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lublin
My blower stopped working, in all positions 1-3, and the A/C light doesn't come on either. I tested the fuse and it's OK, I then tested across the fuse sockets on the fuse board and there's 12v present. I have removed the switch to try and test it, but there's a lot of terminals (8). Does anyone have any ideas on this, either testing the switch or any other tests I could do or what the problem might be? The car was built in 95 but has the 96 onwards fuse box. Thanks.

...I have since managed to test the switch and it seems to be working in all positions with or without the A/C in the on position (button pressed in), so any other tips on what to where to look next?
tommy.h
Hi Lublin

fuse should be
F14 - 25A
relay K129
wire colours position 1 - Black/Red
position 2 - Black/Yellow
position 3 - Black/Green
note:- position 3 should be direct from switch to motor (the other 2 are through the resistor pack)so in this position (3) the fan should be on full speed


tom
lublin
[quote name='tommy.h' timestamp='1290443646' post='104591']
Hi Lublin

fuse should be
F14 - 25A
relay K129
wire colours position 1 - Black/Red
position 2 - Black/Yellow
position 3 - Black/Green
note:- position 3 should be direct from switch to motor (the other 2 are through the resistor pack)so in this position (3) the fan should be on full speed


tom
[/quote]
Thanks for the reply Tommy h.
I think you're quoting the older models wiring
Relay, where's that? I've looking in the Haynes manual but it doesn't mention a relay for the blower.
Here's what I've done so far: Test blower motor, works OK, tested all three pins on the resistor, all 3 give different speeds so it is OK, tested power to the switch 12v on the violet and black wire so OK, tested the switch for continuity and I get a signal from different pins when I turn the switch.
What is strange though is, when I connect the switch and test the same pin that has 12v when disconnected, now suddenly has 0v?? And if I short the pins in the switch plug nothing happens, no motor blowing? I was told it could be the fuse box (typical fault) but if it were this then why am I getting 12v from the fuse box, unless it breaks down under load but even when it's in the off position and connect I read 0v on the pin that had 12v when disconnected. I wish it were the resistor because then it would be an easy fix as it's mounted on top of the blower cover (nice design Mr Ford)and so, very easy to get to.
Does the switch need 2 or more pins shorted to make the blower work when the switch is unplugged?
PS it has AC so a different switch with more wires.
Edit: Is # 7 which haynes refers to as Ignition relay, more accurately a blower circuit relay?
big bear
hi if your fuses are ok and theres power to the switch go to a scrap yard and get a switch
lublin
[quote name='big bear' timestamp='1290466430' post='104630']
hi if your fuses are ok and theres power to the switch go to a scrap yard and get a switch
[/quote]
Bought a switch.....still didn't work.

Tested some more and even though I'm getting 12v at 5.5 amps from the fuse box it turned out to be the fuse box because, I removed the fuse, just in case, and then feed 12v from the battery to the connector '+' wire at the back of the switch and everything worked. It must be a dry connection that's breaking down, a common problem with the 95-96 models, or so I was told by Ford mechanic in the UK. I going to bypass the fuse box with a relay, fed direct from a main feed from the battery (if I use an unused fuse box feed then it will happen again later), and an inline fuse.
tommy.h
Hi lublin

glad yousorted it.
just be careful and make sure you use right size of cable with the fuse you install.

tom
lublin
[quote name='tommy.h' timestamp='1290632568' post='104857']
Hi lublin

glad yousorted it.
just be careful and make sure you use right size of cable with the fuse you install.

tom
[/quote]
Hello Tom.
Yes, I used 2.5mm wire which is about 1mm thicker that what went to the back of the switch. I took the power from the main 12v in cable that's bolted to the bottom of the fuse box, with an inline fuse, of course. The relay power I took from the LPG system switch because that's not critical if goes faulty and blows the fuse.


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