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    • Stoney871

      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


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  2. Sorry if I have posted in wrong section but am new and if I have please could admin move to correct section I am sorry if this is the case am not been lazy it’s a genuine mistake . I have a Fiesta titanium 2012 1.4 petrol automatic. Great little car. But when the car car is at normal temperature the heating is nice and warm. Then for about 5 seconds it blows cool air out then goes back to hot again. Then a minute later repeats and just carrys on doing it I didn’t notice this tho for first week or two after buying from ford. Can anyone else else tell me if they have had this sort of problem before. If so is there a reason for this ?. Is this normal ? What is the fix ? Thanks for taken time out to read and reply to this
  3. I know this is old but doesn't the st-line start at 99bhp and the older zetec s start at 123bhp? I had titanium with sports kit added which was 99bhp, which was stolen, so bought zetec s after which has 123bhp. Can't fault zetec s feel the power difference which pull much more and pisses all over many car in 4th on A roads like they ain't even there
  4. Nothing different, st-line just replaced the Zetec S. So just bought a zetec S with st-line on ur receipt. Nothing to worry about in have 2013 zetec 125 and love it
  5. Today
  6. Hi, Bannko.

    I need your know how to get all these essentials to activate my 2016 Ford Kuga Titanium x satnav and would appreciate approx. costs of all apart from an SD F6 CARD, this is I have cheers, ANDYMCF.

  7. Another consideration, if there’s fluid getting onto the disc, your pads will be contaminated with fluid aswell.
  8. OBD won’t connect

    CANBUS fault? Peter has a guide for testing the resistance of the canbus networks.
  9. I’ve changed seals and pistons successfully before, it can be a bit tricky so unless you are someone who is into the real mechanics of how these bits are assembled I’d go for chucking a recon caliper on it. You strictly speaking don’t need a flare spanner but do be careful undoing the hose. Any sign of it starting to round off, stop! I had a job on a Peugeot 206 a couple of weeks ago doing rear shoes and cylinders. Thought the brake pipes and securing bolts were never coming out! Bolt heads weren’t even hex shaped anymore! Put some serious heat on them, smoke belching out from the seals in the cylinder lol. Got them all out though with no casualties or 2 piece bolts.
  10. Brim the tank, drive for 4 days, then brim the tank again, work out your MPG from that and see if the engine really is using that much fuel, or if your fuel sender is faulty. I think you'd notice using 25L of fuel instead of closer to 5L! Your car must smell beautifully rich!
  11. Yesterday
  12. Smax faulty horn please help

    When you say the relay "switches" have you physically tested for continuity between the switched contacts or are you just hearing the click? They can still click (the electromagnetic coil is still working), but the contacts make no contact inside it. Does anything else not work on the steering wheel if you have any steering wheel controls? Any ABS/ESP lights?
  13. Just out of curiosity (I haven't used my stands yet) - where's best to stick them? I figure the pinch weld I put the jack isn't a good place for the stands.
  14. Rear drum brake stuck

    Ref: stuck drum brakes. Yep, happens in my car all the time. Wash car, put it away, they groan the next morning. Happens in the Jaaaag as well, rear discs notwithstanding. I would like to meet the man who invented drum brakes, and shake him warmly by the throat. My 1983 Mini Shi*te, er, I mean Sprite. Drums all round, 1275, 10 inch alloys. Like The Terminator, it absolutely would not stop after you'd washed it. Lesson well learned. As Dee says, insurers don't like you mucking about with braking systems. Another lesson learned when I changed my R6 Rover Metro from a 1.4 GTa to a 1.8 VVC. 75BHP to 160 BHP we can do, but brake mods? Er.... tell us about it.
  15. Get some stands with that jack. Do not go under a vehicle raised only on a jack - If the jack hydraulics fail or the car is shifted the car falls - if there are no stands, then it falls onto you. I bought a jack, and a pair of 3 ton stands for £30~, it is just not worth the risk.
  16. Hi from Lancashire!

    Hi I'm Mark from Lancashire just thought id put a quick introduction on here say hi, I'm the owner of a 99 escort 55 van and love it! Slow but full of character 😂😆 hope to talk to many of you gain some knowledge and hopefully hand some out if possible too, thanks! 🙂
  17. Clunk clunk clunk

    Like Dee_82 said, there is no guarantee that it's been done if the aux belts look new, but it is prescribed to change the belt/s when doing the timing belt (as they need to come off, and are the "stretchy" type), so the markings should be present in some shape or form. My old belts (with 84k) were marking less when they came off along with being crazed all over.
  18. Thanks Isetta, I understand rust is corrosion, I meant there are no holes there... Yet! I will look into waxoyl undersealer. When using the wirebrush, is there any certain technique to follow or is it simply scrub off the rust, clean and apply underseal? Thank you for your recommendation!
  19. Rear drum brake stuck

    nothing hard but quite a few steps, you need new hand brake cables, brake hoses, caliper, carrier, splash shields and some bolts, heres a guide made by one of our very own members, Drum brake to Disc brake conversion.pdf hardest part was disconnecting the old drum and getting the parts you need, one word of caution, Mr insurance will want to know and most insurers wont touch brake modifications.
  20. Hi Foz did you manage to sort this problem out in the end? Having the same problem on an s-max 2.2tdci 175bhp thanka
  21. Also, do i need a 'flare spanner'? Never heard of one until i watched a youtube video.....
  22. MK7.5 Fiesta ST-Line - Subtle Mods!

    Ordered some interior LEDs from AutoBeam and they arrived today so I decided to fit them. Red footwell LEDs, Ice white courtesy light, reading lights and boot light. Got rid of all the horrible yellow tinted bulbs that come as standard! Apologies for the quality, only had my phone to hand:
  23. Rear drum brake stuck

    How complex is it to do a rear disc conversion?
  24. Fiesta 1.25 Or 1.4 - Petrol Versions

    Old post I know, just registered to say thanks for the info, I'm looking at a 2012 1.4 5 door Titanium and this has convinced me to go for it!
  25. Cheers Dee. I've just gone for the ECP one, works out at £87 once I've taken back the old one. Any tips for changing the caliper?
  26. Rear drum brake stuck

    one of the reasons I did a rear disc conversion. god awful things are drums.
  27. i found it quite tricky changing the seals on them, when I did my rear disc conversion I recon'd some Volvo calipers, much cheaper than buying new but if your in a hurry, its maybe not the best option.
  28. 17S09 Recall For 1.6L GTDI Cooling system

    😳 That is quite a list of parts that need to be fitted! I am guessing that inside the car there are no visable changes just a warning that would come up on the dash ‘if’ the car’s coolant dropped below the sensor. Has anyone got any pictures of the changes to the engine bay highlighting the various changes? Haven’t got around to phoning my local Ford dealer yet and to be honest I’m not sure that I want my car to be there first to have the work done as I am sure they will find a way to improve the install given a bit of time. Given that I have already replaced a failed ( but caught in time ) degas hose, found micro cracks in the expansion bottle and rad cap does anyone think that I am I entitled to a refund?
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