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ambiguousrocket
Hi,

Could someone give me some advice on how to go about checking the fault on my Mondeo MK3 2.0 TDCI year 2006? When I floor the accelerator even beyond 3000RPM when overtaking it goes into limp mode. When you turn the ignition off and restart, everything works well again. I've changed the fuel filter but still the same. Sometimes it happens and other times it doesn't. The car went berserk once, engine went revving with loads of smoke and I had to turn the ignition off. Then came all this problem few days later. Could it be the glow plugs?

Please advise on what to do

Thanks!
jeebowhite
Welcome Along!

check the fuel filter hasn't been put in back to front, and when you changed the filter, did you replace the housing seals too? sounds like it could be air in the fuel lines to one extent,

The issue with going berserk, sounds more like the TPS hadnt returned, so it thought you had your foot down through the floor, or perhaps the pedal got stuck. wont be anything to do with the glow plugs specifically...
ambiguousrocket
Hi,

Thank you for your suggestions. No o-rings were changed when I changed the filter. I think you may have a point here with regards to air in the system. I will go about checking it today.

Thank you and will keep you informed on the outcome!

Many thanks.
jeebowhite
no problem. look forward to hearing some good news!
stef123
Is your mondeo the same as mine, it uses a canister fuel filter? There isn't really much to go wrong with them to be honest.

You will need to get the codes read otherwise you are just having a stab in the dark.

ambiguousrocket
Hi,

Yeah mate, your Mondeo is the same as mine. I will change the fuel filter one more time and check the o-rings as suggested by jeebowhite and see how it goes. If it still happens then I suppose I'll have to get the codes read.Couldn't get around to it just now as it was blithering cold. Will keep you guys informed.

Cheers
ambiguousrocket
Hi, I changed the fuel filter to a genuine one. I checked the o-ring, there was only one and it seemed ok. After I put in the new filter, I revved the engine for a good 1 minute hoping any trapped air would dispserse. Took the car down the motorway, thrashed the bugger and it was top notch. Fingers crossed it will remain this way. Will keep you guys posted. Cheers
jeebowhite
Glad to hear its worked for you Basil, look forward to positive results.
FOCA
[quote name='ambiguousrocket' timestamp='1361983165' post='239406']
Hi, I changed the fuel filter to a genuine one. I checked the o-ring, there was only one and it seemed ok. After I put in the new filter, I revved the engine for a good 1 minute hoping any trapped air would dispserse. Took the car down the motorway, thrashed the bugger and it was top notch. Fingers crossed it will remain this way. Will keep you guys posted. Cheers
[/quote]

The glow plugs are only used to start the engine, and should have no effect once the engine is warmed up

The variable vanes on the turbo can coke up, which can cause exessive boost pressure as the VNT (variable nozzle turbo) controls the boost via the electronic or pnumatic actuator,the exessive boost pressure is liable to occur at high revs/ load and can trigger limp home mode. "thrashing" it can help to clear the coking up a bit and loosen off the vanes

The other thing that can cause similar symptoms is the EGR valve, this can be intermittent as well as the valve can stick then un-sieze

Its a good idea to get your falt codes read/ invest in a code reader, without the codes its just guessing really

If it is reduced fuel pressure causing the EML/ limp home mode the new filter will have sorted it, generally a genuine/ quality filter flows fuel better than a cheap pattern one

On a Euro 4 Mondeo mk3 often the power can drop off above 3.5k/ or peak power is at 3.5k, if this is the case it means there is no point in revving it past this and you may accelerate faster and get a better consumption if you change up at 3.5k when you are "in a hurry" rather than revving it out all the way to the redline, untill you are in top (on an autobann - of course!) it seems counter- intuative and redlining it may give the illusion of going/ accelerating faster - but some of us have even timed these things (depends on the exact engine/ power curve)
ambiguousrocket

Hello, the car is still running top notch. What you have mentioned makes a lot of sense and I'm thinking of buying a fault code reader - any particular one could you recommend? There are so many on eBay and Amazon that I don't know which one to go for.

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Maxiscan-Diagnostic-Scanner-Reader-MS300/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1362082432&sr=1-1

 

Is this the one I should be going for?

 

Thank you

FOCA

Hello, the car is still running top notch. What you have mentioned makes a lot of sense and I'm thinking of buying a fault code reader - any particular one could you recommend? There are so many on eBay and Amazon that I don't know which one to go for.

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Maxiscan-Diagnostic-Scanner-Reader-MS300/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1362082432&sr=1-1

 

Is this the one I should be going for?

 

Thank you

You may have an OBD1 compatible car,(not OBD2) OBD2 did not become manditory on diesels untill 2004,(petrol = 2000) the plug/ device will phisically plug in but it may not be electronically compatible/ may not "pick up" the codes 

 

The only code readers i know work with pre 2004 cars are the F-super and the Ford- compatible superchips bluefin BF-005T

 

Thats if your Mondeo is 2001 as in your profile, if its 2006 as in your post, any Ford- compatible (there are 4 different widly-used protocols) OBD11 reader will be ok (even if your exact car is not listed if it lists a lot of Fords its probably OK on post 2004 diesels and post 2000 petrol cars)    

ambiguousrocket

It's 2006 Year mate. Sorry. Thanks for the info. I will buy one today. Cheers.

ambiguousrocket

Hello mate, the Maxiscan Diagnostic Scanner OBD2 MS300 says "NO CODES" on the screen when I plugged it in. The engine was running and even not running shows NO CODES. Should the management engine light be on before it can give us any codes because my car doesn't show any warning lights.

 

Please inform soon.

 

Thank you

Cheers

FOCA

Im not familiar with the device, ive looked at it online and it claims to have the Ford protocols, but it may have to be setup/ programmed for these protocols and "generic OBD2" may be the default setting, you will just have to read through the instructions

 

there is a CD rom with the scanner, that may just be the PDF manual or it might have the ford protocols on  

 

Update - you put the cd rom in your pc - and the programme tells you what the fault codes (dtc) mean

 

is the machine lighting up? - make sure its plugged in fully - you may have to push the socket and plug together because of the way it is made

 

it should do something different when you turn the ignition off/ on/ start

durv Cymru
Hi Basil

I too had a limp mode problem when accelerating. The red 'cog' engine stop lamp would light up rather than the amber engine management light. My code reader is unable to read the faults associated with the red 'cog' only the EML when illuminated.

Worth going to the garage to read the cached fault code/s then tackling the cause if necessary. The diagnosis on mine was EGR valve which I've subsequently blanked off.

Best of luck
stef123

Hello mate, the Maxiscan Diagnostic Scanner OBD2 MS300 says "NO CODES" on the screen when I plugged it in. The engine was running and even not running shows NO CODES. Should the management engine light be on before it can give us any codes because my car doesn't show any warning lights.

 

Please inform soon.

 

Thank you

Cheers

yes the warning light is indicating there is a fault and that a code has been registered

ambiguousrocket

Im not familiar with the device, ive looked at it online and it claims to have the Ford protocols, but it may have to be setup/ programmed for these protocols and "generic OBD2" may be the default setting, you will just have to read through the instructions

 

there is a CD rom with the scanner, that may just be the PDF manual or it might have the ford protocols on  

 

Update - you put the cd rom in your pc - and the programme tells you what the fault codes (dtc) mean

 

is the machine lighting up? - make sure its plugged in fully - you may have to push the socket and plug together because of the way it is made

 

it should do something different when you turn the ignition off/ on/ start

 

Yeah mate, everything is fully plugged in. It automatically detects the used protocols and attempts to read for codes. I know it's fully plugged in because it also displays the VIN number of my car, but it's just not coming up with any codes. The car still runs very well but I suspect there must be a fault somewhere. It could be an intermittent fault. I think the best thing is I'll bring it into the workshop and have it properly diagnosed with a better fault code reader.

 

The problem with these workshops is they ask you to change this change that change everything and the car is still not working in tip top condition. I've experienced this before with my other cars. I will inform you of what the workshop tells me. Thank you so much for your tips and advice.

 

 

Hi Basil

I too had a limp mode problem when accelerating. The red 'cog' engine stop lamp would light up rather than the amber engine management light. My code reader is unable to read the faults associated with the red 'cog' only the EML when illuminated.

Worth going to the garage to read the cached fault code/s then tackling the cause if necessary. The diagnosis on mine was EGR valve which I've subsequently blanked off.

Best of luck

 

So it is possible to blank off the EGR valve and the car runs very well? I'll bring it into the workshop but like I mentioned to FOCA these workshops, they ask you to change all kinds of things and the fault is still there. They are basically robbing you.

 

yes the warning light is indicating there is a fault and that a code has been registered

 

There is no warning light at the moment but there was a warning light, it seems to have disappeared. The flashing warning light was the glow plug light. The fault code reader I bought maybe is not so good.

 

Thanks

Tony no1

Thats great all makes alot sense, How much are you selling the "blue Fin" for?

Thanks again, hope to hear, Tony.

FOCA

Thats great all makes alot sense, How much are you selling the "blue Fin" for?

Thanks again, hope to hear, Tony.

I was wanting to get £60 for it, and £10 P+P (tracked, signed for)

FOCA

It's 2006 Year mate. Sorry. Thanks for the info. I will buy one today. Cheers.

Hello again, the 2006 Mondeo TDCI is probably Euro4, if so the EML will come on if you fit a blanking plate - but this can be reset with a code reader

 

I recommend a solid stainless steel plate, mild steel can rust, aluminium can melt (EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation) ones with holes are literally a waste of time (and don't "fix" a faulty EGR valve)    

baitman

There is no warning light at the moment but there was a warning light, it seems to have disappeared. The flashing warning light was the glow plug light. The fault code reader I bought maybe is not so good.

this is the problem i had. its the egr valve, mate.

bladeage

Try this!!!!!!

 

Remove and clean the crank angle sensor!

 

I had this very same problem with a 2004 150 tdci estate, it would rev to 3,000 rpm ish and then just cut dead, turn the key to off and it would  restart instantly, it would even drive ok until it got to 3,000 rpm again and would then just cut out.

I had no codes etc etc so I assumed it was electrical and went for the first thing I could think of which was the crank angle sensor.

 

I took it out and found the magnet was covered in metal filings which probably came from the recent clutch change, I cleaned the filings off and   the car started and drove like a rocket again.

 

The problem was/is that the ecu is/was not getting a strong enough signal from the sensor so cuts the engine when it goes above its safe threshold for the signal it is receiving.

 

It is worth a try as you are describing exactly the same as I had!

 

P.S. I had to take it out a further 2 times to clean over the next couple of months but after that it was fine!

FOCA

The crank angle sensor would have been covered in metat filings due to the (old) DMF/ clutch breaking up 

 

Good point though and worth checking especially if the DMF has/ is breaking up  

 

Another good reason for fitting a solid flywheel  

 

In my opinion, fitting an EGR blanking plate first is a good idea because it eliminates the EGR as the source of the problem and it only costs about £5 for the plate , its easy to fit on a mk3 Mondeo and the car will run a bit better with the EGR blanked (a win - win situation)  

mintalkin

you may be having trouble with the code reader because diesels were not obd2 untill 2004.

FOCA

you may be having trouble with the code reader because diesels were not obd2 untill 2004.

The OPs car is 2006 - it says 2001 in his profile -

FOCA

It's 2006 Year mate. Sorry. Thanks for the info. I will buy one today. Cheers.

See - 2006 so fully OBDII compliant



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