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lasse1955
(Sorry for some bad English language in this….)
The durashift on my Fusion has malfunctioned sometimes the last month.
No reverse sometimes, no forward gears other times, gears get stuck and at last no gear at all (but the display showed “4”).. Always with the sprocket warning-light lit.
Ford workshop wants 1000£ to fix it, at least.
But the solution was simple, if you are normally handy and can spare an evening.
Everyone think durashift is complicated, complicated and more complicated, BUT THIS IS NO ROCKET SIENCE!!
The problem was the shift actuator (see picture 1).
The shaft from the gearbox that is connected to the actuator was stuck. It should be possible to turn and pull, if normal.
So I disconnected the gearbox shaft from the actuator (one screw), and discovered that the gearbox shaft then was possible to turn, but the actuator was stuck (motor no 1. The one with the white plastic ball joint).
I connected 12v to the actuator motor (motor 1. Pin 1 and 6) but the motor was only "humming". It was really stuck.
I removed the actuator from the gearbox (4 screws). Then I removed the actuator motor no.1 (four screws, se picture 2.) but the actuator was still stuck. It was not possible to push and pull the slider (that now should be really easy to move, as the motor now was gone).
I took a big screwdriver and bent it loose, and discovered then that the rack was stuck in its plastic slide surface (I don’t know the correct English word) inside the actuator housing.
The plastic was a just little deformed but enough to get the rack to stuck really hard.
I drilled a hole in the closed end of the “plastic slide surface” (se picture 3.) and then a bigger hole (see picture 4) to see well and to be able to put in some tool.
Now I saw a little “bump” in the plastic surface (and some dirt). I took a 16mm reamer to make the plastic surface smooth (picture 4.). Now the rack was sliding nice and easy.
If you can’t borrow a 16mm reamer you sure can use a sharp knife or a file or a Dremel or something similar.
I put a plastic cap over the drilled hole and glued it (picture 5).
I mounted the actuator, and the gearbox is working as new.
It feels so good!
Cost? Nothing!


Some tips: DON’T turn the motor when you have removed it from the actuator!!!!! It has position sensors in it, and needs to match the position of the rack!!
Make a mark on the rack before you bend it lose, it must match the position of the motor when you mount them together.

I am not really sure what causes this, but plastic deformation over time is nothing new.
But more likely I think the problem is water. As the plastic slide tube is pointing upwards I guess a small amount of water have come between the plastic tube and the aluminum housing. Either has it there frozen to ice and therefore expanded to a “bump” in the plastic, but more likely it has there caused corrosion on the aluminum which expands to a “bump” inside the plastic tube.
As I glued the cap I assume no more water can enter, to cause more problems.

Greetings from Sweden.
Dan62

\

lasse1955
Yes, to prevent water (with road salt) to penetrate the space between the plastic bush and the aluminum housing you can seal this space with some elastic mass.
I sealed mine with glue, as I glued the plastic cap at the end of the bush.
Only glue, or something similar, should be enough in your case (clean area first).
I have got information by "Meikel_K" that this problem has been notified, so that later actuator parts, and spare parts, have a similar modification.
Dan62

\

lasse1955
Thank you for your encouraging words.
I am glad you could make use of my experience.
It is always nice to be able to help somebody.

Lasse
GAZZ..A
Hi lasse my 53 plate fusion in in the ford shop now and are saying £403.61 for a new actuator, i have the same problems as you,lose of gears , reading 4 ect ..I am handy with the tools and am thinking should i pay to get the job done.or take it out the shop and have a go at this Gary..Thay will fit it free as have i already paid for software update that thay said it would fix gear problems..but 50 feet down the road and it did it agine ,reading 2 but light came on and no driveNICE POST MATE ,,GOT ME THINKING
Dan62

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koslanski
Hi guys, I have similar problem as above with fiesta durashift automatic, it does not start at the moment, the gears seemed to be changing ok when it was driving, but it had moments when it would not start, then after some time it starts and drives well until next time. A couple of days ago it started ok, took off with the first gear but then it was only reving but not pulling. I had to tow it home and after coming across this forum decided to do the same adjustment to shift actuator as described in the above posts. I thought that would solve my problem, but to my disappointment, the rack was not stuck and the plastic housing was smooth so the rack was able to slide normally. After I assembled everything again, it started to my surprise, and I drove a few miles with it, gears changing nicely, and then suddenly it got stuck on the second gear and was not pulling anymore, only revving, and it was not possible to put it into any gear after that. It hasn't started since, and I am not sure what the problem could be. The gearbox shaft, that is going into shift actuator, seems to have a mind of its own, its moving up and down when the ignition is on, maybe that is normal, I don't know. Maybe some of you had similar problems and could drop me a hint what to do in this situation. I had it put on diagnostics, I got some codes about solenoid and incorrect data from the ecu. It is probably down to electronics more than mechanics I guess, but maybe some of you have some thoughts about it, I would greatly appreciate if you could share them here. Thank you.
lasse1955
I wish I could say what the problem is, but I can’t. I agree with you that it is probably down to electronics more than mechanics. Some hint is that the gearbox shaft, which is going into shift actuator, should not be moving up and down all the time when the ignition is on.
When my rack was stuck, the motor was "humming" 4 or 5 times as it tried to turn the actuator and then it "gave up" as it didn’t succeed.
Also motor number 2 turned, as it "tried to help" motor no 1 to put in a gear. After that they didn’t turn any more while the ignition was on, until I switched of the ignition. When I turned on the ignition again then they behaved the same way.
Every time I pushed or pulled shift stick, the motors behaved like I described above and then they didn’t move any more until I moved the shift stick again.
If your actuator behaves like this it dosen´t succeed put in the gears for some reason. If so, there may be some mechanical trouble anyway.

I wish you luck.
koslanski
Thanks for your reply, my problem does not seem to be stuck gear actuators, as they can move easily within their constraints, but the clutch actuator/TCU might be another problem. I took it out, checked for any loose connections, did a bit of soldering, put it all back together, bled the actuator and the car does not start now at all. But when ignition is on, it seems to find gears and change them properly. I was joking with my friend, we will probably be the only or some of the very few people who have actually opened the clutch actuator unit :) Maybe sounds like too much of DIY stuff going on, but anyway, after all this I guess I will still have to go to dealer and get something serious done to the car in order to drive it again. But now I can vouch for the mechanical part of it, it might only be something in the electronics, if the ECU or TCU has got errors in it, then I have no way of solving that in my driveway :). Anyway, I will let you know what I ended up doing to make it work.
Juraj
.
judas
I think I had the same problem. My car would drive ok until I hit a round about and would want to switch between 2nd and 3rd gears and stay in between and then would not kick into gear quickly. Then kind of slow down a bit. I broke down when I was going down a road and when it was time to go from 2nd to third it slowed down and stopped. The dash was not reading gears or even starting. You guys think its the actuater?
simpledan
this thread will save someone alot of money. good job
jaw
[quote name='lasse1955' timestamp='1296591811' post='112243']
(Sorry for some bad English language in this….)
The durashift on my Fusion has malfunctioned sometimes the last month.
No reverse sometimes, no forward gears other times, gears get stuck and at last no gear at all (but the display showed “4”).. Always with the sprocket warning-light lit.
Ford workshop wants 1000£ to fix it, at least.
But the solution was simple, if you are normally handy and can spare an evening.
Everyone think durashift is complicated, complicated and more complicated, BUT THIS IS NO ROCKET SIENCE!!
The problem was the shift actuator (see picture 1).
The shaft from the gearbox that is connected to the actuator was stuck. It should be possible to turn and pull, if normal.
So I disconnected the gearbox shaft from the actuator (one screw), and discovered that the gearbox shaft then was possible to turn, but the actuator was stuck (motor no 1. The one with the white plastic ball joint).
I connected 12v to the actuator motor (motor 1. Pin 1 and 6) but the motor was only "humming". It was really stuck.
I removed the actuator from the gearbox (4 screws). Then I removed the actuator motor no.1 (four screws, se picture 2.) but the actuator was still stuck. It was not possible to push and pull the slider (that now should be really easy to move, as the motor now was gone).
I took a big screwdriver and bent it loose, and discovered then that the rack was stuck in its plastic slide surface (I don’t know the correct English word) inside the actuator housing.
The plastic was a just little deformed but enough to get the rack to stuck really hard.
I drilled a hole in the closed end of the “plastic slide surface” (se picture 3.) and then a bigger hole (see picture 4) to see well and to be able to put in some tool.
Now I saw a little “bump” in the plastic surface (and some dirt). I took a 16mm reamer to make the plastic surface smooth (picture 4.). Now the rack was sliding nice and easy.
If you can’t borrow a 16mm reamer you sure can use a sharp knife or a file or a Dremel or something similar.
I put a plastic cap over the drilled hole and glued it (picture 5).
I mounted the actuator, and the gearbox is working as new.
It feels so good!
Cost? Nothing!


Some tips: DON’T turn the motor when you have removed it from the actuator!!!!! It has position sensors in it, and needs to match the position of the rack!!
Make a mark on the rack before you bend it lose, it must match the position of the motor when you mount them together.

I am not really sure what causes this, but plastic deformation over time is nothing new.
But more likely I think the problem is water. As the plastic slide tube is pointing upwards I guess a small amount of water have come between the plastic tube and the aluminum housing. Either has it there frozen to ice and therefore expanded to a “bump” in the plastic, but more likely it has there caused corrosion on the aluminum which expands to a “bump” inside the plastic tube.
As I glued the cap I assume no more water can enter, to cause more problems.

Greetings from Sweden.
[/quote]
jaw
HI,
YOUR POSTING IS FANTASTIC AND VERY HELPFUL.I AM USING YOUR POST TO REPAIR GEARSHIFT CONTROLLER.YOU SAY TO MARK POSITION OF RACK BEFORE REMOVING MOTOR AND PUSHING SLIDER.UNFORTUNATELY SOMEONE HAS HAD A GO AT THIS BEFORE ME AND DID NOT MARK THEIR POSITIONS.IS THERE ANY WAY I CAN STILL MATCH THESE POSITIONS SO THEY ALIGN CORRECTLY AS SLIDER IS NOW LOOSE,I JUST DO NOT KNOW WHAT POSITION IT SHOULD BE IN WHEN I CONNECT MOTOR.
lasse1955
Hi jaw. This is only some thoughts from me.

I really don’t know how to synchronize the motor with the rack when the marking is lost, but the motor has got a worm gear that is hard to rotate by hand. So I guess you can assume that the motor has held its position.
The cogs are quite "wide" so there are a limited numbers of positions to "try"... and I don’t think anything will break if you got it wrong (no promise!).

Try to get the gearbox in "neutral" (if it isn’t already), by turning the gearbox shaft.
Push the car forward/backwards to check that the neutral is engaged (gearbox in neutral is a common position when this error happens).
Put the rack in the middle position and mount the motor. Then mount the actuator on the car.
Start the car and make a wish it was the right position.
If it wasn’t successful,dismount and move the rack one cog. Try again...and again....
I haven’t tried this so I really don’t know if it works. But it is how I should work if I got the problem.

Correct me someone, if you think this is craziness.

Good luck.

PS.
If no one has turned the gearbox shaft, you maybe can figure out what position the rack had when it was removed.
DS.
fliegergott
[quote name='lasse1955' timestamp='1296591811' post='112243']
(Sorry for some bad English language in this….)
The durashift on my Fusion has malfunctioned sometimes the last month.
No reverse sometimes, no forward gears other times, gears get stuck and at last no gear at all (but the display showed “4”).. Always with the sprocket warning-light lit.
Ford workshop wants 1000£ to fix it, at least.

...

I am not really sure what causes this, but plastic deformation over time is nothing new.
But more likely I think the problem is water. As the plastic slide tube is pointing upwards I guess a small amount of water have come between the plastic tube and the aluminum housing. Either has it there frozen to ice and therefore expanded to a “bump” in the plastic, but more likely it has there caused corrosion on the aluminum which expands to a “bump” inside the plastic tube.
As I glued the cap I assume no more water can enter, to cause more problems.

Greetings from Sweden.
[/quote]



THANK YOU VERY MUCH! THAT WAS IST! YOU SAVED MY WIFE € 1.000,-! AND I HAD A NICE DAY SPENDING THE AFTERNOON UNDER HER CAR! ;-)

Greetings from Austria.
lasse1955
Thank You fliegergott! It is always nice to be able to help.
Faraz
Could someone help me, my car is completely broken down and the garage is asking for £2400 as both Actuator and Control Unit are gone, do I've any way to get it fixed cheaper otherwise I'll have to scrap the car :(

Here's my thread for full details:

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/29287-recently-purchased-car-broken-down-plz-help/page__gopid__159321#entry159321
Tola
I have a 2009 Mondeo. The problem is similar to that posted by @lasse1955 but mine gets stuck in the 3rd gear with a prompt to service the transmission. Also the car jerks when i try to rev to see if i can force it into higher gears. When i slow down, it does not downshift unless i switch off the engine. Can anybody suggest anything to help fix this problem?


Regards,

Tola
Faraz
I got my car fixed following your instructions, Dan62 from this forum came to help me. Just don't trust what garage and showrooms says always explore yourself. Ford showroom quote me £2400 to fix it, so i was almost going to scrap my car.
You guys rock! Thanks
mashery
Great post, this also fixed the problem for me - garage quoted us 800 quid. Unfortunately the top of the nylon bushing cracked slightly while i was smoothing things out, I had a look around and you can purchase them in just about any dimension so could probably source a new one (cost only around 5 GBP), however I have no clue if you remove the bushing, how do you secure the new one?
just hammer it in or are they glued or what?
ayybeek
Recently I bought Mondeo 2004, 2.5 petrol engine, automatic gear box. The problem occuring is this, when accelerated slowly then can reach up to only 80 km/h. But, when push the gas pedal suddenly, the engine revvs and whistles as turbo engine or Ferrari, but the speed does not change, as if you are revving on neutral. Sometimes it speeds up but again very slowly and engines revvs up to 5 to 6 thousand before it shifts, but acceleration is very slow, as if it is towing something huge. I had checked in computer diagnostics - they found that ABS sensor is out of order, so the mechanic said that because of that fault - it is not accelerating as it should. Please tell us about any similar problems, if any occured in the past. thanks a lot. Should I change the sensor or is it gear box fault or anything else?
mussyal
Hi guys, ive just had a go at this, the shaft was stuck solid, marked everything up, reamed out the plastic sleeve and reassembled, display on dash stays on N and wont shift into any gear ? wot do u reckon ? i checked for 12v on the loom connector at the actuator but no voltage there ?
Dan62

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mussyal
Thanx Dan, tried all three fuses all ok, i think i need to find a way of testing the actuators on the shift motors next ? car starts only if gearstick is in the neutral position and the dash display stays in N only.
Kayschi
Hi Lasse,

My name is Kay from Germany closed to Hamburg.
I had the same problem with gear actuator of my Mom´s Ford Fusion.
I followed your advice and It took me 2.5h to get it done :-)
The Ford dealer told me the actuator assy should cost 950EUR + assembly.

The only thing I wanted to say is:
THANK YOU VERY MUCH !!!

To all others... keep going with sharing
Such platforms are fantastic.

I´m really happy about my supported well done job.

Best Regards
Kay
gadget
hello there i need help and advice please i have a 05 plate ford fusion durashift and i was driving down the road when the car came to a complete stop yet the engine was still running the dash was displaying 5th gear i turned car off and now wont start the dash is displaying like a 0 with a line through it got it towed to fords and they put on a diagnostic machine which showed up nothing yet still cost me 86 pound fords told me its the actuator motor that has seized and its gonna cost me £890 inc vat is there any way i can reduce this cost by trying something your replys are much appreciated
Dan62

\

gadget
thank you for your reply my missis says not to touch the car as i might make it worse can you get to these parts over the car bonnet or do u have to go under the car ive never worked on these semi auto cars and have not got a clue what im looking at also how do i unseize the motor cause if its completly seized im looking at spending £550 just on a motor thanks
rich.d81
Just like to say, i follwed this repair thread after experiencing no gears or drive when slowing down for traffic lights or roundabouts.( i have a 53 plate 65000 mile fusion 1.4 petrol) i found a tight bush once i removed the actuator shaft, once the bush was reamed out and the shaft polished i reassembled with grease and now the car performs perfectly.

Great tip, saved a fortune.Many thanks.
Jay578
Hi,

[u][b]I have a ford fiesta 1.4 durashift (ESP) petrol 2004.[/b][/u]

Since servicing the car at dealer the car has began to shudder and stall on morning start up and stalling altogether. The dealer had serviced the car changing the engine and brake fluid oil and provided a check up.

However, yesterday the car stalled with a loud thump noise when I was reversing. It would not drive forwards either. When put in reverse it makes a loud grinding noise as if the it's not in the right gear repeatedly.

Occasionally the transmission light comes up and then disappears. As dealer engineers are closed I called a local mechanic and they investigated and found a low level of brake/transmission fluid level, but to my horror a leak from a pipe, which they said should have been picked up by EAG.

Any idea's what kind of damage has caused to the car and what checks I can do. Obviously with the leak I am not going to drive it, basically the car doesn't move.

I appreciate all the help as I am new to Ford.
Mogger
Lasse1955, you are an absloute legend my friend.
My wife's got a 2003 Fiesta 1.4 with Durashift box. Since I have stopped using my bike this has been my only vehicle for doing my 60 mile a day commute so is important to me. We have always had a few issues with this particulat gearbox since we bought it second hand in 2007, missing gears, hesitation in selecting gears and an annoying judder when pulling away.
Well, 2 weeks ago things got worse. Pulling up at junctions still in 5th gear, taking ages to fing neutral, real long hesitation between 2nd and 3rd gear and juddering worse than ever. I spoke to a mechanic friend of mine who suggested undoing the electrical plugs and cleaning them out with WD-40, I was sceptical because it definitely sounded mechanical. I could not believe it,... it worked, well for about 200 miles until on Wednesday morning, the coldest day of the year at 6 am going to work. I pulled out from the bottom of my road, went from 1st to 2nd no problem, 2nd to 3rd NO WAY! Pulled over and that was that, no gears, no neutral, no engine, would even turn over. I ended up having to be towed home and spent the day researching.
Then I came across this forum and it started to make sense and so using Lasse1955's post me and my mate Wilsky (mainly Wilsky) tackled the problem.
Now I am in no way a mechanic but I have to say that this was easy. It took us in total about 2 hours including tea breaks and popping in to watch the football.
On my car the larger of the 2 spindles were absolutely jammed solid and took a bit of work freeing it up. Once it was out we got some 15mm copper tube and attatched some fine sandpaper to it and went about boring out the cyclinder until the spinlde moved freely up and down. Put it all back together and took it for a spin. I am not exagerating when I say that it drives better than when we bought it and the judder has gone aswell, for now anyway.
So sorry for the essay but I felt I needed to share and say a big thanks to Lasse1955, there are more than a few beers waiting here for you mate. Greetings from UK.
If anyone wants more info on how to do this then just ask. I'll be more than happy to help. I should have taken more photos I know.
leccy
hi there i was reading this post and have all of the above probs no display on dash just 2 little lines appear for a few seconds then nothing wont start
i took the starter relay out and bypassed it got the car started but no gears so hhopefully this fix will do it cant try till weekend but just wanted to know
is all the work done over the bonnet or from underneath also what else has to be dismantled to get at the motors
thanks
lasse1955
rich.d81, Mogger and many others:
It really makes a boost to my life to read the stories you write, and collect the happiness within. I sure am glad my thread being helpful.
I also feel good about the fact that many of you added some tip and make some better explanations than me. I just wish I had taken more photos.

leccy:
[size=4][color=#222222]Most of the work, to remove the actuator from the car, is done from underneath. [/color]
[color=#222222]If I remember right, a bolt (or two) that fastens the actuator by the gear box is better released over the bonnet ( but I really don’t remember exactly, as it is two years since I did this, but you sure find it out when you start working).[/color][/size]
beatcon
hi i know i may sound totally daft but which bolts actually hold the gearshift actuator in place????? :unsure:
Dan62

\

danny54

hi...have done everything as above,car worked for about 2miles as soon as i pulled in to drive-way engine cut out ..and will not start or show which gear car is in as nothing shows on dash..any help would be great ...tks 

beatcon

ok need some advice i took the gesr shift actuator out there it moves freely.....seems to be fine. I put it back in and all was still the same. i noticed that the thing that was stopping the gears selecting is actually the little gear selector arm that clips into the plastic ball joint of the actuator rod. I disconnected the ball joint and the whole actuator mechanism seems to actually work it moves up and down as it should looking for the gears. 

 

Could this be the clutch or gears that are the problem rather than the actuators.

wase16ll
i did a write up on another common fault with the durashift, well worth checking at the same time if your repairing the bush, or maybe your problem if the above trick didnt work.

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/41836-fix-durashift-problem-2/
frogsuk

Re. initial post by lasse1955 and actuator rack sticking

 

Yesterday my daughters car broke down 180 miles from home with three of us in it. The RAC came out and bless the chap, he spent 2 hours trying to repair it. The problem was that it would jam out of gear so not able to start. In the end the car was recovered to my home and they gave us a new VW to use as we have onward travel cover (Fantastic cover from RAC and only £55 cover for two people using  Tesco Club and points).

Car was returned to our home this morning and the same thing that you reported was wrong. Took 1 1/4 hours to remove it, repair and refit as you post says... A very easy job... I removed the headlight (three screws and a connector) and access was great. Didn't even need to jack the car up.

Thank you so much for your post... Saved me a heap...

amre
Thanks very much.for this info.i looked on fords website 15 june.and a actuator was £543.41 plus vat.for my fiesta.i have dabbled with motors over the years.so i gave it a go.pleased to say your wise words.worked a treat.thank you.from almost sunny basildon.essex.uk
Msa
Hi I've got a fusion dura torque gear shift problem it will go in 1st and reverse no problem but will not change up any ideas
gerryse16

I have read with interest  and like you said What have i got to lose so i am going to have a go at it this weekend.Just one thing and i hope i don't sound stupid.Did you grease or oil the slider when you reassembled the unit.

hugouyttendaele

Hey guys,

 

 

I'm a belgian owner of a 2004 ford fusion + with a durashift transmission, as the car has some simular problems regarding to not wanting to shift in gear  and gear position indicator is going blank, i've been reading about the fixes over here.

 

I've taken out the gear shift actuators as these can cause problems but the are not stuck, the plastic bushing was clean and the axle moved freely within.

then i have opened op the electric motors to see if there was any problems, but the only thing i've found was dust from the brushes, witch i've cleaned out using compressed air.

There is indeed a smal electronic board in it, also covered in dust.

But this did not fixed the problem.

At the same time i have opened up the complete wiring loom, checked it visualy and measured it out, but no corrosion or faults found.

After these fixes i've put al the pieces back into the car and tried it out, no luck.

 

Then i've taken out the clutch actuator, witch was not an easy task, and opened up the electric motor. the motor was covered in dust the carbon brushes, and after inspecting the rotor, i saw that the brushes are complete gone on one side, and not touching the rotor anymore.

 

Does anyone know if there are replacement sets for these brushes for sale somewhere? Or does anybody knows where i can get this fixed? As i'm not sure that the rebuilders that you can find on the www are rebuilding the motors too, it seems that these are electronic repair techs.

 

Sorry for my bad english, as it is not my native language.

FiestaLudwigs

Hello is it possible for someone to record a video when he is going to reapir his durashift and upload it here or youtube and share its link possibly?

 

I am not brave enough to pop in and can not afford the worse results which I will cause if I make smth wrong.

yesterday I waited 2 hours in the cold until the car started again after I have stopped for a smal pause on the highway.

 

 

How I survived yesterday: I pulled the car with the help
of another guy for a few meter. I think the actuater has moved a lil bit
and then after a few minutes the car started

 

I will be thankful for your help.

 

@ Lasse1955

 

special thanks guy! you are a great personality with your friendly attitude.

 

is it possible only record a video to show where exactly these parts are. do I have to bring the car up and work under the engine or from the top will it be ok?

 

THANKS EVERYBODY

FiestaLudwigs

Hello is it possible for someone to record a video when he is going to reapir his durashift and upload it here or youtube and share its link possibly?

 

I am not brave enough to pop in and can not afford the worse results which I will cause if I make smth wrong.

yesterday I waited 2 hours in the cold until the car started again after I have stopped for a smal pause on the highway.

 

 

How I survived yesterday: I pulled the car with the help
of another guy for a few meter. I think the actuater has moved a lil bit
and then after a few minutes the car started

 

I will be thankful for your help.

 

@ Lasse1955

 

special thanks guy! you are a great personality with your friendly attitude.

 

is it possible only record a video to show where exactly these parts are. do I have to bring the car up and work under the engine or from the top will it be ok?

 

THANKS EVERYBODY

 

 

 

 

TODAY I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AGAIN.

 

I LEFT WORK ON 19:00 AND NOW I AM AT HOME (ITS 4:18 A:M). YES, I WAS HOPING THAT A MAGIC WILL HAPPEN AND THE CAR WILL START, BUT IT DID NOT. I CALLED A TOWTRUCK TO PICK THE CAR UP, THE GERMAN GUYS IN THE PARKINGLOT DID NOT EVEN GIVE THEIR MOBILE PHONE TO CALL A HELP. MY PHONE´ S BATTERY WAS EMPTY.

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME

 

THE CAR STANDS IN FRONT OF A WORKSHOP, HOWEVER I WILL NOT BE ABLE TO AFFORD IT IF THEY REQUEST SMTHNG MORE THAN 150-200€

jeebowhite

Hi Korntal,

 

Unfortunately its not one of those jobs people want to go doing and taking their car apart unless its broken. I would say that a video appearing soon is unlikely.

 

I would say just give it a go! worst case scenario, you cant fix it and you need it fixing by the garage anyway, so at least you would have tried!

FiestaLudwigs

Hello, thanks jeebowhite for the answer.

 

I have read in a forum that there is a button under the plastic cover of the gear knob- which sets the gear back to N mode. does anybody knows about this button? for which model years there is such a button or it is just a fantasy entry in a forum?

 

thank you

jeebowhite

I know there is a manual Park release, but I cant say I have heard of the neutral button. I have to be honest though, I am not as au fete with the auto fiesta's.



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