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Smith28
Hello guys. Ive allways owned nissans but i invested in a focus and love it. Its like a little go-cart lol.

I have a 52 reg focus 1.6. Zetec SE. id just like to know if any 1 will know why my focus on a tick over goes up and down between 1000rpm and 800 rpm. It sounds like its going so low the engine sounds like its going to stall.

Id much appricate some advice in hope to fix this niggling problem.
Lenny
[quote name='Smith28' timestamp='1315951990' post='144069']
Hello guys. Ive allways owned nissans but i invested in a focus and love it. Its like a little go-cart lol.

I have a 52 reg focus 1.6. Zetec SE. id just like to know if any 1 will know why my focus on a tick over goes up and down between 1000rpm and 800 rpm. It sounds like its going so low the engine sounds like its going to stall.

Id much appricate some advice in hope to fix this niggling problem.
[/quote]

Welcome to the forum and excellent choice.
The problem could be numerous things mate
could be spark plugs,
Fuel Injectors,
Air Filter
Fuel Filter, even the Fuel itself
best advise for trouble shooting I can recommend is to try this [url="http://remapz.co.uk/BuyMagicBullet.aspx"][color="#0000ff"]Click Here[/color][/url] Magic Bullet it's better for your engine as it doesn’t use solvent based chemicals like STP or redex.
Will clean the injectors and should leave it running smooth.
Also check or change all four spark plugs and possibly change your air filter. if using the cleaner in the system try to let the tank with the cleaner in it, run as close to empty as possible before adding more fuel as this will ensure maximum cleaning potential through the system.
as if you add more fuel half way through the cycle this will dilute the strength of the cleaner in the fuel.
id try the cleaner befor trying anything else mate, its bound to help B)

andy_1984
should stick to one thread Smith you will get better results.

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/26878-weird-rpm/
Smith28
Hey lenny thanks for ur reply. Ive checked spark plugs and seem fine. But going for new 1s anyway

Stuck red ex through and not helped. What oil would u recommend? Im positive its got 5w-30. Only had car 1 week.

Air filter isnt to bad.
Lenny
5W-30 should be fine mate, Castrol edge i like to use.
also recommend purchasing a magnetic oil sump plug,
this will attract any metal particals in the oil leaving your system cleaner for longer and preventing metal particals circulating around your system.
[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-mazda-honda-Magnetic-oil-sump-drain-plug-m14-x-1-5-/320724205309?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4aaca6fefd"]Click Here[/url]

I would have expected Red-ex to have done some type of improvment, try connections arount the air mass flow sensor its just past your air filter on the way in to the engine,
and perhaps take off the pipe and examine the throttle body flap for blockage,
other than that could be the knock sensor, which i dont know much about.
Lenny
Maybe check the power steering belt tension and change the power steering fluid,
check the manual but I’m pretty sure its Dextrin III automatic transmission fluid it takes, 1ltr should be enough,
it can be pink or green in colour Halfords stock this in dark blue bottle’s around £6
to change the fluid look at the reservoir, there are an in and an out,
the in is generally higher pipe than the out,
disconnect the in and put it in to a 2ltr coke bottle or similar,
get a mate to turn the engine on and off really quickly and repeatedly on,off,on,off
to jolt the fluid through the system in to the bottle,
as the reservoir gets low, replace with the new fluid, up to the level of the open pipe hole,
let that run through in the the return bottle then rejoin the pipe from the bottle.
fill to line on the reservoir then run the engine for 2minutes, turning the steering full lock to the left then to the right
check the level of the steering fluid again and top up if required.

just trying to solve anything that may restrict the smooth run of the engine, could be something catching causing a jolt, which led me to think of changing the power steering fluid as the pump runs constantly with the engine running. its also a fluid the garage never change so would be due mate, steering should feel slightly free afterwards.

Smith28
I shall try that in morning lenny. I cleaned the air control sensor next to throttle body but still does the dodgy idle.

I can only explain it as it drops right below 600 and bounces bk to 1000rpm and repeats 3-4 times then sorts itself out.
Lenny
[quote name='Smith28' timestamp='1316038137' post='144225']
I shall try that in morning lenny. I cleaned the air control sensor next to throttle body but still does the dodgy idle.

I can only explain it as it drops right below 600 and bounces bk to 1000rpm and repeats 3-4 times then sorts itself out.
[/quote]

seems like somthing is restricting it mate, any squeek from the cogs ie. the air con compressor wheel or power steering wheel also feel along the HT leads for cracks or splits, these are the leads that go from the distributer and feed the spark plugs,
im sure you know that already but im trying to give as much info as possible to save you more time asking :)
water pump wheel also
Smith28
Yeah checked my leads. Seem fine but found a pully an my alternator best make a weird squeec and wobbles a bit. NOT GOOD.

IM GUESSING its expensive to fix. Lol.
Thanks again lenny for ur replys. ;-)
Smith28
The small pully at bk near the bottom that the alternator belt runs on.
Lenny
[quote name='Smith28' timestamp='1316070640' post='144248']
The small pully at bk near the bottom that the alternator belt runs on.
[/quote]

No problem mate,
I'm happy to have your problem to keep my mind occupied
this would explain the loss in power/sinking of revs as the battery in the car is only used either to start the car or power the radio etc. when the engine isint running,
if your altimeter isn't functioning properly this will also strain your battery and if the alternator is causing a fluctuation of power this is also bad for your fuse box and fuel consumption, as the spark in the plugs won't be 100% when changing the alternator id recommend changing the belt also,
this job you should be able to carry out by yourself as the alternator is in a fixed location and a simple process of swapping like for like, out with the old in with the new,
most garages will take your old alternator and give you a reconditioned one, then recondition yours and give it to the next guy and so on,
but if you wish you can buy one online [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2001-FORD-FOCUS-ALTINATOR-SPARE-PART-/200623334908?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2eb61525fc"][color="#0000ff"]Click Here[/color][/url]

the other option to get a garage to supply and fit your talking around £100 but no more than that,
when buying a car a good way of checking the alternator is to start the car then open the bonnet and disconnect the positive on the battery,
the car should stay running on the alternator as it does when all is 100%
if the car stops the alternator is not supporting the engine,

in your case at the moment the battery is supporting the engine when the alternator fades,
this will result in a flat battery,
the alternator should run the car and charge the battery also at the same time.

Again there is no Guarantee that the one on eBay is 100% id recommend for peace of mind and some sort of guarantee id get a reconditioned one from a garage
Smith28
Ahhhh. So would this pully cost alot to fix?? Im going to go out and try the battery trick now see if it stops or stays started.

The power is there when im booting it. But now im paranoid that pully is going to eventually brake off and nack my engine lol.
Lenny
[quote name='Smith28' timestamp='1316109628' post='144280']
Ahhhh. So would this pully cost alot to fix?? Im going to go out and try the battery trick now see if it stops or stays started.

The power is there when im booting it. But now im paranoid that pully is going to eventually brake off and nack my engine lol.
[/quote]

i dont know how much or if the pully can be fixed mate, may just need an allen key screw to lock it back on to the shaft, stop it sliding,
maybe someone else can answer this one B)


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