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andy_1984
2003 ford focus lx estate

gear stick got stuck yesterday, checked the spring to return it to nutral as seen this could be a cause but no it was fine.

when in nutral i get enough play to almost get it in to 1st (crunches the gear box) and enough to get it in to 2nd gear perfectly

when in nutral it wont move to the right but i find if i wiggle and move it in a certain way coming out of 1st gear i can get it to go in to nutral normaly and then in to 3rd 4th and reverse takes a really long time trying to find the sweet spot that lets it in to nutral and even after its in nutral getting it in to the gears i can get it in to is a real nightmare and sometimes can never find it perfectly. if i move it back on to 2nd gear it all locks up again.

one thing i did notice though if you look at the gear stick top down with the centre console removed there are 2 rods 1 is small that is attached to the a piece of plastic where the spring is for returning it to nutral. if i remove the rod from its ball joint i can freely select gears and even sounds like it is going in to gear there is no resistance on the gear stick what so ever. i never done this with the engine running, just an observation too scared incase i make something worse.

found the only garage that was open today (holiday over here in scotland) he told me that the layshaft had too much play in it and it was touching something preventing it from getting in to gear or something was hitting that layshaft.

he also said my clutch was prety worn down cause the bite was at the top ? not sure about that as ive driven a few cars new and old with the bite almost at the top of the pedel.

anyway he quoted around about 250. does his diagnostic sound accurate and is the price accurate as well.

going to go to my usual mechanic tomorrow for a second opinion.

any suggestions ? i need the car fixed urgently as my mums in hospital to take people visiting and getting the house decorated for her return.
catch
[quote name='andy_1984' date='03 May 2010 - 04:09 PM' timestamp='1272898789' post='80471']
if i remove the rod from its ball joint i can freely select gears and even sounds like it is going in to gear there is no resistance on the gear stick what so ever.[/quote]

What do you mean by this? You can actually select the gears in the gear box! Or do you mean the gear stick goes into the expected positions, like it does when it's working normally.


[quote]he also said my clutch was prety worn down cause the bite was at the top ? not sure about that as ive driven a few cars new and old with the bite almost at the top of the pedel.[/quote]

I'd go with his diagnosis, a clutch biting at the top of the stroke of the clutch pedal is usually a good sign your clutch is near the end of it's working life. What's on the clock ?

[quote]anyway he quoted around about 250. does his diagnostic sound accurate and is the price accurate as well.[/quote]
I had a clutch renewed on a mk1 Focus 1.8 Zetec on 80K back in December 2008 for 300, Ford main dealer wanted 500+


[quote]any suggestions ? i need the car fixed urgently as my mums in hospital to take people visiting and getting the house decorated for her return.
[/quote]

Well about a week after we had the clutch renewed, it was parked on the drive and we could not select reverse to get it off the drive[had been working perfectly until then] Anyway turned out the plastic clip arrangement, you mention. Well the two gear selecting wires that come from the gear selector in the cab. Well there is a similar arrangement at the gear box end, and one of those steel balls on the end of one of the rods had slipped out of it's corresponding "C" shaped plastic retaining clip [it had not been pressed home firmly enough under pressure when it was being reassembled after the new clutch had been fitted.] Once that was done, using force applied by a hammer shaft [hammer head being gripped in the hand] it was perfect. There are two wire/ rod arrangements one to move the gear selector in the gearbox side to side and the other up and down. I reckon a new clutch will solve your problems.....but I'm no mechanic
:rolleyes:
andy_1984
[quote name='catch' date='03 May 2010 - 04:49 PM' timestamp='1272904786' post='80492']
What do you mean by this? You can actually select the gears in the gear box! Or do you mean the gear stick goes into the expected positions, like it does when it's working normally.
[/quote]

i get full 360 degree rotation on the gear stick but wont stay locked in a gear position. if you change gears to where you would expect them to be it does actually sound like they have "slotted" in to position but i havnt tried it with the engine on, that rod is obviously there for a reason, just noticed it when it popped out while checking something wasnt being blocked.

the rod that disconnected appears to be the problem as it will depress to a certain point then nothing, it should go a lot further. im sure the mechanic called it a nutral shaft ?

theres 118k on the clock
catch
[quote name='andy_1984' date='03 May 2010 - 06:17 PM' timestamp='1272906472' post='80501']
i get full 360 degree rotation on the gear stick but wont stay locked in a gear position. if you change gears to where you would expect them to be it does actually sound like they have "slotted" in to position but i havnt tried it with the engine on, that rod is obviously there for a reason, just noticed it when it popped out while checking something wasnt being blocked. the rod that disconnected appears to be the problem as it will depress to a certain point then nothing, it should go a lot further. im sure the mechanic called it a nutral shaft ?

theres 118k on the clock
[/quote]

If its the neutral shift shaft [the left to right travel on your gear stick ] it means, even though "you think" you are selecting all the gears, you are not. All your doing is selecting between the two same gears in the gear box. BECAUSE though the neutral selector is connected to the gearbox, is not connected to the gear stick.So you moving the gear stick is not moving the neutral shift in the gearbox.

118K assuming it's on your original clutch, I'd go with the mechanics diagnosis.......you need a new clutch
andy_1984
took it to my usual garage he wanted to replace the cables for 100 but didnt gaurantee it would resolve it as he does not do clutches.

the first garage quoted me 280 to rebuild (not replace)

does this sound right as i see you got it renewed for 300
catch
[quote name='andy_1984' date='04 May 2010 - 12:20 PM' timestamp='1272971412' post='80623']
took it to my usual garage he wanted to replace the cables for £100 but didnt gaurantee it would resolve it as he does not do clutches.[/quote]

Right he does not do clutches so he will take brass off you for doing something else instead.....replacing the cables, I'm guessing those are the two cables that connect at one end to the gear stick and at the other end the gear box. Question you got to ask yourself is this, before you agree to replacing anything, first check it is not already working correctly !!!! Easily done, but you will need somebody to help you in this. Lay down on your back under the front of the car passenger side. Obviously make sure the hand break is on, and better still put some bricks in front of a couple of wheels [ because I don't know if the friend you get to help you is an idiot] You see whilst you are under the car, your friend will have to go through the motions of putting the car into gear using the gear stick....[[b]and it's near the hand brake[/b]]Whilst you are under the car seeing if the cables are actually moving the gear selectors where they connect to the gear box [ just to the left of the gear box when looking at it as your laid on your back looking up] If they are both moving your end whilst he is doing what he is doing his end, then there is nothing wrong with your cables.

[quote]the first garage quoted me £280 to rebuild (not replace)[/quote]

replace what ? Look I think you have not understood him right, I reckon he is talking about replacing the clutch. Either way you are best to clarify what he is going to do for the £280. Think on as far as he was concerned you were just asking him what he thought it was, and how much to put right? So he just gave you an off the top of his head guesstimate. Look if you look like your willing to do business with him, he will price the parts up and give you a solid price for the job.

[quote]does this sound right as i see you got it renewed for £300
[/quote]

That price was for a job done 20th December 2008, at an independent garage, coincidently my mechanic did not do it. As he says he gets a younger guy at the garage next door to do it, which he did. But it is fair to say my mechanic made a bit of brass out of the job, and the guy who did the clutch did it in his own time using his bosses facilities. So all that said I reckon you can get a new clutch fitted in the region of £300...Yes I'm sticking with a new clutch will solve your problem.


Keep us in the loop as to what they say ...out of interest.

EDIT: Andy you may have to prise the cables out of their respective clips that connect them to the gearbox selecting rods.But remember if you do [to check they are working freely, and not being hindered by the clutch from moving] remember to put them under pressure [with the end of a hammer shaft] when engaging them back into their respective clips after doing the check.
andy_1984
got it fixed from the first mechanic who looked at it, he sent the clutch off to another garage in paisley who rebuilt it and found that the bearings had totaly gone. when the mechanic removed it from the car he noted that the oil that came out was almost silver from deposits of metal, presumably from the bearings.

funnily though there was nothing wrong with the layshaft. but the car is running as sweet as a nut, gear changes are as smooth as could ever be and im certain acceleration is up by 25% compaired to what it was like before. (is replacing these bearings able to effect acceleration?)

mechanic was as sound as a pound spoke to him for about an hour about cars and he even stuck his odb2 diagnostic tool in to check why my engine mangement light was on all the time, reset it for me and it hasnt came on till next day he reckoned its just a bad earth wich im about to start a new topic on.

very skint but very happy
catch
[quote name='andy_1984' date='07 May 2010 - 09:04 PM' timestamp='1273262071' post='81111']
got it fixed from the first mechanic who looked at it, he sent the clutch off to another garage in paisley who rebuilt it and found that the bearings had totaly gone. when the mechanic removed it from the car he noted that the oil that came out was almost silver from deposits of metal, presumably from the bearings.

funnily though there was nothing wrong with the layshaft. but the car is running as sweet as a nut, gear changes are as smooth as could ever be and im certain acceleration is up by 25% compaired to what it was like before. (is replacing these bearings able to effect acceleration?)

mechanic was as sound as a pound spoke to him for about an hour about cars and he even stuck his odb2 diagnostic tool in to check why my engine mangement light was on all the time, reset it for me and it hasnt came on till next day he reckoned its just a bad earth wich im about to start a new topic on.

very skint but very happy
[/quote]


Glad you got it sorted Andy, as I suspected if you had had the cables replaced by your man, you would would have just thrown 100 away.

How much was the job in total? Because I reckon the garage he sent it to specialise in clutches, and I very much doubt whilst they had it out, they would replace the clutch bearing and not the clutch that it's self had done 118K. So yes you will experience quicker acceleration on a new clutch, as it will not suffer from the slippage you have on a failing clutch on it's way out.
andy_1984
paid 280 total
catch
[quote name='andy_1984' date='09 May 2010 - 11:18 AM' timestamp='1273399711' post='81324']
paid 280 total
[/quote]

got a good deal then.
andy_1984
yeah i reckon i got a good deal especially with how good its running with the repair, definetly goin back for a few other things to be done. hard to find a decent mechanic around my area
andy_1984
just discovered a few days ago that my air cleaner intake tube is total missing after trying a fix suggested on the forums for rough idle and flickering lights.

what ya reckon my chances are going back to the garage after such a long time ?


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