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  2. You might want to post that in the Mondeo forum... The 1.5 and 1.0 ecoboost engines are very different, with the former not available on the Fiesta.
  3. Throttle body?
  4. Indeed, certainly starting to regret it. If only the morons in government actually had a clue what they were talking about and taxed vehicles properly and fairly in the first place instead of making everyone buy a diesel for cheap running :(
  5. Very easy to fit. Plug into the lighter, position the camera, run the lead round the rubber trim. Job done. You can obviously play with the settings too if you like. Hard wiring is trickier, but not hard. I recommend Transcend products. Very good reputation. The older DrivePro 200 is a superior product to their newer cameras because you can leave it in the car in all weathers. It just lacks GPS which to my mind is a gimmick anyway - particularly if most of your driving is in town.
  6. You would hope so, but how many dodgy products come out of China for every good one? If something needs a fan, or even just a heat sink, it must produce a hell of a lot of heat. How does this translate into faulty LEDs going wrong, or even just reaching the end of their life? I would obviously hope it's without event :)
  7. A new screen has sorted the problem. Unfortunately it was screen was from a sync system, not the pre-sync, so I now have only the basic functions - no bluetooth or usb. I don't know if I can reprogram the screen to work with the pre-sync or if a screen with a serial number beginning with B rather than A will never work properly with it and I need to buy an exact serial match. Third option - buy a sync stereo module?
  8. Since I bought the Focus (1.8 Zetec petrol engine with IB5 gearbox) it has had an issue which I haven't been too bothered about, and couldn't find an answer by searching Google so put it on the "back burner". The issue is that there is an intermittent high-pitched whining noise when the clutch is depressed. When the pedal is released it is completely silent and never makes a noise when driving, even during heavy acceleration. By intermittent, I mean it is there 75% of the time and the other 25% it just vanishes. Am I correct in saying it sounds like the throw out bearing, and if so how long should I expect it to last, and if/when it "goes", how exactly would it fail? At the moment the noise level is audible over the engine, but not obscene to the point where it sounds like the gearbox is going to explode!! Either way, the car cost £190 so I am hesitant to do anything until it is absolutely necessary, so if it will last another few years, or can even be left until it does fail (provided the car isn't driven far away from home), then I'd rather do that than fix it straight away.
  9. Glad you got it sorted mate 👍
  10. Hello, I wonder if anyone can help with this issue. (2007 Ka Luxury Duratec 1.3 8v, 25k miles, garaged, battery replaced 8 months ago) Came to the car the other day and as soon as it fired it stopped (instantly, no splutter) Then it refused to fire again, although it always turns over fine. I did, however, notice that I couldn't hear the fuel pump prime. So I swapped the fuel pump relay around and checked the fuse (both seem ok); Following this; I could hear the fuel pump again but it only started briefly, then no fuel pump again. Next I plugged in a code reader but found no DTC codes at all, so I tried another code reader but again no codes. I know the code reader was working because I could see the live data like throttle position and temps. Then I decided to unplug the battery overnight and in the morning it fired and ran perfectly for 10 minutes or so, but after turning it off then trying to restart - no fuel pump prime - no start. So I unplugged the battery again for a few hours and again it started perfectly, so I went for 10 mile drive and the car ran perfectly. Turned off and yep - no fuel pump prime again- no start. After trying to start it a couple of times, it then worked perfectly and I have tried a couple of times again and it has worked first time. There are still no codes to read other than p1001 which I believe is OBD cycle not complete. Sadly I can't use the car because I can't risk it not starting again. Any experiences or suggestions will be gladly received.
  11. Just if anyone has similar issues to me. A new screen has sorted the problem. Unfortunately it was screen was from a sync system, not the pre-sync, so I now have only the basic functions - no bluetooth or usb. I don't know if I can reprogram the screen to work with the pre-sync or if a screen with a serial number beginning with B rather than A will never work properly with it and I need to buy an exact serial match. Third option - buy a sync stereo module?
  12. So should be this one then?- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Satellite-Navigation-Sat-Nav-SD-Card-V6-West-Europe-Cheapest-In-Uk-/142249835663?hash=item211ec03c8f:g:3FgAAOSwLEtYfzu2
  13. Well how would I know if it is diesel, should I be able to smell diesel from under the bonnet, would I seek a leak from the injector if the injectors were leaking ? cheers for bothering to reply. What do you think the value of my car would is worth it is a black 2006 mk2 ford focus sport 1.8 tdci with 155,580 on the clock ? edit: and sayiong unicorn fats was just stupid and non related to this topic and was posted by a troll who wanted to be fed
  14. good one, i think i am going to steer more towards K&N as iv heard more reviews from of them
  15. Got it sorted in the end was a case of , Garage put the battery in the wrong way around, so lost its program, had to reprogram it again, all done! :) cheers !
  16. yeah it was a sale advert on FB and my sister was concidering it, so thats why i asked here about how easy it would be to fix but from the advice iv told her to stay away from that one, also seems suspishious that he hasnt replied to any messages of mine as he may be looking for a dumb buyer as i aksed quite a few question about the motor
  17. It's a chain afaik, as my ecoboost is based on it. Should last lifetime of engine.
  18. Hey guys, So. My 2013 Ecoboost 125 has been fitted with a Bluefin remap, to go along with Mountune induction kit, also primary and secondary induction hoses. All was going sweet, the performance increase was so much better than I anticipated. Then, after about 3000 miles, there's become a noticeable increase of white smoke coming out of the exhaust when I accelerate. I have two possible causes. 1. Had the car's third year major service done at a Ford main dealer near my mums house 60 miles away for £100 cheaper than my local main dealer, so I thought I'd go stay with the family for a couple of days (kill 2 birds with 1 stone,Winner!) . 450ish miles later, brown smoke was coming from under the bonnet. Turns out,the oil filter hadn't been put on incorrectly and the engine had run pretty much dry, for how long, I don't know. The Mechanic at my local ford says no damage has been done to the engine as far as he could see. 2. The Bluefin. I tried to research as much as I could about the remap and possible issues, i couldn't see much. It was on sale one day, so I thought "what the hell" Any Ideas? Cheers in advance :)
  19. Today
  20. I bought my flip key from the same supplier as Simon (simcor).The service was excellent, I sent a close-up picture of the blade as cut on my current key at 13:00 ish and the finished key dropped through the letter box first thing NEXT MORNING, amazing. To top it off the key actually turned in the door and ignition! Programming it to suit the car was not so quick. I am not up to all this Forscan clever stuff. The delay was mainly my fault since I had not done my homework properly. Local car key specialists quoted £60 to match the key to the car. My frequently used one said he would do it for £40. I sent Mrs ScaniaPBman round and he did the biz in 10 mins. Total price comes out at £31+£40= £71 If the frequently used man had done the whole job he would have charged £100 to supply the key and fully programme it. The others started from £125 for the same thing. I didn't even bother to get a price from my neighbourhood Ford dealer, I felt certain they would not match these prices. ScaniaPBman.
  21. Sync it's not touch screen thanks for reply
  22. Could be corroded anywhere from the connector to sensor to the multi plug. Quite often it's at a random point in harness. You can figure it out quite easily with a multimeter. Best way is disconect harness from sensor and multi plug end . Then unclip from bumper area. Then you can test on a workbench or kitchen table in the warm and repair as necessary.
  23. Hi all, Hoping for some assistance. The other half's car had a big water leak last week. Coolant pouring from the inspection hole in the water pump housing. Filled it up again, started engine and over the next 20 min 2 litres of water poured back out. Radiator, pipework, heater matrix, head gasket all OK. Spoke to the mechanic today hoping he'd the water pump replacement finished to be told that the pump and seals are all OK. He suspects that it is an internal seal / possible cracking in water jacket. Has anyone any ideas of were to start looking or is it going to be an expensive engine strip? Thanks
  24. It will be the steering gear and module unfortunately. Fairly common
  25. Having had my drivers side mirror removed by a dear old lady - it exploded, the powdered glass was all up my window and I was left with a stump - I priced a replacement from Ford, cost of parts £350-ish. Nothing in the breakers, on fleabay I found a complete replacement, pattern, from Latvia for £116 + £28 p&p. Physically identical except that it doesn't have the narrow segement down the side, the wiring colours were different and the plug was 8 pin, the Mondy is a 12. Before I go any further my background is a control panel and systems designer, so wiring is something I've done a fair bit of. While I was waiting for delivery (10 days or so) I stuck a round blind spot mirror on what was left, better than nothing. Attached .pdf of wiring mods. Mondeo Mirror.pdf Tony
  26. RIP Brandy .
  27. do them one at a time when you get the brake light to work on the pedal then move on to the next two wires
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