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Hi folks,

i am after your advice on this. this is the first fault and hopefully the last for a while.

basically when booting (needed to get of some slip roads in the local area and up some hills) the car i get a beeping sound, a red light appears and a message that reads "Engine System Fault"

when this happens there is no limp home mode but the exact opposite, an increase in performance, which is really wierd....

do you guys have any advice on what is going wrong...

thanks in advance...
oh and to add to the confusion, i followed the directions to see if there are any codes logged...but none. thats if it does log these sorts of faults.
[quote name='johnH' timestamp='1292499914' post='106928']
oh and to add to the confusion, i followed the directions to see if there are any codes logged...but none. thats if it does log these sorts of faults.

it may or may not be related but wiring leds can have a bad effect on the focus its possible that the leds are causing an electrical issue remember the car was not set up with resistors for leds so you have a current running down wires which to some wires is now being reduced and then increased to other wires ive seen a few of these types of faults at a mates auto electricians place other than that you need a full diagnostic on the car not just the dash codes if it aklso shows nothing than you really have no way of tracking it down till it gets worse
thanks for the reply, this fault happened even before i changed the leds. that and i replaced like for like SMD LED's which have the same resistance, ohms, voltage etc passing through them so that shouldnt effect it, in theory, but it may do what your explaining when changing actual light bulbs to leds as that will make more sense on the technological side of things.

i was thinking it was a grin and bear it sort of thing...never know it might just go away (wishfull thinking) lol
[quote name='johnH' timestamp='1292523782' post='106959']
thanks for the reply, this fault happened even before i changed the leds. that and i replaced like for like SMD LED's which have the same resistance, ohms, voltage etc passing through them so that shouldnt effect it, in theory, but it may do what your explaining when changing actual light bulbs to leds as that will make more sense on the technological side of things.

i was thinking it was a grin and bear it sort of thing...never know it might just go away (wishfull thinking) lol

it can be an alternator issue with the smart charge dropping off and on this can cause the engine light to illuminate usually with the battery light though a coil pack issue or plugs could also cause it to happen as these dont always log fault codes but will throw the light on it could also be a temp sensor fault all of which are a pain to diagnose and require pro tools to test them without the code best bet is have a diagnostic done at ford who can look at the live data and do tests oin the sensors etc to see if its any of those
thanks again, from reading your post i beleive that it maybe something to do with the engine temp sensor, as when looking at the dial, it seems to take ageis to warm up and when it does it sits between quater and halfway up. it makes me laugh coz when i go up a steep hill, say 1 in 3 it goes further down...

i done the gauge sweep on the diag mode and it seems all fine on that, but that doesnt test the sensors.

tbh with all this cold "artic" weather, having to abandon my car ontop of the tallest hill the moors, doesnt exactly surprise me if a temp sensor or 2 have gone.

being a temp sensor also makes sense, as in the past on other cars with coil pack and plug faults (peugeots notorious), the engine management light came on with them followed by limp mode...i dont get that, just a red light next to the screen and the on screen warning, no engine light. thats what confused me the most.

but yeah anyways, do you or anyone else have a rough guesstimate on how much an engine temp or whatever they are called cost and part nos?

thanks again
i was thinking, would a dying/faulty battery also give this fault....

the reason i asked it has only just started, after i had to abandon my car in the moors for 11 hours, with the hazards on.

im thinking the hazards having been on for 11 hours straight in minus temps on top of a hill (goathland) in snow, which i know some batteries dont like the could of drained it and will not charge the damaged cell within the battery.

what do others think? battery or temp probe?
just an update, i dont think there is more to this than meets the eye

basically it happens now when getting up to motorway speeds normally...but before the fault occurs, the car lurches (feels restricted) fault appears and the car seems normal afterwards, but something is missing like the turbo kick...if that makes sense?

i was thinking a pipe or egr needs cleaning? any ideas

thanks in advance
Google just brought me here as I have exactly the same fault. Mine does log fault codes when using my mates kit (he has his own garage). Your bog standard DIY code readers show no code.
We replaced the fuel pressure sensor I think (expensive part) and the car is still exactly the same, but the fault code has changed. Think its now P0001 which is fuel injection circuit is open.

Anyway I cant help solve it at this stage, but we should try and keep each other updated. :)

Its doing my head in!

Mine has done 128k - dunno if its a high mileage related thing?....
Looks like someone else also has the same fault at the moment as well:
I had similar symptoms with my car - may help?
from reading both of those posted threads it seems as though there is a problem with the fuel system, more specifically the fuel filter and housing.

will get this priced up and see if it works.
coming to think about it, it will also make sense as a few times on start up, it has been a bit starting a landrover defender....chuggers, but i rev it to about 3000-4000 hold it for 10 secs and its smooth again.

within the next 2 weeks i am going to carry out a full service - engine flush, all fluids, all filters.

so when i am there i will look and see if there are any splits or breakages in housings etc.

would do it sooner, but with shift work it is kinda hard to get the time and the weather doesnt help.
Very true indeed, my housing went and cost me 150 after a discount I have with Ford... good ol' service plan! but yeah it seems quite similar. when ford hooked it up, they saw a code of low fuel pressure or something thats where mine led - good luck - hope it helps!
You have a different engine to us, but yeah I have been thinking about changing the fuel filter. I'm confident its a fuelling issue (maybe just a sensor as it seems to still make the power).

Just looking at any other factors here so in the past year my car has....

Split boost hose that was replaced
Leaking diesel overspill pipes that were replaced
Redex diesel put in the tank (in hindsight possibly a slightly high dose)

Anyway the most recent of those would be the intercooler hose which was in the summer.
i could just bite the bullet and go direct to dealer and get it diagnosed...but if its anything like peugeot diagnostics....90 a pop!
I heard Ford wont sell you the sensor's etc individually and you have to be a new pump which is about a grand. I managed to get my sensor from a diesel specialist place in Stoke, but it was still 108+vat. However all it did was change the error code (well unless my mechanic is blagging me and its the same code so I dont kick up a stink about replacing a sensor that hasn't made any difference!
Ford are 60 + vat on diagnostics, and then of course your repair bill...
i tend not to go dealers direct for parts...i go to places such as andrew page, unipart and Darlington Kar Parts to get my stuff...cheaper than dealers too...but granted there are a few things you do need to go dealer for, but not much.

anyways i am going to perform a full service on my car just reached 60K. i'm going to replace all the filters...such as fuel, oil, air and cabin. change the oil (millers 5w30). when i am there i am going to get down and dirty and see if there are any split pipes, crappy electrical connections that need TLC and possibly take of the EGR and give that a good scrubbing.

priced up a timing belt kit, water pump and drive belt...all 3 for less that 100! i think that sounds like a bargain from what i have seen...whats ya opinions....obv i am going to get those fitted pro by a garage and marked down for future.
Sounds a good deal, most of the cost comes in the parts, so getting it for that price is a steal! just depends on the garage though, some may insist on removing the engine, others will work around, but either way, I am sure that by an independant garage sorting this all out for you, it should still come to less than ford!
In my experience most mechanics and garages will only want to fit parts supplied by them. This will be especially true for cambelts.

So yesterday I filled up and then put in a dose of millers diesel sport as I heard quite a few people use it on the forums. My car is smoother and quieter (I think!). However any squirt of the throttle now results in the warning light coming on and the engine then loses power. :( So its made it worse. In which case next time I think I'll fill up at a supermarket!
just a little update, did a full service and replaced fuel filter, looked at the housing no issues with cracks and what not.

now i get the engine system fault all the time now even when just turning the ignition to 2. the car wont even start!! FML!!!
I'm no expert, but I dont think your non starting is related to your earlier issue. I believe it will be the diesel injection system will need to be primed up ready. I suspect there is air in. I think this can knacker the pump so be careful!
got the car started and now the fault does not exist...turns out the non-starting was due to the rubber seal on the fuel filter was not on sqaure and causing air to get in. car reprimed and started first go, well happy.

something i have done has also got rid of the above fault in this post. i beleive it was the new fuel filter that has done it.

but for those who are interested, i carried out the following:

- drained and replaced oil (millers 5w30)
- replaced oil filter
- replaced fuel filter (when old was taken out it was black! new ones are a creamy yellow colour, WTF!)
- replaced air filter (have to admit that was minging, goes to show the air is disgusting)
- replaced cabin filter (still have to do)

the car is now smoother, MPG has increased slightly and the fault does not show. happy days!

thanks to all those who helped, shared info and just participated. hopefully this will be some usefull info to someone...even if it is just 1 person.
Good Stuff, Bleedin' Fuel Filter strikes again!!
I have ordered fuel and air filter from Ford to fit tomorrow. Fingers crossed...
Well would you believe today on the way to the garage to fit the new filters the car drove fine with no warning lights even when provoked?! So maybe the millers diesel stuff worked?...
The fuel and air filter were replaced. God knows the last time the fuel filter was done as it looked minging. The air filter was black on half of it, but I've seen worse. Anyway I thrashed the car home and the light didn't come on once. B)
good stuff pugboy...glad to hear it was simple as mine to fix. i do however now have 3 DTC logged due to the fuel filter.


but since the light hasnt come on i have linked this to the fact the battery literally was killed by me trying to get it to turned over and changing the fuel filter...all sorted now.

as i say "Happy days"
Hopefully it remains that simple for you John, but even killing the battery may not be the cause of those messages I dont think. I killed mine, and because I was trying to roll start the car, I had errors coming up for PATS, Low Voltage, and one for the aerial.
well tbh my dad and his mate did try tow starting the maybe the same thing
As long as new problems dont start to arise...!
anyways i decided to upload 2 pictures to show users what we are onna bout. one to show the old fuel filter and one to show the old air filter.



if you dont know what your looking at to see what the problem is, well both should be a clean yellow colour.
You dont turn the car over for ages to get it going after replacing the fuel filter. Its an electronic, low pressure pump (at that stage anyway then high pressure afterwards I believe) so it is primed when you turn the ignition on. So what you need to do is turn the ignition on and off lots of times to prime it. Once you have done that for ages it will hopefully start. Mine did need to be cranked a few times, but you have to prime it several times in between each try.

I must admit I haven't had the fault code reader on mine. I might do it next time I see my mate at the garage.

One other thing is that my car has always had a slight hesitation at 1800rpm (only noticeable on part throttle). This always seemed worse when using supermarket fuel. Anyway that has now gone. Not just that, but it has always struggled to pull 30mph in 4th gear. It now does that OK. This is quite a turnaround after owning the car for nearly 2 years!
As I said before though I'm not sure if thats the fuel additive or the new fuel filter....
aii, same here car feels alot better.

i followed advice of other forums in regards of starting the car, saying it needs to be cranked a few times. in the haynes it mentions nothing of ignition, just starting the car haha. oh well its all sorted now and ive done a few long runs to charge the battery back up to full.

as with the fault codes i didnt get the reader i just used the built in diag mode on most fords...its a stickied thread.

it could be a mix of both a new filter and additive that helped you but i'd sway towards the filter myself...from seeing how random that can give faults lol
Glad your all sorted, you know I really feel for you guy's running troublesome diesels ;) There again I dare say you must feel sorry for us petrol users with our crap mpg, and higher Road Tax :huh:

Now when you look back at this thread, the old mechanics advice rings true. In that, in the event of perceived fuelling or ignition problems. If the state of either the air or fuel filter on a car are unknown, change them. As it's a cheap low cost option, and even if it don't solve the problem, it wont do your car any harm, and can be ignored at the next service. Obviously plugs on petrol cars can just be whipped out for a clean up.
Definitely caused by fuel filter.
Just had this problem myself and the filter was stinking.
New filter put in with a service and 24 hours later the fault has cleared.
Error code was P0087 Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too Low.

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