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Full Version: 1999 Fiesta Zetec 1.25 Won't Start After Layup
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GSYJackal
Hi guys,

I have just bought a 1999 Fiesta Zetec 1.25, 37k miles but not been used for several years.

Fresh battery today and fresh fuel, I expected it to fire up but no. Turns over fine but won't start. Red light on by clock whilst cranking. I haven't yet checked for a spark but wondering if anyone can give me some tips on where to start and what to check for?

Last service was 2000 miles ago, previous battery was a long time flat.

Any advice appreciated,
btmaldon
If the red light is on, it must be an immobiliser issue. The key transponder may not be being recognized.
GSYJackal
Ok, red light goes out after a few seconds and with some 'engine start' squirted in she starts and runs for a few seconds so immobiliser, spark, electrics and ECU must be ok...

I reckon it has to be a fuel problem. There is a fuse under the bonnet below the windscreen on the nearside closest to the front wing which has blown and repeatedly blows. It's 10amp, could this be the fuel pump? I'm currently lacking a Haynes and there is no handbook.

I've read on other forums something about a plug that corrodes on the top of the fuel tank, can anyone advise the best way to check if that is a problem? I'm happy to cut a hole for access under the rear seat rather than drop the tank as that would seem a big job.

The car was working prior to layup for 2 years outside so corrosion could be a likely problem.

Any pointers on the fuel system appreciated, as currently I'm not too sure how to check if the fuel pump is working. There is a whine after turning the key which would suggest it's priming. Prior to key turn the fuse was ok. Blew whilst priming. Having tried another fuse after priming but before cranking, the fuse was ok until cranking. Any ideas?

Thanks guys.
GSYJackal
Ok, in case anyone will find this useful here is how I sorted my car:

Fuse under bonnet nearest to nearside front wing is a 10amp which kept blowing. This is because the fuel pump motor had burnt out.

How to check? You'll still get a click and pinging noise from under the bonnet when you turn the key which is the fuel pump relay near the fuse. You'll hear it with the bonnet up on the nearside. You need to lift the back seat and pull up the rubber gromitt and listen for a buzz from the fuel pump, if there is nothing and the fuse is blowing suspect the pump. If the fuel pump is not buzzing and the fuse is ok there is a button under the passenger side door pillar which can be pressed through an access hole. This will reset the inertia switch which could trigger after an accident or perhaps very heavy breaking.

I decided not to remove the fuel tank as it is a big and messy job without a ramp, and my car wouldn't back up one either.. I was also concerned if corroded I wouldn't get it back in.

I removed the back seat base, just three screws and took a Dremel and cut a flap under the back seat from where the fuel pump electrics go through toward the nearside passenger door around 200mm long and across to peel back access. Be careful not to cut deep under the seat as the fuel lines run under there, you can see where they are if you look through.

Once you have access pull off the metal cip holding on the electrical connector and pull that free. You can run a feed from a 12V battery at this point to check before removal. The coloured purple and orange wire is the live, and black the ground. No buzzing no pump.

You will need to squeeze the connectors together on each side of the fuel lines and keep pressed in to pull of the fuel lines. They are hard to get off.

Once removed a hammer and chisel or similar will tap the ring off around the top of the fuel pump housing. Anti-clockwise. Tap it around until it comes loose from the lugs and lift off. Be careful not to cause any sparks!

There is also a gasket to remove and then the pump can be lifted out. It is easy to take apart. Pull off the filter at the bottom, doesn't matter if it breaks as the new electric motor comes with a new one. Wiggle the motor out of the chassis. Keep the rubber at the base. I cut the metal clip off the top of the pump supplying the fuel line with a Dremel. Disconnect the electrical connector and it's out. Ford quoted me £300+ for a new fuel pump, a local motor spares £140. I ordered a new fuel pump motor from Ebay for £35 delivered. There are two for this car so check you are ordering the correct one for your engine.

Install is the reversal of removal, don't forget to prime your new pump once installed by turning the ignition key several times before you start. Check for leaks around the fuel lines and around the gasket. Don't forget to change your fuse if that blew prior to removal.

In all it's not as hard a job as would seem and with some basic tools and a Dremel or grinder you could do it in an hour.

Hope this is helpful to someone as I had to search through many different Forums, websites, and UTube to get enough info to tackle the job myself.

Car started first time after 2 years. Good luck.


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