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Full Version: Focus 2007 1.8 Tdci - Slowly Falling Apart?
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mkelbie
Looking for some experienced help with my focus as I am in a position now where I either just get rid of continue with diagnosising/repairing faults.

I have owned the car since beginning of this year and got it from a family friend who put the initial 60K on it and I have got it to 87K.

Some repairs I expect as they are serviceable parts but they all add up and the cost is getting a concern now.

Problems;

I had an issue with my handbrake, sometimes the cable felt like there was no tension but I live on a hill and every morning my car was still at the top. I needed new pads so opted for discs and pads all round see if that helped with the handbrake problem. It did initially but now some morning my back wheels are locked on for a split second and I don't know if it is still the same problem or the cold weather.

The outlet pipe on my turbo split and I bought the replacement from fords which they would only sell in 2 parts. Anyway I replaced that and it seems to of sorted that but now the second rubber pipe which joins the metal pipe with the sensor keeps coming loose no matter how much I tighten the clip. Before I replaced this part I had a whistling noise which was the ripped pipe. This noise stopped once replaced (few weeks ago) but now I have another noise which sounds like a swooshing or electric car noise. Hard to describe but I can't pin point it. Upon hearing this noise I have been driving listening to anything and everything and found more problems :(

I can hear like a distant train noise which is a belt or something that may be loose? Not sure what this is nor do Fords. There is no power loss or any issues with the cars driving but it does concern me so not sure if anyone has any suggestions. I called the AA out about both noises and he took my car for a drive and came back with no engine problems but a wheel bearing sounds faulty and recommended I get a second opinion.

Took it to kwik fit on my way home yesterday, he drove the car said no issues with my bearings but my air box was loose. Went to fords who also said no issues with bearings but I need a full new airbox as the bottom clips wasn't holding the screws in place.

I am looking at getting a second hand airbox and replacing it myself but not sure if its even worth it as it seems its going to be fault after fault from now. I have serviced my car twice this year already and it will be getting a 3rd if I keep it but looking for feedback of experienced owners. I do a lot of miles and given its close to 90K now should I let it go or will the problems I am having be easy fixes and plenty of life left in my car. Don't want to continue spending money on a car which end is closer than expected.

I know next big spend is timing belt, not sure on cost but ideally if can get it serviced with a new air box fitted(salvage) then all its due then is the belt I will be happy if the car can at least last me another 2 years (avg 22k a year).

Sorry for the long post but its been a nightmare and want to give as much info as possible so you lot can advise as best as you can.


Thanks
Steve
Hi Mate and welcome to the club

My suggestion would be to break up each issue and post them in the Focus section. Clear titles. You may find you will get a better results and answers mate.
mkelbie
I will have to investigate it further and try take it 1 step at a time. Will just order this air box and see how it goes from there.

Do anyone recommend extended warranties? AA are trying to upgrade my cover and also been told about Warranty Direct; more expensive but covers a lot more.
mkelbie
Can an Admin move this too correct section please
NorthSussex
[color=#0000ff][size=5][font=comic sans ms,cursive]The hand brake sticking on for a second then pinging off with a clunk is normal, it's just a bit of rust forming on the rear discs, that's providing your car has discs on the rear.[/font] [font=comic sans ms,cursive] Number 1 problem solved I hope.[/font][/size][/color] <_<
cragger89
I had the AA breakdown cover which worked as a warranty. I paid £25 a month whilst owning a BMW and it was a lifesaver because the car was a lemon.

Eventually as can be seen from my profile I replaced it with a much more modern and younger focus and am very pleased I have done so.

If you do a lot of miles (which you are) I personally would get the AA breakdown cover as well, but be warned, you pay an excess each time it is used and I promise you, the AA will not pay 100% of each repair bill. It is better than nothing, but if you're having trivial problems, I wouldn't bother with the AA cover as you could be spending an extra £25 every month for no reason. If you can do the repairs yourself, I definitely would not bother with an extended warranty.
mkelbie
[quote name='NorthSussex' timestamp='1355323446' post='220778']
[color=#0000FF][size=5][font=comic sans ms,cursive]The hand brake sticking on for a second then pinging off with a clunk is normal, it's just a bit of rust forming on the rear discs, that's providing your car has discs on the rear.[/font] [font=comic sans ms,cursive] Number 1 problem solved I hope.[/font][/size][/color] <_<
[/quote] Yes it has discs on the rear and they are only a few months old. Thanks for cross 1 off my list :)
mkelbie
[quote name='cragger89' timestamp='1355330848' post='220786']
I had the AA breakdown cover which worked as a warranty. I paid £25 a month whilst owning a BMW and it was a lifesaver because the car was a lemon.

Eventually as can be seen from my profile I replaced it with a much more modern and younger focus and am very pleased I have done so.

If you do a lot of miles (which you are) I personally would get the AA breakdown cover as well, but be warned, you pay an excess each time it is used and I promise you, the AA will not pay 100% of each repair bill. It is better than nothing, but if you're having trivial problems, I wouldn't bother with the AA cover as you could be spending an extra £25 every month for no reason. If you can do the repairs yourself, I definitely would not bother with an extended warranty. I will always have a go at basic repairs but I don't even know what is wrong with my car at the moment.
[/quote]
I have Home Start cover free with my bank, but after calling them out they are trying to sell me a more expensive package. £140 on top of what the bank pays them gets me warranty repair + the cover that takes you home no matter how far away you are. I have printed off and read the T&Cs for the warranty repair and it doesn't seem to be very good. I thought get that then log the electrical fault with the Rev counter get a new cluster; not covered. Bearings; not fully covered and then finally the unknown problem which AA said alternator but I think fly wheel or something along those lines again not covered.
Steve
i have moved this to the correct section
artscot79
For one sticky rears in the colds common
The dash going up when started means its in dash test mode which means the battery is faulty likely a faulty cell
2nd hand airbox will solve that issue
mkelbie
Battery seems fine, its only the rev needle that is up. And it stays like that. It shows like 6000rpm at idle. I will get the battery tested but I think its the cluster, tempted to try take it out and force the needle back to correct place.

Going to get the 2nd hand airbox see what that does to help.

Thanks a lot.
Pitmonster
Sticky rear brakes first thing in the morning is common with rear discs

Happens to me when it rains - the water causes a very light surface corrosion on the disc, and this makes the rear brakes stick as you pull away from rest the first time. Slow down a few times and the friction cleans the discs and sorts it all out

I would imagine you are experiencing a similar thing. Cold weather causes condensation to form on the discs, which freezes and causes the sticking.

It nothing to worry about and perfectly normal.
cragger89
Yup. the AA breakdown cover is not really that great. I managed to get a leak sorted by telling the AA that my BMW's coolant level light came on when I got home and the engine bay was soaked in coolant. What had actually happened is, the water expansion bottle had failed leaking slowly and I had no cash to do the repair myself. So I made it look worse and got the AA to sort it.

Ended up getting the radiator and the expansion tank replaced which totalled about £300.00 - I only had to pay 65 quid. Of course, I'd been paying £25 a month for nearly a year, so really, I broke even.
talksy
[quote name='mkelbie' timestamp='1355310078' post='220741']


Heating; sometimes when I turn it on there's what I can only describe as a squeaky noise coming from the fans. Again not sure if this is the weather but the pressure on my fans doesn't seem to be as good.


[/quote]

Hi, I can help with this. I had the same problem on my 2009 tdci. Lucikily under warranty. Ford had it for a week. Got it back and squeeking was still there. It was worse the more the fan was blowing ie speeds 3 and 4 and was much more noticable on full heat.

Took it back to Ford again, they had it for 2 more weeks, had to remove both driver doors, the entire dash, replaced heating matrix, fan motor, regassed air con.. I think you get the idea, it was a massive job. I would learn to live with it. I was lucky my warranty covered it or I would have left it.

My squeeking used to come from the passenger side. Hope that helps.

You have had a lot of hose and pipe leaks is this common? I wouldn't have expected them to just break or split seeing as they are under the bonnet and wouldn't get knocked or brushed that often. Can any one on here suggest why this might be?
mkelbie
The only pipe that has split was off the turbo. Pressure over time causes that, few posts on here have all said its a common fault. I replaced that along with a metal pipe it attaches too. The new pipe and the old pipe joining together was a small problem, kept coming loose but I have sorted that now. Only thing I believe I need to get is new screws or replacement air filter box to make it more secure and I am good to go. Hopefully my car continues to run perfectly for me now. I am debating 3rd party warranty for peace of mind given what I thought over the last few days was going to cost me a fortune.
mkelbie
Anyone quote a few rough prices for me?

Replace and sync a new display cluster with my car. Buying a salvage speedo and want it fitting with correct mileage.

Dual mass fly wheel replacement (this is a job I am convinced is going to hit me soon)

Timing belt change

Wheel bearing replacement

Last job is a clicking noise when I turn the engine off, not sure what it is but sure someone said EGR valve related too me.

Thanks
talksy
[quote name='mkelbie' timestamp='1355684798' post='221536']
Anyone quote a few rough prices for me?

Replace and sync a new display cluster with my car. Buying a salvage speedo and want it fitting with correct mileage.




Thanks
[/quote]

I may be wrong, but I thought it was only possible to correct up. Ie if you get a replacement cluster with 45k on it, and your car has done 35k, you will not be able to have the mileage put down, it is only ever able to go up.

Would be interested on any bearing quotes as I am sure my rear bearing is on the way out and I have only had my car for around a month used from the dealer. Tempted to get in touch with them as I have platinum warranty, but I am guessing they will fob me off and say it is wear and tear, even though I have done about 1.5k since purchase!
Pitmonster
Just had my Dual Mass Flywheel replaced at my local Fird dealer.

The job involved the DMF, clutch, and hydraulic clutch slave cylinder (which does the job of the release bearing)

The price incl vat and labour plus 12 month warranty on parts & labour was 1030
mkelbie
Jesus, that's a lot :o A3 DSG was that price @ Audi.

I pray mine is fine and I don't get hit with loads @ once
Pitmonster
Did the Audi price cover all those parts, or just the DMF?

We discussed this on the forum and concluded is was a very fair price for a main dealer.

A DMF on a a mate's Shogun costs 1600.
That's just for the part - excluding labour - and just for the DMF, not the clutch
talksy
[quote name='Pitmonster' timestamp='1355698213' post='221608']
Did the Audi price cover all those parts, or just the DMF?

We discussed this on the forum and concluded is was a very fair price for a main dealer.

A DMF on a a mate's Shogun costs £1600.
That's just for the part - excluding labour - and just for the DMF, not the clutch
[/quote]

If Audis and similar cars (with regard to engine size) have failing DMFs at similar mileages/ages to a focus then yes it does sound like a fair price. But not such a fair price if the trusty focus requires DMF replacement at shorter intervals than other cars. This has had me quite worried. Every gear change and hill start I do now, I am extra careful!
mkelbie
I sold my Audi as didn't want to get it done, it had just been recalled and had all injectors replaced and maybe that price quoted was a good will for the recall. But previous to that I had it in for a DMF and they said it was fine so I questioned this quote and was told it was their opinion and they would only know once they dropped the gearbox.

It drove fine so was a big gamble to me.

When should a DMF be replaced on a focus?
Mike77
The dmf should be replaced with the clutch, so if that's on its way chances are so is the flywheel. Mine needed doing a few months back, I got the parts myself and all in all cost me about 400, and I still thought that was expensive lol. Saying all that, my car is on 111k and it was its first clutch and flywheel, so a new one will outlast most owners in terms of how long they will actually keep the car.
mkelbie
Clutch is fine on my focus like I just it was on my Audi . but i hear a similar rattle when starting and it and a tech did a start/stop sequence about a dozen times with the key for the Audi diagnosis so will try that see if I can hear it rattle when spinning up.

400 I would happily pay. I paid 300 for a fiesta clutch years ago. I am going to just get it in fords for its oil change and then ask about timing belt and DMF.

My car was only 4 years old with low mileage when I got it and I have doubled it with motorway miles so the clutch should of had an easy life. Least I hope it has
johnH
i can tell you for a fact for a 1.8tdci mk 2 cluster...revs go to 6k, and has a small green screen in the middle at bottom and the two fuel and temp guages in the middle will cost around £700 at dealers for a brand new and programmed one. i broke mine so i had to get a new one and thats how much it cost.

the reason it costs so much is because part of the immo circuit goes through the speedo and the keys will need reprogramming for it. i learnt all this the hard way! lol

you can get your clutch and dmf done far cheaper if you source the parts and ring a few local garages up and play them off each other to price beat. i can remember when my clutch went in my peugeot. cost £130 or so for all the parts and another £120 labour...they tend to give loads of discount if you offer to pay cash in hand etc.
mkelbie
Can I not get a salvage 1 and get it fitted and programmed cheap? I have seen them for 50-150. Anymore than that I will just put up with it.
johnH
you could, but you would need to find one with less mileage than yours. that does not have the same issues as what you are getting. you will also need to pay a ford dealer a visit to get them to reprogram the immobiliser and keys as well as the BSI etc. just not a simple plug and play im afraid.

does the needle sit at just below 0 when the engine is off? if so i would begin to look at the circuit that powers the rev needle. it could be a fact the sensor or wiring is knackered and will be a far cheaper alternative.
johnH
and from past experience finding a decent salvage one thats has less mileage and in better nick is like looking for hens teeth.
mkelbie
No it sits at a random spot, I have technically fixed it now. Basically it went round to 5 or 6 and that was where it stayed, start engine it would jump another number then move with the revs and stay that way.

I remove it to try check wiring and cracked the plastic, stuck a piece of wire in and pushed the needle back to 0. Been working fine ever since and glued the small crack so I'm happy for now
mkelbie
Just been on the phone with ford customer relations.

Stressed my concern with 2 issues on my ford; the display speedo cluster & timing belt change.

Was told that there isn't a common fault with the display cluster and they only go off ford repairs/diagnosis not forums or independent garages to which I replied ford are not going to have a record as most people will react like myself and refuse to pay the 600+ replacement cluster and labour charge with fords therefore no recorded repairs.

2nd issue was my car was serviced and was advised timing belt and pulley is fine plus other issues I had a concern about like a wheel bearing and DMF. I asked what happens if I take fords recommendation, eg the 125k/10yr timing belt advise and it snaps. Was told its only a guide to which I said but independent garages recommend 80K which is a big difference and again was advised they only go of fords guidance so back to my original question; what happens if I take fords advice and they are wrong.

She is speaking to a technical manager and told me I will be contacted before end of working day Friday. Interesting to see if they help with either issue, guessing I shouldn't hold my breath.


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