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Whitey193
Hi all.

Got a Ford Focus LX 1.8 petrol 5 dr 2001 on a 51 plate.

There's a leak coming through and dropping onto the clutch pedal. It's greasy but watery and appears to have got worse now that we are in winter (ish).

The advisory from the recent MOT stated that there is a split in the grease boot to nearside front anti roll bar drop link ball joint. Is this the issue or is it something else.?

On another note. Every time i use the air con a puddle of water forms in the passenger footwell. What do you reckon the problem could be there then?

Thx in advance.

Whitey. :blink:
mjt
The clutch on your model is hydraulic so it's worth checking this isn't a leak from the master cylinder.

The water in the footwell suggests the drain tube from the A/C evaporator has become detached.
Whitey193
Appreciate the reply. Master cylinder. Sounds expensive. Where is that located so I can have a look ?

Ta.

Whitey.
mjt
You'll find it behind the pedal arm. It has a pushrod attached to the arm just below the pivot.

My reference to the drain tube was a guess. I've been looking through my Haynes manual and can find no no reference to it but there must be one to drain the condensate to the outside. When the A/C is running the water vapour in the incoming air condenses out on the evaporator and needs to be drained away. This is what causes the pool of water you see under a car when it's parked after the A/C has been run.
Whitey193
[quote name='mjt' timestamp='1290533380' post='104692']
You'll find it behind the pedal arm. It has a pushrod attached to the arm just below the pivot.

My reference to the drain tube was a guess. I've been looking through my Haynes manual and can find no no reference to it but there must be one to drain the condensate to the outside. When the A/C is running the water vapour in the incoming air condenses out on the evaporator and needs to be drained away. This is what causes the pool of water you see under a car when it's parked after the A/C has been run.
[/quote]

Makes sense. Shame you couldn't find it in the manual. Where do u reckon the tube will be connected. Engine bay or under the dash??

Cheers.

Whitey.
mjt
The heater matrix is located under the dash and that's also where the evaporator is fitted on cars with aircon so that's where I'd expect to find the drain.

Hopefully one of the experts will clarify things soon.
Whitey193
[quote name='mjt' timestamp='1290535397' post='104697']
The heater matrix is located under the dash and that's also where the evaporator is fitted on cars with aircon so that's where I'd expect to find the drain.

Hopefully one of the experts will clarify things soon.
[/quote]

You're a top man. Appreciate the help mate.

Whitey. :D
dezwez
got my Master cylinder
off ebay 35 to 40 not to hard to fit :)
Whitey193
[quote name='dezwez' timestamp='1290539799' post='104708']
got my Master cylinder
off ebay 35 to 40 not to hard to fit :)
[/quote]

When you say not too hard to fit now that I've sourced one on eBay (thankyouverymuch), whta would you compare it to. Difficult question I know, just wondering whether I have the skills or want to get ripped off by a garage again.

Cheers.

Whitey. :blink:
Whitey193
[quote name='dezwez' timestamp='1290539799' post='104708']
got my Master cylinder
off ebay 35 to 40 not to hard to fit :)
[/quote]

I'm reading through the Haynes manual as it says that it is [b]essential[/b] that I remove the steering column? Did you do that part as well? Sounds a little drastic..

Whitey. :lol:
stef123
changing the master cylinder is easy, a couple of bolts and a clip or 2. you will need to bleed the clutch though, and this can be a PITA at times. steering column doesnt need to be removed but you will need to get down to the pedals and its a little awkward. with all the tools, less than 2 hours for the average DIY man is my guess..
Whitey193
[quote name='stef123' timestamp='1290545423' post='104724']
changing the master cylinder is easy, a couple of bolts and a clip or 2. you will need to bleed the clutch though, and this can be a PITA at times. steering column doesnt need to be removed but you will need to get down to the pedals and its a little awkward. with all the tools, less than 2 hours for the average DIY man is my guess..
[/quote]

Cheers mate. I was hoping for that answer. Erm... Missed the bit int he manual about bleeding the clutch. Help me out on this one??

Ta.

Whitey.. :lol:
stef123
[quote name='Whitey193' timestamp='1290546804' post='104726']
Cheers mate. I was hoping for that answer. Erm... Missed the bit int he manual about bleeding the clutch. Help me out on this one??

Ta.

Whitey.. :lol:
[/quote]

its not difficult, just a PITA at times. ideally you need to pressure or vacuum bleed the system. i would recommend getting yourself an eazibleed kit (from the likes of halfords) as this makes the job so much easier - i think they are about 15 though?
you need to remove the battery and tray (takes 5 minutes) to get at the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder on the top of the gearbox..

hope this helps
stef
Whitey193
Ok. I'm giving this ago next week so I may be back when I bugger it all up.
Is there anything you think I might need to know in advance that would help?

Thx again.

Whitey
stef123
[quote name='Whitey193' timestamp='1290639082' post='104877']
Ok. I'm giving this ago next week so I may be back when I bugger it all up.
Is there anything you think I might need to know in advance that would help?

Thx again.

Whitey
[/quote]

take your time - thats the best bit of advice.

buy plenty of brake fluid, it can take a while to remove all the air - also as i said, i would recommend using the pressure bleeding kit.

its a fairly straight forward job really, bit awkward accessing the clutch pedal but, you can unbolt the bottom of the steering column and push it out of the way - its just one bolt that goes through the shaft (cant miss it)

i cant think of anything else from when i last done the job to be honest.


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