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coll247
hi all i have a 99 t plate focus what im wanting to know if anyone can help is does the engine shake a little when idling and it can be felt through the car checked engine mounts idle sensor been cleaned out what is the idle speed it says 700+30 in the haynes manual. but where on the rev counter does the needle go its about the first line under the 1000 mark. when you put your ear next to the fuel pressure reg its making a noise could they block up. car as been stood a bit its done 82600 at the min. its had a service at 80000 timing belt kit done bought the car about 2 months since any help would be appreciated thanx !!!!
eghamhigh
Hi - could it be the ignition coil? My car has been idling rough for a while - has 92K and is regularly serviced and it suddenly started juddering whilst I was driving it this week. Called the RAC as I am a member and he put in a new coil and end of problem. RAC also changed the spark plugs and HT leads but that was because it was part of a kit. 99. There are various tests you can do to check but you need to google them.
artscot79
[quote name='eghamhigh' date='22 March 2010 - 07:28 PM' timestamp='1269285509' post='73260']
Hi - could it be the ignition coil? My car has been idling rough for a while - has 92K and is regularly serviced and it suddenly started juddering whilst I was driving it this week. Called the RAC as I am a member and he put in a new coil and end of problem. RAC also changed the spark plugs and HT leads but that was because it was part of a kit. 99. There are various tests you can do to check but you need to google them.
[/quote]


the zetec isnt a smooth idler anyway so a tiny shake is normal depends how bad the shake is to be honest idle is correct 670-730rpm i know it seems low but thats what it is do the dash trick it will tell you what the exact apeed is youll find the how to on the sticky at the top of the forum check all pipes for splits especially the one at the rear of the engine under the throttle body see if its collapsing when the engines running also pcv valve could cause the shudder
coll247
[quote name='artscot79' date='22 March 2010 - 09:11 PM' timestamp='1269291672' post='73296']
the zetec isnt a smooth idler anyway so a tiny shake is normal depends how bad the shake is to be honest idle is correct 670-730rpm i know it seems low but thats what it is do the dash trick it will tell you what the exact apeed is youll find the how to on the sticky at the top of the forum check all pipes for splits especially the one at the rear of the engine under the throttle body see if its collapsing when the engines running also pcv valve could cause the shudder
[/quote]
coll247
you can tell its there you can see the engine shaking.my inlet manifold is at the front.their is no pipe round the back of the engine
artscot79
[quote name='coll247' date='23 March 2010 - 01:16 AM' timestamp='1269306407' post='73377']
you can tell its there you can see the engine shaking.my inlet manifold is at the front.their is no pipe round the back of the engine
[/quote]


then the pcv valve is at the front somewhere i think youre best bet is to check for leaks from any of the hoses you may be needing a new coil pack new leads and plugs
coll247
Hi. pcv valve is ok.checked it today. and no leaks. it dies more when i put the lights and heated rear window on. i will try the coil pack at the weekend. let you know how i get on.
artscot79
[quote name='coll247' date='23 March 2010 - 11:14 PM' timestamp='1269385451' post='73621']
Hi. pcv valve is ok.checked it today. and no leaks. it dies more when i put the lights and heated rear window on. i will try the coil pack at the weekend. let you know how i get on.
[/quote]


the rear window is a high current draw item so it will die momentarily or should i say the speed will drop slightly then pick up again to normal as the voltage regulator increases the load it could be an idle control valve that you have an issue with
wijcc
I would say try cleaning the idle control valve/EGR valve.
Check for whether your car needs the PCM update, there is a known bug which results in the eratic idle. Updating the ECU can solve this.
Also check your battery
coll247
[quote name='wijcc' date='24 March 2010 - 03:41 PM' timestamp='1269444714' post='73701']
I would say try cleaning the idle control valve/EGR valve.
Check for whether your car needs the PCM update, there is a known bug which results in the eratic idle. Updating the ECU can solve this.
Also check your battery
[/quote]
idle control valve is ok. it does not have a egr valve. battrey is ok too
coll247
[quote name='wijcc' date='24 March 2010 - 03:41 PM' timestamp='1269444714' post='73701']
I would say try cleaning the idle control valve/EGR valve.
Check for whether your car needs the PCM update, there is a known bug which results in the eratic idle. Updating the ECU can solve this.
Also check your battery
[/quote]
how much does the PCM update cost. and can it only be done a ford.
artscot79
[quote name='coll247' date='24 March 2010 - 08:39 PM' timestamp='1269462552' post='73749']
how much does the PCM update cost. and can it only be done a ford.
[/quote]


the pcm only applies if youre rpm at idle drop below 500 and cause the car to stall or whgen you slow down at a junction and the revs drop very low causing the car to stall in basics 80 quid for the diagnostic then another 150-200 for the pcm upgrade if you were effected you woul;d have had a recall youre revs are 700 or more so why would you need the pcm done you are idling at exactly what you should be you switch the rear heater on and it drops then picks up thats normal the more electrics yopu hgave on the more strain on the alternator trust me the pcm has npthing to do with it it had nowt to do with rough idle and was about cars idling so low they stalled alll the time the pcm raised there idle back up to 700 rpm

from bba reman....[b][font="Arial"][size="2"]Ford Focus 1999[/size][/font][/b][font="Arial"][size="2"]Problem: Engine sometimes stalls.[/size][/font]

[font="Arial"][size="2"]Solution: The PCM may have incorrect calibration parameters. Don't assume the vehicle calibration is the problem. Use a diagnostic scanner to perform a full engine diagnostic. If this doesn't resolve the problem, re-program the module. The calibration amendments are loaded onto Ford Dealer CD28a and will prevent the vehicle from stalling.[/size][/font]

coll247
[quote name='artscot79' date='24 March 2010 - 08:46 PM' timestamp='1269462987' post='73752']
the pcm only applies if youre rpm at idle drop below 500 and cause the car to stall or whgen you slow down at a junction and the revs drop very low causing the car to stall in basics 80 quid for the diagnostic then another 150-200 for the pcm upgrade if you were effected you woul;d have had a recall youre revs are 700 or more so why would you need the pcm done you are idling at exactly what you should be you switch the rear heater on and it drops then picks up thats normal the more electrics yopu hgave on the more strain on the alternator trust me the pcm has npthing to do with it it had nowt to do with rough idle and was about cars idling so low they stalled alll the time the pcm raised there idle back up to 700 rpm

from bba reman....[b][font="Arial"][size="2"]Ford Focus 1999[/size][/font][/b][font="Arial"][size="2"]Problem: Engine sometimes stalls.[/size][/font]

[font="Arial"][size="2"]Solution: The PCM may have incorrect calibration parameters. Don't assume the vehicle calibration is the problem. Use a diagnostic scanner to perform a full engine diagnostic. If this doesn't resolve the problem, re-program the module. The calibration amendments are loaded onto Ford Dealer CD28a and will prevent the vehicle from stalling.[/size][/font]
[/quote]The engine does,nt stall it idles ok. it just shudders like when you draw power from the battery.
coll247
could it be the battery has it says it should be a calcium one on the halfords website
coll247
the batterys charging as it should be
rob80
hi.i have a similar problem with my 16i zetec.been to see a mechanic today and told him the problem and he said to firstly clean the idle control valve and also something that is next to it(cant remember what its called)my focus is juddery and revs seem too low,the revs always drop down when im doin the window up.and also when i try to boot it it has like a delay in the power and will judder for a second before it gets going(which is really doin my head in)the mechanic also said something about the alternator not charging properly cuz the revs are too low.il let you know what happens ,im hopefully having it done on friday.
artscot79
[quote name='rob80' date='31 March 2010 - 09:11 PM' timestamp='1270065664' post='75287']
hi.i have a similar problem with my 16i zetec.been to see a mechanic today and told him the problem and he said to firstly clean the idle control valve and also something that is next to it(cant remember what its called)my focus is juddery and revs seem too low,the revs always drop down when im doin the window up.and also when i try to boot it it has like a delay in the power and will judder for a second before it gets going(which is really doin my head in)the mechanic also said something about the alternator not charging properly cuz the revs are too low.il let you know what happens ,im hopefully having it done on friday.
[/quote]


the revs drop when you do the window up[ becuse the motor uses a lot of power secondly it reduces the power to stop damage to the motor ands the focus is designed to idle at 730 +/-30 rpm so the alternator parts a load of rubbish mate if it wasnt charging right the vbattery would start to go flat i think you need a new mechanic i mean that in the honest sense of the word most garages have no idea the focus has smart charge and couldnt tell you what it does they dont even know its meant to haqve a silver calcium lead calcium battery the good ones do idle is controlled by the ecu not the idle control valve ifg the speed is below 690 rpm then it needs diagnosed with the computer otherwise the ecu is controlling the speed spend a few hundred trying to fix it replacing bits and still have the same issue take it to ford theyll likely check it and hand it back not trying to sound rude but im trying to save you from spending a fortune for nothing switch the rear heater on with it idling the revs will drop slightly and pick back up why its a high draw component it does it on every car the window switch is the same the motor draws a lot of power thats why it drops momentarily and picks back up as its meant to
rob80
when mine is idling it stays on the mark below the 1000rpm mark.i didnt know that this happened with the revs dropping and it being normal.i always pressumed there was a problem.maybe wont take it in on friday then??what do you reckon the jumpiness is when i put my foot down.it seems like its holding back for a few seconds before it gains speed.thanks for info mate.appreciate it
artscot79
[quote name='rob80' date='31 March 2010 - 09:32 PM' timestamp='1270066963' post='75299']
when mine is idling it stays on the mark below the 1000rpm mark.i didnt know that this happened with the revs dropping and it being normal.i always pressumed there was a problem.maybe wont take it in on friday then??what do you reckon the jumpiness is when i put my foot down.it seems like its holding back for a few seconds before it gains speed.thanks for info mate.appreciate it
[/quote]


that mark is spot on mate they go up in 250rpm stages so thats right the jumpiness could be a few things coil pack possibly as its a common thing to go it would be hard to say for certain ide advise having that part checked out as it could be pcv valve needing replaced or pcv hose collapsed it could be coil p[ack and leads but if i had to lay my bets ide say new leads coil pack and plugs the focus idles very low as normal and it doesnt do it smoothly most cars idle 850-900 rpm however the focus doeas it to keep the emissions low most new cars now idle the same or lower golf for example idles at 600rpm the dip is because the alternator is connected toa 7.5 amp fuse which makes it pulse the dip using buttons happens momentarily then the voltage regulatpor through the ecu tells the idle valve to open a bit more to compensate and the revs go back up easy way to tell is switch the rear heater on and listen the revs will drop then pick back up again as it should jumpiness sounds like its misfiring so coil pack and leads
rob80
cheers mate.will get that done asap.nice to know the revs are fine.(1 less worry off my mind)its good to have advice off someone who knows what they are on about.thanks
coll247
[quote name='rob80' date='31 March 2010 - 09:11 PM' timestamp='1270065664' post='75287']
hi.i have a similar problem with my 16i zetec.been to see a mechanic today and told him the problem and he said to firstly clean the idle control valve and also something that is next to it(cant remember what its called)my focus is juddery and revs seem too low,the revs always drop down when im doin the window up.and also when i try to boot it it has like a delay in the power and will judder for a second before it gets going(which is really doin my head in)the mechanic also said something about the alternator not charging properly cuz the revs are too low.il let you know what happens ,im hopefully having it done on friday.
[/quote]
thanx mate look forward to it hope its right afterwards
rob80
it felt different today driving the focus.probably because now i know the low revs is not a problem and is the norm.to be honest i havnt really noticed it as much(must be peace of mind.lol)one thing i was wondering though was if anyone has had the same problem as me with the dials.evrytime i start the car up all the dials(rev counter,speedo,temp and fuel gauge)go straight up to the max then drop back down and then go to where they should be.say if i started the car up 20 times it would normally do it 19 and wouldnt do it just the once.its not a major problem but things like that get to me so any help would be great.cheers
artscot79
[quote name='rob80' date='01 April 2010 - 06:29 PM' timestamp='1270142378' post='75518']
it felt different today driving the focus.probably because now i know the low revs is not a problem and is the norm.to be honest i havnt really noticed it as much(must be peace of mind.lol)one thing i was wondering though was if anyone has had the same problem as me with the dials.evrytime i start the car up all the dials(rev counter,speedo,temp and fuel gauge)go straight up to the max then drop back down and then go to where they should be.say if i started the car up 20 times it would normally do it 19 and wouldnt do it just the once.its not a major problem but things like that get to me so any help would be great.cheers
[/quote]


that means the cluster is stuck in test mode so it shouldnt do that when you start the car the fuel gauge should go to wherever it should ie halfway if you have half a tank the mph should not move until the car does and revs should sit around 1000rpm sounds very much like you may need a new cluster ford c an test it and have to replace it at a cost of 99 pounds and only that no more no less after it was shown on watch dog alternatively replacing it with a cluster from the scrapyard though youde ned one close to the mileage thats on youre car so you need ford to check the dash cluster for you
rob80
by cluster do you mean the whole dial console??its ok to drive with.will have to get it done in a few months.cheers mate
artscot79
[quote name='rob80' date='01 April 2010 - 07:06 PM' timestamp='1270144605' post='75535']
by cluster do you mean the whole dial console??its ok to drive with.will have to get it done in a few months.cheers mate
[/quote]


yeh the dials mate
rob80
typical.iv just been to fuel up at shell(which is a bit of a drive from where i live)and called at a few places and it never did it once.the dials worked fine and never shot up on ignition.sayin that its probably a one off and will be bk to normal 2morra.strange how its fine all of a sudden.
coll247
try the battery mine did it when car was parked for a couple of hours it would do it. drive it leave it for 5-10 mins would be ok got a battery from a scrappy and its been alright since
artscot79
[quote name='coll247' date='02 April 2010 - 12:31 AM' timestamp='1270164101' post='75588']
try the battery mine did it when car was parked for a couple of hours it would do it. drive it leave it for 5-10 mins would be ok got a battery from a scrappy and its been alright since
[/quote]


yeah check youre battery is a silver calcium or lead calcium battery and not lead acid as this will cause electrical issues like the dash cluster as the focus has smart charge a normal lead acid battery is no good at all it must be silver/lead calcium dont listen to these numptys in a certain large car shop that will sell you acid batteries they are no good
rob80
how do i tell what battery it is??been lookin around the site but cant find anythin to go off.all my battery says is MOTORCRAFT SUPERSTART.cheers oh and my dials have been 50-50 today
artscot79
[quote name='rob80' date='02 April 2010 - 06:42 PM' timestamp='1270229579' post='75746']
how do i tell what battery it is??been lookin around the site but cant find anythin to go off.all my battery says is MOTORCRAFT SUPERSTART.cheers oh and my dials have been 50-50 today
[/quote]


its a lead acid battery which will have been okay for a bit but the high charging rates will be killing the battery in short it should be silver calcium give youre local ford a call to confirm but im almost sure its the battery thats gibving you issues smart charge can stick up to 18 volts in the battery when cold so a lead acid cant take those i have a silver calcium ansd it was lead acid that was in mine ford told me straight it was the wrong battery call youre local ford parts and find out
rob80
cheers mate.il probably nip up 2morra as im not at work this weekend(woohoo).would be good to change it and knowing it may cure all my problems.im hoping it does.il let you know how i get on,and if the price is right first.cheers
artscot79
[quote name='rob80' date='02 April 2010 - 07:31 PM' timestamp='1270232490' post='75755']
cheers mate.il probably nip up 2morra as im not at work this weekend(woohoo).would be good to change it and knowing it may cure all my problems.im hoping it does.il let you know how i get on,and if the price is right first.cheers
[/quote]


shop around they can vary from 40 quid up to and over a hundred ive seen a few mondeos with similar issues and a new proper batteryhas solved them all so you never know try this i use the moura silver calcium battery its an oem battery uised by all the top manufacturers [url="http://www.challengertyres.com/batteries.php"]http://www.challenge...m/batteries.php[/url] to help you understand the basic principle read this.....The Moura Silver Technology was developed, by Moura Batteries, in the late 1990s, to face the challenges provided by temperature variations and uneven road surfaces, which can affect the life and performance of a conventional battery.

It is the result of several years of work and commitment to provide the best technological solution possible. The Moura Silver Alloy is the result of many years of development work undertaken on Silver Technology.

It is manufactured under extremely strict quality control procedures and, as result, the batteries are used as original equipment by major vehicle manufacturers.

The silver technology enables thinner plates to be used , therefore giving improved starting performance and a greater length of life to the batteries.


[b]Why Silver?[/b]
Most of the worlds leading car manufacturers are now demanding silver technology for their first fit battery. Most European vehicles from 2000 have been fitted with SCS charging systems to take care of the excessive demands placed on today's batteries, the SCS charges batteries on the vehicle at 15.2 volts, this is much higher than a conventional system and therefore will only work with batteries manufactured with Silver Technology.

Silver Technology gives the battery a far higher tolerance and acceptance of this higher charge rate, by fitting a conventional battery the acid would turn black, a high loss of electrolyte and the risk of explosion would occur. A conventional battery would NOT last the period of the guarantee. [b]MOURA SILVER[/b] is the way forward for modern vehicles.The Ultimate in Performance

Designed to combat the drain on batteries caused by short journeys, high under bonnet temperatures, sophisticated vehicle electronics, silver technology takes battery reliability, service life starting power and performance to new heights through patented silver alloy, new plate design and advanced technological construction techniques.

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Moura Battery is OEM part approved by these companies

[center][b]Renault - New Holland - Fiat - Mercedes Benz - Ford - VW - Ford - Chrysler[/b][/center]
rob80
helpful info mate.thanks.gonna av to get it changed soon


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