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Fockus

Hi, new to the forum but have search and cannot find the exact problem i'm having.

 

I'v recently bought a mk2 focus 1.8 tdci from my brother. Someone crashed into him around a year ago but he was told the car was fit to drive, so he continued to drive it for around a month. But after a month the turbo went and he decided not to fix it until he found out what was going on with the insurance. Anyway he got paid out the money for the repair and i bought the car from him.

 

So i fitted a new turbo to the car and fitted a new battery. I went to turn it over after fitting the turbo and it wouldn't turn over. I check for power to the starter when cranking and it wasn't getting any power. I then checked for power to the start relay and that is getting 12v when cranking (the relay is fine) I needed another key anyway as i only had the one, so got a auto locksmith out and asked him to code the keys but still won't turn over. I'v also checked all fuses which were fine.

 

I'v noticed when you turn the ignition on the immobiliser light stays soilid for a minute, then flashes 2 times, stops and then flashes three times. Which i'v read means its code 23, anyone know what that means?

 

Any suggestions of what else to check before i get it towed to ford?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

Stoney871
Code 23 is an immobiliser code mismatch, basically the immobiliser isn't accepting the keys and not deactivating.
I'd suggest that the keys need recoding or the transponder ring around the ignition barrel is defective.
I think you need lo call another locksmith tbh.
Fockus

Ok, cheers for that. Is there any way to test the transponder ring? and can it just be replaced or does it need coding?

 

Also i forgot to mention, when i first fit the turbo. I cranked it with the old battery and charger on. I turned over but very slowly. I left it on charge and when i went back to it the alarm went off. Once the alarm stopped and you turned on the ignition the electric/ dash light started flashing on and off, some relays started clicking in the engine bay and it wouldn't turn over. The lights flashing stopped when i fit the new battery but obviously still wouldn't turn over. Not sure if all thats matters but i thought i'd mention it.

FOCA


 

Other things to watch for -

 

 If the turbo has an electronic actuator, it may have to be coded to the ECU or you may have to use the original actuator (that matches the ECU)

 

Try not to let the battery go flat and recharge it if nessesary-  if the battery is allowed to go flat/ is left flat too often (even a new one) it can F..inish it  

 

Some of these modern Fords have a smart charch electrical system and require a silver-calcium battery

 

Sounds like immobiliser issues as Stoney has said

artscot79
Agree with stoney cide 23 is pats key mismatch either the key code has been lost from memory or ignition rings gone the other issue sounds as if its indeed the wrong battery also you shouldnt leave battery and charger connected when cranking the ecu will detect a low battery and put a lot of volts up to 18v the feedback can blow ecu diodes all fords use smartcharge in fact most cars do just not like fords
Fockus

Cheers for the help so far but im still having issues.

 

I'v spoken to the guy that coded the keys, he says hes done plenty of ford keys and is confident that the keys are coded correctly. He said he could come back out but i'd be charged a £40 call out charge if it turned out not to be a problem with the keys.

 

So does any one know any way of testing the ignition ring? and if i was to fit a new/second hand one would it need coding? 

 

Also is it only the keys, transponder ring or wiring that could cause the immobiliser issue/code? or is there anything else worth checking? 



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