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Full Version: Mondeo Tdci 130 Temperature Gauge Stops Working P1288 Pending
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Ben Spray
Hi all,

Just bought this Ghia x tdci 130 on Saturday, 05 plate (pre the 2005 facelift) with 98k on the clock, liking it but had a few faults so far, a couple of which are still unresolved.

Firstly when picked up it was stuttering/juddering a bit when cruising, the dealer discounted it enough at this stage for me to take it - on Sunday when I looked at it I found a split in the intercooler pipe under the EGR valve - while sorting that I cleaned the EGR and inlet manifold which seems to have solved that issue for now (waiting to get a pipe from ford but the duck tape is holding up for now)

Then on Monday I noticed that after about 15 miles of normal driving to/from work with the temperature guage around the middle all of a sudden it will go to zero (ie below the 60 mark) and at the same time the car basically turns the turbo off making it very sluggish (usually this happens just before a staggered cross roads near home which crosses a main road and I only find out when the car stalls half way accross the junction due to me not compensating and giving it more throttle!!) Turning the ignition off and restarting it generally fixes it for a couple of miles.
There are no engine lights or flashing glow plug lights etc but if I put my cheapo OBDII reader on I have no stored faults but twice now I have had a "pending fault" of P1288 which according to the ford wiki is "P1288 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor out of Self-Test Range"

Now before I go and buy the sensor is my cheapo reader (one of these 40 ELM327 ones) likely to be correct? and if so is it just a case of getting the sensor from a Ford dealer or are there cheaper places online (for a good quality sensor as looking at where it is I dont fancy having to do it twice!)

The second unresolved issue I've had ever since I picked it up is that its difficult to start when warm, seems fine when cold but after a run (even a short one of say 2 miles in town) it will start but only run at around 300-400rpm giving a really lumpy tickover, often it will then stall again either instantly or within a couple of seconds. If I try to press the accelerator pedal it doesnt do anything. If I try again sometimes it will start as normal or sometimes it does the same thing - holding the key for a couple of extra seconds after its started seems to help although not sure this can be good for it! is this likely to be tied into the other issue or something different? again no warning lights or flashing glow plug lights etc and dont seem to get any pending faults or anything on my code reader.

I've seen these faults mentioned a few times on the forums but not sure if my symptoms are exactly the same so thought it would be best to post and clarify.

Cheers
Ben
Ben Spray
I've just remembered when the temp gauge stops working if I turn the engine off and dont restart it the engine fan keeps running for a few minutes, if I restart it as mentioned it seems to clear the fault for a while and the fan turns off as well.
Not sure if that helps...

Regards
Ben
Ben Spray
I was also wondering if it was worth buying the silicon intercooler hose kit from Forge, local Ford dealer wants 51 for that 1 pipe and you can get the set of 6 pipes from forge for 167 - surely silicon wont split again like a standard rubber one could?
Assuming I can get all of these teething problems sorted, as I managed to get the exact spec and colour car that I wanted I intend to keep it for a while :)

Cheers
mintalkin
it sounds like the faulty sensor is putting the car into limp home mode, then when you turn off the ignition and restart the ecu is clearing the code untill it detects the fault again.
there is a pmc update from ford to cure the hot start problem so talk to you dealer
Ben Spray
[quote name='mintalkin' date='23 September 2010 - 04:16 PM' timestamp='1285254366' post='98447']
it sounds like the faulty sensor is putting the car into limp home mode, then when you turn off the ignition and restart the ecu is clearing the code untill it detects the fault again.
there is a pmc update from ford to cure the hot start problem so talk to you dealer
[/quote]

Cool thanks, the coolant sensor problem seems to be getting worse and after a 10 mile run tonight the engine light is on (P1288 stored and P1288 pending) so I'll get that ordered as well as the boost hose (Im assuming it will be the CHT sensor then and I need to remove the pulley on the cam to change it - any special puller needed for that?)

I'll give the dealers a ring tomorrow and see if I can get it booked in for the software update (I can live with that for now though as I've found if you press the accelerator to the floor then turn it over and leave for key turned for an extra second it generally catches and starts up ok.

Cheers
Ben
Ben Spray
Just been and grabbed a haynes for it - looks like I may need it - looks a simple enough job to change the CHT sensor, probably do the belt as well while its off...
Assuming theres nothing else that could cause this error code I'll get the part ordered tomorrow, just dont want to waste 35 or whatever they are if it could be something else....!?

Cheers
Ben
Ben Spray
Ive attached a couple of screenshots of last nights errors:





So can these sensors just fail like that or is there something else I need to check before paying out for the sensor (had a look at the conenction plug last night and it seemed ok looked clean enough and connected properly)

Regards
Ben
stef123
ive had temp sensors just fail before, exactly the same result as you - the gauge keeps cutting out and as a precaution the rad fan kicks in.

changing the sensor has always worked for me and i would say its the cause of your problem too.

are you going to buy the sensor online? there is a guy on the forum who helps us all out with genuine parts, good prices and quick delivery too.
Ben Spray
[quote name='stef123' date='24 September 2010 - 02:58 PM' timestamp='1285336119' post='98546']
ive had temp sensors just fail before, exactly the same result as you - the gauge keeps cutting out and as a precaution the rad fan kicks in.

changing the sensor has always worked for me and i would say its the cause of your problem too.

are you going to buy the sensor online? there is a guy on the forum who helps us all out with genuine parts, good prices and quick delivery too.
[/quote]

Thanks for the reassurance, I just didnt want to be replacing parts and wasting money, I do have a warrenty on the car however it states that I need to get it diagnosed and then submit the costs etc to them, they they approve or otherwise and I can then get it fixed - looks to me firstly for this type of part that the sensor will cost less than the diagnostics at a ford dealer, and secondly I can get it done a lot quicker as by the time I can get it booked in for diagnostics etc then wait then get it rebooked could be a couple of weeks and as its doing it each way to/from work each day its getting annoying already...

I'd prefer to get it online as the ford dealer near me closes at 5:15 which means I cant easily get there when they are open.
Dont suppose you know who I need to contact on the forum to get the part details/price?

Cheers
Ben
Ben Spray
Hi all

Picked up the sensor today although worried I have the wrong one (finis 1557880 which seems to come up more often for transits on a google search)
Anyway assuming it is correct(?) is it a pain to fit? Ive read that ford have a special tool as you cant get a socket on because of the large plug etc, but apparently its reccessed so you cant use a spanner?!

Cheers
Ben
Ben Spray
Any ideas on the best way to fit this guys - I'm thinking a ring spanner with a slot cut for the wire but is the torque of the sensor critical to the crush of the hollow end sensor part...?
I had a look at the weekend and I think someone has had a go before as the area around the sensor is cleaner than the rest of the engine, but the best bit - the torx bolt that holds the pully onto the end of the camshaft has been rounded off slightly so I cant get much pressure on before my tool slips (which starts making it worse), so I could have an issue - any thoughts of getting that bolt out, will grips work?


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