turn of the key, this catch opens:
Posted Image

Like so:
Posted Image

Which releases the bonnet allowing you to lift it open.

Now this is not so much a flaw but actually a tamper proof measure designed in by ford. This lies with the white collet pictured above. Basically the back of this collet is part of a + shaped male and female key, these two parts need to be clicked in together for you to be able to open the bonnet.

The idea is if a would-be thief tries to break into your bonnet, the connection behind the collet will separate rendering the lock mechanism useless and they will not be able to open the bonnet.

However, this is actually flawed as it was generally new technology to ford and it was poorly designed as well as the actual connection being very fragile. Meaning instead of thieves, the actual owners of the car was getting locked out of they're own bonnets, because the slightest knock or bump, sometimes even taking a big speed bump too quick, or as I'll mention shortly changing the grill can dislodge the connection. Then as the owner was none the wiser to this 'security feature', when it came to opening the bonnet with the key, only to find nothing happened, they was truly in the shtuck.

I unfortunately discovered this design flaw first hand when I received some front end damage resulting in needing the bumper replacing, which meant removing the key barrel from the grill.

The 'mechanic' slid the barrel out of the grill and let it hang freely, removed the grill, removed the old bumper, fitted the new bumper, replaced the grill, replaced the barrel and finally closed the bonnet. He then tried to open the bonnet, only to discover that when turning the key left and right, nothing happened and the bonnet was jammed shut tight.

Now I must inform you that the lock mechanism is also very fragile and can easily snap or break, If this is the case then unfortunately you will have to smash your grill in, snap off the lock mechanism and buy a new grill and lock mechanism from ford or ebay and have the barrel built up to your original key by a locksmith, this will end up costing you around a £100.

You can also jack the car up, get on your back under the car and reach up between the radiator and engine block where you will have to go by feel and take a ratchet spanner to the 2 10mm bolts either side of the lock mechanism:

Posted Image

By loosening these 2 bolts you will be able to prise the bonnet up with enough force. I did try this, but unless I just have really big hands, I do not see how anyone can reach up high enough to get to the bolts without getting they’re arm trapped.

However you will most likely find you are in the same situation as I was and the connection had just become loose and not actually broken, in which case it is very easy to fix this yourself when you know how.

I actually joined this forum looking for an answer myself, a quick Google search will throw up loads of results with people in the same situation and some may mention using a long screw driver through the grill, but not in much detail so if you are not doing it right or hard enough you can waste all day with no result and end up thinking the grill needs to be smashed in when it doesn't at all.

The common cause of this problem is actually replacing the grill and not knowing about the problem until it is too late and you are faced with not being able to open your bonnet.

After managing to fix this problem myself with no mechanical experience, a fellow member of this forum fitted a nice new ST grill to his focus found himself in the exact same situation I was in only days before.

He tried the screwdriver trick himself with no avail and thought he would be faced with smashing in his nice new grill quicker than he had actually fitted it.

I managed to guide him through what he had to do so he was able to fix it himself too. So as this is a common problem I am writing this guide for anyone who finds themselves in a similar situation or anyone thinking of swapping they’re grill and doesn't already know about this problem.

Now after a load of waffle, very simply here is how to open your bonnet if you find yourself in this situation.

First off, brute force and position is key here, if you don’t push hard enough it won’t happen, if you have the screwdriver in the wrong position it won’t happen.

First things first If you peer through the grill you will see the black rubber boot which you will need to pull off with some needle nose pliers (you may need a torch for this)

Posted Image

Once this is off you will be able to see the cable and the white collet:
Posted Image

Then what you need to do is thread a long enough screwdriver (about 300mm should do) through the grill directly above the ford swivel badge:
Posted Image

As I just said it is all about position. You need to position the head of your screwdriver on the face of the white collet, directly above where the cable meets the collet like so:
Posted Image

This had immediate results for me as soon as I had the screwdriver in this position and I opened the bonnet within minutes.

However to find this position I worked the screwdriver right the way around the cable with no avail, If you position the screwdriver to the sides or underneath the cable you won’t have much luck:
Posted Image

Posted Image

It needs to be like this:
Posted Image

Once you have the head of the screwdriver in this position, you now need to put all of your bodyweight on the end of the screwdriver and push the white collet back in place, while in turn turning the key left and right as normal.

A tip is to get someone to turn the key left and right for you while you push on the screwdriver. I found it also helps to have whoever is turning the key to push it in in a straight in position while turning the key.

By pushing the white collet in with the screwdriver you are pushing the male and female connection back together and much to your joy the bonnet will suddenly pop. When pushing the screwdriver you should hear a click, this is the connection clicking back together, if you don’t hear the click don’t worry, as long as you maintain the pressure you will get the bonnet open and you can deal with getting the connection to click together after.

I must stress, when you find the correct position of the screwdriver and the right amount of pressure, the bonnet will suddenly pop on the left turn of the key, it is important to not get too overjoyed at this point and stop applying the pressure. If you do, you will lose the connection and you will have to start all over again.

So remember, when the bonnet suddenly pops on the left turn, make sure you quickly turn the key to the right and lift the bonnet before you lose the connection.

By doing this instead of a £100 ebay spend for a new grill and lock kit, all it cost me was 5quid for a long enough screwdriver which is one of the best purchases I've made and now lives in my boot should this problem happen again.

A final and critical tip, If you are planning on swapping your grill, very carefully slide the barrel out of the existing grill, and whatever you do, DO NOT let the barrel hang freely on the cable, this will almost definitely lose the connection causing you to find the bonnet won’t open after closing it.

To avoid this problem in the first place all you have to do is balance the barrel on some sort of object, a can of pop would do for instance, this keeps the cable in position and prevents the weight of the barrel dislodging the connection when hanging.

If you do let the barrel hang however, it still isn't a problem, just make sure the key still does what it is supposed to do before closing the bonnet, if it doesn't, click the connection back together before you do.

If you've closed the bonnet and can't open it, follow the guide.

So there you go, my first guide. I hope it was as informative as it could be and not too boring. If it helps other people who find themselves in the same situation it will have been worth the read.

Guide to fitting an Illuminated Ignition Barrel to a MK2/2.5 Focus

Posted Stoney871 on 01 September 2012 - 01:54 AM in Ford Focus Guides

Attached File  FORD Focus LED Illuminating Ignition.pdf   877.5KB   2031 Number of downloads

Front & rear CCTV install - Focus Mk3

Posted Bungleuk on 15 February 2015 - 09:54 PM in Ford Focus Guides

In the absence of any guide to help me, I made my own!!  Hope someone finds it useful!
1) Buy a CCTV system.  I bought this for £40 from Ebay - it records 720p HD, good enough to see Reg plates on cars, and the night footage is reasonably good

2) Connect up an ignition switched 12v feed.  In the Mk3, the cigar socket is 20 min timed, no good if you want your cctv to cease recording when you remove the key, and start again the second you turn the key.
a)Buy a piggy back mini fuse from Ebay -
 b)Expose fuse box by pulling the two whatsits off the yellow whatsits and pull down carpet ( you can see here I've removed one, the other is till on).
c) Connect your piggyback fuse to fuse No. 85 - That's EIGHT FIVE folks. there was a 7.5A in mine.
 Use the 7.5 in the bottom slot of the piggy, and put a 5A in the top one ( for your CCTV)
d) Get an earth feed from this screw, to the left side of fuse box....

e) Feed both wires up round the back of glove box.  I achieved this with a bit of stiff green garden wires to pull them round.
f) Attach up a cigar light from Maplin or Halfords, or some other car electric place, Ebay also!

N.B. My Halfords only sold a replacement cigar lighter, not a 2 x splitter for accessories which I wanted.
So this guide uses what I found, and later, when I get a proper plastic housed socket I shall replace it and affix it to interior of glove box, shortening and hiding wires as appropriate.
4) Now stick your rear view camera to the back window, and the front facing one to the desired location on the windscreen.
a) Feed the rear wire through to front like this....

pull off plastic facia, feed wire through hole as shown...
pull out rubber bung and use a bit of garden wire to help bring through the wire...
Use garden wire to help feed through the wire down the rubber tube and out the other end, under the headlining.  Pull down headlining gently and pull through the wire as shown...

Plug the bungs back in and now begin to feed wire to front of car like this series of pics shows...

5) Now run the USB power cable from the cigar lighter in the glove box to the main CCTV unit on the windscreen like this, pushing the wire behind seals and headlining as your go...

6) Now tie wrap up the excess cable.
Halford only sell

7) Finished install..

I) Do all this with ignition OFF!!
ii) When running cable for rear camera, run it front front to back, not back to front as my guide shows.  You'll end up with excess cable and nowhere to put it.  If you go front to back, the excess can hide under the rear headlining!
iii) This worked for my car, no guarantees for you.
iv) I take no responsibility for anyone elses lack of skill, stupidity and associated electrical fires!!
Hope someone finds this useful!!
Regards, Jon

Attached thumbnail(s)

  • $_57.jpg
  • IMG_2209.JPG
  • IMG_2210.JPG
  • $(KGrHqZ,!igF!Q7Qd4O7BQP4yRMYzw~~60_12.jpg
  • IMG_2203.JPG
  • IMG_2200.JPG
  • IMG_2183.JPG
  • IMG_2184.JPG
  • IMG_2185.JPG
  • IMG_2186.JPG
  • IMG_2187.JPG
  • IMG_2188.JPG
  • IMG_2189.JPG
  • IMG_2190.JPG
  • IMG_2191.JPG
  • IMG_2193.JPG
  • IMG_2194.JPG
  • IMG_2195.JPG
  • IMG_2196.JPG
  • IMG_2197.JPG
  • IMG_2198.JPG
  • IMG_2199.JPG
  • IMG_2211.JPG

Guide to installing a Ford DAB radio to your MK2 / MK2.5 Ford Focus

Posted Stoney871 on 02 January 2014 - 01:02 AM in Ford Focus Guides

After assisting a Member of the forum with the logistics of purchasing and fitting a DAB aerial kit on his Focus I did a guide for him.
So as to benefit the whole Forum I have posted up this slightly modified Guide for anyone else interested in carrying out the same project.
Download, use and share as you see fit.
Attached File  Fitting a DAB radio to a MK2.5 Focus.pdf   660.67KB   15159 Number of downloads


(08/01/14, Guide modified further to encompass experiences of SatTechUK during Fitting, hopefully all parts of the guide are now correct and fit for purpose)

Guide to swapping a Focus MK2 Radio for a MK2.5 Radio

Posted Stoney871 on 23 February 2013 - 06:11 AM in Ford Focus Guides

Here is a printable PDF guide to fitting a Facelift Focus radio into a MK2.
Please view, use and enjoy.
(edited on 10/05/13 for more clarity and better photos)

Attached File(s)

Tuning Boxes, My Experience And Fitting Them

Posted jdsheff on 06 May 2015 - 02:40 PM in General Ford Guides - Modern Fords

I always come onto this forum asking for advice but never putting any input on this forum and to help others. Now its my turn! Im here to help and give limited advice on my findings regarding tuning boxes with today's technology and how to fit them.

Please bear with me regarding this long post. This is for the haters, the doubters and weather a tuning box is for you.

Picture heavy

Since buying my MK2 Ford Focus TDCI 115BHP (November 2014) it was just a 'ok' drive but wasn't what I wanted. So I was regretting buying this vehicle because it lacked everything in the drivability and performance. Also setting off on the roundabouts, I hated it!
Firstly what was mentioned is to blank the EGR off with a £3 stainless steel plate. Once I did that, my word was the car picking up alot better. I thought the drivability was much better and I didn't dread going into a roundabout without cutting someone up!
This is my daily driver so I wasnt going to start upgrading the hell out of it. A baby on the way and a 20,000 mile annual commute makes me needing to keep this reliable.
Now although the car does have some pull, this still seriously lacked performance. So I looked into remaps, custom remaps and tuning boxes. They all varied from £89-£500.

Iv had all of them during my driving life and varied in quality.
Now I know a remap maybe much better for what I wanted (iv had petrol turbo previously) but I also had a tuning box before. This was on a Volkwagon PD engine.
The car in question was a VW Bora 1.9TDI (115bhp). The tuning box pushed up the bhp to around 135bhp.


Once chipped these go like a rocket BUT it produced a massive smoke screen! My other 'remapped' Magane smoked aswell even tho it went back 3 times for different things regarding the custom map, but still produced smoke with good power gains.
Now roll on 10 years from my first tuning box to todays technology. Full of microchips, processors and other things I not had before.

I started looking into these boxes as I want to remove it if/when warranty work was needed, the fact its a daily family car so I wasn't going to spend the earth on £100 per 10bhp horses.
Loads of places claim this, claim that and too many to choose from. Only 1 stood out from hours and hours of constant reading reviews and people's extensive experience.
The Synergy 2b 2 channel box from tuning diesels. http://www.tuning-di...ergy-ronbox-2b/
Alot of praise seems to go their way regarding what has been achieved and reliability over the years of the production. Also made in Britain is a big plus!
When reading more into it you can infact alter the settings to your satisfaction which is more of interest aswell since you cant do this with a remap.
The other side of things, it also connects to the map sensor to alter boost (4-5psi the most on maximum setting) from the turbo. It does make sense as when the fuel is there, you can infact up the boost to match which creates more performance. More boost without fuel just decreases the power and has a reverse effect. This is the good thing with diesel engines as from a petrol which needs the correct air/fuel ratio. A 1 channel tuning box seems to run out of puff after 3000rpm aswell in my experience.
I had spoken to the owner 'Ron' about all my needs, questions, requirements and he couldn't of been more helpful knowing the knowledge he has. No sales team, no fancy overheads and no advertising to pay for. Just the Chap who created these. You just need to visit the website to notice this lol.
Now he has created a button/switch which plugs directly into the box and can select 3 options. Eco, power or off which are illuminated with different colours to which you have selected. No other wiring is needed and the box creates its little signal/voltage to power this button. You can't do that with a remap either. When time and alittle more money comes my way, il give this a shot.
I ignored all the crap you get with 'danger to fuel pump, danger to injectors' lark. You bring me concrete evidence and il shut up....
Iv had a tuning box before and didnt kill the engine after 113,000 miles before I sold her. That was with a nitrous oxide kit fitted aswell (wizards of Nos) on original clutch, injectors, pump etc aswell. So in my book, what aload of crap from scare mongers!!!





The remap on the megane however made the clutch slip now and again. I couldnt back the power down like I could with one of these boxes. Some other expensive boxes have jumper settings to alter power, this had a proper dial which you would expect from good quality British made device. The other thing is, once iv had enough of the car I can have the box reprogrammed for the next one. What more could I want? Too many pro's than con's regarding this box and its putting my previous remapped cars to shame.

So what the hell, I dived in and bought the box. 3 to chose from but chosen the 2b box. I had a Synergy 1 channel box before. Although these are good and NEVER made my car smoke, im after more performance than economy. So Ron said if I chopped this Synergy 1 box in, he will do me a upgrade for an additional cost.
Bought on a monday, came the Thursday.
Packaging was fine and nice to see Ron using static bags with the delivery.


Outer case is hard aluminium, looks very well made with proper 'oem' connectors which is always a good thing.




Rated ip57 I think for water and dust resistance or something but not too bothered as it's under the bonnet. Iv never heard these boxes put cars into limp mode but other boxes which cost nearly double have which it claims is right for the car. If it was for the right car, it shouldn't do it and is exceeding the tolerances!
Nice to see he's left good length of cabling!


Now I will show you how it was setup on my vehicle.

This could be a useful guide for people who are interested in buying a tuning box but dont know where the plugs actually go.

I take no responsibility for the actions you take on your own vehicle regarding tuning boxes and other forms of performance enhancing equipment!

Firstly ensuring the ignition is off and all doors closed.
Pop the bonnet and remove engine cover.


Iv already located where my box will be sitting, so a good clean with a multi purpose cleaner, dried I then stuck down one part of the velcro ontop of the fuse box which came supplied with the unit.


Other bit was stuck on the tuning box.


I fix the tuning box down first to save the box dangling around the engine bay and knowing the length of cable I have to play with.


Firstly was getting this box plugged into the fuel rail.
Located straight infront of you slightly to the right is a red plug.



Detach this red plug and put it into one end of the tuning box supplied cable. It will only go in one way and should hear a 'click' when its made a connection.


Now with the other end of the tuning box cable, attach this to the fuel rail. In my circumstances this was the blue coloured end. Again when attaching this you should hear a 'click' when the connection is made.


You will notice theres alittle holding clip running along the inseam behind the grill. I pushed the tuning box cable into this which works fantastic to give a untampered look.


Pushed into the clip.



Thats one side done. Took 2 minutes to do that. Obviously with me doing a write up, its taken alittle longer.

Next was the map sensor side of things.
Locate this first.
This is the sensor located on top of the engine block just beside the oil filler cap as pictured.


Theirs alittle clip you push to make the the connection release.


Once off, its good to see the exact same oem connectors are used.


I plugged one end into the original connectors and the tuning box end going into the map sensor itself.


Now Ron includes cable ties but I found these alittle too small to work with and fiddly. So I went to the hardware shop (next door to work) and got bigger ones.
I then followed the cabling going to the rear of the engine and across to the map sensor.

So tied up in 2 places on the fuel rail side of things.



Then tied up 2 places on the map sensor side of things.




Everything looks nice and tidy.


So popped the engine cover back on and looked at the setting on the box.




Im under the assumption the boost pressure is upped alittle on the first half of the settings. Maybe 2-3psi So I went all out and turned the dial to number 10.



Il give this a shot instead of going to number 5 as I wanted all out performance anyways.
So I started her up.
Sound sweet just like before. No engine lights!
I took it out for a spin.... My god what have I done!
This is how the car should of been. This machine really does fly, part throttle feels like full power. No need to put my foot all the way down. So much more responsive. 10,000 miles done and still going strong. I will only use the power when its needed but I will definitely look into getting the switch as I do motorway runs everyday and could benefit from a lower setting while cruising @ 70mph.

So to sum it up.
Would I recommend this unit? Hell yes!
Was it easy to fit? Yes took more time finding a place to seat the box than fit the connections.
Can the box be reprogrammed for next car? Yes
Switchable settings? Yes, even better with a switch on the move
Cheaper than other boxes? Yes
Is it reliable? Yes
Any downsides to this unit? None

Remap or Synergy tuning box? In my situation, tuning box.

Please understand this is my personal experience and my opinion only. Theres a love hate relationship with tuning boxes they still haven't failed me yet. The only time I will get a remap is when I own a petrol turbocharged engine again.

Thanks for reading guys.

Kind regards.

Mk3 Heated front seats the easy and cheap way

Posted madmole on 16 November 2014 - 06:58 PM in Ford Focus Guides


Guide to fitting heated front seats on a Mk3 Ford Focus (2011-2014)
in 40 mins a seat and under £40

No need to remove hog rings or any difficult seat manipulation or trim

All images are thumbnails. Click to enlarge

Step 1: Can I do this easily? Checking if Ford have done the work for you

  • Check the rear fuse panel in the boot. If fuses
    35 and 34 have 15 amp fuses in them then you are good to go (35 = passenger
    heated seat, 34 = drivers heated seat)

  • If no fuses fitted then check to see if wires
    and fuse holders as in sockets 34 and 35. If there are then add fuses (10 amp
    in my kit)



  • Now check the wiring connector plug under a
    front seat

WARNING! Make sure the ignition has been OFF for at least 1 minute at this point to avoid any
issues with airbags. DO NOT turn on the ignition with the plug disconnected


The wiring connector plug is at the outside edge of the front of the
front seats. Unscrew the 6mm bolt that holds it together and pull it apart

Check that the following plug of the outer part has wires going to it


They should be Violet and Violet/black on
passenger and Violet/Black and grey/yellow on drivers (but as usual Ford change
em at will). There should NOT be a matching socket on the other side of this

  • If all these are in place you can go ahead and
    order your Heated seat kit. If not Then I’m afraid you will have to find your
    own ignition controlled 12 feed and an earth and have a lot more work to do



Step 2: Order a suitable heating kit

You can’t just go to Ford and order elements and wiring
harnesses and switches. The heated seats also need to be turned on in the BCU.
Current estimates put all the parts etc. at over £300 without labour. Ford don’t
sell just the heating elements, you have to buy half the seat due to their elements
being glued in with the occupancy sensors. Ouch!

  • Go to ebay and buy a kit. I bought the following
    and it’s a perfect fit almost as if designed for the focus’ seats. Fits them
    fully and without cutting. Low heat is very gentle and high heat is toasty
  • http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4acd6e71f5



  • Wait patiently while it turns up
Step 3: Get your tools ready

6 mm socket (can use fingers to hold it)

T30 Torx head socket and Wrench

Insulation tape

Swiss army knife or 16mm drill/arbour


Somewhere dry and warm to do the seat elements, not too far
from car

Wife away at work

Step 4: Go do it!
  • Make sure engine has been off for at least 1
  • Make a note of where the seat is in relation to
    the centre console if you want it back in the same place again. There is no
    need to adjust the height
  • Undo the 6mm bolt holding the wiring connector
    for the seat together and separate the connector

  • Remove the head restraint. Squeeze the adjuster
    plastic in and pull up. You may need to angle the seat a little to get enough ceiling
  • Slide the seat back, undo the front 2 T30 torx
    screws noting how much effort was required to undo them
  • Undo the T30 down the side of the seat by the B
    pillar base
  • Slide the seat forward and undo the remaining
    T30 bolt. Put the bolts somewhere safe
  • Remove the seat from the car (mine just lifted,
    moved forward and come out sideways
  • Take the seat somewhere warm and dry with soft
    kneeling to work on
  • Extend the back so the seat is as flat as you
    can get it
  • Lay it face down on the floor


  • Remove the 2 elasticated clips that hold the
    back down. They will be slack due to the reclined angle,


  • Fold the flap up out of the way
  • th_IMG_1530.jpg
  • Now release the 2 plastic tabs holding the rear cover
  • th_IMG_1531.jpg
  • Fold the 2 corners back to expose the gap between
    the foam and the cover


  • On the passenger chair there is an occupancy
    sensor sitting in that gap so be careful to put the heating element over it and
    make sure it stays in place. My drivers side didn’t have one. It’s a pressure
    switch so will work fine with the heating element in place
  • Take your kit and separate all the elements



  • Feed one of the elements into the gap between
    the foam and the seat cover. The element needs to go all the way in. It’s a perfect
    fit. I didn’t use the tape


I just stuck my arm in there after taking
all watches/jewellery off. You can slowly push the heating mat it till the end
is flush

  • When the end is flush, insert the wiring through
    the slit and lay the wire along the frame bar to the outside of the seat


  • Fold the flap back over, tuck in the corners and
    re secure the 2 sliders, making sure the wire is tidy inside


  • Turn the seat over and run hands down the seat
    to make sure its all smooth and no ridges or creases have snuck in



  • Now for the back. Crank the recliner to the opposite extreme, so the back is as hard over the seat as possible


  • Release the 4 little hooks and fold back the


  • Add the second heart element into the gap between
    the foam and the liner. You can get your arm right in, get it right up to the
    obstruction at the end and lying flat. Again I didn’t use the tape



  • When it’s all the way seated then place the wire
    in the provided slot


  • Then feed the wire through the cut in the cover that’s
    already there


  • Pull the flap down hard and replace the 4 clips,
    smooth everything out



  • Pull the flap back down and reattach the elastic
    clips, tidy the foam and wiring


  • Turn the chair over, crank the angle to something
    sensible and make sure its all smoothed out and no wrinkles


Now for the switch!
  • I put the switches on the outside trim of the
    chair. It’s very easy to do here and I didn’t seem to have room on the center console
    like others. Also less likely the dog will stand on them here, resulting in a
    very hot seat in summer after a dog walk (A reoccurring landrover issue for me)


  • Take your Swiss army knife and using the tool
    for removing boy scouts from horse’s hooves, make a small pilot hole where you
    want the switch (check nothing under that bit first!)



  • Then take the big blade and open it out carefully
    to 16mm or till you can just get the switch through



  • Carefully press the switch home. Don’t press on
    the button itself or your smash in the rocker switch


  • Place Main wiring loom back onto the heaters and
    switch wiring, cable tie it all neatly into place


  • Run the black and red power wires through the
    seat side of the plug. To were the matching power socket is going to reattach
Start putting back together
  • Take the seat back outside and replace it in the
    car. It has locating dowels so it quickly goes on once correctly
  • Do up the 4 Torx screws o the same tension the
    were at (35KN)
  • Replace the head restraint
  • Run the red and black new wires out through the
    gap in the chair socket till they are the same length as the power cable and
    plug. Cut them there.


  • Bare the ends, (Solder them if you want) and
    press them into the 2 pin holders of the socket identified earlier. The +12v is
    the one furthest from the edge (position 1 in the switch diagram). Use
    insulation tape to tape them in place


This is secure enough for use, but easy enough to break open quickly if needed

  • Replace the connector, and tighten the 6mm screw
  • Start the car, switch on and enjoy the toasty


Hope this helps, feel free to ask any questions


Stephen (madmole)







Retrofit Bluetooth With Voice Control and USB for Focus MK2.5

Posted Gaz RS on 07 January 2014 - 11:52 PM in Ford Focus Guides

This guide was made when I retrofitted bluetooth to my 2009 RS, it should relate to most MK2.5's
Before you start or order any parts check behind the glove box for the module connector and behind the courtesy light for the microphone connector. If you have both of these then the wiring will already be in place

Parts needed.

BVC module 8M5T-19C112-AN, AP, AR, AS, AT etc ebay for the cheapest around £100, The Ford part Finis 1725849, £312.73. 

Module Bracket        Finis 1353218 £8.62
Bracket Screw     Finis 1355147 £1.15
Screw x2       Finis 1231390  £1.10
Audio Patch Cable        Finis 1592580 £9.31
Mic Patch Cable        Finis 1592586 £12.67  Only needed for pre 2010 Focus
Microphone       Finis 1532666 £41.18 or ebay around £10
Control stalk     Finis 1318965 £87.74 or ebay around £20
​USB 2 Female to mini 4 5 pin cable http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5d470ae59b £1.49

First you need to make sure you have your radio code, then as you will be working near the passenger airbag I would recommend you disconnect the battery,

Open the glove box and remove the vent for the air cooler, just give it a pull and it will come off

Posted Image Posted Image 

Remove the seven screws that secure the glove box in place then ease the the glove box out so as not to break any of the small securing clips on the cooler pipe.

Posted Image   

Slide the glove box out carefully as there are wires still connected to the AUX socket and the airbag deactivation switch if you have it fitted, (another reason for disconnecting the battery).

Posted Image   Posted Image 

You can also remove the glove box door to allow more access, remove the damper on the left hand side then give the door careful pull and it will pop out of the spring clips circled

Posted Image   Posted Image 

Once you have the glove box out look on the left hand side for the BVC connector, it's wrapped to the loom with tape. (sorry forgot to take a pic)

Posted Image 

Peel the Gray foam back, if your careful it wont rip and can be reused once the BVC connector and cable are released. Whilst the grey foam is peeled back look for a grey connector it will be wrapped up with the rest of the loom in black electrical tape. This is where the audio patch cable needs to go, simply remove the existing one and replace it with the new one you bought from Ford. You can now wrap the gray foam back around the loom.

Posted Image Posted Image New audio patch cable in

Whilst we are in this area look further down the loom and you will see another connector it has 4 black and 4 red/ white wires this is where the microphone patch cable goes.

Posted Image   

I've found that Focus built after December 2009 have a different wiring loom, there is no empty socket for the microphone patch cable but the modified loom incorporates the wiring for the microphone

Next step is to mount he module onto the bracket using the larger of the three screws

Posted Image 

You can now insert the BVC connector and secure it by moving the white lever to the other end of the connector, you can also put you USB cable in.

Posted Image 

Using the other screws you can now secure the module to the underside of the dash, it's a bit difficult but if you let the fuse box down you can reach up through the gap.
Tighten the back one then swing the module up and put the other screw in.

It might be easier to mount the bracket and them mount the module onto it, I don't know as I followed another guide.

Posted Image 

Position of BVC once fitted

Posted Image 

Secure you USB cable up out of the way of the glove box cavity, depending on where you are going to terminate it you may need another extension cable.

You can now reinstall the glove box and re-secure the fusebox.

To fit the microphone you need to remove the courtesy light and surround, start by getting your nails in between the clear lens and the unit at the back then work your way around the sides to the front and the lens will come off.

Posted Image 

You will now see a metal spring clip, I'm not sure of the correct way to remove this so what I did was to use a small screw driver to pry the back of the clip forward or towards you.

Posted Image 

The light unit will now come down and you will have access to the two screws holding the surround in place, remove these and remove the surround, it will go past the light unit once the connector for the mic has been loosened.

Posted Image 

There will be a round piece of foam in the cavity where the mic goes so remove it first then pop the mic in and connect it up.

Posted Image 

Refit the surround and the light unit making sure you get the metal reinforcing ring in the correct position in the surround.

The radio control stalk is straight forward, just insert a screw driver into the small orifice on the back of the stalk and ease it out being careful as there is a couple of wires attached.

Posted Image   Posted Image 

Swap the wiring to the new stalk and reinsert it, you will here a twang when it's fully in.
That's it reconnect the battery and put your code into the headunit everything should now work apart from Voice Control.
Voice Control

If everything is working except voice control you will need to enable the function. You can do this using a modified elm327 OBDII and ELMConfig

Once you have your elm327 connected to you car and your laptop, set the elm327 to MS-CAN

Start ELMConfig and click Open Port

Click on SRM then Configuration, as a precaution you should read from SRM and save cofiguration then just follow what is on the pic and your voice control should now work Posted Image
Posted Image

How to improve your MPG by at least 5 with an itchy foot!

Posted jeebowhite on 03 December 2013 - 11:13 AM in General Ford Guides - Modern Fords

So, we all know that we have to do all we can to save the planet... And lets be honest, with the ludicrous expense of fuel these days, who couldn't do with stretching their MPG that bit more?


Here's a small tip to save the fuel - itchy toes!


To start off with, if you want to increase MPG with no effort, it can be done. You don't necessarily need to inflate the tyres to the perfect PSI twice daily, remove every nut and bolt from the car to reduce every bit of weight to make it lighter, and you don't need to run only half a tank, or drive like a granny.


The way to look at maximum MPG is not to think "how do I sit constantly at a lesser speed", but instead to ask yourself "how slowly can I lose speed"


All you need is itchy toes!


Every time you reach speed develop itchy toes. Leave the ball of your foot on the pedal and reach your toes up to the top of your shoe and rub your toes on your shoe. This movement will save you a couple of MPG. Now, the distance that you moved your toes up, lift the ball of your foot about the same amount (keep your heel firmly on the floor). You should find that your MPG increases (instant).


Its a technique I have devised over the last year or so, and it does work!


The logic is this... If you sit there trying to force yourself to stay at 70MPH you are constantly blipping your foot up and down on the throttle, as we all know cars don't like to do any more work and so it reduces MPG. However, with Itchy Toes, you can increase your MPG whilst dropping your speed in a barely noticable manner!


So here's my example. Sitting and plodding along at 70MPH on the motorway, if I 'maintain' this speed I might be using say 50% throttle. This is constantly up and down to maintain and gets me about 37MPG holding steady. I develop itchy toes, and scratch it on my shoe. My MPG goes up to about 40MPG, my speed doesnt change, or it changes so little that the needle barely moves. I have just dropped my throttle use from about 50% to about 47% and still maintain speed. So the car is having less fuel demanded of it.


So I move my foot about 1mm off the throttle, my MPG shoots up to 50, and I am still maintaining 70 for about a half mile. I then move my foot a little more, and now, my MPG shoots to 63-67MPG. The car really starts to gain MPG and now over a half mile, I might have lost 1-2mph. so I blip the throttle by 1mm and maintain the speed, until I get to another flat / decent on the motorway, my MPG drops to about 52, and the car maintains. I then drop back by another mm and then get my MPG back to the 60's. I estimate that I am using about 8-12% less of the throttle pedal at this point but can still generally maintain my speed whilst losing it very slowly.


Using this technique after a service, I have managed to get more MPG out of the car. My average fuel use across a tank has gone up by as much as 7mpg. Now, I know that its not conclusive (weather, humidity, air density, back wind etc) all of these will play a part, however I know that the instant MPG on the car is not an actual indicator of what is happening (we all know its a rough calculation) but I use it as a general guide for my efficiency. If I can get it up to the 60's I might not be doing that, but I know my fuel use is less than when I have it maintaining mid 30's.


Give it a try and let me know your success. I know that someone here has recently done this and it worked for them, so give it a go and let me know how well it worked for you.


Don't expect instant results, it takes a lot of practice to have the little movement of your foot, in the first place you will probably drop a few MPH quickly but with practice you will see the improvement :)

Focus: Heater Fan Blower Works Only On Setting 4 And No Aircon

Posted RichardE on 03 December 2013 - 10:35 AM in Ford Focus Guides

[I originally posted this as a reply to an older thread but feel it may be of use as identifying the problem and also one possible solution. Hope it helps]


Ford Focus Mk1: Heater fan blower works only on setting 4 and no aircon


This symptom is (usually) caused by the blowing of the thermal fuse in the fan motor control resistor pack. (The resistive power drop is a really cheap way for Ford to control the current, and hence the speed of the fan).The reason the fan works on setting 4 and not on the other 3 settings is that the full speed setting 4  bypasses the resistors and the thermal fuse.[Those with A/C would also find that the A/C doesn't work at all, as it intentionally only works with fan speed settings 1-3.]


This resistor pack is quite awkward to get at as it is located behind the glove box and some ducting for the heated air. The reason it is there is that Ford use the airflow from the fan to cool the resistor pack (which can get pretty damned hot!). However, with some squirming around on your back, a long shaft Philips screwdriver and so on it can be removed and replaced by a "normal person". [The Focus Haynes manual has a small section detailing the heater blower removal and the location of the resistor pack]


In my case I had the A/C and the fan stop working on settings 1-3 a few years ago. The local garage replaced the resistor pack and everything was good again. A month or so later the new pack failed. Initially it was suspected that it was just a faulty pack so they fitted another free of charge. Again a few weeks later this second replacement failed. (This next bit may seem a bit dodgy!) The mechanic said that he had had this happen before on another customers car and that, in some frustration, they had soldered a wire across the thermal fuse to prevent it happening again and this had fixed their problem. With some concerns I gave him the go-ahead to do this and all seemed well until the winter, when the fan blower failed again. As the thermal fuse had been bypassed it didn't seem that this could still be the same issue but ... yes it was. The resistor pack had got so hot that the solder melted and the bypass wire fell off!!


Clearly we had some other issue  - and this is where the cheapness of Ford's design solution comes into play. In my case what was actually happening was that the fan was running slightly slower than expected particularly on setting 1. Some condensation from the A/C, or just incoming moisture, had slightly corroded the bearing for the fan motor so it wasn't turning as smoothly as it should. (In some cases I have heard of them squealing). As the airflow from the fan is used to cool the resistor pack eventually the pack gets too hot and blows the thermal fuse. This is most likely to happen on setting 1 since this has the least airflow and the highest power drop through the resistor pack. 


I removed the blower unit and cleaned and oiled the bearing, replaced the resistor pack (again) and it's still going well 6 years later.