Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 10/16/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    As promised, here's the carnage! What have I done? Lol 🙈
  2. 4 points
    Hi guys! Well it's been a while and some things have changed, not a lot but enough to keep me busy Haha! I've had the rear axle changed, so the drums are no more and it no e has the rear discs and calipers on the back, Triple R Composites front splitter I've not got illuminated sill plates! And boy do I love them! Halos for the front fogs I have managed to get my hands on some ST250 front calipers & discs, I've purchase 2x splash guards, flexi hoses and some new pads for them and they are all ready to go for Friday :D Sunstrip fitted :D And finally some side decals :D Here she Is! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  3. 4 points

    Things I Do Like

    The thing I am deeply liking right now is that my new ST3 has now arrived in Dagenham from Saarlouis plant having been born on the 26th September. Should be at my dealership later this week and after the PDI should be ready to collect early next week. Now just have to rip out all the mods and get them ready to swap over. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
  4. 4 points
    I drive my 125 HP 1.0 ECOboost for over 3 Years now and I am still quite impressed. Power, Torque and engine character are very impressive for such a small engine. In my opinion the 1.0 ECOboost is a much nicer engine as the old 1.6 TI-VCT it replaced. I regularly drive the 1.6 ECOboost of my parents which I converted from 150 HP to 182 HP using the original software. Despite the 1.6 ECOboost is also a nice engine I actually prefer my 1.0 ECOboost. In my opinion the 1.0 ECOboost is a lot more responsive. in the last 3 Years my average fuel consumption is 50 MPG on 98 octane (RON) fuel. I do not care about fuel consumption at all so if I did the MPG could probably even be better. On long trips I easily get 60 MPG. Most coolant system problems of the 1.0 ECOboost are caused by the higher coolant temperature. In relation to the older naturally aspirated petrol engines the direct injected, turbocharged 1.0 and 1.6 ECOboost petrol engines have a considerably higher engine and coolant temperature. This causes some plastic and vulcanised rubber materials that are used for some coolant system parts to deteriorate prematurely. Examples of this are the degas hose, coolant reservoir, coolant reservoir cap, etc. The Focus MK3/MK3.5 for example uses the exact same coolant reservoir as the earlier C-max MK1/Focus MK2. This type of reservoir was introduced in 2003 on the C-max MK1 and has been used for many engine types without any problems. The ECOboost engines are the only ones which suffers from premature coolant reservoir failures on a large scale. On the ECOboost engines the plastic material of the coolant reservoir can develop (micro)cracks and discoloration which in the end causes the reservoir to burst. Another point of concern is the coolant itself. The higher coolant temperature causes the coolant to crystallize. This causes crystal deposits to attach inside the coolant system parts. As a result of this for example the coolant reservoir cap can seize solid onto the reservoir. on the long term the deposits inside the cooling system can eventually cause blockages of the coolant system. Next to this the Earlier versions of the 1.0 ECOboost (build approximately before 2015) suffer from a design fault. These early versions only have a coolant temperature sensor that is mounted inside the coolant system and measures the coolant temperature. This sensor is used by the PCM to monitor the coolant temperature and control the temperature gauge and the temperature warning light. In case of a coolant leak the coolant leaks away pretty quick. When this happens the coolant temperature measures air instead of coolant. Air does not conduct the temperature very well. Because of this the PCM does not detect overheating of the engine at all or much too late. In this case when the driver notices the activated temperature warning light it is usually too late already. Serious engine damage as a result of overheating can occur without the driver even noticing. On later versions Ford solved this problem by installing an additional cylinder head temperature sensor. A little bit of coolant loss is quite normal for these engines. The waterpump of the 1.0 and 1.6 ECOboost has a seal that is lubricated and cooled by coolant. This type of seal is known to leak a tiny bit of coolant (especially when new and the seal has not yet fully bedded in). Because of this these water pumps do all have small signs of coolant loss. In the past many perfectly fine water pumps were changed because of these small coolant signs. The 1.0 ECOboost is a very popular engine. In some countries 2/3 of all Focus MK3/MK3.5 wehicles that were sold are equipped with the 1.0 ECOboost. There are a significant number of examples of engine damage caused by a coolant related problem. However compared to the sales figures of the 1.0 ECOboost the percentage of vehicles with these problems is very, very low. Generally only people with these problems will write about it on the internet. The many thousands of satisfied people withoput any problems do not. Most engine damage problems occur on vehicles that still have the old degas hose that is affected by the recall or cracked coolant reservoirs. Both can avoided pretty easy by regular inspections. If a vehicle still has the affected degas hose it should be replaced as soon as possible. By inspecting the coolant reservoir regularly any signs of discoloration or microcracks will be noticed. Discoloration and microcracks are early signs of the coolant reservoir deteriorating. If these symptoms are noticed the coolant reservoir should be replaced. In case of any doubts replacing the parts is no bad idea. These are all pretty inexpensive parts that can prevent a lot of problems. Unfortunately many Ford dealers these days do not have a clue about these problems. Most do not even inspect the coolant system during service and will not notice a deteriorating coolant reservoir. When I bought my car in 2014 I already replaced the degas hose (not a recall yet at that time). Last Year the coolant reservoir developed microcracks and discoloration. This made me decide to perform the following actions: * Replace the coolant reservoir. * Replace the coolant reservoir cap. * Replace the coolant. * Install the additional electric coolant pump (on vehicles produced before 05-05-2014 only present on vehicles with a factory fit towbar). After all parts were replaced I vacuum bled the coolant system and reprogrammed the PCM (necessary for the additional electric coolant pump). Luckily I have the skills/knowledge and tools to do this myself. As a precaution I am currently developing a low coolant warning system which consist of a coolant level sensor and a CANbus module that communicates directly to the instrument cluster. This way I will get a warning message on the instrument cluster display if the coolant level in the reservoir drops.
  5. 3 points

    ST Line alloys

    Think the standard size are 17” wheels. 18” are upgrades. My ST Line has the 18” wheels but are black 5 spoke . Easy to keep clean and polish up nicely.
  6. 3 points
    The OEM Focus MK3 HID (Xenon) headlights are actually Bi-Xenon headlights. The projectors are equipped with an electric actuator that controls a shutter that changes the light image of the projector. Because of this the HID lights have a higher light output when the High Beam is switched on. Next to the Bi-Xenon projectors the OEM HID lights do also have an additional halogen bulb. The purpose of this bulb is to use the high Beam for flashing. During day when the HID lights are switched off the HID lights are not suitible for flashing. It simply takes too much time before the HID lights obtain their full intensity. This makes them useless for flashing. As a solution for this most manufacturers use an additional halogen bulb next to the Bi-Xenon projectors.
  7. 3 points

    Number plate bulbs

    Nah it'll be reet lad.
  8. 3 points
    Well, really, you should be looking under the bonnet at least once a week or before any motorway journey. Most of us don't but I think that those who never report problems with their cars here on FFOC are guys who know their way around an engine and know that regular checks are very important. It's not paranoia mate, it's ensuring that little problems are nipped in the bud and don't develop into serious problems!
  9. 2 points


    Hello everybody! My name is Nikola and I'm 20 years old. I'm owner of Ford Focus mk2. I bought Focus last year, because i like his color mostly. This is my project car and daily drive. I found a lot and useful informations about Focus on your forum. We became a Ford family since 2010 when my dad bought Ford Mondeo mk3.
  10. 2 points

    Rain Sensor Calibration

    Pilkington is the OE manufacturer I think, my Focus screen was identical through autoglass even including the heat reflective layer, identical IR markings and identical hatchings around the mirror as well. I did have a new screen on a previous car which was different, can't remember the brand name now but it was obviously inferior...the hatchings weren't as good and the rear view mirror mount fell off the first time I tried to adjust it! The windscreen tech managed to break my rain sensor when fitting the screen on the Focus. Also fitted the gel pad upside down. New gel pad was fitted but no change. They replaced the sensor with a genuine Ford one (no cost to me) which cured the issue.
  11. 2 points

    Ford Fair 2018

    Hey guys I just got an email announcing next years date Get this in your diaries Sent from my iPhone
  12. 2 points

    Rain Sensor Calibration

    No Calibration, sounds like the sensor has been refitted with the same gelpad. Ideally a new gelpad is required when refitting sensor. And obviously a clean screen also before fitting it
  13. 2 points
    Hi, I had a look this morning after loading the extended license to activate DDS. Not quite as straight forward as I thought it was but have completed it successfully Opening Forscan and navigating to config and programming > ABS. I went first to (as Built format) and saved the file. Back then to ABS module initialization. On opening this there was nothing there apart from relearn data etc. Bit confused now. Back to config and programming this time I opened IPC Central config main. Here I found ‘Tire pressure monitoring system’, ‘without monitoring system’. I highlighted this and double clicked. This opened an option box, clicked on DDS and the tick. Clicked on the Write box and the write backup and just followed the onscreen instructions, had a bit of flashing and ended up with ABS, traction control and tyre inflation warnings. I went back into ABS module Initialization and ran the relearn program. Warnings all gone just had to reset the DDS in the car menu. All now good. I have attached a few screen shots as a guide. The first two pictures are the before and after on the car menu. I would like to thank 540itouring for his help in this.
  14. 2 points

    Hi new member

    Here she is
  15. 2 points

    Focus 1.6tdci engine help

    oh just mind to put the plug back in, there is about 100ml of oil in the bottom of the sump, taking it off without being careful or not putting the plug back in will make a mess, an probably all down your neck and face for good measure!
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points

    Focus 1.6tdci engine help

    yes I did mean fuel filter at 120k, not oil filter. I did have a windscreen replacement too but that was replaced due to damage from an external cause so wasn't a service item or a fault as such. However, before it got damaged, there were some lines in the quickclear windscreen that had stopped working leave 3 or 4 strips about an inch wide which did not clear, it did not go like that in one day, it had got progressively worse. I think it was about 6-7 years old then. All in all I was very pleased with it. I did keep a list of expenditure. I reckon over 145k miles it cost me max 18p per mile including fuel / parts / depreciation (price I paid for car £9699 less what I sold it for £1250) Might have another go at getting a piece of hose down dipstick tube, might try chamfer on end of hose to see if it sill will go further. I am wondering if there is a slight ledge where dipstick tube fits in to engine block and it's just getting caught on it, as oppose to being too wide to go further. Sump looks easy to get off. Haynes manual says the front part of exhaust needs removing to do it but it looks to me like I could undo the sump and then swivel it around 90 degrees or so and then drop down. But until it is tried I can't be sure. (This is mk6.5 fiesta, it might differ from focus in how tight or otherwise the clearence is)
  18. 2 points

    Mk7 Fezza Zetec S

    I haven't updated this in a while due to spending quite a bit of time away from home recently. So last weekend I decided to get stuck into the biggest task I've had so far, swapping out the old audio system for my new navigation system and DAB headunit. Ford said it couldn't be done, it's impossible. Well what do Ford know? Clearly not enough... After acquiring all the necessary components for the job, all bought from my local Ford dealers bar the head and nav unit, I set about putting it all together. Not that big of a job hardest part of it was removing all the fiddly clips from interior trim and routing necessary cables. The end result looks good! Fully functioning Sat nav and DAB radio! Next step is to wire up the SYNC unit... I know there are various guides on the net and this forum about installing DAB into a MK7 Fiesta but if anyone wants to know how to install DAB or NAV into their Fiesta I'll be more than happy to share to create a little guide to how it's done.
  19. 2 points

    Swap to DAB 6CD unit

    I retrofitted the Sony 6-CD DAB radio combined with the Sound & Connect system (Bluetooth/Voicecontrol with USB, Bluetooth Audio and Ipod support) to my previous Focus MK2. The Premium Sony 6-CD DAB radio is a really nice radio. This the best sounding OEM Ford radio that was available in the Focus MK2.5. The sound quality is excellent (In combination with the Premium Sony speakers even a bit better). However the Sony radio's have 2 known problems. The 1st problem is that Sony Radio's have the same (Philips) amplifier IC as the 6000CD. This type of amplifier IC is known to cause problems relatively often. No speaker output on 1 or more speaker channels or an internal short circuit which causes 12 Volt battery power to ruin the speakers are just 2 examples. The 2nd problem is the 6-CD changer mechanism. This mechanism is known to be a weak parts that often causes problems. The mechanism is very compact, pretty complex and contains some small plastic parts. These plastic parts are known to break wich causes the mechanism to jam completely. CD-changer problems can be prevented by only loading 5 CD's and leaving the top CD empty. In the past I repaired a lot of these Sony radio's by replacing the amplifier IC or by replacing the broken plastic parts of the 6-CD changer mechanism with custom made fiberglass parts. Because of the 6-CD changer mechanism problems the single CD version is more reliable in my opinion. If combined with the Sound & Connect system my experience is that the CD player functionality will barely be used. Most people who have the Sound & Connect system use the USB functionality instead.
  20. 2 points

    Focus 1.6tdci engine help

    First oil filter swap was 120k, that was only because car kept cutting out (on left hand turns strangely) and fault code said low fuel pressure. I only changed the air filter at same time because it looked like it was about to start breaking up and I thought it being sucked into the intake would be undesirable. It did not look too dirty. Car never used in dusty type conditions, but I only ever put cheap diesel in, standard Asda diesel, my brother does the same now. I did suggest sucking the oil out to him. I did try putting some pipe down the dipstick tube for him but I could not get it down into the sump, it was getting stuck at bottom of the tube. We did not make all that much effort as at that time we did not have a suitable pump to suck the oil up anyway, I was just seeing how easy it might be to try to get him interested in the idea. It would be a shame for him to wreck it through neglect after I had nurtured it to 146k (well I know it does not sound like I really nurtured it). Other things done on car. Front brake pads changed at about 75k and 150k. Discs not changed, they are still good. I took rear drums off at about 140k to check inside, brake shoes were about half worn so left as is. Rear silencer changed at about 4-5 years old - that was very disappointing, the pipe just ahead of it had a small hole in and the silencer was splitting open along whole length. Many tyres - front last about 25k, rear about 50k. A few light bulbs. That's about it. When I bought the car it was 5 months old and had Guernsey plates on and had been a hire car there I believe. It was like brand new, it could have passed as brand new other than there was no new car smell
  21. 2 points

    Focus 1.6 2007/08 Auto HELP TO BUY

    Breakdown cover is a necessity.
  22. 2 points
    Yes, I found the indentation on the rear right of the plastic cover With screwdriver, lock restored back to normal Thanks
  23. 2 points

    Different lbs/ft Torque!

    Since the introduction of the 1.0 ECOboost in 2012 all 125 HP versions have 170 Nm (125 ft lbs) of torque between 1500 and 4500 RPM during normal operation and 200 Nm (147 ft lbs) of torque in overboost. There is no difference in torque output between the MK3 and MK3.5. I only use RON 98 for over 10 Years now. It makes the engine run a bit smoother while the fuel consumpion is slightly lower. In the end the running costs will not be much different between RON 95 and RON 98 fuel. However I my opinion a modern turbocharged petrol engine benefits more from higher octane fuel than the old naturally aspirated petrol engines.
  24. 2 points

    Different lbs/ft Torque!

    Actually both are true. The 125 HP version of the 1.0 ECOboost has 170 Nm (125 ft lbs) of torque between 1500 and 4500 RPM during normal operation and 200 Nm (147 ft lbs) of torque in overboost. The overboost function is available for a maximum of 30 seconds. After releasing the throttle pedal (for example when shifting gears) the overboost function will be available again. The 100 HP version only has 170 Nm (125 ft lbs) between 1500 and 4500 RPM of torque and no overboost function. Note that the 1.6 Zetec S(E) (focus MK1) only has 145 Nm (107 ft lbs) of torque at 4000 RPM and the 1.6 Duratec (Focus MK2) only has 150 Nm (110 ft lbs) of torque at 4000 RPM. Note that the listed power and torque output of the 1.0 ECOboost is based on RON 95 fuel. My experience is that the usage of high octane fuel seriously improves the power and torque output of the 1.0 ECOboost. I only use RON 98 fuel or if available even higher ocatane fuel. In the past my 125 HP 1.0 ECOboost Focus MK3 turned out to be even quicker than a 2.0 Duratec Focus MK2.5.
  25. 2 points
    you see a little indentation on both images of the black plastic/rubber cover. force a small flat bladed screwdriver in and you can lever the mechanism to release
  26. 2 points

    Focus 1.6tdci engine help

    Yeah that's right as far as I'm aware. Though with your mk2.5 being a 90ps model you should avoid the turbo issues anyway, it's more of a 110 problem.
  27. 2 points

    Number plate bulbs

    A traditional style bulb gets hot because you know how a fuse works - if too much power flows through it then it heats up to red hot and then gets even hotter and melts thus disconnecting the power (all very quickly). The filament in a light bulb is acting a bit like a fuse wire in a kind of short circuit created by putting the bulb between positive and negative connections. The filament heats up to red hot and further to white hot but it does not melt because the gasses inside the glass bulb stop it going that far. (if you broke the glass on a bulb and then used it, the filament would burn out in the blink of an eye just like a thin fuse wire). The glass bulb gets hot because of the heat coming from the white hot filament within it.
  28. 2 points
    Shows what a poor dealer you used. Don't know what's warranty and what isn't. I've fitted modified clutch packs and seals under warranty and outside the normal 3 yr warranty.
  29. 2 points
    OK the garage have come back to me... with good news. So cool, call it me overthinking. The guy I dropped the car into is who said it was software only. I just got called and told that yes it does need a clutch and it's covered under the warranty. I'm picking the car back up today and they'll call me back to book in when the clutch arrives. So OK good news all round. Hurrahs.
  30. 2 points

    Mk2 Focus Front Break discs Size

    I've got Brembo discs currently and they've been spot on, quite a few people on here have used Mintex with success, it seems that they are probably the best option if you're looking for maximum "bang for your buck".
  31. 2 points

    Sat Nav Maps

    Because they're Ford
  32. 2 points

    Focus 1.6tdci engine help

    They changed for the 8v 115ps engine in the mk3, 2011 onwards.
  33. 2 points

    Ford focus mk2 with mk3 rs wheels.

    I know it's not what you're looking for but this is my Mark 2.5 with RS replica wheels, these are 18 inch wheels and not 19s as the genuine ones are.
  34. 2 points
    After 5 years of owning 2 of the new (old?) Fiestas, I bid a fond farewell to the 3 cylinder thrum. Having test driven the new-shape Fiesta I decided that the addition of the 6th gear (the car just felt too small moving into 6th! Elbows couldn't take it!) and the potential 3-month delay on new cars with the 140 engine, I've decided to go for a 2016 Focus ST-Line 1.5L 150PS instead, opting for the bigger space and marginally more power. Seriously considered an ST but for the ~6-8k miles I do a year I couldn't justify the costs. Thanks for your help over the years helping me decide the specs of my Fiestas, mechanically they've been a tank, not so much regarding the bodywork, of which the same issues appear to be there in the mk8 Fiesta :( Still unsure of my new cars colour (Iceburg Blue) but it has a ton of tech for a price I couldn't find anywhere else. Hoping I don't get the horriblely common rattle issue with the engine.. Specs include: Blindspot Detection Park Assist (So cool!) Sat Nav / DAB Front / Rear Parking Sensors Rear Parking Camera Rear Privacy Glass Auto folding mirrors Keyless Start (Never understood why they'd do keyless start without keyless entry, seems pointless but there you go!) Adaptive Cruise Control Active City Stop Lane Assist (keeps you in your lane? What do I actually need to do?) Pick it up Friday :D Only thing I'm missing is the EATC that I've been used to with the past 2 Fiestas..
  35. 2 points

    Number plate bulbs

    Sort of correct. The oils on your fingers create a hot spot on the glass.
  36. 2 points
    gone from feeling like a n/a 1600 to a n/a 2litre engine. thats the easiest way to describe. mate in a fiesta st150 2litre mk6 couldnt out accelerate me fuel usage is the same as before remap, so essentially more or less , only the full throttle map has changed so only extra fuel if you thrash it everywhere.
  37. 2 points
    Well yeah, strap 125 horses onto a vehicle the size and weight of a tennis shoe, it ain't gonna be slow :) I seem to remember funny things happening when Hayabusa engines were put in Smart cars... Sounds like a Star Wars pod racer at 2:08 though!
  38. 2 points

    Mk2 Focus Front Break discs Size

    Brembo disc and pads on my 2010 2.0. think I paid £100 approx from eurocarparts Inc discount.. they r very good. I agree avoid cheap parts, 1.4, 1.6 & 1.8 are 278mm 2.0 is 300mm
  39. 2 points
    Hi, A number of our schemes offer discounts for parking sensors and the fitment of a HD dash cam. Regards, Dan.
  40. 2 points

    Mk3 Focus Airbag Replacement/Reset

    After an airbag deployment the crash flag data of the RCM (Restraints Control module) needs to be reset. This can be done with the Forscan software. apart from the bodywork damage you need at least a new steering wheel airbag, passenger airbag, seatbelt pretensioners and a new dashboard shell if the airbags are deployed. New parts cost a fortune from Ford. Used parts are quite rare. A relative low amount of available scrap cars do have the airbags still intact. The demand for these parts (especially for dashboard shells) is pretty big which results in relative high prices. A decent condition Focus MK3 dashboard shell with airbags and seatbelt pretensioners easily sells for a €1000,-. Do you intend to drive the car yourself after repair or to sell it on?
  41. 2 points

    Mk3 Focus Airbag Replacement/Reset

    no idea. some airbag modules you can reset , and would imagine forscan would do it. check on the forscan main page.
  42. 2 points
    Haha, Zetec is a trim level though, couldn't be sure you meant Zetec engine...you can even buy diesel engines with Zetec trim... I'd say I'm more Brian from New Tricks than Sherlock. Back on topic...I've done plenty of oil changes with various makes but it does depend on the engine as to what I'd chose. As I said above, the old Zetec engines aren't fussy at all, they'll take anything really but I would stick to a brand you've heard of...I'm pretty sure a lot are made in the same place and just rebranded anyway lol.
  43. 2 points
    You’ve got to think like a perverse underwriter so will Probably go up cause the repairs will cost more if you have a bump Sent from my iPhone
  44. 2 points
    @TomsFocus Sorry about the lack of CC...yes it is a 1.25 but I did say Zetec in my post so while it was good detective work you missed the bloodstained knife with the butlers fingerprints on it. I think I will do the plugs and yes they are spark plugs and as far as I am aware the Ford dealership didn't remove them although they did the change the brake fluid and they replaced the coolant within the specified time scales, because it was a chargeable item. The reasons I asked about make of oil and filter was because I thought the members that did their own servicing would have a favourite brand, I don't want to go cheap if cheap turns out to be nasty, the last time I changed the oil and filter was in 2008 on a Mondeo and I think I used Duckhams oil and a Champion filter. Sorry again for the lack of info and thanks for replying. Kind regards, James.
  45. 2 points


    It’s not just Autobeam LEDs, it’s pretty much all after market LED bulbs. The ones used in OEM setups are much better but still have the same problems on a smaller scale. The throw of the light is poor, you could spit further to be honest. I wouldn’t even consider them as an option. Aftermarket HIDs are by far the most superior upgrade, sadly they are not road legal though despite what anyone says. The HID bulbs used in OEM headlights aren’t strictly road legal, they are only legal/type approved when fitted in conjunction with the correct housing, self levellers and washers (unless they are lower than a certain lumen and then they don’t need washers). And as @zain611 correctly says, the higher the temperature in Kelvin the lower the ‘useable’ light is on the road. Those 8000K bulbs on the Corsa’s you see at Maccie D’s not only look ridiculous but they are dangerous too. My Xtreme Vision bulbs have been in for 18months now and are still going strong, they’ve lasted longer than my first marriage in fact [emoji23] [emoji23] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  46. 2 points
    Must be petrol as he said plugs maybe due at 37k, got to mean sparks as glowplugs should last a lot longer... No Ecoboosts in 2009 Fiesta so must be a Zetec engine which narrows it down to 1.25, 1.4 or 1.6... Only does low mileage so I'll guess at 1.25. On a serious note, the genuine oil and filters often aren't expensive and can be picked up on ebay or fordpartsuk for a good price if you wanted to stick with that. If not, I tend to go for Bosch filters and Shell oil. Realistically, those engines aren't fussy like ecoboosts or prone to carbon like the diesels so you can probably get away with the cheapest brands like Crossland filter and Triple QX oil, brand choice really is up to you and your budget. Be careful with changing the plugs if they've been in there since 2009!
  47. 2 points

    Ford focus sony 9 speaker sound system

    I’m not even sure you need a sub. Are you driving around the hud, chicken winging it with rap blasting? ive the Sony 9 speaker set up and plenty of base
  48. 1 point
    After successfully upgrading the Bluetooth module I have now updated the software to 5.9.
  49. 1 point

    Hissing sound under acceleration.

    I don't know of any problem in using Torx bits. It may be the bits you see are flakes of corrosion from the bolt, released by the pressure. One thing I would do, with all old screws, but especially Torx & Allen, is to use a small screwdriver or similar, to clean out the recess in the head. Torx & Allen have blunt driver bits, that will force muck or rust into the recess, and stop full tool engagement, with risk of damaging the head. Also, as with all driver bits, put plenty of pressure inwards, forcing the bit into the recess, to prevent "camout" due to worn screw heads or bits. Some lower quality bits may be too hard, and flakes could fracture off, you would see this damage on the bit, maybe with a magnifier. If so, discard the bit before it damages a screw head. --- Good news about the car, if the leak was losing enough air to be audible inside, it would have affected performance and economy, especially at higher powers.
  50. 1 point

    Mk3 springs / suspension

    The MK3/MK3.5 suspension is quite similar to the MK2/MK2.5 suspension. The MK3/MK3.5 suspension is basically an improved, futher development of the MK2/MK2.5 suspension. Technically the springs should fit. However the spring lenght and weight rating of the springs are different. This can seriously affect the ride height and suspension characteristics. Personally I would just search for the correct springs.