I have a problem when I try to put it in first or reverse on a cold morning, I have to put it in a higher gear then change back to first or reverse whichever direction I am going....this only happens when it is freezing cold outside.
mate,i have a feeling we've both got same problem.check the gear stick mechanism. im replacing mine tomorrow hopefully,with part of a mondy broke for spares,so will let u knopw how i got on.
I also had same additional problem that youve got,but once dmf was renewed it disappeared.but now i have bad downshift when cold,so Id also check your gear stick mechanism. The little plastic bush( inch long towards left side of ball) is really slack on mines,so im sure its stopping the side to side movement being effective,as that little plastic part doesnt slide backwards/forwards properly until its been warmed a little i think due to friction.I might be wrong,but a hell of a lot of mondeo owners complain about the same problem,and Ive never ever saw a reply concerning this little plastic part.I hope im right.
I am not really having the big problems you are having, and I actually thought it could be the mechanism freezing etc?
mine has done 105k now and when this happens, if I leave it to warm up for 30 secs it goes into gear fine, this only happens when it is really cold outside!
As stupid as this sounds........is there a warm up protection circuit for cold weather with it being a diesel? only saying this as it mainly happens on mine when the orange and red cold weather lights appear on the dashboard......when the lights appear, it is either hard or impossible to select first or reverse until the engine has been running for 30+ seconds, then it will select first or reverse easily!
i've just changed gearsticks,& need to line the cable up in morning,so wont know if its any better til then.
Didnt realise that yours wont go INTO 1st or reverse.That does sound like you have a bad clutch/dmf. Its the 1st & reverse gears that you have problems with to start off with. I had that problem as well as the problem downshifting to 2nd,but my 1st/2nd was cured after dmf/clutch change.
also the mechanism on gearbox wont freeze,unless theres water in there,which IS possible if water seeps thru the edges of the plate on top of box with selector.but uncommon.It can happen so Ive been told if someones had the selector tower off it,put it back & not put proper sealant in between tower plate & box.(so ive been told) :rolleyes:
It is possible that a dragging clutch can make it difficult to engage gears
I find i have no problem at all with this, probably due to retro-fitting a carbon & kevlar clutch with 30% higher clamping force, sprung plate with solid flywheel (no DMF) (it is possible the DMF introduces co-axial play ("slop" along the axis of the clutch) as well as radial play- even a slight amount of play could be significant/ could encourage clutch drag)
try putting it into gear when the engine is off/ not turning is there still a problem?
the syncromesh may need a little help and double de-clutching may help
or it could be it the gearbox/ oil just needs a bit of warming up -
(From an expert, elswhere on the forum) -
Its a strange 1. It goes into every gear up the gears ok,but when slowing down to say 5mph(or slowing at junction)& then try to get 2nd from 3rd,thats when the problem rears its head. I'm starting to think it IS the baulk ring on 2nd gear thats knackered.Tried everything just about,new cables,dmf,clutch,slave,replacement box & its still doing it.i know i know,the chances of getting another box with same problem(70k) isnt unheard of but id say unlikely.Therefore Im starting to think the mmt6 box is crap til as you say the oil heats up.sickening,& the car's a 2007 as well. good ol ford. Im gonna jack her up tomorrow just to see if its dragging but i dont think it is.
When youre driving 1st thing in morning,soon after youve started the car,can you downshift from 3rd straight into 2nd without hesitation at all? Spoke to taxi driver with mondy mk3,& he says boxes are crap til heated up also,& his wont downshift easily either.
Nearly ready to sell this at auction in few days if i cant get to the bottom of this.annoying as hell
its the ONLY car Ive ever had that does this kinda thing
Yes, the syncromesh/ baulk rings in 2nd gear is often the 1st to go, because of the amount of use it gets (changing down into 2nd for junctions etc)
the mmt6 can be a bit soft, (apparently) especially with the torque output of the diesels, (the 2.2 diesel is restricted in 1st and 2nd - its the torque that can break them, more than the power)
Ive had problems with Rover, Honda and Nissan gearboxes, i used to be quite hard on them, these days i mostly "nurse" the g-box along (i think it depends a lot on the driver/ driving style)
try removing the drivers floor mat under the clutch pedal- this can enable the pedal to be pushed further, if it is dragging a little
its not dragging anyway. Got in touch with Alpine transmissions today,& the guy asked if I put the ford spec oil in.I said i did.He said "Take it out,& put 10w-40 in it. If synchro's are worn,they will NOT engage properly with ford's 75-90. The 10-40 is sort of an equivelent to 75-90 but works differently,& is thinner"
Ive changed oil.Will wait to see in morning if its anybetter when really cold.
Failing this,Im gonna take my other box to Alpine & get new 1st 2nd synchros/hubs etc.
wouldve preferred taking it somewhere closer,but that went outta the window when the guy there said that it wasnt neccesary to have the hub/synchros preloaded(ridiculous,AND this is a well known company folks).JOKE :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
When I told guy at Alpine that they didnt wanna preload em,he more or less said that folk that've taken their trannys to the place in question,will have exaclty the same problems all over again,as their synchros will NOT be set up correctly