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Full Version: Ford Focus 06 Heated Screen Drivers Side Failure Real Reason
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Ford and screen fitters say the elements fail which fail one half of the screen. Nope, the heating elements are in parallel not series, so one failing wont fail a side of the screen. Instead your windscreen wiper mechanism is fouling the delicate fol strip that supplies power to the screen. Ford wont admit this design fault unless more people complain to ford, they should be recalled. Mine is a ford focus titanium 06 model.

Below is my youtube video showing the reason my drivers side of the screen has faile, it funny from what ive read its always everyones drivers heater that fails!
in reply to a message received, it is not possible to move the foil power supply lead to any other position. It has very little play and the plastic cowling sits above it. This is a MAJOR design fault. It seems ford added these screens after designing the wipers. I imagine thousands of people have replaced windscreens thinking the elements have gone when in fact fords bad design has caused this problem. With winter approaching if yours has failed I urge you to approach ford to complain about this design fault, and also BBCs Watchdog. Has anyone else removed the cover and seen this before?
That is absolutely shocking!!!

Probably explains why mine is not working!

Pee's me right off as I was looking forward to using it this winter :) no more de-icer or scraping but hey ho. (new to fords and always loved the quick clear)

Great post and video very helpful, thank you.
Is the foil strip the return (-ve) or power(+ve)?
Would it be possible to take the wire connector over the top of the wiper strut, to lift the foil above the moving part, and cable tie it out the way. I have read your comment about not being able to move it any where else, but in the vid it does look as if it could go over, rather than under. Or do the plastics preclude this? It's dark at the moment, but if not to much work involved to get to the strip then I shall have a look myself.

Fancy posting a couple of bullet points on how to expose the strip?:)
[quote name='ajt' timestamp='1318365175' post='148117']
Would it be possible to take the wire connector over the top of the wiper strut, to lift the foil above the moving part, and cable tie it out the way. I have read your comment about not being able to move it any where else, but in the vid it does look as if it could go over, rather than under. Or do the plastics preclude this? It's dark at the moment, but if not to much work involved to get to the strip then I shall have a look myself.

Fancy posting a couple of bullet points on how to expose the strip?:)

i would if possible glue a thin foam piece to the metal above the strip then use something to keep the strip out the way for extra protection glue a soft piece of foam very thin foam on the wiper arm where it may rub
I had a look at mine earlier (TDCi Zetec 1.6 2007)

[url=""]Drivers Side Windscreen Ribbon[/url]

and it is routed as I suggested in earlier post! I'm a genius :P

At 2.32 in your video I believe I can see the clip that the wire should be clipped into on your car, its slightly obscured by the wire that goes through the bonnet hinge, in horizontal alignment with the wiper post and wiper fixing bolt. It looks as if it has not been fitted right.

[b]It is not a design fault.[/b]
I just watched your video again and spotted you have the same problem on the passenger side. There is a clip that is not being used. I would suggest the screen connection should be clipped to this, to stop the wire and ribbon just flapping in the wind, so to speak.
readimg that and watching the vid again i would have 2 agree with ajt
Nice video, but just an observation, in the video you keep calling it the Heated Rear Windscreen :)
dougies st
I have the solution for how to repair this fault.

Its very easy and only takes around 30 - 40 mins.

I posted it on the passionford forum but didnt get much of a reply !

I have just repaired mine and these are the steps I took to do the job.

Tools needed. Stanley knife, pipe grips, thin headed screwdriver, solder iron and solder, 2.5mm stranded cable, heat shrink, a small crocodile clip or a friend.

ok so here is a few simple instructions on how to repair your faulty heated front windscreen.

1. Open bonnet
2. Remove rubber covers on window wipers. Expose nuts
3. Using a set of grips or spanner undo bolts
To remove the wipers, push down on the join and pull the wiper arm towards the engine bay and lift up. x2
5. You will see around about 8 clips holding on the plastic trim that the wiper supports come through. Remove these clips
6. Remove plastic trim, this just peels off.
7. Now you have exposed the window wiper bars and heating elements.
Take a look on the driver side and you will see a cable hanging loose and a black tab hanging from under your window.
8. Disconnect cable and cut open the opposite end to expose the cable inside. You will see small square of treated copper.
9 scrape off the silver to expose copper.
10. Get some 2.5mm stranded cable around 10 inches is enough. strip 10mm of insulation away and using a solder iron tin the end fully. Heat shrink can be added to this cable.
11. Tin with solder the exposed copper on the small square of copper.
12. If you can clamp these 2 cables together while you solder then do so as it can be tricky. If not get someone to help you.
13. Heat both parts together and add extra solder to join both parts. Leave to cool/set then slide black rubber over the joint and tape closed.
14. Using the same method as you have just carried out, peel back some of the black covering to expose the silver looking copper. scrape away carefully a section to expose the copper and tin with solder.
15. Strip around about 15mm off insulation from the other end of the cable and tin with solder.
16. Clamp these to sections together or get a friend to hold.
17. Apply heat from the solder iron and add extra solder to get a good connection. Leave to cool and set and then tape exposed joint.
18. Plugging the cable back in and test window to make sure it now works. This can be tested by boiling a kettle and letting it sit in your car.
19. Once you have confirmed the window heater works unplug and reroute the cable so it is kept as far away from the wiper bars as possible. Reconnect the plug.
20. It is now time to put the plastic trim back on.
TIP make sure the trim is fixed into the runner bar first before putting clips back on.
21. With the trim all secure and clips in place, rescuer the wiper blades. The same rule applies when putting back on as you did taking off. but push the wiper up the window.
22. Job Complete.
dougies st
[quote name='ajt' timestamp='1318439726' post='148245']

At 2.32 in your video I believe I can see the clip that the wire should be clipped into on your car, its slightly obscured by the wire that goes through the bonnet hinge, in horizontal alignment with the wiper post and wiper fixing bolt. It looks as if it has not been fitted right.

[b]It is not a design fault.[/b]

If you use this clip then the cable seems to get crushed by the plastic trim and bonnet. Not enough to damage the cable but enough for it to discolour and stretch the insulation. This clip is meant for thinner cables that you see on the driver side. This would be used on left hand models I presume
dougies st
[quote name='ajt' timestamp='1318364759' post='148114']
Is the foil strip the return (-ve) or power(+ve)?

just to inform the foil strip is a thin copper strip with a covering applied ( gives the foil look )
this has to be scraped off to apply a solder so the cable gets a secure connection
This has got to be quick, as I've got to go back to work.

My drivers side FSH has just failed, and I'm gonna look at this foil strip.

I can't help but thinking, but wouldn't the only way this could be fixed cheaply was if your windscreen got damaged, and you paid the excess for a new one?

That fix described above looks like hell on earth to me.
dougies st
hey dude, I did go a bit over the top with my explanation on how to fix it. but that really is a step by step on how to fix it.

I could have just said remove the plastic trims, access the copper foil and rubber block solder on a new bit of longer cable and put it all back together.

I came across a few problems that I managed to overcome, thats why I done it in so much detail.

It really is an easy fix. you can pick up a solder iron from b&q for less than 10, a bit cable, a knife and some tape.

Thanks for reading my guide dude
Back from work now, so I can go on a bit more like the grumpy middled aged man that I am.

First, thanks to the guy who made the video in the first place. Despite the "rear" windscreen bit I understood everything you meant. A very nice explanation.

Second, thanks to Dougie for the quick response. Well done mate for fixing yours. The reasons I can't do it myself are;

[*]I'm over 50, and can't see anything close up
[*]I've got fingers like jumbo sausages

I might be able to find a mate, or a mate's son who could have a go. I guess even if you fail it's no loss, as it doesn't work anyway (I should add here that I haven't actually checked the foil strip yet, as it's pitch black out there, and I can't afford a house with a drive, let alone a garage. But if it isn't I'll bare my ar*e in Binns window).

I've got a mate at work who's got a 55 plate Fiesta, and he told me his drivers side FSH had packed in. Is this the same problem?

Can you get banned from these forums for saying you hate Ford?

I've had this Focus since it was a year old with 7500 on the clock. I had to have a new clutch last year at 35000 miles. What's that all about?

Plus my daughter's got an 04 Ka she's had for 3 years. Don't get me started on that. Let's just say the raw materials and the build quality aren't the best.

Wow I feel really great now I've got that of my chest.

Think I'll go outside and put a big chip in the screen, and get a new one on the excess. Or maybe Ford could replace it free of charge as it's obviously a design fault.

Once I'mm 100% sure it's the foil strip, I'm gonna take back to the dealer for his "expert" diagnosis, or to Autoglass who put a replacement in 18 months ago to see what they say. I'll play dumb tho.

Ta Ta for now
dougies st
I wouldn't trust their "expert" diagnosis as far as I could chuck them.

I had my car 6 months took it to a " good " ford dealer, They took it in in the morning, I phoned up at 3pm to see how it was getting on, The girl said I will go check etc. So she comes back and says MR Millar the dash has been taken out of the car and we are testing your window so I don't think you will get the car back today. 35mins later I get a call Mr Millar your car is ready to pick up !

2 weeks after that I get a call from the ford team. Mr Millar unfortunately we wont be repairing your car under warranty as you had the window replaced and its not a genuine ford part. So hands up to them they got me on that one ( it was replaced by the previous owner ) I asked the guy how they would check the window etc and he said all they do is check the window is a ford part. If it is then they replace the window most of the time they get auto glass in so make sure it has the ford logo on it !

fortunately I'm an electrician so I know how to fix these kinds of things. If you get someone who is handy with a solder iron then the fix is very easy. If you follow that step by step it really isnt hard, you dont need to do anything more
It isn't a genuine Ford part as far as I'm aware (the replacement w/screen).

None of this surprises me about Ford. When I had the clutch replaced the car was out of warranty anyway but I thought I'd ask. The guy at the service desk said "clutches aren't covered by Ford warranty. If want a warranty like that you need to buy a Mercedes or a Saab or something like that!!!!!!"

What devotion to the badge.
dougies st
since your out of warenty you have no chance really.

If you know a young electrician who is interested in cars im sure he could fix it for you folling the guide.

I have fixed a good few up by my way. I do it in their drive or out on the street.

Your clutch, I guess its a wear and tear part so wont be coverd under warenty ? unless it went really quick once you got the car? but the way I see it... a good quality built car should not need a new clutch before 3 years :P
Guess what? My drivers side quiclear is kaput also... (does this mean that LHD versions pack up on their drivers side also?) Thanks to the confidence given in the repair guide, i'll take a look at the ribbon this saturday and report back... I'll tell you what though... I'll bet you a spicy pot noodle that if i can manage to fix it, then the weather will suddenly, and miraculously turn mild! :angry:
Thanks to Dougies ST (for the heads up) And my mate, (for his soldering skills) Both sides of my heated front screen now work B)

I thought i'd drop a few piccies onto this thread for the sake of top up info...

Plug to heated screen removed, end stripped, and extention cable in situ


Plug going to the "copper" ribbon removed and being soldered onto an extension piece of cable (so the "ribbon" is long enough to re-route later)


One of the trickier bits of this otherwise pretty simple repair is the soldering on the repair cable to the ribbon...The bonnet getsd in the way when it's open, so we popped the bonnet down, protected it, and soldered the extension to the ribbon (tricky) The cable end was splayed as much as possible to help simulate the width of the ribbon....



Once soldered, heat shrinked, then loomed for good measure, the cable and ribbon is now long enough to re-route under the wiper motor mechanism out of harms way... So with luck, this repair SHOULD be permanent.... Having said that, the ribbon still had to be cable tied right up under the bulkhead to keep it away from that pesky chafing wiper mechanism...Fingers crossed for a long term repair....

Screen working B)

Still a *wee* bit confused about this fault and fix.

So, am I right to believe that the fault develops NOT in the ribbon itself, but in the wire which connects to the ribbon? And that the fix is to leave the ribbon intact and simply cut out and replace (via soldering) the wire connecting to the ribbon with a longer one?

Seems strange to me that the fault develops in the wire when the chafing action appears to happen on the ribbon and not the wire (according to the video in the first post, anyway).

I haven't yet taken the wipers etc off to have a look at what the problem with mine is, but I'm assuming its the same issue the rest of you are having, as it's the same symptoms (driver's side windscreen heating failing, passenger's side fine).

Thanks in advance for anybody who can clarify!
[quote name='Bigdaddycain' timestamp='1329644370' post='167556'].[/quote]
[quote name='dougie st'].[/quote]

Anyone? (Above post).
my car has just developed this fault and i have removed the covers etc to find the ribbon has ripped but unfortunately it is very close to where the ribbon joins the screen so its hard to get to. can the ribbon be removed from the windscreen? has anyone had any joy out of complaining to ford?

UPDATE: I thought I would chance my arm and call the company that installed my new windscreen in January this year. They are now going to replace the whole screen under warranty! HAPPY DAYS! Excellent customer service!

No soldering for me this time!

I've got a Fiesta ST 2007 and was hoping dougie's instructions would sort my windscreen issue too, however, I fell at step 7 when removing the plastic trim didn't expose the windscreen wiper bars.  :o( I guess the Fiesta is too different. There was a big plate in the way, and I couldn't see the ribbon or wire, or connection. The plate looked way too complicated for me to start trying to remove. Has anyone successfully carried out this fix on a Fiesta ST??

Captain Haddock



Unless a 2007 Fiesta ST has a totally different windscreen and wiring layout from the Mk6.5 Fiesta I had then you'll find the connections to a heated front windscreen on a Mk6 (or facelift Mk6.5) behind the plastic A-pillar trim panels inside the car.  There's one connection each side located about halfway down the pillar.


If I remember correctly then the driver's side is the +12V feed and the passenger side has the earthing bolt.  The rear washer pipe goes up the left hand (passenger) pillar and the radio aerial lead goes up the right hand (driver) pillar; can't remember which side the courtesy light wiring is though.



Hi, I just wanted to say that I'm a 25yr old female, and based on the instructions given on this thread, I was able to complete this fix & now have a fully working heated windscreen in time for winter!

I was able to strip down the car correctly which took me about 5 mins.
I found that the ribbon connecting to the windscreen had been torn in 2 places by the constant battering from the wiper arm, which when I touched, fell away completely as it was barely even still attached! (Clear to see that's why my screen hasn't been working for a while!)

I then traced the cable to back to the plug and unplugged it.

I had to trim away the rest of the damaged ribbon which was still attached to the screen, which resulted in me having about 1cm of undamaged ribbon remaining to reattach the cable to!
I carefully peeled off the copper coloured film to expose the foil ribbon in order to reattach the cable.

I extended the cable following the instructions.

Now, this is where my fix differs slightly..

I attempted to solder the cable to the 1cm of remaining foil ribbon still attached to the screen..
This failed as it was just too fiddly to do.

I had some copper adhesive tape in the garage which was actually bought as a slug deterrent from a garden centre!!
I used this tape to literally stick the exposed end of the cable to the exposed foil ribbon.
I then used electrical tape to cover the join making sure none of the copper tape was showing!

I plugged the cable back in and rerouted it out of harms way, boiled a kettle & steamed up the car, turned on the heated windscreen, and it cleared almost instantly!

So anyone that is either rubbish with soldering or doesn't have much ribbon to play with, get yourself some copper tape from the garden centre!

I would imagine that as long as a connection is formed between the cable and the ribbon, then it doesn't matter how you connect it together so much.. You could probably use any suitable tape.. But I went with the copper in the hope it would assist in conducting the current!

It's worked for me!

Thanks for everyone's tips.

Drivers side failed on mine last year, shortly after the screen got cracked. The fitter informed me it just hadn't been secured properly and was adamant if its clipped in correctly it will not fail.


Edit - Pretty sure the the new screen had longer cable and shorter ribbon too. That was made by Pilkington. Had a second screen in July made by NordGlass, same cable lengths as Pilkington one.


Well done Louise, glad to see that you managed to get a benefit from the guide!


I know who to come knocking for when mine goes up the swanny ;)

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