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  2. 2012 Ranger 2.2 Duratorq 150 PS DPF problems

    No resetting of dpf. DTC will clear once regeneration has been done successfully.
  3. Sync3 and Climate screen

    For those that have Sync3 (Late 2016 and 2017) and have the heated/cooled seats, can you tell me if you get buttons on the Climate page to operate these functions and when they are on, do you get a symbol on the top of the screen (when in any screen other Climate) that shows the seat is on. On images ive seen this is usually next to your temperature setpoint for eithr driver or pax. The reason I ask is that I dont and I wonder if mh APIM module has not been configured correctly for the heated/cooled seat option!
  4. Focus MK2 Drivebelt?

    under the sump with a block of wood to spread the load is the usual place.
  5. Heads Up! Cheap Oil and Stuff in Tesco

    It certainly is. But I'm an oil snob. BTW. Shell Helix Synthetic at my local Shell service station, over £20 per litre! Now that is a rip off.
  6. Sony Dab Navigator Upgrade

    Thanks for that info going to give it a try.
  7. Ford badge gel domed for fiesta 09 plate

    I've looked on eBay I orderd some and they was a right mess didn't even cover the badge they used to be someone on ere that did them as I got my old ones of here
  8. Back on ford owners club after 2 years

    Yes I'll let you know there's a website called motocross.co.uk they sell allsorts on there aswell
  9. Today
  10. Mk3 Instrument Cluster Swap

    Thanks. Yes browsing this forum I think I've came to the conclusion I'm on sync 1 and my friends screen I mentioned earlier seams to be sync 1.1 as he has Bluetooth track info and the symbols on the left of his screen. Going to change my cluster for larger screen version. And check my local scrap yard for a 5" Sony display for radio then reprogram the unit to accept the 5" screen. Hope its as straightforward as that lol
  11. @Bannko, if possible could you please PM me the info required for the satnav upgrade ? Many thanks Daniel
  12. When tyre fitters fit tyre on a rim they paste like glue or something that seals air from leaking .once tyre is on they dip in water tank to look for bubbles. Which would mean leaking air if bubbles appear. Over time they tend to leak air especially when rims are old & paint flaking. Yunii Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
  13. Understood. To be honest it's not something I've heard of being done (i.e. DIYing with a stock Ford map) but that could easily be my ignorance on the matter.
  14. The 125 original Ford map I think it has been more studied and tested than a non-original, that's my thought. In addition, aftermarket maps have 130 and more horses. That Ford is a little more conservative , aftermarket it raises my doubts about the actual engine life over the years ... this of course is still my opinion.
  15. service due indicators are solely based on time elapsed since last reset , usually 12 mths , no other parameters are monitored , such as milage or oil condition. just reset it yourself if serviced only 2 mths ago......
  16. Mk3 Instrument Cluster Swap

    I found one on ebay. I needed an early version which has support for BT/VC nokia system (pre-Sync). If you have 2 direction pads on the steering wheel (And volume below opposite cruise), you have an early vehicle and will need a sat nav display from a 2011/12 vehicle. Older ones will work, but your bluetooth won't work anymore. So basically.. just luck!
  17. coolant leaking, smoke coming from under the bonnet???

    its in the garage now, he said with confidence it wouldnt be the head gasket...
  18. 2012 Ranger 2.2 Duratorq 150 PS DPF problems

    On a side note, do I need to reset any of the values with ForScan now I have fitted a new vaporiser? I did try resetting the DTC prior to running the re-gen, just in case that was stopping it in some way, and the DTC just comes straight back when I cycle the ignition, so no way of removing it until the DPF is clear, or is there? Thanks Jim
  19. 2012 Ranger 2.2 Duratorq 150 PS DPF problems

    Right I have re-genned it again this morning, got to 59% again and failed, DPF soot still at 157%. Only a bit of smoke when the re-gen started and it revved up to 2500 RPM. Exhaust tailpipe no where near as hot as 1st re-gen. Only DTC I am getting from ForScan is P2463. Any views on this? I don't want to keep forcing re-gen in case I damage something else. I just had a local firm clean the DPF, they said some came out but not loads, is it worth getting the DPF cleaned again now the vaporiser is working or is this pointing to a really badly blocked DPF and needs replacing? Thanks again Jim
  20. Steering wheel wobble (NOT WHEELS)

    I had something similar which turned out to be a tyre which was wearing non-uniformly - if you raised the car on a ramp and turned the wheel, you could feel a wavy surface as you rub your hand over the turning wheel. It started on a front wheel and was less noticeable when I rotated to the rear but eventually got worst - would start at about 55-60mph but die off if I accelerated beyond 70mph. when on the front ,it was also noticeable when turning and braking at the same time when that wheel was on the front. I changed the tyres and all has been fine since...worth a try?
  21. coolant leaking, smoke coming from under the bonnet???

    "Head gaskets are prone to more failures after they've gone for the first time". I do agree with this in general. You see car adverts where it says just had head gasket done. That to me is a bad thing - to keep quiet about, not a good thing to mention. I know in theory it should not be more likely to fail but it can be - eg, was the head skimmed, and even if they charged you for head skimming, was it actually done properly or at all. You can't tell unless you saw the head when it came back from the skimmers before fitting.
  22. focus brake caliper spring

    Don't get copper grease on any of the rubber seals it can cause the seals to rot/expand and a seized caliper is not something you want on a icy December morning
  23. My fiesta - details on left. Last serviced by Ford 2,500 miles ago, about 2 months ago. Today it comes up saying Oil change due service required on the display with orange spanner on the dash. I know I can reset this (by holding a certain pedal down with the key in a certain position - can't recall exactly right now) but I want to know exactly what criteria causes this message. Is it based purely on mileage since last reset? does time period come into it? , the car was serviced 363 days ago, so could it be influenced by that and not having been reset at the recent service (although that was 15,000 miles ago and service interval is 12,500 or one year whichever is first). does it actually check the oil somehow? I ask this because it is diesel and the engine oil level looks high on dipstick which I know can be caused by incomplete DPF cleaning cycle and the diesel it uses to do this ends up in the sump with the oil, thinning it and raising the level. So, does the car actually have any kind of sensors to take this into account (thinning oil and rising oil level) which raises the engine oil message on the dash? Please let me know - I could just reset it and forget about it, but if it is trying to warn me about thinning oil caused by incomplete dpf cleaning cycles I ought to know. (by the way, my usual journey to work is 33 miles each way, about 25 miles of the 33 mile journey is motorway/fast dual carriageway at about 70mph so I would have thought it has chances to do dpf properly)
  24. Fiesta Mk6 stereo

    I don't know about the radio. I can tell you the car is a Mk7 going by UK designations, but would be called a mk6 in some countries. The UK got one mark ahead of others when the mk4 came out, which was a mk3 facelift in some other countries. It gets very confusing when looking for parts on ebay as a lot of stuff on there uses the non-uk designation (ie Mk6 for your car)
  25. Steering wheel wobble (NOT WHEELS)

    Just a thought. How about a buckled alloy wheel rim? It could have resulted from a kerb strike sometime in the past. Balancing may not pick up an out of true rim. What would I do? First off jack the front up with both wheels off the ground and support with axle stands. Then run the engine and transmission up to 60 or 70 MPH. Does the problem still happen? Can you see any wheel run out on the way up to this speed that might indicate a deformed tyre or rim? Best of luck. ScaniaPBman.
  26. brakes

    Drums are notorious for noise due to brake dust, just make sure. If your saying "sounds like" i sence your not 100 percent. So its a all windows down job when your driving and making sure it is indeed the front drivers side. If indeed its just the drivers side, take out the pads, sand everywhere where the pad make contact including the inside bit of the caliper where it makes contact with back of the pad and then use the copper ease covering all areas and dont be shy with it. Then sand the face of each pad evenly (not hard, just corse it up). Then go easy to bed the pad back in, dont slam on. Also sand the outer edge of the disc if there is a lip forming on both sides dont be afaird to go hard on the disc. If you do this and it squeeks its the pads, get oem or a better brand, however if its just one side its probably down to vibration noise. Once the pad makes a little contact (light braking) with the disc as you can imagine with the pads in there fixed position with no where to go and the force of the piston, its metal on metal so they vibrate, certain vibrations make sound, copper ease will solve this. There are other things you can use but copper ease will be enough if done properly. I suggest after sanding well making sure all the crap is removed from all areas, get a rag and break cleaner and leather it on and make sure its as clean as you can get it. With part of the caliper off you can also check how freely the pads will slide, some makes can be tight some can be loose. Just be observant, the brake setup like i said is quite simple. im sure if its just the one side then you have missed something, im guessing not sanding properly and maybe the back of the pads/ not sanding where it makes contact on the caliper or not enough copper ease, a little flick of it will NOT do, it needs to be applied properly. Crap can build up at the inside of the caliper where the back of the pads sit making the pad sit ever so slightly uneven which again can cause a noise. Sand everywhere, so its like new. If you are not doing this yourself, make sure the person doing it doesnt take any shortcuts. If you do this, which shouldnt take long atall and it still does it, then new pads. But im guessing with one side only making noise its due to something thats been missed, garages take many shortcuts and although they may do the correct job they take shortcuts. This is why i always do my own brakes, do the job properly first time and you should never have an issue. I suggest doing this yourself, if you want something done properly do it yourself. Then you wont have to mess with your brakes for a very long time. Hope you get it sorted.
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