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Full Version: Mondeo Mk4 Change Rear Wheel Bearings Hubs
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MrAntD
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I recently changed both rear wheel bearings/hubs and hope this post helps others, as it was quite hard to get tips apart from using my Haynes....[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Apart from the usual spanners and sockets, I used:[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]T55 1/2" socket (used a 1/4" and it snapped) the extra force allowed is helpful![/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]a ratchet extender - I used a steel pipe - this allowed me more control in a tight space.[/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Axle stand (so your jack can be used on the suspension if needed).[/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]A bit of string - useful for tying the calliper in various places out of the way.[/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]2x4 bit of wood a bit over 1 foot long[/font][/color]


[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Brakes - there are plenty of blogs on brakes - check them! I removed the road wheel, loosened the disc securing screw with a T50, removed the calliper, pads and then the calliper holder - this was done without removing the handbrake cable or brake fluid hose. I removed the pads so I could easily remove the calliper past the lip worn in the disc. I tied the calliper out of the way with the string. I then removed the disc securing screw and removed the disc. this was stuck on so I gave it a whack with a wooden mallet and off it came.[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Hub bearing - I needed to get better access as I was working from the side of the car, so I released the upper control arm from the hub carrier. This can be identified bolt going through a bush ion the hub carrier, control arm and holding bracket for the brake hose and cables. I used a trolley jack to hold the suspension in place and left it there throughout the hub removal and fitting process. Next I undid the top bolt on the anti-roll bar and let the suspension down using the jack.[/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Removing the star bolts was hard as they are hidden away, and I sheared the lesser 1/4" T55 socket - but with a new 1/2" T55, a short wrench extension and the steel tube on the handle, they eventually loosened .... relief....: a torch is handy to get a look at the bolts.[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Refitting was a reverse of removal, but aligning the control arm with the hub carrier was hard - the jack came in handy, a spare pair of hands and a 2X4 bit of wood knocked in between the ground and the new hub to raise it. I'm sure there are better ways of doing this....[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]The job took about 3 hours for both sides and saved £100s.[/font][/color]

lf you know of better ways of doing this than me [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]please add to this post. [/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Cheers[/font][/color]
Steve
Great post mate, welcome to the club as well!

COuld almost make a guide from your post and add to the guide section... pictures would have been really helpful for others doing the same job :)
MrAntD
Well, funny you should say that - I have got photos of the job, so I'd love to make it into a guide - can you let me know what I need to do and where to place it?

A
jeebowhite
Create a new thread and just put your instructions in there with pictures just as a step by step. one of us Mod's will move it over to an appropriate section!


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