Fitting a MK2.5 Spoiler.pdf 418.25KB 161 Number of downloads
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Basically you need to buy the light units, the bulbs holders, new gasket seals (http://www.fordparts...17734_c_341.htm), a bit of 2core wire and detachable connecter plugs (http://www.autoelect...t/39/category/7 [9 terminals product code 051305])as the facelift lights are different from the original and try and get hold of a couple of push lock clips.
(same clips as at the top of the original prefacelift lights).
I got the lights/bulb holders/gaskets and push lock clips i needed from http://www.fordpartsuk.com/ (you may need to go to the parts request section of the site for the clips and bulb holders https://www.fordpart...artsrequest.htm) and managed to get the connector plugs from here (http://www.autoelect...t/39/category/7 [9 terminals product code 051305]).
You need to run the 2 core wire between the two sets of lights wiring up the connector plugs with the additional wires, wired in with the corresponding reverse/fog light on each side and tuck the wire behind the plastic just behind the boot carpet, and the wire each plug up the same as i have done so in the wiring diagrams (I applogise for poor quality diagrams I've never attempted to make one before lol)
(This is the type of connector plug that i used)
Insert the push lock clips into the holes at the bottom (these are required as the facelift lights do not have the additional rod/wingnut in the boot to secure the lights into place) and I also applied a new seal around the hole for the wires at this point to prevent water ingression-someone had fitted a massive seal and siliconed it before which actually made it worse hence the reason for all the scratch marks as i had to removed the old silicone before fitting the new seals
Connect the plugs and push the lights into the clips and secure into place with the 2 screws.
The 2 bits hilighted in the picture push into the 2 clips on the car also pictured is the bulb holders (wiring harness) required.
I hope this helps anyone wanting to do this conversion as it is realy simple and great looking modification to make on the prefacelift model as the factory fitted lights aren't that nice. Just wanting to clear up any confusion as Ive looked all over for how to do it myself and theres nothing lol but it definately is possible and if you're not confident with wiring it shouldnt cost more than £20-30 to get an auto electrician to wire them in for you. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to contact me http://www.fordowner...48-dangersford/
Id recommend purchasing a set of Cree w5w 501 reverse lights (http://www.amazon.co...t/dp/B00B4QHG7O)
and also a set of silver vision indicator bulbs to prevent you getting the fried egg effect (http://www.autobulbs...ator-bulbs.html)
I appologise for the wiring diagram quality I've never tried to make one up before lol. Hopefully its of use to you.
Ok so this is my second attempt at a guide and may be useful to anyone who's fitted or thinking of buying an aftermarket head unit that will be appealing to scum bags and thieves alike and result in getting your windows smashed.
For my birthday my Missus kindly treated me to a new touch screen head unit to replace my current ford 6000cd (doesn't even have an AUX button) mainly so that she can plug her ipod into it.
Anyway, I am obviously a bit worried about my windows getting smashed in and my nice new head unit disappearing quicker than I fitted it.
I have been looking into dummy head unit face plates that basically fit over aftermarket head units to look like a standard cheapy head unit is fitted so thieves won't look twice at it.
This sort of thing:
Now I don't know about you but it looks a bit too dummy and a bit obvious for my liking. Even though potential thieves would be looking at it from a distance from the other side of the window I still think it's a bit obvious, and any knowing thief will know what the stock unit actually looks like and will also know what the readily available on ebay dummy units will look like.
So what I've started to do is create an OEM stock looking dummy faceplate, that once fitted you'd never know there was an expensive head unit underneath.
I was going to use my current stock unit and basically butcher it at the time once I've fitted my new head unit. But Clive kindly donated his faceplate from a faulty 6006cd he had knocking about doing nothing. This saved me butchering my current working unit, leaving the option open to either sell my stock unit on, or should I need to refit it when selling my car to keep my aftermarket unit.
If you are thinking about doing this mod, although it is relatively straight forward, it is rather time consuming with the amount of modification, cutting, trimming and grinding required.
When It arrived in the post. This is what I started off with:
First step of the modification is to strip out the circuit board, keeping the volume knob and screen. This is what you'll be left with:
Next you need to strip out all of the buttons leaving you with this:
Once you've done this, It's now time to get friendly with a dremel or similar cutting tool as you will be using it a lot. Safety glasses on (really, you need them)
You need to trim the excess off of every button. I started by trying to be safe and tape the buttons down on some cardboard:
Then using a cutting disc attachment, begin cutting the buttons:
But as I'm a bloke, I quickly grew tired of this as it was too time consuming to keep taping the buttons down, plus all the plastic dust on the cardboard meant the tape was covered in it and couldn't be reused. So I ended up simply holding the buttons in my fingers, being careful not to cut any parts of me off:
Once I finished trimming every button down, I started trimming down the faceplate itself:
Once finished I'm left with this:
(the edge looks messy in this photo but it's just flaked bits of plastic that brush off)
When I'd finished that, I started grinding away all the plastic moulding on the back of the faceplate that would of held the buttons in place. Basically the back needs to be completely flat so it all needs to go. So I set to work with a flat grinding stone attachment on the dremel that works rather well:
A long going over with the dremel later I was left with this:
Looks messy but all the mouldings on the back for the buttons are now gone and it's completely flat so it should fit over the after market head unit nicely. Once finished I was left with all these trimmed down pieces:
I then flaked off all the loose bits of excess and washed it under the tap to get all the dust off.
With the volume knob, I trimmed it down from this:
And with it's clear housing I cut it from this:
I will then glue the knob inside it's housing and then glue the housings tabs to the back to hold it in place.
Now it's time to glue everything in place. This is straight forward and once finished I've got this:
Now to line the back of it, what I did is cut a section off a thin mouse mat, big enough to cover the face of the head unit:
Think this is just temporary cause it looks a bit messy at the moment but it's doing the job of protecting me screen.
Finally and most importantly, In terms of fitting, this is pretty much up to you what you decide is best for you.
In my case, I didn't go for the most visually appealing route, but something I found actually works really well is good old velcro. It's very simple and works a treat so don't knock it if it stops my windows getting smashed.
It's readily available at supermarkets/wilkinson etc and can be found with the sewing stuff.
Firstly I cut two strips off, and stuck them either side of the back of the dummy faceplate:
It's looking messy I admit but it does the job n you won't see it anyway
Next I stuck 2 two strips of velco either side of my head unit fascia adaptor:
I now decided to take the dremel back out and trim a few mm off the edges of the fascia adaptor:
So that when clipped into head unit surround, instead of sitting flush with the surround, it will instead sit a few mm deeper into it:
Once fitted back in the car I'm looking at this with my nice shiny new head unit:
It is now simply a case of placing the dummy face plate over the new head unit and the velcro will hold it on:
And because I trimmed that few mm off the fascia adaptor, the faceplate won't stick unusually further out of the head unit surround
View from outside of the car that a would be thief would have:
You would never no there was something valuable underneath it and just looks like a crappy standard factory fitted ford head unit that ain't worth a second look.
Most of us are driving around with errors on our car, and we don't even realise it. Mainly because the small niggles don't affect our day to day driving. Focus owners are lucky as they have the "Secret Dash Trick" but what if you don't own a Focus? and you don't have a trip computer?
The easiest way for us on the forums to help you, is if you have an "OBD" Scanner - and you may be surprised that they are DIRT cheap!
OBD is the cars "On Board Diagnostics" system. If there is an error with your car sensor, or another error that you are either well aware of (or perhaps not). then OBD might just save you £60 minimum diagnostics fee with a dealer, and perhaps a whole lot more in repairs...
What is OBD?
On Board Diagnostics has been in use for many years, as early as 1996 a lot of cars have it. From 2001 (Petrol) and 2004 (Diesel) the standard of OBDII came in, and all cars after this time will have an OBDII interface that you can use.
Not only can OBD be used to diagnose issues, but it also allows you to monitor the likes of efficiency in your car. there are so many applications available that will read the data in different ways, if you want an app for 0-60 with BHP readouts - Torque Pro.
If you want an app for your economy usage "Efficiency (Free)" can be your new best friend.
Does my car have OBD?
The requirement is that an OBDII connection MUST be accessible to the driver within 2 feet of the driver position.
The usual location is about knee height and on the right or left side of your knee (depending on the LHD or RHD model you own).
Its normally recessed, and running your hand along the dash you will feel it, it may perhaps be hidden under the steering column, behind a panel (look for a removable panel somewhere around the dashboard at knee height) or behind an ashtray.
There also tends to be one on the bulkhead of the engine compartment. Mst likely under a cover, so check your fusebox, and you may see it.
How do I use OBD?
You can buy a universal adapter that will fit any car with an OBD socket. See below links to a couple of types (Bluetooth) and an example USB version.
Look at your smartphones App Store for a program called "Torque" - this comes in a freeware version and a Paid for version.
Torque allows you to scan for and clear down error codes, also clicking the error code can take you to a page where you can see in plain english - what the error means. It allows you to view live data readings and also map out your vehicles data (downloadable to PC).
Two types of Bluetooth Adapters for sale on ebay:
You can buy a USB version that will plug into your laptop. they tend to come with drivers and applications that you can use to interact with your car's data.
I Forgot when writing this that there is the entirely seperate "standalone" code reader. Its a handheld device that will read the code and control it through a handheld unit, prices for these differ, as little as £10.00 and up to a lot more. You can buy these for an average of £25 - £30 for a relatively branded unit.
Which OBD version do I have?
OBDII is the current standard but there have been other releases before. The older your car, the older the OBD support, so vehicles around 1996 will be OBD 1 and later vehicles 1.5 or 2. Always contact the seller if you are unsure if the device you are looking to purchase is compatible with your car.
Generally speaking, if your car is older than 2004, you will probably have an OBDI device, and not an OBDII device. Again, refer to the seller to identify if this is the correct one for you.
Why should I buy into this?
Combination of an OBD adapter, and software to accompany it, most of the time will come in under £15. For that money, you have a way to track your cars readings, and check all the error codes. A simple problem with a sensor could cost you as little as £60 to diagnose with a dealer, and then whatever ludicrous labour fee's are applicable to resolve this issue. If you are handy with a spanner, or know someone who is, your first problem resolution will only cost you £15 plus whatever cost for the part, any problems after that you are self diagnosing for free.
Providing the members of this forum with error codes means that we can provide you with more accurate details, and suggestions to resolve your problems.
Please note that when you buy an adapter of this nature, there ARE limitations.
These adapters and software combinations cannot diagnose some systems, ABS and Airbag for example, but it can clear there error codes.
Will It damage my car?
Budget OBDII readers can only ever read data from the engine, and switch the Engine Management Light off - 99.9% of scanners on the market will not damage your car. Be wary of buying from abroad, as these may be cheaper still, but these are the 0.01% that may damage your car.
What About Apple?
Unfortunately, Apple is an issue for this sort of task. Apple use a hybrid "bluetooth" stack, which although claims to be bluetooth, its not "bluetooth" by the rest of the worlds description, its more "Apple's rewriting of bluetooth". Its generally seen that Bluetooth adapters wont work with Apple, and you may be better off getting a WiFi adapter and connect to this.
For apple compatible devices though (Wi-Fi or bluetooth)
There's this: https://itunes.apple...d591557194?mt=8
that I have heard of. but they do say if you have a bluetooth adapter, to contact support before hand.
Alternatively, suggestion is that https://itunes.apple... a code reader.is a good tool to use, but again, ensure that they confirm it will work, or at least get refund reassurances.
The most expensive I have seen yet (but best reported on) is REV: https://itunes.apple...avy investment.
So that's it - its a cheap, and harmless way to get information from your cars computer. Whether error diagnostics, or to see how much damage you are doing to the environment, or if you just want to brag to your friends about what your current BHP reads at.
So, I hope this inspires you! Many who buy an adapter never look back, I have yet to come across a single individual who has regretted buying one. But remember, buy cheap but don't expect the world, but these cheap adapters could be more than enough to dig you out of a hole. If you want to buy something better, there are more than enough tools out there that you can look to upgrade to. Scanguage is an excellent device and there are a lot of other handheld units that could improve the result.
If you have any questions, look around the forum, or feel free to send me a PM and I will be happy to help. If there is enough interest, I am sure all of us here will be happy to help you if you need to start a thread.
Please remember, the above links are not recommendations, we are not gaining any revenue from advertising them, but I can say that I own two of them and they work fine for me
I thought my gearshift gaiter was looking a bit scabby -
So i bought a Genuine leather gearshift gaiter, i went for the black leather with black stitching, but other colours are available -
Ist i unscrewed the gearknob -
Then the trim lifts from the back with the screwdriver (carefully)-
the gaiter and surround then comes away from the console plate - then the trim has to be seperated from the trim (careful - its delicate) i used pliers and scissors -
Once the remnants of the old gaiter are removed - I lined up the new one -
I then carefully hooked the new gaiter onto the back of the console plate -
The trim then gets fitted onto the bottom -
I used superglue for this - i recommend you take it away from the car, wear gloves, put lots of newspaper down/ mask everything if you use superglue
The plate/ new gaiter and the gearstick gets fitted back on -
- finished! -
Have see a few folks give advice on removing rear light cluster but couldn't find any pictures so thought I would write one. Apologies if I have missed one elsewhere and the dodgy graphics.
I did this to de-tango my indicator bulbs. Front light unit removal is covered elsewhere.
Only tools required are a torx screw driver-to remove the two torx screw on outside of light cluster, crosshead driver-to remove screw holding parcelshelfsupport and a flat blade driver or similar tool to help ease carpet from behind rubber trim. If required a 10mm socket can be used to release the shelf near the seat bracket to make access easier.
Both sides are identical;
1. Open the tailgate and remove the 2 torx screws from the light cluster.
2. Remove the cross head screw holding the parcel shelf support. If required remove the 10mm bolt at the other end of the shelf if you want to have easier access.
3. Pull back the carpet from under the shelf support and out of the rubber sealing trim around the rear door.
4. Inside the boot reach up behind the rear light cluster where you have pulled the carpet back. You should feel a large plastic wingnut, unscrew this. The light cluster will now be loose.
5. Pull the light cluster towards you, it has 2 metal lugs that help to locate it into the body work, you do not need to pull too hard but do pull firmly. As it comes loose remove the wiring by squeezing the wiring connector the whole unit can now be placed on a protective mat to stop it getting scratched.
6. On the rear of the now removed cluster you will see a white plastic fitment that holds the bulbs. There are 2 clips that need to be squeezed as you pull the whole part out of the cluster.
7. Identify the bulb you are changing, I am doing my indicators. Remove and replace the bulb.
8. Re-fitting is basically the reverse of the removal process. Locate 2 small metal lugs into the 2 rubber grommets and torx screws into the white plastic holes.
9. Tighten all screws replace carpetunder the rubber seal and enjoy your new lights.
I believe the 2.0 TDCI Mondeo MK3 uses the same filter as does the 1.8 TDCI focus MK1
You will need:
8mm and 13mm sockets (optional)
Fuel filter - Bosch 0 450 906 508 my old Bosch filter has part number 1 457 434 442 and is slightly different.
A large syringe. I used a 60ml syringe.
This can be done with only a few rags and a syringe or if you wish to have extra room to work you will need an 8mm socket and a 13mm (deep preferably) socket and ratchet.
In my guide I have removed the metal brace for clarity and to show how its done if you so wish to do it this way.
So you will need a new fuel filter, I bought a Bosch filter as they make the original and at less than half the Ford price it's a no brainer. A Bosch filter can be had for around £20 including postage.
I change my fuel filter every 12-18 months, covering approx 20k miles a year.
Lets have a look at the filter: (note the arrows and port sizes)
Next you will need to open the bonnet and look at the rear of the engine on the left hand side, you should see the filter hiding down there.
Remove the 7 nuts/bolts holding the metal brace and remove it completely (5x 13mm head nuts and bolts, 2x 8mm bolts) And you should be left with this
For the next stage it is advisable to cover the alternator with some rags as there will be some spillage and it WILL drop onto the alternator.
The clips holding the fuel pipes onto the filter now need to be released, simply push the 2 locking clips using 2 fingers (no need for any tools - they are very simply to release) and push the clip forward. once its unlocked pull the clip out as far as it will come. Do this for all 3 pipes then pull the pipes off and move them slightly so they are not in the way of the filter coming out, you will have some diesel leaking out now.
Now that the pipes are disconnected, pull the filter upwards, noting that the filter is housed in a metal bracket which slides onto 3 plastic clips.You might find the filter comes out without the metal housing, even better if it does.
You should be left with this: (I have started removing the filter from the metal housing)
Remove the old filter from the bracket and discard of it safely - mind it is full of fuel.
Now have your missus stand holding the filter while you fill/prime it with diesel. Remember to fill it on the inlet port as you don't want any dirt getting to the injectors! Once the filter is full (took about 400ml IIRC) you might see the level drop down again - don't worry about this yet, its just the paper element soaking in the diesel.
Once the filter is full, refit it to the metal bracket and then slide the assembly back into the car making sure it catches all 3 clips - this can be tricky.
Once its back in and secure, you can top up with diesel if required and fit all 3 pipes again - noting that the smaller port goes to the front. the pipes simply slide back on and when fully home just push the clip back in to lock it. Remove your rags from the alternator and clean up any mess.
Refit the metal brace then stand back and look at your shiny new filter:
Now its time to start the car, and if you have followed this guide correctly it WILL start first time and continue running no problem. Leave the car idling for a minute to check for leaks, test drive after this if you so desire.
Stick the tools back in the shed, wash the hands and grab a beer!
Well done you have just changed your fuel filter - should take around 10-15 minutes.
Here is a pic of the old filter part number:
If you are changing the fuel filter on your car, you do so at your own risk. I take no responsibility for any damage caused and you should always fully understand the risks of whats involved before you start.
Hey guys, well with the bad weather rolling on in for the next week+, I figured I'll help you guys out a little with a reformed car survival guide! The first one I wrote was a little basic, and I've been swamped with University and work, as well as cat care but alas, here is an updated guide! This first started off after hearing people on the M6 were stranded for up to 6 hours in their cars, but we all know last winter was a pain for many people, and some people even stranded just a few miles from home. Now I'm no expert, but I have been in the Beavers/Cubs/Scouts for many years, only recently giving it up due to my other commitments, I watch a good deal of YouTube videos on relevant stuff, and most of all? I have watched every episode of Bear Grylls' Man vs. Wild!... Well, maybe don't take too much attention of that last part
The layout of this is first going to be a 'Priorities of Survival' which outlines the mind set you need to be in if you're stuck, as well as what to do if you get yourself into the situation, I recommend reading this if you're not so well up on what you should do, or if you just want to brush up a little on what to do. Secondly, I'm going to be giving you a brief load-out of items to have in the car, as this is going to be important to consider, and lastly how to outfit your car! And no, I don't mean add car eye-lashes to the lights...
Now, this is the most important part of this entire post;
DO NOT TRAVEL UNLESS IT IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY!
Seriously, you're only risking your own safety and that of others by being unecesserily travelling, if you need groceries then use local shops rather than travelling to Tesco or wherever. If you have no choice, stick to main roads that you know are well used and most likely gritted. If HGV's use the road a lot, then that's a fair bet, and keep off roads with weight/size restrictions as if HGV's can't use them, neither can gritting vehicles.
Remember to increase your distance between the vehicle in front, drive slowly (who cares if Mr. BMW wants to fly around? He can wait, you need to consider your safety, not his time schedule!), and make sure ALL WINDOWS ARE CLEAR OF SNOW AND ICE! Let's face it, there's nothing worse than seeing someone with a letterbox to look through! Also, make sure all lights are in good working order and all levels are topped up, and that your screen-wash is topped up with good quality non-diluted solution.
Priorities of Survival
Well now on to the meat of this topic! I feel this best here because no matter what, if you cannot prepare yourself most of this still applies! Perhaps you're already stuck and are wondering what to do? Or you're already out and can't get to somewhere to buy preparations, or let's face it, perhaps you're on a tight budget and need to travel.
Your main priorities are going to be in this order; communication, warmth, water and food.
Communication first? Yes, that's right, communication. Communication, communication, communication! If you can't communicate, how does anyone know you're stuck? Help isn't going to magically appear, and quite possibly the rest of this guide won't be needed if you have it!
Now in all honesty, there is no need for you to not be prepared in this fashion no matter your budget, a packet of cereal bars costs what, £1? We're not talking Kellogg's here, we're talking about food of any kind, and they're handy to have, and a bottle of non-sparkling water from ASDA is about 30 pence (even less if you do it yourself and fill up from the tap!), and let's face it, you're a spoon if you go out without a coat in winter! So, now for a little more detail;
Communication - your mobile phone is your most important piece of equipment you have. With this you can call for help, call relatives to let them know where you are (the more people who know where you are the better) and also be able to get information, for example if you came across an accident, do you have first aid training? If not, emergency services can talk you through very basic procedures, which is always a plus. Now I have a Samsung Galaxy S3, it's a very good phone, does pretty much everything except make a cup of tea, and I would never ever rely on it. Battery's on smartphones are terrible so I have also a backup old Nokia phone (3310 I believe, the indestructible one) with a spare battery just in case. Now if you have no way of getting a second then on your smartphone, you need to turn 3g to 2g if you can, turn off internet, wifi, gps, auto sync, bluetooth, and your screen to minimal darkness; and make sure all applications are shut down and that you have a plain black background as your screen doesn't have to use any light to display blacks.
Warmth - this is essential. You need a way to keep warm, and like I said before go with the idea your car is going to be unusable for anything but a shelter. Blankets are the easiest way of keeping warm, with layers of clothing, 2 thin layers are better than a single layer, for example shirt, gilet, fleece, coat. However if limited on space, try and get a 3 in 1 coat, with a detachable fleece, as these are great, they have an extra pocket of air between layers. You could also go with a survival bag, but these aren't essential if you have a blanket and some layers. If you feel yourself getting too cold, you should exercise. Yes that's right, exercise - nothing beats star jumps in snow conditions. I wouldn't recommend push-ups or lunges as you'd end up being in the snow with your hands. Also wet clothing is worse than nothing at all. Chances are you're maybe at most a couple of degrees above freezing, if you're wet and that cold, you possibly have 2 hours left before your body temperature is so low, you'll have a lot more to worry about than being stuck!
Water - you need to be having plenty. You can get dehydrated in the cold, not just on a warm day, so you need water bottles and such. I don't really say have flasks of warm water, as you're never going to be able to keep it warm all day (unless you're willing to pay for a good flask); though if you want to have a flask of hot water or a hot drink, be my guest, if you can do that all the better. My favourite water bottles are metal, they conduct heat well and are sturdy. You may also want to think about military canteens, but there's no need to go all out unless you want too. Always make the most of the weather, if it's snowing or raining, you have water - but do not eat snow whatever you do, you can give yourself burns (frostbite) or hyperthermia, whilst lowering your body temperature. Water again if you're diabetic for example is vital, as I'm sure it is for other dietry requirements.
Food - you don't need lots of food. Go for something high in nutrients, but easy to keep in the car such as a box of cereal bars - don't bring things like pot noodles, how do you cook them? Don't think you'll rely on your vehicle for anything other than shelter, this way you are best prepared. Sweets are good for the sugar and a little boost too. Morale is always a good thing to have high, so some nice tasting sweets are always a little bonus. If you are diabetic, or have other dietary needs, the need for being prepared is all the more serious. You need to more than double your food supplies, with sweets and high sugar sweets; I'm not saying you'll need them and I'd hope you wouldn't, but when you consider 2 boxes of cereal bars and a packet of sugar tablets take up a small amount of room, it's a no brainer.
And importantly, keep calm. People will be trying to get to you and will not abandon you, you just need to keep calm and keep put - do not go wandering off! If you leave your vehicle then potentially you cannot be found and will require more resources in order to b found, resources that may not exist! And in bad weather conditions a shelter is your first priority in any situation.
Items to Consider
Here I'm going to run through a brief list of things you may want to consider packing in to your car if you have the option. Tesco and ASDA have good 'car-care' isles (unsure about others but I'd imagine they will have) which are worth checking down, as a good few items I've picked up are from these!
1 important reminder before we go into the list though, if something goes in to your car preparation gear, it cannot be used for anything else, you remove and use it, you've lost it for when you may need it! You may forget to replace it or put it back, it's just not worth it. Anything you do use, take note of it and replace as soon as possible.
So, without further delay here we go;
- Food and water; you need the ability to get water from surroundings whether rain water for example, and food is obvious.
- Blanket; all about keeping warm, fleece is good, but ideally you need a heavy blanket if room in your boot permits, if not then layers are important.
- Clothing; spare clothes are handy but not required, but you may want to consider a coat with a fleece liner, or a 3 in 1. A fleece gilet is always good too, for in case you need to dig your car out of snow, make sure it's tight fit, a loose gilet is ineffective. Gloves and a hat are important, I have a pair of hunting gloves that are waterproof and thermal, very very handy and cost £10. A reflective jacket is handy so that other people can see you, also if you break down it's handy as well. I personally keep walking boots, socks, waterproof outdoor pants and clip-on ice boots (sort of a rubber mesh with studs in) as not to be too sissy, I don't want my clothes getting ruined by snow and salt, as well as the fact that wet denim can lead to hypothermia very quickly.
- First aid kit; quite self explanatory, quite handy to have. Every car legally should have one in my eyes, as it helps in so many situations not only for yourself but for others, if you can help others then they can help you. Remember if you're just sat there, you're not part of the solution, you're either part of the problem or just useless. Most buy in store first aid kits will suffice for a car, but if you want to take it a little further, then on YouTube look up, "Level 1 First Aid Kit by Nutnfancy. I have a kit similar to his level 2 kit, which may also be worth looking in to.
- Medicines; if you have any medicines that you need, it may be handy having a 2 day supply in the car. Pain killers, anti-diarrhoea tablets and antacids are always handy too. Also, keep a spare packet of cigarettes if you smoke!
- A multi-tool or knife; this is a very controversial bit here, not everyone likes knives or believes in having them, but I do. Knives are possibly the most handy tool ever invented. I personally have a Gerber Suspension multi-tool in my car which is a good knife. Leatherman knives are a little better, however my Leatherman is in my outdoor pack. I also have a small multi-tool in my first aid kit (another Bear Grylls branded Gerber, but they're cheap at my local outdoor supplier). Other options are Swiss Army style knives, which can even be picked up for under £5, I personally have a Victorinox Rescue Tool attached to my door which is an amazing piece of kit. You may want a fixed blade knife too, with a sheathe and such, but this MUST be in your boot, and secured in the boot. Don't get a folding knife, you're not going to carry it so there is no need, and they lack some of the great features of a fixed blade, and stability.
- Cordage; I have 100 feet of para-cord personally, it has a 350lbs limit (depending on the cord) and is great stuff, it's possibilities are limitless seriously. If you're not well up on knots, get a small book or leaflet. YouTube has a mass of great videos on knots.
- Torches; I carry 3 torches in my car, 1 big one (a HID torch actually, works amazingly), a smaller CREE chip torch, and a pocket torch. Don't bother with button torches, unless it's an extra in a pack or something. Can be used for signalling (my CREE torch has an SOS feature on it) as well as finding where to go! LED Lenser T7 is an excellent torch, but is £28 from eBay.
- Ice-busting kit; Nothing beats having some de-icer and a scratter in your boot, it really helps with ice-busting really, nothing sucks more than having to wait for ice to melt, and looking like a prat with your windows covered in ice driving around.
- Entertainment; Let's face it, it sucks to have to stay put. You need something to keep yourself entertained, I always have my University bag with me, so I have a few magazines and maybe a book, but I keep one of my Wildlife Encyclopaedia's in my car, and a British Wildlife Encyclopaedia's and pocket books. You keep what you want in there, just don't rely on electricity! I also keep a few book lights in my car.
- Batteries; Always keep batteries, and make sure they're Lithium and not alkaline, alkaline are junk as they discharge and corrode quite quickly.
- A shovel; this could be handy if you need to dig yourself out of some snow, or even mud.
- An air pump; handy if you need to let down tyres for extra traction and pump them back up really. A manual one is best, don't rely on your car's power, you might need it for heat.
- Tow rope; chances are, not everyone with a 4x4 has these in their car, you may not even get a 4x4 to come get you out, a passing Volvo or Audi with tow bar can help you most likely, and they probably won't have tow ropes. Don't assume someone else might have equipment, you're responsible for yourself!
- Carpet/snow ramps; basically you're going to be stuck because you have no traction most likely, so old carpeting or snow ramps can really come into their own, or sacking. Just something to put down to give you grip really.
Got any more suggestions? Please add them to comments!
Organising your boot - just a short one here, but you can't have everything flying around in the boot, so some handy ideas are boot tidy's. Either the ones you can strap in against the back seats, or the ones that Velcro against the sides of the boot (I have 2, from ALDI which are fantastic). I also have a hiking pack in my boot, but don't if you need the room, this takes up room and is generally useless as you shouldn't leave your car, I just keep this in my car because I keep a lot of stuff in the boot). So it's about how you want to go about it. If you just want a First Aid kit, food, a water bottle and a blanket, then a small day pack may be fine on it's own, or even just a toiletry bag with the blanket and food in a bag of some sort (always keep your First Aid kit handy and organised!).
Not too much here as a lot is common sense so really just a quick check list, followed by a couple of recommendations from me!
- Make sure all fluid levels are topped up
- Make sure you have plenty of fuel
- Make sure tyre pressures are at recommended levels
- Make sure all lights are in full working order
Now, you can if you wish use winter tyres, personally if we all had the money we should all have them, but alas not everyone has £300 to just throw away on tyres that are usable for a few months a year generally. They're not good on ice, but help in snow and cold conditions, meaning more traction in snow and heavy rain.
Snow socks are also a pretty good idea if you have the money, they seem to be usable and work well. Chains really aren't needed in this country, they're expensive and 99% of people will never use them.
A tool kit may be handy also, I personally have a hex set that clip in to screwdrivers, and seeing my EDC is a Leatherman TTi, they fit into that as well. I have torx bits, hex bits, phillips bits, straight blade bits, socket set from 5mm - 16mm, so pretty much all you need really. The hex bits were £7 off eBay.
Well folks, that's 3 hours of my evening spent! So let me know what you think really, discuss, suggest ideas, share stories and so on! Remember, in the ideal world you'd have all this, but lets face it we have size and weight constraints, and money constraints too! Just keep what you feel you'll need, I've tried to give an overview really.
I hope this wasn't too difficult to read! I have tried to make it as reader-friendly as possible.
Thank you for your time reading this, and if you have any suggestions then post away!
As you may or may not be aware there is a big design flaw in the design of the Ford Focus bonnet lock mechanism.
If you remove the slam plate:
And this rubber boot:
You will see there is a cable connecting the key barrel:
To this white collet:
The idea is on the right turn of the key, this catch opens:
Which releases the bonnet allowing you to lift it open.
Now this is not so much a flaw but actually a tamper proof measure designed in by ford. This lies with the white collet pictured above. Basically the back of this collet is part of a + shaped male and female key, these two parts need to be clicked in together for you to be able to open the bonnet.
The idea is if a would-be thief tries to break into your bonnet, the connection behind the collet will separate rendering the lock mechanism useless and they will not be able to open the bonnet.
However, this is actually flawed as it was generally new technology to ford and it was poorly designed as well as the actual connection being very fragile. Meaning instead of thieves, the actual owners of the car was getting locked out of they're own bonnets, because the slightest knock or bump, sometimes even taking a big speed bump too quick, or as I'll mention shortly changing the grill can dislodge the connection. Then as the owner was none the wiser to this 'security feature', when it came to opening the bonnet with the key, only to find nothing happened, they was truly in the shtuck.
I unfortunately discovered this design flaw first hand when I received some front end damage resulting in needing the bumper replacing, which meant removing the key barrel from the grill.
The 'mechanic' slid the barrel out of the grill and let it hang freely, removed the grill, removed the old bumper, fitted the new bumper, replaced the grill, replaced the barrel and finally closed the bonnet. He then tried to open the bonnet, only to discover that when turning the key left and right, nothing happened and the bonnet was jammed shut tight.
Now I must inform you that the lock mechanism is also very fragile and can easily snap or break, If this is the case then unfortunately you will have to smash your grill in, snap off the lock mechanism and buy a new grill and lock mechanism from ford or ebay and have the barrel built up to your original key by a locksmith, this will end up costing you around a £100.
You can also jack the car up, get on your back under the car and reach up between the radiator and engine block where you will have to go by feel and take a ratchet spanner to the 2 10mm bolts either side of the lock mechanism:
By loosening these 2 bolts you will be able to prise the bonnet up with enough force. I did try this, but unless I just have really big hands, I do not see how anyone can reach up high enough to get to the bolts without getting they’re arm trapped.
However you will most likely find you are in the same situation as I was and the connection had just become loose and not actually broken, in which case it is very easy to fix this yourself when you know how.
I actually joined this forum looking for an answer myself, a quick Google search will throw up loads of results with people in the same situation and some may mention using a long screw driver through the grill, but not in much detail so if you are not doing it right or hard enough you can waste all day with no result and end up thinking the grill needs to be smashed in when it doesn't at all.
The common cause of this problem is actually replacing the grill and not knowing about the problem until it is too late and you are faced with not being able to open your bonnet.
After managing to fix this problem myself with no mechanical experience, a fellow member of this forum fitted a nice new ST grill to his focus found himself in the exact same situation I was in only days before.
He tried the screwdriver trick himself with no avail and thought he would be faced with smashing in his nice new grill quicker than he had actually fitted it.
I managed to guide him through what he had to do so he was able to fix it himself too. So as this is a common problem I am writing this guide for anyone who finds themselves in a similar situation or anyone thinking of swapping they’re grill and doesn't already know about this problem.
Now after a load of waffle, very simply here is how to open your bonnet if you find yourself in this situation.
First off, brute force and position is key here, if you don’t push hard enough it won’t happen, if you have the screwdriver in the wrong position it won’t happen.
First things first If you peer through the grill you will see the black rubber boot which you will need to pull off with some needle nose pliers (you may need a torch for this)
Once this is off you will be able to see the cable and the white collet:
Then what you need to do is thread a long enough screwdriver (about 300mm should do) through the grill directly above the ford swivel badge:
As I just said it is all about position. You need to position the head of your screwdriver on the face of the white collet, directly above where the cable meets the collet like so:
This had immediate results for me as soon as I had the screwdriver in this position and I opened the bonnet within minutes.
However to find this position I worked the screwdriver right the way around the cable with no avail, If you position the screwdriver to the sides or underneath the cable you won’t have much luck:
It needs to be like this:
Once you have the head of the screwdriver in this position, you now need to put all of your bodyweight on the end of the screwdriver and push the white collet back in place, while in turn turning the key left and right as normal.
A tip is to get someone to turn the key left and right for you while you push on the screwdriver. I found it also helps to have whoever is turning the key to push it in in a straight in position while turning the key.
By pushing the white collet in with the screwdriver you are pushing the male and female connection back together and much to your joy the bonnet will suddenly pop. When pushing the screwdriver you should hear a click, this is the connection clicking back together, if you don’t hear the click don’t worry, as long as you maintain the pressure you will get the bonnet open and you can deal with getting the connection to click together after.
I must stress, when you find the correct position of the screwdriver and the right amount of pressure, the bonnet will suddenly pop on the left turn of the key, it is important to not get too overjoyed at this point and stop applying the pressure. If you do, you will lose the connection and you will have to start all over again.
So remember, when the bonnet suddenly pops on the left turn, make sure you quickly turn the key to the right and lift the bonnet before you lose the connection.
By doing this instead of a £100 ebay spend for a new grill and lock kit, all it cost me was 5quid for a long enough screwdriver which is one of the best purchases I've made and now lives in my boot should this problem happen again.
A final and critical tip, If you are planning on swapping your grill, very carefully slide the barrel out of the existing grill, and whatever you do, DO NOT let the barrel hang freely on the cable, this will almost definitely lose the connection causing you to find the bonnet won’t open after closing it.
To avoid this problem in the first place all you have to do is balance the barrel on some sort of object, a can of pop would do for instance, this keeps the cable in position and prevents the weight of the barrel dislodging the connection when hanging.
If you do let the barrel hang however, it still isn't a problem, just make sure the key still does what it is supposed to do before closing the bonnet, if it doesn't, click the connection back together before you do.
If you've closed the bonnet and can't open it, follow the guide.
So there you go, my first guide. I hope it was as informative as it could be and not too boring. If it helps other people who find themselves in the same situation it will have been worth the read.
125bhp Technical data and link to buying handset
http://www.mybluefin...oftware/bluefin installation . zip
The install is really easy.
1. Plug the Bluefin handset into your OBD port
2. follow the easy instructions on the Bluefin screen. It will ask you to turn your ignition on (DON'T start the car) and follow a set of instructions. It will save your cars original map onto the handset which takes about 10 minutes. once done turn off ignition, remove handset.
3. Install the Bluefin software from Superchips on your PC/laptop (Mac isn't compatible)
4. Plug the Bluefin handset into your PC with the USB cable provided. wait for the drivers to be installed. Run the Bluefin software and enter your personal details (internet connection required)
5. Connect to there server and upload the handset.
6. Wait for your map to be sent to you via email.
7. Connect handset to PC and run the Bluefin software. Click connect and wait for the map to load to the handset
8. Now out to the car an plug into the OBD port again. Turn ignition on (don't start)
9. Follow the on screen instructions.
Your car will start getting a bit unsettled at this point and display some interesting errors. Just ignore them and carry on.
10. Once its all installed you'll get this message
Keep following the remaining instructions then your done.
I 100% recommend if fitting an EGR Blanking plate; that you fit a stainless steel one,
Alluminum plates break through over time with terrible results.
Stainless steel blanking plates are top job a fit and forget item.
Here is a reliable supplier of stainless steel laser cut egr blanking plates.
.Thanks for viewing my Guide and I hope it has helped to achieve satisfactory results.
I have created many Guides all available here on fordownersclub.com all created in my spare time,
in recent times my image host for the guides has began to charge for hosting the images that display within my guides.
So im now paying a monthly subscription in order for these guides to function,
If you would like to help keep the guides full of images,
Donations under £1.00 welcome via PayPal
13/32 Socket (only if engine cover fitted)
T30 Torx screw driver
T20 Torx screw driver
Time to fit : 02:15 from start to finish, perhaps quicker if you were not stopping to take pictures or search for the required tools since you guys now have a list lol
The next step is extremly difficult if you don't know how,
But its very simple once you know how; and you will know how to
After you watch this short video from dodge, all wiper arms remove the same way and this dodge wiper removal video video explains it best.
Clips removal using flat screwdriver to slide from panel.
Lift the panel free from place and store in a safe place until returning to the car.
Next step is to remove the panel beneath
also remove the brake fluid resivour from this panel and ensure to place it in an upright position in the engine bay until returning to the panel.
Store all screws in a cup and place it somewhere safe until returning to the car.
When screws are removed from the panel;
Lift upwards on the front and gently pull backwards to release from the clips that grip it at the rear:
Store in a safe place until replacing on the car
Now all of these panels are removed, you can gain comfortable access to the rear of the engine,
Your next question may be "where is the EGR Valve located?"
Here are 3 images taken from the front engine bay and leading you to the rear right side of the 1.6TDCi / 1.6HDi engine where the EGR valve joins to the block.
This round headed barcoded electonic valve is THE EGR!!
This cylinder in the image below is the egr valve cooler,
Helps to cool the exhaust gases that are being sent to the valve for re-entry to the combustion chamber.
Now to fit the EGR blanking plate;
You first need to loosten the nut on the EGR Cooler tank
Followed by loosening the two extreemly long EGR Valve bolts.
Once the nut on the "EGR Cooler"
The 2 bolts on the "EGR Valve" have been made loose you can gently pull the EGR Valve from the engine block,
This is a case of trial pulling
Followed by further loosening of the nut/bolts until you have enough space to slide in the plate.
See in the image below this text:
The gap beginning to appear when gently pulling on the EGR valve after loosening
Their is a gasket seal on between the engine block and egr valve flange,
I kept the gasket on the engine block side; when inserting the blanking plate,
So the gasket now seals the engine block to the egr blanking plate,
This is best for a good seal.
Now to slide in the blanking plate from the right side of the engine
In to the left.
Just hook on to the top bolt
Let the blanking plate swing down; it will hook in to the lower bolt itself.
Just push firmly to the left to ensure it is centre in the valve,
Also ensure the gasket seal is between the engine block and the blanking plate.
Prior to tightening the 2 bolts on the EGR valve back up
Followed by the nut on the egr cooler.
Here is the blanking plate fitted:
Now to replace the panels
Ensure the seals are free from dirt
Also check the top panel under the windscreen,
It has a C shaped end that fits the bottom of the windscreen in to the panel for a tight seal.
All back togeather
You will notice boost comes a lot quicker and increased torque lower down in the rev range,
Exhaust noise is a little louder (just a little)
Engine idle is quieter
Exhaust smoke doesn't exist
Your induction system now takes in clean air only
No carbon in your induction
Less engine oil contamination
All of the above are from my personal experience since fitting,
Other things such as increased MPG have yet to be saw but I'll keep you all updated.
Great surprise with the reduced lag in 1st and 2nd Gear though.
Well worth every penny and more!
By far the best modification on the car to date.
Ford Focus ST MK 2 (2005-2011) Buyer’s Guide
By James Mosley – www.fordownersclub.com
Ford Focus ST MK2 Buyers Guide.pdf 633.55KB 170 Number of downloads
Launched in late 2005, the MK2 Focus ST was Ford’s first attempt at a hot version of the MK2 Focus. Ford clearly decided to go down a totally different route to the understated (and to some people slightly underpowered) MK1 ST170 and gave the car a far more daring look than any MK2 that had come before it. Available from launch with its signature ‘Electric Orange’ paintwork and with a 2.5 litre turbocharged 5 cylinder engine sourced from Volvo, this new ST was certainly not as understated as its predecessor. In fact, Jeremy Clarkson even went as far as naming it the Focus ‘ASBO’ in his review on Top Gear, a name that has stuck with it ever since. With 222bhp and 236 Ib-ft of torque on tap, the MK2 ST certainly brought the MK2 Focus chassis to life and then some.
Although these days the MK2 ST lives slightly in the shadow of its bigger, meaner brother the MK2 RS, the ST has developed a fantastic following and has thrived off the publicity from it. The ST has a very similar engine to the RS and is in fact a very similar car overall. The fact that it is easily tuneable too means that many owners see it as an easy way to owning a cut price RS.
Models and Trim Levels
From launch, the MK2 Focus ST was available in 3 different trim levels from the factory as well as having a number of options available. The trim levels offered were marketed simply as the ST, ST2 and ST3. All models came equipped with 18” ST alloy wheels, front Recaro sports seats, ST body kit, front fog lights, air conditioning, unique ST boot spoiler and a twin exit exhaust system. The ST also had a 15mm lower ride height than a standard Focus with 30 percent stiffer springs.
This model is actually a fairly rare find as most owners opted to purchase the ST2 or ST3 when new. To to be honest, when buying second hand you are probably better off doing the same, as the price difference between the ST and ST2 is very minimal. There are also plenty to choose from so you can afford to be fussy!
The ST is easily identified from its higher spec counterparts by its lack of Xenon headlights (and therefore headlight washers).
No Headlight Washer
The ST also came equipped with Ford’s standard single disc CD player and fabric Recaro sports seats with colour coded side bolsters. ESP was not included on this model as standard until sometime in 2008, although some have it as an optional extra.
The Focus ST2 is a very easy to find and popular specification level for the MK2 Focus ST. It has all the same features as the ST but adds several more including:
· Ford ‘Quickclear’ heated front windscreen
· Xenon Lights with washers and auto levelling
· Single Disc Sony branded CD player with MP3 compatibility, aux input in the glove box and 2 extra speakers
The Focus ST3 offered the highest standard spec from the factory and included all the ST2 features plus:
· Full leather Recaro interior with heated front seats
· Sculpted Recaro leather rear bench (ST3 is 4 seat only all other versions seat 5)
· Sony branded in dash 6 disc CD Player (MP3 compatible 2007 onwards)
Cloth Recaros In ST/ST2
Leather Recaros In ST3
The Focus ST500 is a limited edition (500 cars) model that Ford sold as a final farewell to the pre facelift MK2. Only available from late 2007 to early 2008, the ST500 was based on the Focus ST3 but added some unique features:
· Red leather heated Recaro sports seats and matching sculpted rear bench.
· Only available in Panther Black paint.
· Sports appearance pack (silver bonnet, side, roof and boot stripes)
· Unique ST500 badging and ‘Limited Edition 1/500’ plaque
· Auto lights/wipers and auto dimming rear view mirror (visibility pack)
· Solar reflect windscreen
A Focus ST500
ST500 Unique Plaque
Red Leather Recaro Seats
As Ford updated and face lifted the regular Focus in 2008, this of course meant that the Focus ST would be updated too. The changes brought about a completely restyled front end for this ST with new headlights, front bumper and wings. The alloys looked similar but were slightly re-designed, as were the wing badges. The rear also changed fairly dramatically with a new rear bumper and diffuser to house the twin tailpipes. There were also interior changes too with a few extra toys. The dash was now clad in carbon fibre (the plastic version unfortunately), and all ST’s now came equipped with keyless start and a ‘Ford Power’ button. The clocks/dials were also redesigned with a larger trip computer display and more functions. Lots more optional extras were also made available too, keeping the ST up there with the best hot hatches in terms of equipment levels.
Even today there are many Focus ST fans out there that still prefer the look of the pre facelift due to the fact that the front end stands out more over the regular Focus. However, the facelift has become the most desirable these days due to its extra toys, fresher looks and slightly more modern feeling interior.
On top of the standard equipment packs, various options were offered over the years including:
· Bluetooth with voice control (Later including USB in centre armrest)
· DVD based sat nav (later with reverse camera)
· Heated cloth seats on ST/ST2 (rare option)
· Sculpted rear cloth seats on ST/ST2 (rare early option)
· Ford Privacy Glass (tinted rear windows)
· Rear colour coded parking sensors
· Power inverter with 240v socket in rear
· SD card based sat nav
· Dual zone digital climate control
· Electric sunroof
· Space saver spare wheel with jack, wrench and raised boot floor (reduces boot space over standard repair kit)
· Global closing on windows (includes rear electric windows on 5 door)
· DAB Sony radio (later models)
· Keyless entry
· Visibility pack (auto lights, wipers and dimming rear view mirror)
· Solar reflect windscreen
· Do not believe the ads that say an ST has cruise control. Ford never offered cruise control as an option on the ST, it was only offered on the regular Focus.
2010 Model Year Changes
If you are looking at a later example of a MK2 ST, Ford made some key changes in 2010 to the line-up. The base model ST was discontinued leaving only the ST2 and ST3 available. Panther Black wheels now became available as standard (silver was still an option) and both the ST2 and ST3 now had the added benefits of having the Visibility Pack, Global Closing and DDS (Deflation Detection System). The ST3 from 2010 also came as standard with Sony DAB Radio, Keyless Entry, Dual Zone Digital Climate Control and Privacy Glass making for a thoroughly high spec vehicle!
At launch, the MK2 Focus ST was available in Electric Orange, Performance Blue, Diamond White, Colorado Red, Sea Grey, Panther Black, Moondust Silver. Added to the range through the years were Frozen White (replaced Diamond White) and Ice White (Pearlescent).
What to Watch Out For
Overall, the MK2 ST is a fairly solid car and had proved to be quite reliable. However, now that it has been on the road for a few years, several common faults have come to light and are worth keeping an eye out for, particularly when purchasing a MK2 ST. With plenty of good, used examples to choose from, you should be able to find yourself a tidy fault-free car.
· Ensure that the side skirts are firmly attached as they have been known to come lose from the body, although this is not a difficult fix.
· The alternator has been known to fail, particularly on earlier cars. Check to make sure you have no flickering headlights and no battery warning light on the dash.
· The oil filter housing diaphragm has been a common fault on the ST. Symptoms include a high pitch noise whilst the engine is running that stops when you pull out the dipstick. This can cost up to a few hundred pounds to fix. Although Ford never officially acknowledged the problem, a revised version was fitted to cars from some point in 2008 (around the time of the facelift) and the later versions seem to be more reliable.
· Seat bases can crack. Check the front Recaro seats for excessive creaking.
· Clutches and drive shafts are a known weakness on these cars, particularly on tuned exampled. Check for clutch slip by planting your foot in 6th gear from low rpm. If the revs go up quickly with little or no acceleration then it’s slipping. If you decide to fit an uprated example from the RS (recommended) then budget around £1000 to have it fitted including the dual mass flywheel.
· Boost solenoids are a common failure and can mean that the car will be down on power. Check the car’s boost gauge. A standard car should hold boost to almost exactly half way on the gauge (0.6 bar) and a mapped car should hold around three quarters (0.9 bar) or more. If it fluctuates too much then the solenoid could be at fault.
· ST’s are known to sometime suffer from MAP and MAF sensor faults.
· A few ST’s have been known to crack their liners so watch out for this. The facelift block has supposedly been revised slightly but some have still been known to suffer from this.
While not a major problem on the ST MK2 due to it being a fairly recent car, there do seem to be some design faults from Ford that seem to have caused a few spots to be prone to rusting on the MK2 ST (and the MK2 Focus in general).
Rear Arches – When looking at a MK2 ST, be sure to check the rear arches on both sides where the bumper meets the arch. There seems to have been a few cases of bumpers not aligning quite correctly and chaffing on the rear arches. Over time this can slowly wear through the paint until bare metal is exposed and rust starts to form. Ford only recently released a ‘fix’ for this issue by adding small clear pads between the bumper and the rear arch on affected cars.
Boot Stops – Take a look on the sides of the boot lid itself where the lid meets the rubber stops on each side. These areas can also rub against the stops, causing the paint to wear through and rust to form. On later cars Ford again added a patch to each side of a clear transparent tape. The purpose of this is to stop any wear taking place. It is still worth keeping an eye on it even if the car has these fitted though.
Above the Boot Seal – Also worth checking is above the rubber boot seal where the rear washer tubing comes through. The rubber from the washer tubing chafes against the paintwork and again can eventually wear through causing rust. Ford never officially acknowledged that this was an issue, although mysteriously 2010 onwards cars seemed to appear with clear protective ‘patches’ over the affected area.If your MK2 Focus ST has any of these rust/paintwork issues then be sure to check out your service book. The MK2 Focus ST has an eight year anti-corrosion guarantee from Ford that will cover these defects. However the warranty only remains in place if you have your paint check (in the service book) stamped every two years by your Ford dealer. Not all cars have had this kept up so it is also worth checking for this alongside the usual service stamps when buying one.
Protective Patch Installed Above the Boot Seal
The MK2 Focus ST has immense tuning potential thanks to its turbo charged engine sourced from Volvo. Many cars will have been modified in some way by now so don’t necessarily let this put you off when buying one, as modified ones are normally well looked after, pampered and cherished by their careful owners. Even examples that are not modified may have had modifications at some point in time as it is quite common for owners to remove running parts and sell them on when they get rid of the vehicle.
Remapping is one of the most common and simple modifications that ST owners perform. A simple map can add anywhere in the region of 25-50bhp and a whole heap of torque to go with it. It is a great way of unlocking the potential of that lovely five cylinder engine. There are various companies out there offering performance maps for the ST and even do-it-yourself handsets with pre-loaded maps are available. It is recommended to stick to well-known names with tried and tested maps. As long as you stick to this rule then you should not have an issue. Due to the increase torque that comes with remapping it is worth bearing in mind that mapped cars do tend to kill the standard ST clutch faster so it may be worth budgeting for an RS clutch at some point in the future. Some cars slip as soon as they are mapped and others seem to go on for years with no issues. It really depends on how the car is driven by both yourself and the previous owner but it does seem to be a bit of a lottery. All that is really known for definite is that the increased torque of a mapped car WILL wear the clutch out faster than a standard car.
Exhaust Systems are also a very popular modification and are an essential part of the package if looking to go for a full stage 3 or above tune. The exhaust system comes in three main sections; the turbo down pipe, the catalytic convertor and the ‘cat-back’ system. The larger turbo down pipe and sports cat or de-cat (illegal so use at your own risk) are essential for a stage 2/3 or above car. The cat-back systems are mainly for a nicer noise and better looks with their nice shiny tips. A similar sound can be had for a significantly cheaper price by performing a ‘de-res’ mod on the standard exhaust. This involves removing the second silencer and replacing it with a straight bit of pipe in a similar way to aftermarket exhaust systems.
Another vital part of a complete package is an uprated intercooler. Whilst the ST already comes with a proper front mount intercooler, it is not that big. A larger version is required when going for a stage 2 or above tune, and helps on all cars in warmer summer temperatures.
An Uprated Intercooler Next to the Stock Item
Induction kits and replacement panel filters are popular and readily available too. The standard air box on the car is actually known for being pretty good and can handle up to around 300bhp with a simple panel filter replacement. An induction kit can provide a great soundtrack and is necessary to go beyond 300bhp.
Suspension mods can include lowering springs (Eibach actually make a popular Ford approved kit that many cars have fitted) and full systems with shocks etc. Big brake kits are also popular with up to massive 8-pot callipers available for the MK2!
A full stage 3/3+ ST is capable of hitting figures around the 300 – 320bhp mark with the standard block and turbo. Beyond this there are plenty of options available but a new or hybrid turbo will be required along with a minimum of the block mod or and RS block with stronger internals. With many other mods along the way STs have been known to hit beyond 400 and even 500bhp so there is plenty of potential there if modification is something you’re interested in. Be warned though, it is an expensive and slippery slope and the idea of doing one or two small mods can soon turn into doing a lot more.
Mountune Performance are Fords official tuning partner and are worth bearing in mind when looking at the MK2 ST. They offer two standard packages for the MK2 ST, the MP260 (260ps) and MR290 (290ps). The MP260 is fairly common to find on used STs and includes a remap, uprated intercooler and a K&N panel filter. EVO magazine actually did a test and drag raced a stock RS against an MP260 ST with the ST coming out on top all the way to over 130mph from standing, largely due to its reduced weight and increased torque figures. The MR290 goes one step further and add revised mapping as well as a full exhaust system and inlet plenum. Both upgrades are expensive when compared to other tuners but the MP260 has the added benefit of being Ford approved and is also very cheap to insure (modification wise). Mountune maps are also known for being some of the smoothest and most driveable in the business so if you see a car for sale with one of these kits on it then it’s well worth checking out.
Fuel is the biggest cost when running a MK2 Focus ST thanks to its lovely five cylinder turbocharged engine so don’t believe the official figures. You are likely to average between 22 and 24 mpg in normal driving although it is possible to achieve low 30s on a sensible motorway run. The figures can easily drop into the low teens if you give the car some stick though so be warned!
The MK2 ST JUST escaped the scary side of road tax brackets with 224g/km of CO2 placing it in band K. At the time of writing (2013) it costs £280 per year.
Servicing is fairly reasonable on the MK2 ST. A service is required every year or 12500 miles (whichever comes sooner). Expect to pay around £200 for an interim service or £350 for a full service at a main dealer or less at a specialist. Ford recommend the timing belt is changed at 10 years of 125000 miles although most specialists would recommend this is done much sooner.
Front tyres typically last around 10000 miles with the rears lasting considerably longer. The ST has 18” wheels so expect to pay between £90 and £150 per corner for something reasonable. Don’t skimp out on the tyres either. After all, these are what is going to put down all that power through the front wheels and bring you to a stop safely!
Insurance wise the ST is in group 17 of 20 or 34 of 40. Insurance costs aren’t terrible for this type of car. Check comparison sites if your car is a standard one and also check with specialists such as our Club Insurance, particularly if the ST is modified.
Included as attachments to this guide are PDF copies of the Ford Manual for the MK2 Focus in facelift and pre facelift form. Please feel free to download and use as you wish.
Most importantly, if you need any more information then please ask on our forums at www.fordownersclub.com where you can put your questions to other real Ford owners.
Activating Single door unlock on your ford
Whilst car is locked
Press and hold both lock and unlock buttons together, until indicators flash.
This will mean now that when you press the unlock key the drivers door only will unlock,
press it a second time and all doors unlock, great safety feature,
press lock once and all doors including boot lock as normal
press lock twice within 30seconds and dead lock mode is activated meaning doors cant be unlocked from inside the car, if window is broken or a person is inside front or rear the doors wont open, unless the unlock button is pressed
Thanks For Looking!
Please Check my List of Guides Listed Below For More Information.
I know a few people including myself have been asking about how to remove the front radiator grill of the MK7 fiesta, so when i got my asian spec grill i decided to make one hope it helps everyone
First thing first this is a really easy job, took me no longer than 15 minutes and i didn't need any tools, just my hands and a bit of careful persuasion.
If possible get the car to a comfortable working height, i had access to a ramp but it really isn't needed, this grill is only held in by clips so no hidden screws to worry about
Best technique i found was start in a corner, i chose bottom left (no real reason for that) then with hand pressed firmly on the bumper and one hand holding the grill give it a short sharp tug, there will be a bit of resistance but if there is to much don't try and force it out cause you may end up breaking something, just move on to a different part of the grill
Once you have one side of the grill out start working your way to the other end pulling the top and bottom alternately all the time keeping one hand on the bumper as you pull the grill, as a little tip try and keep the grill parallel to the bumper as this stops you stressing the clips and makes it easier to remove. By the time you get to the other end it should just pull out nice and easy, once again don't try and force it if it seems stuck, just move on to a different section of the grill.
Once the grill is removed your left with a toothless looking fiesta lol, reinstalling the grill is pretty simple whether your just putting the old one back in or like me putting in the Asian spec unit.
One thing i would say about the reinstallation is there are little locating points all around the grill ( if you look at the picture above you can seem them pretty clearly) make sure when you put the grill back in you slide the lip of the grill under these locating points or you'll have a very messy grill fitment.
Once its all in the car should look good as new in my opinion with the Asian grill better than new
Hope this guides helps, any question please to hesitate to post on this guide and answer as best i can
As most of you know, the mk7 dash has a hidden storage area under the radio. I have no idea why Ford decided not to use it, but it's not too difficult to make use of.
I have seen some people fit a latching catch here, but the problem I see with this idea is that it is difficult to fit and as the door has to be pushed in to unlatch, so when the door is closed it always looks slightly open.
My alternative idea is a lot easier to fit.
All you need are some self adhesive magnetic pads - the type which have an A & B pad are best as they are designed to lock together accurately such as these: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item53ddbf903e
Firstly you need to remove the door panel. This can be done by inserting a plastic trim tool into the gap and levering to release the clip.
To stop the door permanently closing, simply remove the metal clip from the dash or cut the plastic pin off the door.
This makes a great hiding place for iPods or portable sat navs.
There's very little on the web about changing a fog lamp, and the handbook just tells you to consult your dealer. My fog lamp was damaged after hitting a stone at speed, I know this has happened to other fellow members of the forum, and will likely affect others in time to come. I changed mine today, here's how:
Purchase links & Info:
I purchased a fog lamp housing from Amazon.co.uk you can get these parts through Ford, however I've heard quotes of £70-£110+ to have it replaced. This one is £23 and although it's not the official Ford part, it is matching OEM quality. (please note the link is drivers side only)
I then purchased a 55w H11 bulb from Autobulbsdirect.co.uk I went for the cheapest to match my other fog lamp.
All in after postage & packaging it came to £40, and two days later they turned up:
Tools you'll need:
You will need:
A flat head screwdriver
A T25 Torx, preferably with a 1/4" socket ratchet
A Torch (helpful, not necessary)
Step #1: Removing headlamp to access fog lamp
Firstly remove the main headlamp unit, there's a comprehensive guide here for those who aren't familiar.
Close up of the fog:
Step #2: Removing fog lamp housing from mount
The fog lamp housing is held to a mount with 2 Torx screws, and 2 locating pins.
The screws are on the top left and bottom right as you look down on it. It's a bit of a fiddle getting them loose.
The bulb just twists and pulls out of the housing.
Once the screws and bulb are out the housing will just pull out.
If you need to change the bulb there is a small clip on the side to take the bulb from it's holder.
Fog lamp mount: (fog housing removed)
Step #3: Replacing everything
Replace the new fog housing, fitting the bulb first.
Use the locating pins to line up the two torx screws, and tighten.
Quick test, then replace your headlamp and job done.
If you have any questions, just ask, I know the guide doesn't go into great detail but hopefully this guide will help someone, sometime.
Welcome to the FAQ, hopefully your problem has been identified somewhere below with some basic tips to identify the problem and how to resolve it. For a quick find press the CTRL + F Keys on your keyboard, and type the keyword (for example, Battery, MPG, Error) this should hopefully allow you to find your error by searching through the post. If not, have a read through:
Disclaimer: The below is a guide only, and is not intended to guarantee a fix to your vehicle, this is to help you identify where your issue may lie, in order to attain more professional support. It is the personal opinion of its authors and does not represent a guarantee or the views of the forum ownership. Please proceed to use this advice as nothing more than
suggestive guidance. The forum, management, moderator team or any other affiliates will not be held responsible for any damage caused by the misuse or unsafe practices that you may operate whilst trying to diagnose your vehicle. Nor do we accept any damage to persons or property caused by this advice.
All issues on a car can be covered under four main categories...
- Electrical Faults (this includes interference)
- Mechanical Faults (faulty moving components)
- Component Failure (this includes the degradation of seals, brackets mounts, some switches etc)
- Sensor Faults.
Most Common Faults:
Ford Focus MK1 / MK 1.5 Faulty Instrument cluster, NEW: Now being seen on MK2's also!,
- Randomly the instrument cluster will drop out of service, it will often fail without reason, and may return immediately or after the car is switched off and then on. You may be suffering from a known fault that had a recall previously, Ford would likely need to replace the instrument cluster, however they may not do it free of charge, or they may do it on a good will gesture at a discounted rate.
My Speedo drops to 0 randomly, then comes back.
This is normally (on the MK1 and 1.5 Focus, and some other earlier than 2004) an issue with the Vehicle Speed Sensor. If your car does not have ABS, then you will likely have a Vehicle Speed Sensor on the gearbox. This becomes faulty and then results in you losing your speed reading. If you have ABS, it could be an indication that either your short looms to the sensors
Noises / Rattles - Start by trying to identify the location of the noise. Is it inside, or outside the car?
have a friend stand near the car as your driving it around (for example in a car park) to see if they can identify where the noise is.
If the noise is inside the car, start by checking the basics, remove loose articles including coins, or any other clutter from in the car. Take the car for a drive and see if the empty cabin removes the noise. Also remove all articles from the boot to try and identify if this is the location of the noise. You may find that the noise is in the dashboard, as a loose wire, so take your time to try and identify the noise, but its best to have a passenger focusing on the noise finding to ensure that you do not take your attention away from the road.
Whistles - Whistles most commonly are caused by a damaged hose or pipe. This normally is due to an air intake hose having a small hairline crack, often in the bend of a hose. As the air pressure builds, the air escapes through this fine crack and makes a whistling noise. Look at all the hoses that you can get to and remove the offending hose, replace it with a silicone based hose, as opposed to a rubber one, as these are much more durable than the rubber hoses.
If you have an intermittent issue on a car, no rhyme and reason to its occurrence, you may have an electrical fault. First thing to do is look for the earth points on a car.
Start by checking the earth point under the bonnet nearest the battery. Check if its clean, ensure that all electrical contacts can make a clean and uninterrupted connection to the chassis of the vehicle.
Find the main fuse box, one is in the engine bay, the others reside in the passenger foot well, and behind a panel in the boot (vehicle dependent). Check all wiring / harnesses are secured in place onto the fuseboards, ensure all the latches are
firmly in place. If you are unsure, and feel comfortable to do so, Disconnect the battery before proceeding. Allow 30 minutes to pass to allow all electrical charge to dissipate disconnect any harnesses, and re-seat them securely, and ensuring there locking clips are fully fastened.
Switch not working: When you operate a switch (indicator, switch light, press button) go through the operational checklist below:
- Does any position of this switch work?
(if its the windscreen wiper, does the rear operate, do the windscreen washers operate correctly, does the main beam flash work etc) - If any of the remaining switches work fine it is likely a fuse has blown, locate the appropriate fuse and check for damage to the fuse wire. Replace as necessary. Otherwise you may have a fault in the switch, and this may need to be replaced.
- No other parts of the switch work?
Its possible that the issue lies with one or more fuses, check all fuses to ensure that they are not damaged in any way. If not, check all electrical items work and note if any do not work. It may be that the wiring connector has come loose from that switch, or it may be a relay / harnass issue. Follow the advice above to reset the harness.
- Can you hear a click from the fuse board when you set a switch position?
If so then the issue may be isolated to just that part, the click indicates that the signal is getting to the cars control systems, and
the issue may be related to a faulty motor, electrical connection or a faulty relay. Investigate accordingly by swapping a relay for a working one to see if this resolves the issue, or investigate the wiring at the end where the suspected faulty appliance resides.
Car wont start
Check that when you insert the key and turn to position III (electrics only) do you see any lights flash up on the car?
-If you see a flashing red light,
this indicates you may have an issue with the immobilizer or the key. If you have a spare key, try and do the same with this spare key.
- If you attempt to start the car and it wont turn over,
if you hear a lot of clicking from the fuse box, and the lights flickering, this indicates your vehicle battery may be depleted. Jump start your car with a power pack (DO NOT JUMP START OFF ANOTHER VEHICLE, THIS MAY DAMAGE YOUR SMART CHARGE SYSTEM!) or call an appropriate recovery agency to assist.
- Car struggling to start,
if the car is struggling to start, then it could be an issue with the fuel not getting to the engine efficiently. It could also be that the engine is unable to breathe, check the air filter and make sure its not clogged up. Check the service history and identify if these have been done recently. Another symptom of a fuel filter change required is the car cutting out randomly. This can include the car cutting out on motorways under heavy acceleration above a certain number of revs.
- Car speedo sweeps up then down on trying to start the car.
This tends to indicate that the battery is getting low, or is nearing the end of its serviceable life. You would probably want to look for a replacement SILVER CALCIUM battery. Do not be fooled by any agents wanting to sell either silver, or calcium, it must be both! I personally can recommend the Bosch S4.
- Disruption of service,
This includes Interruption of
Radio signal (This can be due to the replacement of filament bulbs with CREE bulbs, as they can generate electrical interference),
GPS signal (This can be due to RF interference, it could be generated by electrical interference of additional electrical components, replacing of in cabin bulbs with LED bulbs, and also the additional installation of other wiring - For
example, foot well lighting, ignition barrel, where wiring is run from the map lights).
- Unidentified errors -
This includes conflicting warning signs and errors appearing on the car. This can be due to the installation or use of OBDII code readers, or a short circuit within the OBDII port. If you have an OBDII code reader of any form, disconnect the hardware from the car. This includes also OBDII based tuning boxes, Ford IDS clones, F-Super etc.
If you do not have any of this hardware, just check to ensure there is nothing of an obstruction in the port.
Otherwise, the conflicting issues would indicate an electrical short circuit somewhere. This can include the wiring harness in the engine bay (average of around £500 cost for a medium sized Ford and above for larger). The short circuit could occur anywhere from the engine bay, to the tail gate. An Auto Electrician would be best to review the wiring to identify any issues.
- Battery Warning Light
A flashing battery warning light, or a periodic light then extinguish, may indicate that the battery is not being charged correctly. this can indicate that the battery has a faulty cell, is low on ionised water, or is the wrong type of battery for your vehicle. Always ensure that you have a Silver Calcium battery in your car, as this is required to work with the ford Smart Charge system. If you have a standard lead based battery, you would need to replace the battery with an appropriate type. Swap the battery in the meantime if you have access to another to identify if the fault is battery based, or alternator based.
Permanent lit battery light, would indicate that the issue is a faulty alternator, and the battery is unable to be charged. This could be due to a worn, or faulty axillary belt which is not allowing the alternator to work correctly.
The Ford Smart Charge system outputs from the alternator anywhere between 13 and 15 volts. Normally 14.4 is an expected value at the point of output. When the car is switched off, a multimeter, or another form of reading the cars voltage should be between 11 and 12 (less than this could indicate a faulty battery) when the engine is running, you should expect the 13 - 15 volts.
The Battery and alternator should be considered in the event that the car misbehaves / loses efficiency / performance when a high usage of electrical equipment is present.
Mechanical Failure -
Mechanical failure is the failing of any moving parts. This includes everything from CV joints, to turbo failures, Engine belt pulleys to EGR valves. This is often (along with electrical failure) the only failure that would be covered by any warranties.
Failure of CV joints -
This can often be noticed as a knocking noise whilst driving the car, specifically when turning. Check the CV joints to ensure there is no oil leaks, or damage to the joints itself.
Bushings - Bushings can often be identified by a knocking noise when you are driving over bumps, kerbs, or speed bumps. Check that when you
Turbo - Turbo failure can often be identified by a blowout of oil around the turbo unit, and into the air filter, this can indicate a failing or failed turbo. If you remove the air intake hose and can move the impeller rather vegerously, then your turbo may be close to failing.
Gearbox - Gearbox Oil is one of the primary culprits, and can be the cheapest fix to a lot of gearbox issues.
Clutch - Clutch can be identified as an issue by the over revving of the car and the under acceleration - this is often accompanied by a poor bite (clutch pedal nearly all the way up before you see any bite).
Component failure is the degradation of non-mechanical parts, such as
Poor engine seals (for example, failure of the injector seals may be identified by a fuel smell in the cabin)
Blue Smoke could indicate an exhausted head gasket,,
Worn engine or gearbox mounts (vibration at speed)
Rusted exhaust clips (rattling from under the car),
Worn seals may also allow water ingress into the engine bay (water in Spark Plugs issue).
- Fuel Filter (more likely diesel owners)
Diesel fuel can become waxy and clog the fuel filter. This can also include a damaged fuel filter housing.
- Diesel Particulate Filter
This is the dreaded filter, it is for Euro IV compliant vehicles and above (Fords between 2004 and present day). DPF's can cause the MPG to drop, and can cause the car to go into limp home mode when they are in trouble. If you own a diesel and rarely
drive on motorways, find yourself a fast dual carriageway, or a motorway and drive your car (as one member said) "like you stole it" - keep the revs high (aim for 4000 revs) and drive this way for 20 - 30 minutes. this completes a "Passive regeneration" borderline "Forced regeneration". This will get the exhaust gasses hot enough to assist the removal of the carbon from the DPF and should help to clear it, and stop you ending up in limp home mode.
PLEASE NOTE: 1st generation DPF filters require replacement at 6 years / 75,000 mile service. If you are looking to buy a vehicle of this sort of age / mileage - check that this has been done. Also note that the EOLYS Additive fluid is based on a
3 year topup, or every 30,000 miles. This can cost around £150 - £200 at the dealers to get everything input and reset. This is only really applicable to Fords before 2009 / newest shape models. You may also want to consider a DPF removal service, this costs around £359 - £450 on average and is a way to remove and remap the DPF out of the system, preventing limp home mode, and expensive topups of EOLYS fluid.
Boot Switch Failure / Boot randomly opening
If you find that your boot switch does not open the boot all the time, or the boot randomly pops open, then start by removing the rubber cover from the boot lid handle (flat blade screwdriver at the edge of the rubber cover and pull the handle outwards to force a down and back action against the cover). Check that there is no water in there causing a fault in the connection. If there is no water then you may need to replace the switch. See the guide here (courtesy of Lippo) although for CMAX the practice is in essence the same).
Bonnet wont open with the key
If you find that you cannot open the bonnet reliably, then follow this guide courtesy of Brigante.
My heater is only blowing cold air?
Does the fault occur on all four of the heat settings? if so then it may be a heater matrix issue, or it may be a failed resisitor issue. If your handy with a soldering iron, start with the resistor, they cost less than a pound, and the hardest part is the soldering. If your not, then you may wish to consult a garage.
Sensor faults can be difficult to locate, and can happen as a now and then error, or a continuous fault. Sensor faults can nomally only be detected by the presence of a code reader, either an OBDII code scanner, F Super, ELM327 ford IDS (clone, or genuine) or the dashboard trick. Please click here. Also click here to interpret the results
Common sensor failures:
Vehicle Speed Sensor
- This is the sensor that tells the car what speed the wheels are turning at and what speed your car is doing. The instrument cluster may have erratic speed reporting, and you may notice that the Automatic Volume Leveling of your standard Ford Audio kit is erratic and drops the volume / increases it noticeably even when you are travelling at motorway speeds. these can coincide with the instrument cluster speed dropping out.
Gearbox reverse - This is more of a switch than a sensor, but if you note that your reverse lights are not coming on when the reverse gear is engaged, and all fuses and wiring appears to be correct, then its likely this switch that needs replacing. This tends to be on the gearbox towards the middle of the engine bay and can be replaced by unscrewing the old and !Removed! in the new. You will need deep sockets for this job.
Mass Air Flow Sensor / Idle Control - These can include symptoms of high idling, slow rev come down speeds when in
neutral or with clutch disengaged. These can be cleaned, or may need to be replaced.
Why is my MPG so bad?
If you have an issue with your MPG being lower than you would expect then the best thing to do is to ensure that your tyre pressures are all at the recommended pressure and remove any unnecessary weight from the vehicle. If this has already been done then start by disconnecting your battery for between 30 and 60 minutes. If after driving for a tank of fuel you find that you still have no real improvement, then give your car a basic service. Also have a look here for a guide I have put together. This teaches you how "itchy toes" can save you fuel!
Air Filter Replacement
You can buy these from euro-car-parts for about £10 and is a 15 minute swap. general figures are 2 - 3 MPG improvement, personally I have seen up to 10 MPG improvement, but this is mostly down to how dirty the old filter was.
Oil / Oil filter replacement - You can get a "kwik oil" service at Kwik Fit for around £40 - £45 from Kwik Fit (http://www.kwik-fit....ice-pricing.asp) if you don't want to do this yourself.
The lubrication and effort required for the engine to operate can be improved, and this can offer an MPG gain.
Fuel Filter - although its a bit fiddly, allowing the fuel to flow freely will also improve the MPG.
These cost around £30 from euro car parts, and its advisable to have a small amount of fuel in a cup and pour this into the filter before fitment, this will allow you to reduce the problems in priming, not doing this can make the car difficult to start, if not unable to start altogether.
The above would normally boost your MPG rather significantly if your car is "under serviced", if your car is well serviced and still has a problem then you would need to look more into clogged injectors and an inefficiency of burning the fuel as well as injecting it to the engine block. You would want to look at injector cleaners, fuel system cleaners etc. A can of BG244K is a good place to
start. This can be picked up from around £20 from ebay or Kwik Fit.
Stop 'n' Go failure
The Econetic range of vehicles includes the idle stop and go functionality. The functionality will only operate when the battery is above a certain charge, or if the ambient temperature is warm enough. If either, or both of these conditions are not met, then the system will not operate. If your car has been in for a routine service, you may find that Ford have applied an update to the instrument cluster, or ECU which may have disabled the functionality. Check with your dealer as to what was done,
and if needs be, request they reactivate the feature.
Why do I have unpleasant smells in the cabin?
The smells would often be related to problems with bacteria in the air circulation system. Purchase a can of one shot air con deodorizer from Euro Car Parts (Prices between £3 and £7 (for two). Set it off in the car, close all doors and windows and set the fans to go full whack with the engine running. Leave for around 15 minutes to allow it to go through the system and kill bacteria.
Consider also replacing your pollen filter, as this can be a bacteria breeding ground.
If your smelling fuel in the cabin, then check the injector seals, and have a cylinder leak test completed. These tend to show if there is any fault in the seals, then the fuel / oil vapours can leak when under high pressure, and escape into the engine bay. As the air intake for the cabin is under the windscreen and taking in from scoops which are most of the time underneath the bonnet, then these fumes are sucked into the car and circulated to you and your passengers.
Should I fork out and buy "super fuel"?
The simple answer is not really. If you are running a non 'sports car' you will find that your MPG is barely affected, and you wont really feel any power under your right foot. If you have a super tuned car, you might see a small benefit, but for the 'average Joe' around the forum, its highly unlikely you will see a benefit worthy of the extra notes you hand over in exchange.
Should I use "branded" fuel as opposed to "Supermarket" fuel?
If you want to. Many people (myself included) swear by the likes of Shell Fuel save. I get a better MPG tank after tank, than I do with comparable driving on any supermarket fuel. It is said that supermarket fuel is topped up with additional chemicals and cleaners that do not allow it to ignite as efficiently as branded fuels. Some argue that it all comes out of the same hole in the ground, but we all know that every company will take a raw product and do whatever they want to it, for the better or for the worse. Some people swear by supermarket fuel, others swear at it (I know a few folks who have sworn that it has ruined there car!).
If you have a branded fuel station close enough to you (in comparison with a supermarket) it is my personal opinion that you should spend the extra £1 per tank, and get a better turnout in MPG. Give it a try and see how you feel after a few months!
Does my car have a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF)
best bet is to check Ford Etis here... pop your registration in and see what the engine is, if its Euro 4 complaint, it probably has a DPF that requires maintenance (EOLYS fluid every 3 years, DPF replacement every 6 years),
If it is Euro 5 then you probably have one also.
As a general rule of thumb, 1.6 Diesel and 2.0 Diesel Focus from 2004 - 2009 have a DPF fitted, which uses the EOLYS fluid
(system to clean the DPF).
The good thing is its good to the environment,
The bad thing is it costs £150 every three years to top up the fluid,
The ugly... It costs the best part of £1000 to have the DPF replaced every 6 years...
The 1.8 Diesel Focus from the aforementioned years, generally does not have a DPF.
From 2009 onwards, I believe most Diesel vehicles have a cDPF, which is self managing and clearing, and does not require the EOLYS Fluid, or replacement. Please bear in mind that you might find yourself buying a car that was built before then but registered after and therefore may have a normal DPF.
I believe diesel Mondeo's up until around 2007 had a standard DPF and above then a maintenance free.
I believe this was the same for the Fiesta, however I recommend visiting ford etis (link at the top of this paragraph) and see what it says.
If you are still unsure, contact your local dealer, and provide them VIN or Registration and they will confirm for you if you do, or do not have a DPF. Alternatively, contact Fords customer service team via email, they tend to respond within a week, but are very good to deal with, and they confirmed that my car does not have a DPF (oh how I dance around the room!!!)
My Car is driving but has no power and wont exceed 40MPH?
Your car is protecting itself, and is currently in "limp home mode". This can be for any number of reasons, a faulty sensor may cause this error, or a serious mechanical defect. If you can check the error codes, they may give you an insight into the error. Otherwise, if you do not have the ability to do so, you should get your vehicle checked out as soon as possible by a specialist.
Why Does my car make a "clunk" noise at 12MPH?
This is a standard, dont worry about it. This is the ABS system completing a self test. It is perfectly normal even if it sometimes sounds a bit much.
If you think we should add anything to the above, please visit this thread and post your recommendation. If there are any inaccuracies, or you would like to add more information, Also post on this thread.
TDCiST made a winter specific thread HERE if your question is not answered above.