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    • Stoney871

      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.

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  2. Flash Code 16 - No crank.

    About to ring Ford Tech again and will ask, good thing is they log all calls and details against the reg so they know the detail of the last call. Will update soon, but is there anything you would like me to ask on your behalf? ;-)
  3. Flash Code 16 - No crank.

    Look for PCM or engine control, or similar. And for you engine variant under that heading. I think your engine may be a Sigma type, if that appears. Ian knows a lot more about Etis than me, I find it a scary place! Though when I last looked, there is a 50 euro minimum fee to access wiring diagrams. It may be different where you are, though.
  4. clutch slip

    not sure if i have abs but would it be a problem beleeding the brakes if i do
  5. Electric

    Hi can anyone help? I have a 2013 ford mondeo, when I open drivers side door with the ignition on but with the engine off i blow the door fuse 90% of the time all the electronics go off in the door however, if I open door with engine running it blows the mobilized fuse. I thought must be bare wire in door loom so I've replaced the loom and its still happening. Thanks Richie.
  6. Hi there, I am currently looking for an induction kit for my Mk6 Fiesta Zetec S 1.6 TDCI and am having no luck all I could find were better panel filters. Anyone know where I might find one?
  7. 2014 zetec s td.....noise

    Just checked the paperwork. The 37.5k mile (?) service was carried out at 23k miles last may, so its only done under 5k miles since then!
  8. morning all, have a 2006 ka a wire on the alternator had corroded away and the battery went flat! wire repaired and battery fully charged that's now all ok, BUT now have no dip or main beam. have checked for power to headlight connectors but no power! have checked switch/relays and fuses which are all ok with 12v, so it seems to be from the fuse box to the lights them selfs?
  9. Pothole Damage

    Quote:- If the money was available, all highway authorities would love to fully reconstruct roads rather than have to resort to cheaper methods to surface or patch them. If the gov. used all the road tax money it collected on the roads then there would be very little problems instead of siphoning off some of it and using it elsewhere, we motorists are just treated as cash cows.
  10. Ecoboost low oil pressure

    Have they checked the oil pressure control solenoid valve? Ecoboost uses variable pressure controlled by this solenoid.
  11. GAP insurance -what is it?

    Basically, Its an insurance that if your car is written off it will pay you the difference between what you paid for the car and what you insurance company gives you.
  12. Connectors off inside of headlight

    Wrong. The legislation was changed. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/aftermarket-hid-headlamps/aftermarket-hid-headlamps 3. HID headlamp unit requirements Therefore a HID headlamp unit sold in the aftermarket should: be type approved to ECE Regulation 98 as a component when fitted to the vehicle should enable ECE Regulation 48 to be complied with (although no government inspection will take place) comply with RVLR as far as “use” is concerned In practice this means: the headlamp unit (outer lens, reflector, bulb) shall be type approved to ECE 98 and be “e-marked” to demonstrate this. That can only be done by the headlamp supplier - Hella, Valeo etc. - who must test the headlamp in an independent laboratory once fitted to the vehicle it must have headlamp cleaning and self-levelling (which can be for the headlamp or can be in the vehicle suspension - some expensive estate cars have “self-levelling suspension” and that is adequate). Also the dipped beam must stay on with the main beam the headlamp must be maintained in good working order, kept clean, and aligned/adjusted correctly in the same way as any other headlamp Under the Road Traffic Act 1988 it is an offence to supply, fit or use vehicle parts which are not legal. In summary: it is not permitted to convert an existing halogen headlamp unit for use with HID bulbs. The entire headlamp unit must be replaced with one designed and approved for use with HID bulbs and it must be installed in accordance with the rules stated above.
  13. Today
  14. Ecoboost low oil pressure

    Hi all, having some issues with my Ecoboost engine (apparently I'm in good company). The car was built in April 2013, it's the 99BHP manual with 84k on the clock and according to ETIS the engine code is probably SFJA (the car is currently with a garage so I need to confirm this). I bought the car as a private sale last September, so no comeback on the seller for the issue. A little over a week ago, the car started to report low oil pressure for a prolonged period on startup (a few seconds), then on a return journey the pressure warning would sound intermittently when driving; most notably associated with roundabouts and hill descents. Also accompanied by a very occasional and brief increase in engine rattle that made me think definitely not a sensor problem. Obviously checked the oil level when the issue started and it was healthy. Had I had my way we would have stopped and had the vehicle recovered, but SWIMBO was in charge of that decision and we had a youngster with us so nursed the car home instead as mostly it appeared to still be running healthily. Since recovered the car to a garage, who have confirmed the car has low oil pressure but want a day and a half's labour just to strip it down and investigate the cause. They are recommending fitting a new engine rather than rectifying the fault - a new engine being nearly £3k, plus £600 to fit. I don't fancy that, considering that's pushing three quarters of the car's value. So I'm thinking of getting hold of a low mileage engine off a breaker and fitting it myself (I'm a competent home mechanic with garage space to do the swap). They appear to be readily available and sensibly priced as the car is quite popular. I can then either sell on my engine as spares/repair or refurbish at my leisure and keep a spare. My questions: 1) Is anyone else aware of oil pressure related failures of the Ecoboost? I've heard a lot about turbo pipes and water leaks, but not seen anything on oil pressure 2) Engine codes - there are four variants of the 99BHP engine with codes SFJA through D. I know the A/B are Stage V and C/D are stage VI. I presume from ETIS (above) and the MY that mine is a stage V SFJA. Can, and should, I try and fit a later stage VI engine - I presume there are a number of modifications that Ford will have made through the production run to iron out earlier problems? I am guessing also that the A/C are for manual gearbox and the B/D are for the Powershift - I've never seen this confirmed though 3) Is there anyone on here who has done an engine swap on one of these, and do they have any particular bits of advice for me? Thanks in anticipation, Chris
  15. GAP insurance -what is it?

    Has anyone ever heard of GAP insurance? If so do you know what it is? thanks
  16. Clutch gone at 52,000 ?

    120 is fair for a FULL service, make sure its a full service otherwise you may be getting ripped off, new clutch for your model is 200 quid, 250 with slave cylinder (its worth getting them both replaced) so 140 labour for a new clutch...hmmmm, seems a little bit expensive, maybe should be 40 cheaper, but its worth asking if they are replacing the slave cylinder as well as the clutch itself, all in all id maybe say 500 is a fair price for everything
  17. Not the easiest diagrams to navigate
  18. Flash Code 16 - No crank.

    OMG, confused, don't know where to start with the wiring diagram directory!!!!
  19. Flash Code 16 - No crank.

    Hello! A new follower to the saga.! Thanks, will go back in now.
  20. Your in mechanical, you need to click on wiring diagrams, then power train,engine,engine electronic controls.or if looking for fuse and relays that's under power distribution.thats under general wiring information.
  21. Flash Code 16 - No crank.

    Where would I start? £7 for an hours delving.😁
  22. Dash cam advice!

    you can get ones without the screen you wanting just a front camera or both front and rear? I have a thinkware F750 front and rear camera, both 1080p 30 fps I couldn't be happier with it. well, that's not completely true but within the confines of technology, I couldn't be happier. The little gem has caught a couple of hit and runs such as Yes ive named and Shamed and I don't care, the stupidity of this should be an example to everyone driving large cars they cant see out the back of
  23. Pothole Damage

    Quite a few years ago my dad tried making a claim for pothole damage to his NS tyre and alloy by a pothole. He measure the pothole' s dimensions, photographed it and got in touch with the council. Basically he was told the only way he could claim recompense was through the small claims court... not sure whether that was against the council or the highways agency. Needless to say he never pursued the claim. Reading here, I am beginning to think that he was fobbed off.
  24. Flash Code 16 - No crank.

    Extracting useful diagrams from Etis is not easy! The diagrams are in many small sections, though all the PCM related stuff should be in one section. Some of them are pdfs, but many are only viewable,though they can be printed. If you have a print-to-pdf facility on the computer, this might work ok. The trouble with pin 4 is it needs to be checked with the relay in, or some substitute resistance. If the relay is not energising, and is functional, then it can not be getting 12v across its coil. One end of the coil is measuring 12v an the socket, the other measuring 0v at the socket, so one of these voltages must change when the relay is connected to them. Yes I guess 90ohms is ok, that is 1.6W at 12v, which I suppose is not excessive for a cheap (ie Ford) automotive power relay! I am more used to higher spec, lower power relays these days. I would test for continuity (low resistance, <1ohm) between the relay socket pin2 and either end of F12 socket (F12 removed). Then the other end of F12 should go to ECU pin M8.
  25. 2014 zetec s td.....noise

    The slightly weird thing with Ford and the 1.6 TDCi is that they don't bother recommending a low SAPS oil, where as Peugeot who largely designed this engine do recommend a low SAPS oil (like most manufacturers that have DPF equipped vehicles). Hopefully 2-3 people on here that have been running this engine for a few years will be along to advise on their oil choice and if they've had any problems.
  26. clutch slip

    When I did mine it was a plastic tap I turned not an actual bleed nipples. Like on the brakes. I'm not sayin its the cause of clutch slip I was simply pointing out I had a problem n a simple fix sorted it.
  27. Yup, actually removing the EGR is a real PITA on MK2 Focus version of the engine. I'd quite enjoy slapping (repeatedly) the person who decided to make it part of the intake manifold and a fairly large job to remove!
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