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Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 09/20/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Phil21185

    Things I Don't Like

    I will be dragged kicking and screaming away from Win 7 Ultimate 64. Why don't these tech companies understand that we wanna use our extremely expensive devices the way WE wanna use them, not the way YOU think we should. And for the love of all that is sacred, please ensure something actually works properly before shipping it all around the world then forcing us to endure hours of updates because you did a crappy job in the first place. We are customers. Not your beta testers. Sorry...I...um...seem to have gone off a bit there, haven't I?
  2. 5 points
    I drive my 125 HP 1.0 ECOboost for over 3 Years now and I am still quite impressed. Power, Torque and engine character are very impressive for such a small engine. In my opinion the 1.0 ECOboost is a much nicer engine as the old 1.6 TI-VCT it replaced. I regularly drive the 1.6 ECOboost of my parents which I converted from 150 HP to 182 HP using the original software. Despite the 1.6 ECOboost is also a nice engine I actually prefer my 1.0 ECOboost. In my opinion the 1.0 ECOboost is a lot more responsive. in the last 3 Years my average fuel consumption is 50 MPG on 98 octane (RON) fuel. I do not care about fuel consumption at all so if I did the MPG could probably even be better. On long trips I easily get 60 MPG. Most coolant system problems of the 1.0 ECOboost are caused by the higher coolant temperature. In relation to the older naturally aspirated petrol engines the direct injected, turbocharged 1.0 and 1.6 ECOboost petrol engines have a considerably higher engine and coolant temperature. This causes some plastic and vulcanised rubber materials that are used for some coolant system parts to deteriorate prematurely. Examples of this are the degas hose, coolant reservoir, coolant reservoir cap, etc. The Focus MK3/MK3.5 for example uses the exact same coolant reservoir as the earlier C-max MK1/Focus MK2. This type of reservoir was introduced in 2003 on the C-max MK1 and has been used for many engine types without any problems. The ECOboost engines are the only ones which suffers from premature coolant reservoir failures on a large scale. On the ECOboost engines the plastic material of the coolant reservoir can develop (micro)cracks and discoloration which in the end causes the reservoir to burst. Another point of concern is the coolant itself. The higher coolant temperature causes the coolant to crystallize. This causes crystal deposits to attach inside the coolant system parts. As a result of this for example the coolant reservoir cap can seize solid onto the reservoir. on the long term the deposits inside the cooling system can eventually cause blockages of the coolant system. Next to this the Earlier versions of the 1.0 ECOboost (build approximately before 2015) suffer from a design fault. These early versions only have a coolant temperature sensor that is mounted inside the coolant system and measures the coolant temperature. This sensor is used by the PCM to monitor the coolant temperature and control the temperature gauge and the temperature warning light. In case of a coolant leak the coolant leaks away pretty quick. When this happens the coolant temperature measures air instead of coolant. Air does not conduct the temperature very well. Because of this the PCM does not detect overheating of the engine at all or much too late. In this case when the driver notices the activated temperature warning light it is usually too late already. Serious engine damage as a result of overheating can occur without the driver even noticing. On later versions Ford solved this problem by installing an additional cylinder head temperature sensor. A little bit of coolant loss is quite normal for these engines. The waterpump of the 1.0 and 1.6 ECOboost has a seal that is lubricated and cooled by coolant. This type of seal is known to leak a tiny bit of coolant (especially when new and the seal has not yet fully bedded in). Because of this these water pumps do all have small signs of coolant loss. In the past many perfectly fine water pumps were changed because of these small coolant signs. The 1.0 ECOboost is a very popular engine. In some countries 2/3 of all Focus MK3/MK3.5 wehicles that were sold are equipped with the 1.0 ECOboost. There are a significant number of examples of engine damage caused by a coolant related problem. However compared to the sales figures of the 1.0 ECOboost the percentage of vehicles with these problems is very, very low. Generally only people with these problems will write about it on the internet. The many thousands of satisfied people withoput any problems do not. Most engine damage problems occur on vehicles that still have the old degas hose that is affected by the recall or cracked coolant reservoirs. Both can avoided pretty easy by regular inspections. If a vehicle still has the affected degas hose it should be replaced as soon as possible. By inspecting the coolant reservoir regularly any signs of discoloration or microcracks will be noticed. Discoloration and microcracks are early signs of the coolant reservoir deteriorating. If these symptoms are noticed the coolant reservoir should be replaced. In case of any doubts replacing the parts is no bad idea. These are all pretty inexpensive parts that can prevent a lot of problems. Unfortunately many Ford dealers these days do not have a clue about these problems. Most do not even inspect the coolant system during service and will not notice a deteriorating coolant reservoir. When I bought my car in 2014 I already replaced the degas hose (not a recall yet at that time). Last Year the coolant reservoir developed microcracks and discoloration. This made me decide to perform the following actions: * Replace the coolant reservoir. * Replace the coolant reservoir cap. * Replace the coolant. * Install the additional electric coolant pump (on vehicles produced before 05-05-2014 only present on vehicles with a factory fit towbar). After all parts were replaced I vacuum bled the coolant system and reprogrammed the PCM (necessary for the additional electric coolant pump). Luckily I have the skills/knowledge and tools to do this myself. As a precaution I am currently developing a low coolant warning system which consist of a coolant level sensor and a CANbus module that communicates directly to the instrument cluster. This way I will get a warning message on the instrument cluster display if the coolant level in the reservoir drops.
  3. 5 points
    Stoney871

    Fiesta ZS Thefts

    I believe the tool my fellow Officers are referring to are the ones for opening Tibbe locks. The current Laser key locks are much harder to pick but obviously still doable and readily available. Obviously the thieving scrots still have to dupe the car into thinking that an immobiliser chipped key is present. If you unlock your car using a physical key in the lock you still need to get past the fact that the alarm will go off if an immobiliser is not detected within 10 seconds. Best option to make them go elsewhere is block or move the obd port. While they are hunting for the port the alarm will drive them off. I have a moved & dummied port, clutch pedal lock, tracker and cctv so good luck to any tea leaf that selects my car. If they get past all that then there is also a Belgian Malinois with 42 sharp teeth waiting to take a chunk out of their thieving little arses. [emoji57] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
  4. 5 points
    So after having to do this twice on my Mk2 Focus (2005) in the last 18 months, I figured I would make a guide for anyone who experiences the same issue. I managed to piece together various forum posts and Haynes manual pictures to do this, I don't think there is a comprehensive guide (if there was, the photobucket issue will have more than likely effected it anyway!). After taking a lot useful information off this forum, I am giving back by making this guide as my first post. The symptoms first appeared in the form of my radiator fan staying on after the engine was turned off. After checking the coolant level (assumed that was the issue), it had dropped by more than half and at the same time had noticed a soggy driver's mat. Under the mat was a 'puddle' which, from the colour of the liquid, I discovered was engine coolant. Again after some inspection and forum digging I discovered one of the pipes coming through the bulkhead into the heater matrix (bottom of centre console) was leaking. This was due to a ruptured o-ring where two pipes join together. The leaked coolant after topping up the reservoir then driving home form work. The 'culprit'. Leaking coolant pipe join and the plastic clamp has popped off. If having the work done at a garage, they will more than likely result to dismantling the entire dashboard and replacing the heater pipes and/or matrix resulting in a very large cost mainly due to the labour involved (£400 plus I read people were getting quoted). The guide below requires just the cost of the Ford parts (around £15), 5 litres of coolant (£20ish), and about 2 hours of your time to replace the o-ring that causes this problem. Step by Step Guide 1. First off you will need some o-rings and pipe clamps. I have read in multiple places that only the actual Ford parts should be used due to incorrect sizing with other branded parts. I highly recommend purchasing at least 2 o-rings if not more as the first time I did this, I dropped 2 behind the centre console, never to be seen again. Ford part nos. 1342708 (o-ring) and 1454337 (pipe clamp). 2. Jack up car onto axle stand(s) and remove engine under tray (see Haynes Manual). 3. Drain coolant entirely by removing crosshead bung screw at the bottom right (nearside) of the radiator (remove coolant reservoir cap to increase rate of drain). 4. Remove/undo rubber heater pipes where they meet the metal pipes at the engine side of the bulkhead (Pics below). I only removed the top pipe as I could not access the bottom release clip but it happened to be the one that was leaking so worked in my favour. The clips require a 30o turn anti clockwise and pull off. The pipes swap orientation once through the bulkhead i.e. top pipe engine side becomes bottom pipe cabin side and vice versa. 5. Remove the driver's side dash panel, next to the clutch pedal, held in place by one T25 screw under a little cover. You will likely need a friend for this bit as they will need to pull on the engine side of the pipe whilst you lie in the driver's footwell and pull the lower part of the leaking pipe to split it at the join. The lower pipe inserts into the upper part about 1 inch. At this point you will see the ruptured o-ring which resides in the upper part of the pipe. Remove the old o-ring with a flat blade screwdriver (See pics below) 6. The most difficult part now, inserting the new o-ring. I found the best way to do this is looping the new o-ring over a long flat blade screwdriver and pointing in an inch or two into the upper pipe so that you hugely reduce the risk of dropping it. There is a slight recess for the o-ring to sit near the lip of the upper pipe. Using the large screwdriver to hold it steady, guide the o-ring into place using either your other hand or another, smaller flat blade. 7. With the o-ring finally in place, you will need your friend again to push on the engine side of the pipe whilst you guide the two split parts back together as closely joined as possible. 8. Finally, you will need to wrap and clip the pipe clamp around the join. This can be quite tricky as the join must be 100% flush and the clamps will only hold in place once clipped properly. This is best done with the aid of a pair of bent nose pliers. It should be tight and difficult to twist/rotate once clipped properly. 9. All left to do now is to re-attach the rubber pipes from the engine side of the bulkhead and refill the coolant reservoir. You will want to overfill the reservoir right to the top as when you start the engine, coolant will be sucked into the cooling system and dramatically reduce the level. Refill as necessary to the correct level and leave the engine running for 15 minutes and check for any more leaks in the cabin. If all is well, there will no longer be any leak at the join in the cabin. Job done! Let me know if you need any help if you have the same issue or have any questions/suggestions regarding the guide. Cheers!
  5. 5 points
    Ford have agreed to cover 100% of the repair cost. Delighted! Thanks all for your help, without the knowledge on this board i'd have continued driving the car and would now be facing the repair costs of a new engine.
  6. 5 points
    SeanW

    Things I Do Like

    Hartwell Ford of Scunthorpe are advertising the new Ford Scrappage Scheme...
  7. 4 points
    I couldn't find a guide for this on here so thought I'd take a few pictures of the process to help anyone else that may want to do it. All 1.6TDCi/HDi are more or less the same when it comes to the belt kit but the parts removed for access to the belt may be different for different models. Ford recommend 10 years or 100k miles so the facelift Focus' will be coming up to their 10 years now if they haven't covered the mileage. First buy the parts you need - Cambelt kit, auxilliary belt, waterpump, coolant (6 litre capacity, may get away with 5 litres), crank pulley bolt. I also bought a set of timing pins for under a tenner on ebay...but they didn't fit so make sure you've got some drill bits or similar to lock the pulleys! I chose the Dayco kit as that is original to PSA. I checked on removal of old parts, original Focus belt was Dayco, tensioner and idler were INA and waterpump was Pierburg. Up to you which brand to go with. Loosen the OSF wheel nuts. Jack up the car and support it on axle stands. Remove the undertray (7x T30 torx). Remove the OSF wheel and arch liner (6x T30 torx). Remove the engine cover (2x10mm nuts). Remove the auxiliary belt. This is done by pulling the sprung tensioner towards you. I prefer to use a 15mm socket rather than a spanner so there's no risk of slipping off. Ideally pin the tensioner in the open position. Simply slip the belt off the pulleys. Next remove the crankshaft pulley bolt (18mm). This can be done with an impact wrench but mine wasn't that tight, I managed it pretty easily with just a normal 3/4" ratchet. If doing it manually you will need to fit a flywheel locking tool. It is the largest of the timing pins and slots in just above the DPF downpipe. Once the bolt is removed the pulley should then easily lift away. Now support the engine with a trolley jack and block of wood so you can remove the top engine mount. Haynes suggests removing the coolant reservoir for this but you can just pop one of the pipes off, saves risking damage to the reservoir. You will need to remove the 2x T20 screws holding the brake fluid reservoir to the scuttle and just move it out of the way. The 2x mount nuts are 18mm, 2x bolts are 15mm. Next, remove the top and bottom cambelt covers (9x 7mm screws) and the engine mounting mount (bit with studs pictured above 4x 15mm). Different guides recommend different orders for removing these so do whatever you find easiest, there are some wiring loom clips on the covers which need popping off. The covers go over the mount but I found I needed to loosen the covers then remove the mount before I could wiggle the covers away completely. It is tight but I did it without unplugging or removing anything else. At this point, Haynes suggests removing the wipers and scuttle to get the top cambelt cover off, this seems to be totally unnecessary! You will also need to remove the crankshaft position sensor and the belt guide opposite the sensor - no pictures but they are right by the crank pulley. With the covers and engine mount mount removed you should end up with something like this. Refit the crankshaft pulley bolt and remove the flywheel locking pin. Turn the engine by hand until the camshaft, crankshaft and fuel pump line up with their timing holes. Be aware the cam and crank can line up without the fuel pump...I spent several minutes wondering what I'd done wrong there! Just need to turn it a few more rotations until they all line up. Then place your timing pins or drill bits to lock the pulleys in place. Once the pulleys are locked and you're happy to continue with the job, it's a good time to drain the coolant. There is a coolant drain plug at the bottom passenger side of the radiator, need a large flat screwdriver to undo it. This is the point of no return... Loosen the cambelt tensioner (13mm bolt). Remove the old belt. Remove the cambelt idler (15mm nut). Fully remove the tensioner. Remove the old waterpump (7x 8mm bolts), break the seal and expect some coolant to emerge from behind there. Clean the cavity and sealing area. Fit the new waterpump and gasket making sure to evenly tighten the bolts(10Nm). You may chose to use some gasket sealer as belt and braces. Fit the new cambelt idler (35Nm). Loosely fit the new sprung tensioner taking care not to pull the pin. Fit the new belt, making sure it's tight on the right hand side and that all the slack is around the tensioner. Remember only the waterpump can move at this point so if there's too much slack on one of the other pulleys, lift the belt and push it over a tooth. When you're happy with it, use a 6mm allan key to turn the tensioner until the belt is under the correct tension on the waterpump side. Then fully tighten the tensioner bolt (25Nm). Now remove all the locking pins and turn the engine over by hand 10 revolutions...this quickly gets tiring but it's worth doing lol! After 10 revolutions the pulleys should all line up with the timing marks again, double check by fitting the pins. Then make sure to remove the pins before going any further. At this point I tightened the radiator drain screw and refilled the cooling system to make sure there were no leaks from the waterpump. Now refit the crank sensor, the crank guide (10Nm), the engine mounting mount (55Nm) and the cambelt covers (5Nm...even I didn't bother torqueing those lol). The covers fit over the mount so that needs to be in place before the final cover tightening, but I found it easiest to loosely fit the covers first. Refit the top engine mount (80Nm nuts, 90Nm bolts). Refit the coolant reservoir pipe. Refit the brake fluid reservoir to the scuttle. Lower the trolley jack and remove from under the engine. Fit the flywheel locking tool as before. Refit the crankshaft pulley with a new bolt. Tighten to 30Nm + 180 degrees. Top tip, if you don't have an angle gauge, make a mark on the bolt head (this one already has one) and a mark/scratch on the pulley directly opposite. Then tighten the bolt until the marks meet. This is a bit awkward on the floor, especially as its easy to slip off the bolt and mash your hand on many things. Now remove the flywheel locking tool. Now fit the new auxiliary belt and reset the sprung tensioner. Now for the worst part...starting the engine for the first time after the belt change! Hopefully it should just fire up immediately. If not, check the flywheel pin is out and all plugs are properly plugged in etc. If it starts and then locks do not try to restart it, there's a timing issue so you need to remove the covers and see what's happened. If it starts but whines like a supercharger you've over-tensioned it. Assuming it started fine and is running well, let it warm up with the coolant cap off to purge the system of air...ok, this impossible with a 1.6TDCi in cool temps lol. But check for leaks and any odd noises. I had to take mine for a run to get it warm enough as it just never gets there at idle otherwise. Make sure to take some coolant with you as it'll need topping up when the thermostat opens at around 83c. Now refit the wheel arch liner, undertray, engine cover and wheel. Write the date and mileage of the belt change in your service book. The Dayco kit also came with a sticker to fill in and place near the belt in the engine bay to let future owners know of the change if the service book gets lost. And finally, take it for a test drive!
  8. 4 points
    Hi guys! Well it's been a while and some things have changed, not a lot but enough to keep me busy Haha! I've had the rear axle changed, so the drums are no more and it no e has the rear discs and calipers on the back, Triple R Composites front splitter I've not got illuminated sill plates! And boy do I love them! Halos for the front fogs I have managed to get my hands on some ST250 front calipers & discs, I've purchase 2x splash guards, flexi hoses and some new pads for them and they are all ready to go for Friday :D Sunstrip fitted :D And finally some side decals :D Here she Is! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  9. 4 points
    Phil21185

    Help! Overflow Hose Failure.

    I honestly would contact Ford before doing anything else as they may not honour any warranty or goodwill if the car has been repaired by someone else. I remember a thread not so long ago on here and I think it was for the same thing. Guy limped or towed it to an independent round the corner who did some work but did not fully solve the problem and Ford refused to cover the full repair due to this. Result was a £4k bill that the owner had to shoulder. It's on here somewhere...
  10. 4 points
    Bannko

    Auto Lock on 2016 model

    So HOW TO ENABLE AUTOLOCK on Focus MK3 and MK3.5 1. Buy ELM327 diagnostic cable, plenty of them on ebay. As a search string type this: ELM Forscan https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.XELM+Forscan.TRS0&_nkw=ELM+Forscan&_sacat=0 2. Download and install laterst version of software Focccus: http://ford.xtlt.ru/FoCCCus/ (current one is: FoCCCus_0.8.6.zip) 3. Download and install latest version of software Forscan: http://forscan.org/download.html (current one is: 2.3.11 beta for Windows) 4. Connect your laptop with ELM cable. 5. Start Focccus and on the initial TAB click READ FROM BCM - the car begins to blink like a christmas tree with warnings, it is hard to watch but ingnore it, lol 5b. At this point click another button "Save to file" to create a backup file and save it to your computer. Just in case. 6. Find line # 32 /- "Automatic locking by speed" and set new value to "Automatic locking" 7. Click WRITE TO BCM - and again be patient :) Using FOcccus will always cause that few DTC errors stays in the car. So: 8. Start program Forscan and click on the DTC icon. 9. Click small button to read DTC codes and after scan click another button to reset DTC codes. 10. Your car should be then clean from errors and happy driving with autlock :)
  11. 4 points
    Phil21185

    fuming ...

    I'm afraid I can't help with whether the cam sensor is actually faulty but I would think that would end up with quite a lumpy engine through the rev range? My issue would be that 1) they tried to lie to you about the lights being there 2) they have obviously caused the problem that has caused the lights to be there and 3) if they code read it (which they usually don't do without charging you) then they should have told you there was a cam sensor problem before carrying out the work you asked them to do. I would argue that they have caused the problem as there were no emls on before taking it in. I would demand a reduction in the work they have done as it obviously hasn't been carried out professionally and I would also argue that if indeed there is a further problem then they should rectify at their cost. In fact I would go so far as to insist the work is carried out at another garage and they pay for it, as they are obviously not professional and also can't be trusted since they lied to you. If they refuse, threaten with trading standards.
  12. 4 points
    geepee

    Things I Don't Like

    My wife tooting the horn outside our house so I will go out and reverse her car into a gap the space shuttle could land on......people who deliberately park there motor over the white line taking up 2 spaces for their 'precious' 😂 In fact wen u get to my age pretty much everything annoys u 😤
  13. 4 points
    Phil21185

    Phil's Build Thread

    Well they weren't due to turn up til late October but my illuminated scuff plates have arrived! They look great and I can't wait to fit them! Of course I'll have a full write up with pics and links when I do... =] New toys!
  14. 4 points
    JW1982

    mk2 clocks change.

    On the Focus MK2/MK2.5 the instrument cluster is part of the PATS immobilizer system. The PATS immobilizer system is integrated into the instrument cluster and the PCM. The Transponder serial numbers of the PATS keys are stored on the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster is paired/synchronized with the PCM. When the instrument cluster is changed the Transponder serial numbers are no longer a match and the instrument cluster is no longer paired/synchronized with the PCM. as a result of this the car will be immobilized. To solve this the PATS keys need to be programmed into the new instrument cluster and the new instrument cluster needs to be paired/synchronized with the PCM. This can be done with a suitible Ford specific diagnostic system that has the ability to reprogram the Ford CODED PATS system. Next to this the new instrument cluster also needs to be configured correctly to match the settings/options of the car.
  15. 3 points
    Luke4efc

    Number plate bulbs

    Nah it'll be reet lad.
  16. 3 points
    Well, really, you should be looking under the bonnet at least once a week or before any motorway journey. Most of us don't but I think that those who never report problems with their cars here on FFOC are guys who know their way around an engine and know that regular checks are very important. It's not paranoia mate, it's ensuring that little problems are nipped in the bud and don't develop into serious problems!
  17. 3 points
    Stoney871

    Things I Do Like

    The thing I am deeply liking right now is that my new ST3 has now arrived in Dagenham from Saarlouis plant having been born on the 26th September. Should be at my dealership later this week and after the PDI should be ready to collect early next week. Now just have to rip out all the mods and get them ready to swap over. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
  18. 3 points
    Jonro2009

    Headlights

    It’s not just Autobeam LEDs, it’s pretty much all after market LED bulbs. The ones used in OEM setups are much better but still have the same problems on a smaller scale. The throw of the light is poor, you could spit further to be honest. I wouldn’t even consider them as an option. Aftermarket HIDs are by far the most superior upgrade, sadly they are not road legal though despite what anyone says. The HID bulbs used in OEM headlights aren’t strictly road legal, they are only legal/type approved when fitted in conjunction with the correct housing, self levellers and washers (unless they are lower than a certain lumen and then they don’t need washers). And as @zain611 correctly says, the higher the temperature in Kelvin the lower the ‘useable’ light is on the road. Those 8000K bulbs on the Corsa’s you see at Maccie D’s not only look ridiculous but they are dangerous too. My Xtreme Vision bulbs have been in for 18months now and are still going strong, they’ve lasted longer than my first marriage in fact [emoji23] [emoji23] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  19. 3 points
    Lewiswain

    the beginning

    lots more to come
  20. 3 points
    1979Damian

    Kpgs Mk3 Focus Titanium

    I bet it's got a lovely "beige" interior that uses that special fabric used in seating for "older" folk to prevent staining
  21. 3 points
    Stoney871

    Speedo keeps dropping to 0

    Aye, the speed sensor can be a pig to get out. Tbh you're best off getting it done in a garage, they sometimes snap on removal and better them paying to fix a f*** up than you. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
  22. 3 points
    Phil21185

    Help! Overflow Hose Failure.

    I hope so, for his sake!
  23. 3 points
    iantt

    fuming ...

    they have damaged the sensor doing the timing belt.
  24. 3 points
    stef123

    1.0 ecoboost compression test

    The time would be better put towards loosening the mounting bolts for the engine lol.
  25. 3 points
    I believe it is better to ask someone like @Stoney871 or @alexp999 very nicely if they would please move it, otherwise we end up with the same question posted all over the place. As for advising TF, yeah, if you're hankering for a large serving of sarcasm, undue scorn and immaturity - my personal experience of TF anyway...
  26. 3 points
    Phil21185

    Phil's Build Thread

    Hehe toys are fitted and looking pretty tasty if I do say so myself. Teasers for now, write up later! Bear in mind my whole car needs a clean, inside and out!
  27. 3 points
    dtulip8

    Buying a mk2 1.6. Thoughts?

    Just thought I'd post a quick update- I've brought one! A 2006 Zetec Climate with 57k on the clock. Very happy with it!
  28. 3 points
    Phil21185

    Photo Location Game

    I got so excited seeing that blue star in the thread listings... Since you can see a shell logo under the ns wing mirror, I would say, yes it is. I hope you can stop pacing your living room, having sleepless nights and being unproductive at work now that you know that that is definitely a shell garage! See if you can follow it up with a picture of your car outside a train station!
  29. 3 points
    The car has still done 121,000 miles so it is reading the correct miles. Only if you were to replace every component of the car might you then be warranted to change the odometer but even then you're in a Ship of Theseus scenario with no clear cut outcome! I'd just note the 'new' engine as part of your service history but not make claim to what mileage it had done in just the same way you cannot vouch for any aspect of how the engine has been treated and serviced in the past. On the mileage front in particular it is quite remarkable how engines removed from cars can seemingly drop a few 10's of thousands of miles in the process as evidenced by checks of MOT history having asked sellers for the registration (to check suitability of fitment).
  30. 3 points
    I'm going for black glitter background with teal for the ford bit I can't wait for them to arrive
  31. 3 points
    biff55

    Missing FSH Dealer issues

    i've used my local halfords autocentre several times and have been completely satisfied with the customer service and workmanship , and as their website states , they are able to perform services to the exact manufacturers spec. so im not the least surprised some rental & leasing company's have swerved ford altogether and got better deals or better service from other independent vehicle repair businesses. well if they can do that so easily , why has the dealership discussed in this thread not bothered to provide service history after 4 months and threat of legal action ?? the mind boggles really. my only conclusion is that there is no history to provide, it doesnt exist or never happened , and the car was sold under false pretenses , and now theyre stalling as they are about to get caught out..
  32. 3 points
    Phil21185

    Things I Do Like

    I also like the post-food-shopping glow of a full fridge! The empty bank account however...not so much.
  33. 3 points
    JW1982

    Any updates for SYNC 3 yet?

    These are 2 different things. Map updates and system software updates. Currently there are no new maps for SYNC 3. The SYNC 3 map data that is currently factory installed is outdated. It uses a 2014 base map. There are a lot of complaints about this subject. in some countries some people even received a partial refund because of non conformity and Ford was not able to solve it within reasonable time. Based on several sources Ford is currently developing the new map data and a way to distribute the update. Official Ford communication stated that the update should be available within a dew months and that it needs to be installed from USB. Whether this update can be installed by the owner from a USB drive or only can be installed by a Ford dealer is still unknown. Some official sources say that the map updates will be free of charge for the first 7 Years. However this is not officially confirmed and I do not know if this applies to all countries or only certain countries. After the SYNC 3 system was introduced there were several ssytem software updates. Software version 3.0 is currently the latest available version. This version can be downloaded from the following website: http://ffclub.ru/topic/418797/jump_270/?pid=18493256#entry18493256 You can use Google Translate to translate the Russian text to English. The update can be installed from a USB drive. After this update the SYNC 3 system works a lot smoother than before.
  34. 3 points
    MACH_Chris

    Zetec S Logo

    After a little bit of measuring and making things, here's the fruits of my labour. Why buy it when you can make it...
  35. 3 points
    Phil21185

    Parking Problems

    Maybe that happened because the Audi driver was racing the kid on the bike, who is now saying "u mad bro?"
  36. 3 points
    Phil21185

    "usa Style" Side Lights.

    The NecroPoster strikes again!!! Mwahahahahaaaaaaa!!!😨😨😨😨 Actually @DJ_Andy_M is still pretty active here so you might get lucky with an answer!
  37. 3 points
    Turvey

    I Met Ed China Today.....

    ......he's let himself go a bit since he left Wheeler Dealers!!!
  38. 3 points
    Phil21185

    Things I Do Like

    Aww. That poor skip.
  39. 3 points
    iantt

    Things I Do Like

    2 vauxhalls i see.
  40. 3 points
    If you can't cure the water leak may I suggest getting a gold fish
  41. 2 points
    MJNewton

    1.0 ecoboost engine question

    It's benzin (German for petrol as Ian said), not benzene.
  42. 2 points
    iantt

    Oil service required message

    Ign on, press and hold brake and accelerator pedals down and wait till message changes
  43. 2 points
    marantz

    2017 Mondeo Titanium Xpack

    Thanks for more info,a write up would be great.Ill have to start removing trims and look for the sync cable.Thanks to everyone of yous who took the time to help me.
  44. 2 points
    MJNewton

    Photo needed

    ...and given the retail price is something like at least £40 I'd seriously consider asking for the cash instead and using it to buy a spare steel wheel (175/65R14 is a commonly fitted size) and jack as this is far more useful in my view.
  45. 2 points
    Zico

    Things I Don't Like

    Worth reporting them to the local trading standards dept. who should follow up on it.
  46. 2 points
    JW1982

    Sat nav update help

    Be aware that many satnav SD-cards offered on Ebay are not genuine. There are a lot of Chinese clones that are advertised as original. It is a known fact that some of the cloned cards work better than others. Some do not work properly at all.
  47. 2 points
    Jonro2009

    Things I Don't Like

    Still better than a Mac though! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  48. 2 points
    isetta

    Injector sound

    have a look at this pic. The two nuts are number 12 on the picture. There are two nuts on each injector. They are tall nuts that you put a hexangonal bit in the top of to do up This picture shows what the top of them look like at least that is what they were like on my 1.6tdci twin cam 16 vallve But don't overdo it. and there is no guarantee it will stop the leak, but it did stop it on all four of mine at different times
  49. 2 points
    biff55

    RS Owners check this out :/

    "Houston , we have a problem......." :-D and its a whopper of a problem considering the tiny production run of the RS. in relation to over 100 reported engine failures looks like its mainly usa owners on that action group individual dealers should not be allowed to decide for themselves what action to take for each car that comes in , a clear plan of action should be issued from ford HQ. big question is do UK RS's get their engines from the usa ? or do all RS engines come from Germany ?
  50. 2 points
    iantt

    Automatic Start/start

    Ron, if you want to have a go at reseting battery monitoring, just do as follows Ign on for 10 secs, press rear foglighr switch 5 times, press hazzard switch 3 times, wait 10 secs. Battery light flashes. Ign off use car, and see if thst fixes