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I thought i would start with the spec/ a list of modifications


Remaps/ etc -


Superchips Blufin rev3 remap

DTUK digital tuning box with custom remote adjust (can be used with remap, was not used on dyno run)  



Fixed vane Garrett GT20 with wastegate and pnumatic actuator

Two - stage digital driver adjustable electronic boost controller, 100psi solenoid, anti-lag programme, defeat/ fail-safe (3 effective stages)

Anti- lag/ dump valve system for actuator/ wastegate (silent)  

Overboost pressure relief valve

Mechanical boost gauge 30psi (for now)


Inlet / etc -


One-off large diameter insulated CAIS,  

Gas flowed airbox/  stock filter

Resonator bypass

EGR delete/ shortened boost hoses


Intercooler -


Lightweight alloy aftermarket performance FMIC -  low lag drag racing design (low internal volume) chosen to fit in the available space 

External waterspray


Exhaust -


2-1/2" SS heatwrapped decat -

gas flowed heatwrapped downpipe 

Back- box delete

Straight - through 2-1/4" system with centre silencer

EGR delete on manifold

9.5kgs lighter - balanced for traction/ handling

To do - ceramic coat/ heatwrap the manifold which still has the stock heatshield






Mtx75 5-speed 'box

Solid flywheel conversion, dynamically balanced SMF to replace DMF

Carbon fiber and kevlar clutch - Heavy duty - 33% stronger - sprung plate

Short shifter (stock gearstick shortened and travel reduced by repositioning the cables)

Torque restrictor defeat switch (beside gearchange)

No form of traction control / ESP protects trans from torque  (de-ristricted in all gears/ at all revs)


Various -


Parasitic loads -


Electric waterpump now with electronic control (Oct 2013)


Aircon removal (- 11kgs) including pulley/ shortened belt




Two Digital electronic fan/ pump controllers with display of voltage, oil and water temp 2 channels of control  




Total 150+kgs lighter (too much to list all)


Payload increased to 740kgs


Exhaust 9.5kgs lighter

Battery 6.5kgs lighter (With almost total LED light conversion/ solar panel )

Spare tyre / jack removed - 20kgs lighter (replaced with tyreweld/ floorpump)

"Lightest" wheels fitted 17.4kgs each w tyres (reduces unsprung / rotating mass too)

Back seat removed (25+kgs)

interior "gutted" back from C pillar/ "van" conversion

(may reverse the last 2 things/ fit lighter back seat)

Weight removed off back (50+kilos behind rear wheels) and left on front of car to improve traction/ handling


The lightening is arguably the most significant modification, acceleration, braking, is improved, payload increased, wear on many components reduced, MPG improved



Picture shows - manual electric waterpump off/ on (temporary - to be replaced with rocket arming switch for electronic boost controller) 30PSI mechanical boost gauge (in cup holder) two digital fan controllers, one with (selectable) water temp, oil temp or voltage display and one with water temp or voltage , each can control a radiator fan or waterpump to switch off/ on at almost any temprature with an overtemp warning buzzer as well, its a lot of displays/ gauges in a small space and is hidden in the ashtray, the switch is to arm the electronic boost controller - switch next to gearstick is for the  torque restrictor defeat   


I have many other mods - its a bit epic/ may edit this back a bit


Ive recently had the car tested on an independant dyno/ rolling road - (see later posts for more info)   

Awk you've hardly done anything. Was it realy worth posting a thread about it? Haha only kidding on. How much has all that improved performance/mpg?

Awk you've hardly done anything. Was it realy worth posting a thread about it? Haha only kidding on. How much has all that improved performance/mpg?

A lot, its like a different car, its hard to remember how slow it once was


The car originally had 115PS and 209ft lbs of torque so with 162PS and 272ft-lbs and being 150kgs lighter it really flies


Thats just the peak figures but instead of the engine being "gutless" (in comparison) under 2k it pulls strongly from tickover and revs to the redline (a lot of work went into reducing turbo lag)


Its 8Hp up on a stock ST-TDCI 2.2 (before the weight saving)


I timed a load of 0-60s / 30-70s etc (safely off road) but it turns out the speedo is way out , here is some of the times (rounded up) -


stock Mondeo TDCI 130 - (mine was a 115, so slower) -

TDCI 2.0 130  0-60 - 10.5secs - 0-100 - 30secs..50-70 in top no data....30-70 10.4 secs 

My 2.0L.......... 0-60  <  8 secs  - 0-100 < 23secs 50-70 in top < 6 secs   30-70 < 8   secs       

ST-TDCI 2.2....0-60 -   8.4secs - 0-100 - 25secs 50-70 in 5th  - 6.5secs 30-70 - 8.3 secs


I get about 50MPG on a run and 40 mixed, it drops to 35mpg going "nut5"/ round town etc the 5- speed box is a bit undergeared for the power and a taller top would help the cruising MPG / top speed, but the way it is i never get "caught out" and the car is ready to "go" when i press the accelerator, even at low speeds in top without having to change down  -


ST-TDCI 2.2 155 - 50- 70 in 6th - 11.6secs (6th = top )

My 2.0L "162PS" .....50 -70 in 5th - > 6 secs (my top gear is 5th)


With the 5-speed box my top speed is a little bit less (130=me vs 136=ST) but that is not important for what i use the car for, even on the strip its not going to get much over 100Mph and i don't drive fast on the road, so the car is "quick" where it needs to be and often the car outperforms "fast" cars at these speeds eg - the 50-70mph acceleration is more important/ useful than the 100-130 (safely off-road/ on unrestricted autobahns of course)  


I buy the cheapest fuel i can find (usually from the supermarket) i used injector cleaner then BP ultimate/ redex cetane booster   (1st time ever - did not want to compromise the RR figures with rubbish fuel) for my trip to the dyno when i got my 50mpg,  i was getting 40mpg when the car was heavier/ with the tuning box regular waterpump pump etc/ running cool 


Electric waterpump conversion -


Electic waterpumps (EW) are used on some race / rally cars and dragsters, and some production cars (eg VW Golf)


They have a lot of advantages compared to traditional mechanical pumps / and or underdrive pullys  


1 - EW has zero parasitic drag/ weight - a mechanical pump is driven from a belt etc from the engine this adds to the weight / load on the engine, on a big V8 dragster this could be as much as 15Hp (apparently) its probably only a couple of hp on the Mondeo engine pulls / revs better through the band/ pulls better from low revs in a high gear with the EW   


2 EW works on demand - when the engine is warming up, pump is not on/ turning so using zero electrical OR mechanical power - + the engine warms up quicker (less engine wear/ better economy) the mechanical pump runs proportionally with the engine, as soon as the engine starts it is circulating cold water through the block (wasting power and taking longer to warm up) afrer a hard hot, run sitting in traffic at tickover the mechanical pump is turning slow, like the engine and relies heavily on the fan to cool the engine - (which often kicks in in these circumstances) - the electric fan works on demand, independant of the engine - it will work "flat out" when the engine is only ticking over, and even be set to run after the engine is switched off


3 - so engine warms up quicker and has better control of temprature, maintaining a more constant temprature and not wasting engine power


4 drawbacks - the EW is far more expensive and complicated  than a simple, cheap mechanical pump,  it has a limited lifespan but if/when it does fail its a 5 - minite job to swap out


I have kept my heater and my thermostat om my setup, i switch the waterpump mnually (i have not set up the electronic controller to control the waterpump yet) once its set up, in cold weather the controller will switch the pump off if the temp drops below a pre- set level - this is great for performance, economy and engine wear, but bad for the poor, freezing driver/ passengers because the heater stops working when the electric waterpump switches off - its something im working on - i might fit a second pump just for the heater or a low speed "trickle" for the single/ main pump


5 Installation on the Mondeo -


Deceptively simple  -


The mechanical pump is removed, and replaced with the EW - exept you can't remove the mechanical pump as it supports the power steering pump and feeds the waterjacket on the block, so the impeller (insides) of the old pump is removed and the hole sealed (i used chemical metal) where the drive shaft (from the powerb steering) came in  the - inside of the pomp is a "bad shape" for flow and the top of the pump traps air (airlock) both things fixed with re-profiling the inside of the pump with chemical metal (took over a week to do this-mainly  waiting for it to set/ filing/ sanding it till it was "right")


The manufacturers recommended the pump should be set low and within  a certain angle, i had to re- route the feed back from the heater, and removed the pre heater electric element and shortened/ straightened the pipes (mostly replacing them with silicone)


I got brass connectors (instead of plastic or steel) - i did not know they would react with the coolant - i swapped the brass connectors for alloy, but the ones i got were too short and split my hoses when the jubillee clips were tightened up - so i reverted back to the brass connectors, and switched the organic for non-organic (highly toxic, needs changing every 2 years but better thermal conductivity for a given concentration / lower frezing point/ higher boiling point)


The coolant concentration put the freezing point at - 40 degrees and the boiling point at 108 degrees (centigrade) so i ran it unpressurized (pressurizing the system raises the boiling point but puts the system under more pressure) and fitted a catchtank and condenser for any overflow (when i forget to switch the "always temporary" manual switch on!)


 6 Would i recommend it?


No. forget it, unless you are building a track day car or have a illogical compulsion to have every possible modification to your car or just love "tinkering" with things/ like a challenge  its not worth the hassle/ expense on a road car in my opinion :)


In real terms the difference it makes is not as much as other things like remaps/ uprated exhausts etc and the money would be better spent elsewhere


I had to try it though! 


 - this -



to this -




exiting - isnt it 


Edit - the controllers i have have multiple readouts/ gauges of water temp/ oil temp/ volts but they are designed to switch fans off/ on - but thats all they do (off or on) they can be used to control the waterpump but the dedicated water pump controllers designed for the purpose work better - with variable speed/ "smart"control and a second channel for a fan built in - i have put one on my ever growing "want" list


Rewired the temp/volt gauges/ fan controllers so they can be powered down (no battery drain) but still work without "fiddling" with them (don't need to be set up again after a power down and reset to read volts and water temp automatically) - had to switch the gauges round to do this


Update :-  Aug 2013 - fitted dedicated electronic fan controller (as described above) and lightweight (1.5kgs) racing fan (yet to be to connected) - engine warms up quicker and car feels faster


Had to make/modify an adaptor to connect the waterpump temp sensor to the heater line - its electrically seperate from the gauge sensor - i kept the manual "waterpump" switch so i can start the engine and run it for a few minites from cold before powering up the pump/ controller so less load on the battery,and engine warms up a little pit quicker - need to get this automated though, with a timer, or a thermostat etc or i could simply connect it direct to the ignition (simpler but draws current before the engine is started and it will not warm up so quickly - but at least i can't forget to switch it on!)                      


AC delete


(+ Comments on various parasitic losses/ AC delete & electric waterpump conversion  VS underdrive pullys/  lightened flywheel)


My aircon never seemed to work very well and i never really used it much (even in our 2 to 3 months of "summer") to save fuel


When i started seriously lightening the car, i removed the AC "radiator" (and other pipework) even though it only weighed 4 kilos, i could feel the difference in the steering/ turn in


i eventually also removed the  AC pump/ pulley and fitted a shorter auxiiary belt ,(the belt also feeds the alternator) the pump weighed a whopping 7kilos and the (heavy) pulley constantly turned when the engine was running (even when the AC was off)


the weight of the AC pump pulley removed is like taking that much off the flywheel (like a lightened flywheel) there is less weight and drag on the crank/ driveline so the engine should rev through the band quicker  


Often, dragsters/ performance cars are fitted with smaller diameter "underdrive pulleys" so the ancillaries run at lower revs, this is known to increase power/ torque to the wheels but can cause problems as the alternator, waterpump are driven at lower revs 


With the AC removed, and the electric waterpump conversion, it is better than an underdrive pully, as the load is reduced, (by removing the mechanical pump and AC pump/ pulley) but the alternator and power steering pump are run at regular speed


There is also the advantage of removing 11kgs (AC system) and the fact the AC cannot fail (because its not there!) 


So the combination of the AC pully and mechanical waterpump being removed boosts power to the wheels a little and helps the engine rev faster through the band (like having a lightweight flywheel)


+ it increases the efficiency so the car is quicker + more economical (i always like that!)


There is still part of the AC system in the heater (got to remove it someday! - wonder how heavy it is?)



^ Standard aux/ serpentine belt routing ^



^ Aux/ serpentine belt routing, shortened  with AC delete ^



Aparently in 1st gear each kilo off the flywheel (the AC flywheel is the wquivelant of the crank flywheel) is like 100kgs off the car  - AC pulley/ flywheel weighs 1.2kgs (always turning with engine, even when AC is off)   

You know your stuff lol

You know your stuff lol

Thank you :)

I wish I could get more into my cars but I realy havent got much of a clue when it comes to performance mods etc (I was the first person in my immediate family that learned to drive so ive only just realy started getting into my cars this last few years). Thats part of the reason I joined the forum. Im considering doing a part time mechanics course just for myself not realy working towards anything :)

Turbo/ boost control


My Mondeo, and its boost control system/s -


I run a stand - alone adjustable electronic digital 400mhz microprossesor controlled 2 stage boost controller with anti-lag programme and 100psi solenoid, dump valve/ anti lag system, extended hose, fail safe/ defeat, overboost pressure relief valve etc)


stage 1 - long pipe to actuator


The boost control systems are set up so that if the electronic boost controller fails or gets switched off the system still works as an extended pipe with the solenoid as a restrictor


Anti lag system / "dump valve"-


When the throttle is lifted off (either changing gear or over-run) a valve "dumps" the air (pressure) out of the actuator, this means the wastegate always closes (or closes quicker) in these conditions, so the turbo has more of a chance to spool up/ produce boost sooner when the throttle/ power is put "back on" 

The long actuator hose would tend to slow down the air escaping from the actuator without this  

this device works independant of the boost controller/ works in all modes ("stage"1, 2, and 3) 


stage 2 + 3 - electronic boost controller


When the boost controller is activated, it comes off the "long actuator hose" ("stage 1") onto the 1st stage of the electronic controller (stage2) usually set (adjustable in the "cockpit") on a constant 20psi with 22psi overboost,  the 2nd stage  of the controller (stage 3) is normally set at a constant/ continuous 22psi and 24psi overboost


These (two) settings were tried on the recent dyno run, with different (but similar) results, the beauty of the system is it can be easily changed (in seconds) to acommodate upgrades to turbo, intercooler etc (when i may run higher boost pressures/ PSIs)


The electronic boost controller - 


it is a two-stage digital microprossesor controlled adjustable boost controller with a 100PSI solenoid,it is "stand alone" (works completely independantly of the engines CPU etc) and is integrated into the other boost control systems/ and (as explained above) is fail: safe, its sensor constantly  monitors the pressure in the inlet manifold at 400Mhz (cycles 400 million times a second), the boost controllers "brain"/ CPU interprets that and controls the soleniod that controls the actuator, the actutor is rated to 100PSI but i have never used it this high! - when i got it i did not know how much boost i would be running (many diesel dragsters run 100+ psi ) the boost controller has an anti lag programme and fast target lock


It works very well and the turbo kicks in at low revs and holds its boost, it was designed as a "budget" alternative to very expensive racing systems and for drift racing, and would normally be used on petrol RX7s, Nissan GTRs etc, it only works on fixed- vane turbos with wastegates


Overboost "dump" valve/ safety pressure relief valve -


As well as the other boost control "stuff" there is a seperate, adjustable overboost dump valve, if any of the other boost control systems were to fail/ be turned up too much, the relief valve would "dump" air from the manifold, protecting the engine from too much boost, i am going to re-locate it so it "hisses" audible to the driver, to tell me the boost has gone way too high - eg, if the max Psi i expect is 24psi, i can set this at 30 (it is completely seperate and works independant of the other boost control system's and works in all "modes" ) i may resite the pick-up-point to prevent "compressor stalling" and "boost spiking"                   





Brief description of how a turbo, wastegate and actuator works  -


The energy from the exhaust manifold is directed towards the turbine ("hot side"/ "exhaust side") which spins (like a windmill) this is connected via a shaft to the compressor ("cold side"/"inlet side") that blows air (like a fan) into the inlet  more air is forced into the engine which means more oxegen so the engine produces more power


Some form of boost control is nessesary otherwise the turbo can spin faster and faster (pulling itself apart in the process) and/ or the boost pressure gets higher and higher untill a hose gets pulled off or engine damage/ pinking/ pre ignition occurs or something breaks/ overheats

On a fixed vane turbo a wastegate and punmatic actuator is simple and reliable (+ has no electric/ electronic parts)

a short thin hose connects the outlet of the turbine with the sealed chamber Inside the actuator - a spring holds back a diaphram, as the pressure/ boost rises from the turbine it pushes against the diaphram, untill it reaches a set PSI/ pressure, (lets say 18PSI) when it overcomes the spring which then pushes a rod that opens the wastegate, when the wastegate opens it diverts exhaust gasses away from the turbine this makes the turbine slow down - this makes the compressor slow down too which reduces the boost, the boost drops untill the pressure inside the actuator goes down which then allows the diahrpam to move back (pushed by the spring) so the rod closes the wastegate, the cycle starts again so the boost is maintained at the desired level


More boost -

The actuator can be replaced with a stronger one (you can get 15, 18, 20, 22PSI ones etc) or you can get actuators that can be rebuilt with different strengths of springs (stronger spring = more PSI = more boost)


Extended hose, boost bottle,

A longer hose or a sealed container (boost bottle) is used between the turbine outlet and the actuator, this allows the boost to rise for a bit longer before the pressure rises in the actuator, pushing the diaphram and opening the wastegate this can help the turbo spool up quicker, reducing lag and boosting bottom end power/ throttle response, the longer the hose/ larger the size/ volume of the boost bottle, the longer it is before the wastegate opens, this an give an "overboost"


bleed valve,

A restriction is placed between the turbine outlet and actuator, normally an adjustable "needle valve" that only allows a little air through, works in a similar way to extended hose/ boost bottle but more extreme and can produce higher peak PSIs for longer, can be tricky to get accurate control of boost, may also "bleed" air to atmospheric (outside hose)


Can be pre set or can have a "knob" you can turn up/ down inside the car  




ball and spring boost controller

Works similar to bleed valve, exept there is a small ball-bearing held back by a spring and threaded bolt (with a pre- set adjuster or adjustable dial) the pressure from the compressor outlet is held back by the ball bearing, untill the PSI is high enough to overcome the spring, thus the ajuster can be set to a higher PSI than the cars' original actuator is set at


None of these modifications are as effective as an - 

Electronic boost controller


An electronic "box" (analog or , these days, digital), often with an adjustable boost dial,  moniters the boost pressure (usually at/ near the inlet manifold) this controls a solenoid (which opens and closes to adjust the boost) fitted between the turbine outlet and actuator,  (this is the "tuning"/"aftermarket" type for fixed vane turbos, normally petrol, but works on diesel engines with fixed vanes too)



Transmission -


SMF conversion Carbon/ Kevlar uprated clutch , sprung plate, uprated HD plate, short shifter


Short shifter -


I bought an aftermarket short- shifter, it was too short for me so i modified the existing gearstick, by cutting the top of the threads down (i left a decent bit of thread on it) i also drilled into the thread on the stock gearknob so it sat lower on the stick, this dropped/ shortened it about 20/ 30mm which felt "perfect" (not too long, not too short) i had to cut down the "lift up reverse" bit too, i removed the "lift up reverse" gate as well (the car will not go into reverse from any of the forward gears at speed anyway - the syncromesh in reverse prevents this) i kept the "lift up reverse" thingy on the gearstick, still sprung- loaded - for show


i repositioned the cable so it was as high on the stick as possible without fouling the trim, this placed the stick further forward, i adjusted it on the gearbox to bring it back again


Altogether this made the stock gearstick 30mm lower and a shorter fore/ aft movement, (approx 100mm/ 4" from 3rd to 4th) i know this does not sound that "extreme" but if it was shorter it would not feel "right" especially as i can only shorten the fore/ aft (/ back forward) and not the side to side, this is an old 5- speed Mondeo, and it originally had a long "van" like stick, and travel, the gearstick mods make it more "ST" "sportscar " like


The shorter throw makes the gear changes faster, the solid flywheel and carbon clutch is a lot more "direct" and less liable to "miss" a gear during a fast change, the responsive engine/ anti- lag setup helps too, so less time is lost changing gear with everything working together and the setup reduces 0-60/ 1/4 mile times etc


SMF conversion -


I bought the car when it was 2/ 3 year old and i was its 3rd owner (it was a reps car1st- 80k) - so i dont know if it had the original DMF, when it was approacking 100k the DMF started playing up, i was told the extra bottom end torque hastened the demise of the DMF (with the tuning box and the unrestricted lower gears/ torque restrictor defeat) neverthless i managed to nurse the "knaked" DMF (that got gradually worse and worse) along for about another year


I then had to change it, i considered replacing it with a stock ("Ford"- probably made by LUK) DMF, clutch etc, but even with my trade discount it would be expensive, and only as good as the one that was removed, which was inevitably going to fail again (especially with the extra torque & power)


I considered a gear-driven planetery Sachs DMF,better than the stock LUK rubbish but even more expensive,


I learnt that the engines are tuned to reduce the torque at low revs/ and in some cars in the lower gears, to protect the "soft" DMF,


I wanted a flywheel/ clutch that could handle all the (derestricted) torque the engine could throw at it


I got a balanced solid fluwheel, carbon fiber/ kevlar clutch with sprung plate, 30% stronger clamping force with Upgraded Heavy-duty backplate -


The Solid flywheel (SMF/ Single mass flywheel ) is simply a solid, single balanced disc with no (seperate) moving parts to wear/ break up, it can handle a lot of torque with no problem the one i got was made for a transit


I had read all the "horror stories" online about SMFs, but most of these seem to be from those who have not actually fitted one, i can tell you an SMF is a LOT smoother than a worn - out DMF, dmfs are nisc when they are new, not so good when they wear - the genuine SMF stories about exessive vibration/ broken cranks/ clutches are probably from poorly fitted or mismatched SMFs


The chap that sold me the kit, sells DMFs and SMFs, and recommended the SMF/ solid flywheel for me/ my needs


The ohter thing that swayed me was the fact the Streetperformance MK3 2.2 used an SMF


As well as the SMF, i got a carbon fiber & kevlar clutch, Kevlar is 6 times stronger than steel, pound for pound, but expensive, these are normally fitted as upgrades to EVOs Impretzas etc, the one i got is good for 400Bhp, apparently (handy if i manage to coax i bit more power out of my 2.0L diesel!)


The backplate is stronger and the clamping force 30% stronger so its less liable to slip, the pedal is a bit heavier but ok, it is precise compared to the stock setup (which was "sloppy")


The clutch has a "cush drive" "sprung plate" built into it, this replaces the "give" that the DMF had, important on an SMF conversion


I fitted the SMF/ upgraded clutch a couple of years ago, its only then that i felt confident to tune the car seriously, it has worked perfectly, it is smooth and nice to drive and has never "missed a beat"








Weight saving / lightening -


FOCA Mondeo is 150kgs lighter (the weight of 2 avarage people) - payload increased to 740kgs,(almost 3/4 of a tonne) for comparison a BMW M3 has a 400kgs payload.  An Escort van has a payload of 452-715kgs (the lowest/ highest i could find) Partner van - 625-750kgs - my estate is (approx) 80kgs lighter than stock MK3 saloon/ hatch (inc ST220/ ST-TDCI)    


I would say that the weight saving / lightening is the most significant/ important modification in the car, that and the tuning box/ remap/ bluefin Though the weight saving consists of lightening/ removing a lot of different components, it probably makes the biggest difference and these 2 things more than everything else put together


Advantages -


1 Better acceleration


2 Better Braking


3 Better fuel economy


4 increased payload  


5 better traction/ handling (if done right)


6 Less stress/ wear on tyres/ suspension/ transmission/ brakes


Ive managed to remove a massive 150+kgs from my Mondeo this is a mixture of fitting lightened components and removing un-nessesary weight, and not adding weight  


Balance for traction/ handling -


The car handles vey well and is nicely balanced, the lightening is most noticable when braking, but accelerating/ cornering too  


A lot of effort has gone into taking the weight off the extreme rear of the car behind the rear wheels, the rear wheels can act as a fulcrum (pivot/ see-saw) any weight on here can reduce the weight on the front (driven in fwd) wheels


the weight/ mass has been concentrated in the middle of the car (like a mid- engined car) to help the car handle better/ turn faster, some weight (that could have been removed) was left on around the engine area to help traction, so the mass is concentrated in line with/ just behind  the front wheels, some effort was made to reduce mass in front of the front wheels to help turn in (but at the expense of traction)


I did not fit a carbon - fiber bonnet, or change the front crash bar/ cross member for an Alloy one, or replace the lead- acid battery for a NI-CAD (optional on some 911s- expensive but weighs 1kgs- i don't know if it would even start the car or if the smart charge system would cope with it)


Battery - the stock battery weighs 19kgs, i fitted 1st a 17kg one now a 12.4kg one, ive re-fitted the bottom tray part of the battery box and insulated the battery - its gone through the winter no problem (most of the lights are leds, there is less electrical stuff and i have a small (1kg) solar panel fitted though)


The Ac system was 11kgs and the radiator fans 4.7kgs (turns out i ran the car for 3 years with a bad connection and these were not working anyway )  


Battery............ - 6.5kgs

Ac .................. - 11kgs

Radiator fans.. - 4.7kgs


I plan to fit a lightweight radiator fan in-beteen the radiator and intercooler


the intercooler is the only part of the car heavier than stock = + 2.5kgs


Ive no plans to lighten the front much more so as not to reduce traction but if i get a limited- slip diff/ ATB i may be tempted


Im not going to list every single thing lightened / removed (there must be a lot) but certain key things - 


Any rotating parts (the Ac pully/ pump and the waterpump impeller - far more significant that their "static" weight)


The wheels/ tyres - reducing the weight of the wheels reduces overall weight,  unsprung mass, and rotating mass that has to be accelerated and de-celerated - a bigger, wider tyre can add mechanical and aerodynamic drag - this  can have a significant effect and the MK3 Mondeo has 2 sets of official MPG figures depending on the wheels/ tyres fitted


Wider tyres can improve traction/ acceleration off the line and in lower gears, (and give better grip in heavy braking) but can slow the car down in other conditions (so its a balance) very powerful cars may need wide tyres but less powerful ones probably don't


16" Ford wheels (steel or early Mondeo alloys) and  205/55/16 tyres = 17.4kgs - x 4 = 69.6kgs


18" Mondeo ST-TDCI wheels/ tyres .......................................................22kgs.... - x4 = 88Kgs


Some other Ford wheels/ tyres (including 17" i weighed)........................24kgs     - x4 = 96kgs


these are all 5-stud


So a weight saving of 18.4kgs or 26.4kgs, but this is weight that has to be "spun up" and is "unsprung mass" so is more significant than static weight (+ the drag of wider wheels)  


Spare tyre - an easy one to remove, weighs 17.4kgs or about 20kgs with jack/ brace its at the back of the car mostly behind the back wheels so removing it improves traction (and a noticable difference in handling) can be replaced with tyre weld/ pump  


So 4 lighter wheels and removing a (full size) spare tyre alone can save 40- 45 kgs (a significant amount)


Lighter, silenced straight- through exhaust with decat, balanced for traction/ handling -


The back-box (7kgs) is removed and replaced with a straight pipe (1kg) the (straight through) middle silencer was left in place (estimated approx 10kgs) to shift the weight off the back into the miggle of the car, the decat is 3.5kgs lighter than the cat, making a total weight saving of 9.5kgs - this is about weight saving/ distribution- the exhaust will be described in more detail


Rear of car -


spare wheel etc -20kgs

back box - 6kgs

boot cover/ rear shelf 4kgs

spare wheel cover 3.2kgs

rubber boot floor 6kgs

wiper + motor 1.5kgs


total 40.7kgs (with carpet still in place)  


Not adding any extra wieght -


Apart from a slightly heavier intercooler (2.5kgs) no significant extra weight has been added, no point in "sweating blood" to bring the weight down then "throwing away" the advantage by adding a subwoofer to rouin the traction/ handling -  the stock Cd6000 stereo was left in with its 4 speakers, (each speaker is only 1kgs)


I was planning bigger (and heavier ) front discs/ calipers (which would have added weight) but with removing 150kgs the stock brakes worked a lot better (they are the same as the 150mph ST-220, after all - all mk3s have the same discs)


Some of the aftermarket intercoolers are very big/ must be heavy, no point in adding extra wieght to hide the top half behind the bumper and increase internal volume/ turbo lag


The stock intercooler only weighs 2kgs - i chose a "lightweight" drag racing one - 4.5kgs, most other "performance" ones are +8 - 10kgs


The exhaust is 2-14" - if i go for a larger diameter in the furure it may add weight but if i remove the middle silencer it may offset this  


Future plans -


Im thinking about perspex glass on the back/ sides, (approx 20kgs saving) the stock front seats are heavy, i could fit lightweight racing ones, but may have to do something clever for the airbags, i could fit team dynamics pro wheels (save 1.2kgs per wheel) and a carbon- fiber bonnet , i would want to get the LSD/ ATB 1st for that


I could save about another 50kgs with these, taking it from -150 to -200kgs   


Total EGR delete And total - loss breather system


Total EGR delete -


The EGR is effectively blanked at both ends, the inlet and exhaust are seperated, keeping the exhaust hot and the inlet cool  the inlet gas flow is improved by smoothing and shortening the boost hoses (that formed part of the EGR system)


The engine pulls better at low revs, with less flat spots, on top of this the inlet manifold stays clean


Total loss breather system -


The crankcase breathes through a vent in the cylinder head, this is vented into the inlet between the airbox and turbo compressor


it is injected here so the engine has to regurgitate the oily gas/ spray from the breather, (for emmisions reasons) it tends to eventually coat the turbo hoses and especally the inside of the intercooler (where it tends to condense when it hits the cool walls ) and all the way to the inlet manifold where it mixes with the carbon from the EGR valve


It probably is not too bad on a new engine but as an engine gets worn it can produce a fair bit of "muck" over time that can choke / reduce the efficiency of the intercooler as the inside surfaces are coated with oil, insulating the air


 The breather gets blocked on the inlet side and vented to the atmosphere on the engine/ block/ head side, via a catchtank filter or long pipe


On mine there is a long pipe away from the the engine bay to a kind of "exhaust" out the side


With the breather diverted the intercooler stays clean, and all the air going to the inlet manifold, only if the turbo seals leak will the inlet get dirty, with the EGR blanked as well


Apart from the oil mist/ droplets, there is warm air from the crankcase, which can reduce power


The total power boost with the EGR delete and breather diverted is quite small, but the engine runs smoother with less flat spots, and the (inside of the)  inlet, boost hoses, intercooler and inlet manifold stay clean


Dyno results -

Chart 1 - Power + torque - My modified car on Dastec dyno / superchips ;before; (stock) / superchips bluefin;after

Chart 2 - Power only (torque lines;removed for clarity) -

Chart 2 shows the printout of my cars power curves ;from dastek, with the Superchips Bluefin before/ after, superimposed in pen -

in acsending order (starting with lowest peak power 1st)

Dark blue line - 113/127Hp Stock car, (supposedly 113hp);peaks out at 127Hp measured on superchips dyno,;this is a 113Hp (115PS) 2.0 TDDI, so this is ;"healthy"; the 115PS/113hp (it is supposed to be) was to keep it in a EU/ German tax bracket so was "political"; power rises steeply from 1500rpm, then &quot;levels out&quot; above 2600, fairly flat upto 4000 rpm, peak power is at 3360, in practice, when i got my car it was "gutless"  below 2k and no point in revving it past 3.5k, (though it did rev higher) compared to how it is now, it was very, very slow.

Black line -;147Hp - Superchips Bluefin remap - Measured on the Superchips dyno, otherwise stock car - the power follows the stock line from tickover to just over 2500 with no significant extra power over stock under these revs, above 2500 the Bluefin power continues to rise (compared to stock that "levveled off" untill 2800 where it levvels off untill about 3200 - so it is almost "flat" (not a rising power characteristrict/ almost a "flat spot" between 2800 and 3100 - above 3100 it rises nicely 'till its peak at 3360rpm, where it makes 147Hp, above this it falls rapidly (more than stock) by 4k its dropped a little over 10Hp (so no point in revving it over 3360)

Red/ light blue line - 160.1Hp/ 162PS my car on Dastec dyno - power pulls strongly almost from tickover and can take full throttle from 1k, (not shown on graph) power comes in sooner and pulls stronger throughout the rev range, power rises faster and by 1500 there is almost 12Hp more than stock/ Bluefin, from tickover to 2600 the power rises sharplly, its still rising (not as steeply) between 2600- 2634, where it makes 160.1Hp (a massive gain over stock and/or Bluefin alone) the power corve is smooth with no "flat spots"/ "glitches" and starts earlier/ extends later, (even at 4k it only drops 4Hp) - a "perfect"  curve (i want to extend the rising power characteristrict to higher revs in the future, if possible - /dyno run;was done in 4th, it revs higher in 2nd)

The light blue line was at 22PSI turbo boost, the red line was at 24PSI, i lost a little power at the higher PSI, and the power curve was slightly different (rising earlier/ dropping off faster) - this is info i can use to get more power in the future

Chart 3 - Torque only (power lines removed for clarity)


Dark Blue line - stock torque measured on Superchips dyno


Black line - Superchips Bluefin on an otherwise stock car


Red & light blue lines - my cars torque on Dastec dyno at 22/24PSI boost pressure


Torque Summary - torque is over 10ft-lbs more than stock or Blufin alone between 1600-2400, the peak torque (271.9 ft-lbs/ 368Nm), is almost the same (just a bit more -2.9 ft-lbs) as the bluefin alone,( 269ft-lbs/ 366Nm) but the torque curve starts earlier and extends higher up the rev range, fatter and flatter (not so "peaky")  this is a perfect example why the shape of the curve is so important compares to the "on paper" figures - at peak power (3634rpm) the torque is a massive  20+ft- lbs more than the Bluefin alone, even though the peak figures are the same


At 3634rpm  its almost 40ft-lbs more than stock (measured on the Superchips dyno) and the 272ft-lbs is a massive boost over Fords' claimed 209ft-lbs


The lightened car, with the (massively) increased and wider power and torque curves coupled to the stock (5-speed ) gear ratios give the car "insane" top-gear acceleration, with the 50-70mph in top, quicker than most cars on the road, including sports cars/ supercars etc   



^^ original data - Superchips / Bluefin power & torque curves that were transposed onto the Dastec printout - note it has a different scale / aspect ratio and the torque is in Nm (366Nm = 269ft -lbs )



That's some build. Credit to you. Any pics of the car in full?

Thanks! - There is a reason there are no pictures of the whole car - there is nothing to see! the car looks very standard/ boring - its a "sleeper" - from the outside it looks just (virtually) like a completely standard Mondeo - you would need an eye for detail to tell the difference - it even has stock wheels - inside the boost gauge sits in the centre console cup holder, and it looks like a compass or "regular/ avarage" little mod, the water/ oil temp controllers/ voltmeter are hidden in the ashtray, under the flap  


(i was influenced by the car in the movie "Taxi" - you know the one :lol:  )  


Ive de-tangoed the indicators on the front/ repeaters (replaced the orange with chrome or white) de-badged the rear and thats just about it with the cosmetic mods.


Im considering a big brake kit (so i might need big wheels)  and a large-diameter side exit exhaust , i would ditch the "sleeper" look then and possibly go with a carbon bonnet, racing seats and roll cage etc, - might be worth posting some pictures then - im still not bored with the "sleeper" concept yet,  :)      


Fantastic, I do love a sleeper!


Just out of interest FOCA, do you get to benefit from all the work you have done, power and weight wise, or is it more you do it because you can and theres the sense of satisfaction when its done. Do you take it on any track days at all.


Just out of interest FOCA, do you get to benefit from all the work you have done, power and weight wise, or is it more you do it because you can and theres the sense of satisfaction when its done. Do you take it on any track days at all.

Thats a good question, The car and the reason for me owning it has changed,  


Initially i bought the car to transport equipment, i ran petrol cars (mostly old bangers) and they were always breaking down and i was always fixing them/ spenging mony on them, untill something serious went wrong then i would basically "throw them away", i sometimes did very long runs (100s of miles) and i liked the idea of a modern turbo-diesel, i bought a high milage Vectra TD it was garbage, slow, handled like a tea-trolley, and it broke down big-time, soon after i bought it  


I realised i was wasting my money on old bangers - and i should buy a decent, modern turbo diesel.


At the time Audis, BMWs Mercs etc were over priced/ over-rated, i had tried the Vectra so that left the Mondeo, the mk1s/2s had a rattly/ underpowered diesel so that left the Mk3 (for that size of car to carry my equipment)


I wanted a car that would do 110mph, and 10 seconds to 60, as a minimum, the Mondeo TDDI with its 113Hp was more like 11 secs, but kept in the torque it was not too bad, and the official top speed was 124mph all safely off road, of course


So the "high tech" 16 valve, twin cam, turbocharged engine gave "kind of" petrol performace but diesel economy


So the decision to buy the Mondeo was based in logic, rather than brand loyalty (even though ive had Sierras, Escorts, Fiestas varios Vans mk1 & mk2 Mondeos etc, ive ownd scores of other marques too)


So the idea was to buy a car, run it, keep it, not waste money buying/ fixing/ selling cars


I had no plans to modify the car at 1st. (but that was 8 years ago) 


The (Mk3 Mondeo estate) car was i bit barge- like with the extra weight in the back (compared to the saloon/ hatch) and this was even worse with the weight of the equipment i needed to carry, i weighd all the equipment, and chose lighter alternatives, left un-nessesary gear, put the heavier stuff in the front, even using the passenger footwell, i rebuilt/ redesigned the equipment i had to carry, using space- age materials, i managed to make it half the weight and twice as powerful, it was later i realized i could do this to the car as well


So i ran the car for a couple of years with practically no modifications, the car was "gutlees" below 2k, and ran out of puff about 3 - 3.5k, so it had a narrow power band, it was rubbish off the line and the traction was poor (hence trying to get the payload forward)  but, it was comfortable handled (reasonably) well and could be hustled fairly quickly across country in the right hands (i have some motorsport experience) but you could not call it "fast"


I fitted an EGR blanking plate, and while doing it, i realised the extra restriction/ path the inlet/ exhaust had to pass through, and that all the extra junk was no longer nessesary (the EGR valve/ the pipes/ tubes etc)  and i could fit a straight pipe instead (this is when i thought of the EGR delete kit) i can't remember the exact date i fitted it but it was years before anyone else had copied/ fitted one :)  / nicked the idea and taken credit for it :lol: (if you know what i mean)


If i have any new ideas / "inventions" i keep them secret now, most of the stuff is pretty well known/ accepted now (though sometimes seemingly not fully accepted in some quarters) - like Solid flywheels/ EGR plates/ delete etc  


I always do the breathers on my cars (done it for years- manditory for some motorsport use) there is only a small advantage but it keeps the inlet clean - i dispensed with the catchtank on the Mondeo though (total loss vented breather "system")


I gas- flowed/ de-webbed the stock airbox (in a basic way, not the full gas-flowed CAIS it is now)


And i disconnected the switch on the clutch,


And removed the spare wheel, jack, rubber boot floor, parcel shelf thingy


This was to make it less "barge like" and to help it pull better under 2k, and to get rid of useless junk (EGR system) and keep the engine inlet clean (EGR / breather bypass)


So i ran it like that for a while  (years) (all this was very "normal"/ conservative for me)


It was still a "workhorse"


 untill  the DMF packed in  


I thought there was no point in putting the same type of DMF in to fail again (i have a bit more low down torque now, that sped its demise)


then i put the SMF/ carbon kevlar HD clutch in


Thats when i decided to "go to town" on it - the car was quite old by this time, (approx 5/6 yrs)   


Before that it was all "low budget" stuff, - the airbox was modified with a file, the EGR delete was made out of old bits of exhaust/ the back box delete was a bit of pipe rescued from a skip,


I was experimenting with long pipes/ boost bottles with the turbo (all "pennies")


I realized i had to actually "put my hand in my pocket" and spend some money -


I bought a racing intercooler  (but it still was'nt "proper fast")


I bought and fiffed a DTUK tunig box, once i reset the ecu the car felt much faster i noticed it could easily keep up with "warm hatches" old GTIs etc  


I fitted the electronic boost controller because i realized i was wasting my time "messing about" with the extended pipes -


it was about this time i started timing the 30-50 50-70 etc, the idea was to set the car up with the (adjustable) tuning box to get the maximum acceleration / minimum setting/ amount of fuel/ stress on the injectors/ fuel pump, i did the same with the boost controller, it was so well set up this way  turning it up a little bit more LOST power on the dyno


the tuning box and bosst controller being optomised helps the MPG - the car was 50 kilos lighter then 80 (estate lighter than a saloon/ hatch) now 150kgs lighter  helps too - i get (almost) ST220 acceleration with twice the MPG


so it was a bit at a time (only brushed over the exhaust, never mentioned the electric water pump/ AC delete in this post) so the car got a bit faster a step at i time - it did not feel that fast - everything else seemed like it was going backwards :lol:


So i did not set out to have the quickest, most radical 2.0L TDDI Mondeo never mind an estate sleeper one with the quickest top- gear acceleration of not just any TDDI, or any Mondeo, but any production car - it just happened by accident, really


Ive got a load of prototype parts ive not even fitted yet, i need to get the electric waterpump working better, ive got some more weight- saving plans (another 50kgs- thats getting expensive though)


I need to get a limited- slip diff but i might run it at santa pod (it will be running against itself to be officially the quickest Mondeo TDDI (it would probably "walk it" the way it is now anyway, but i would like to beat the stock ST220 time)- its in the same class as RWD Sierra Cosworths (1200kgs or less, 600+Hp))  ive no plans for track days, seems a bit boring, to be honest (after my "proper" motorsport involvement :lol: )               


Very nice work :) , theres only one minor flaw with all the power, doing 110mph and 0-60 times.

Around town your resticted to 30 and on the motorway you can only do 70 im sure youd never think of going above the speed limit ;) 

also how daft would you look shooting off like s**t off a shovel at traffic lights next to an old lady in a micra just to get up to 30 then taking your foot off the pedal to stay at the speed :lol:



A couple of things

You said about all the money you have spent on old bangers and stuff. Havent you just spent loads of money on this car to get it to what it is, which is what you were trying to stop by buying it in the first place.


Other than replacing the worn and broken parts, does the cost of all the other parts and mods cost less than the improvements you have made in fuel consumption eg. will you get your money back in saved fuel.


Yes you may decide to do santa pod once or twice, but the rest of the time it will be general driving.


dont take these comments as arguing, putting you down or anything else, im just having a bit of banter at the beginning then just out of interest after that.


Thank you -  the 0-60 argument etc could be levvelled at any performance car, i don't think there is a car on here that could not break the 70mph speed limit - its not a 200mph supercar


When i was choosing a car i wanted a 10 second or quicker 0-60mph, perhaps you misunderstood my post?    


If i am pulling onto the motorway (off a slip road etc), or out of a junction i need all the power/ acceleration i can get to stop me being mowed down by little old ladies in Micras! :lol:


The lighter weight, low down torque and realatively low gearing makes it quick & "effortless" at legal speeds - its not overgeared like some cars are  


Ive had the car for years, its saved me a lot of money - instead of buying a new car every 3 years/ depreciation etc


Altogether i have not spent that much money repairing/ modifing/ upgrading the car, probably less than others have spent simply keeping their own standard cars running - its about making the right decisions - ditching the EGR, (so no problems with that any more) diverting the breather (so inlet stays clean, hoses last longer, car is more efficient) ditching the AC (no more problems with refrigerant/ any AC faults/ no more rattly pullys, car is lighter/ less drag faster/ more economical) Ditching the DMF and fitting a SMF/ solid flywheel & stronger, tougher clutch (so no more problems there)


And, its got the tougher, more reliable  MTX75 - 5-speed box, and the basic but tough TDDI injectors (not the soft Delphi TDCI ones)- so all the problems associated with mk3 Mondeos do not apply


The car is an exellent daily driver, with all that torque its great in traffic (pulls from walking pace/ can leave it in 3rd for junctions etc if i keep it rolling) very practical and discrete + i just put some veg oil in - £1.15 per litre


No other car does what it does - i can't imagine the time/ effort and money involved in doing this to another car, the electric waterpump conversion alone was an epic (unfinished)  task, the CAIS took 3 weeks to design & build, etc, etc


 Its a start, anyway :lol:      



FOCA - I think i have pushed the little GT20 turbo about as far as it can go - i have a fully adjustable boost controller and i seem to have reached a "plateo" where i am increasing the boost but not getting any more power gains, the power drops off at the "top end" - i would like to extend it its a low budjet project and i want to retain the stock injectors, exhaust manifold (i have a second one, with turbo/ actuator etc- which i plan to ceramic coar and/or heatwrap, i have a 8mm ss EGR blanking plate (which i plan to fit the EGT sensor to) and an EGT gauge). With keeping the stock manifold i would probably be stuck with the stock turbine, (its a fixed vane) but would like to fit a larger compressor wheel & housing, but here is the thing- i don't want to significantly increase lag / raise the boost threshhold so im looking for a compressor(+ housing) that will icrease the gas-flow/ top end power without doing that - any comments appriciated


Reply from Steelie 600 -

It sounds to me like youve reached the limits of the fuel supply, and no amount of forcing more air in will create any morepower. You will most certainly running lean at the top end too. So what I would do is adjust the boost to the point where its the max boost you can run before it levels out. Have you had the ecu mapped at all?? If so is there any more headroom to increase the injectors open phase??


Reply from FOCA -

Its the 2.0L TDDI 115PS, it already has the biggest injectors available for th, (there is a 2.4TDDI used in transits, taxis etc but i'm told the injectors are smaller on those, i may be able to get the injectors modified to inject more diesel, but i have had mixed reports back about that)

I have a Superchips Bluefin remap (on its 3rd revision) previous to that i used a DTUK tuning box, the tuning box was adjustable (on a tiny potentiometer) the setting was adjusted (along with the boost pressure setting) to give the absolute maximum axelleration, without turning it up more than it needs to be. (regardless of the amount of smoke etc)

Eventually i made a remote adjuster for the tuning box, its easier to adjust but still under the bonnet, i was going to have it adjustable from the drivers seat, to have "normal" (a high but not OTT setting for going to the shops etc) and "high" absolute maimum power - instead of leaving it on the "MAX" setting all the time

I aqquired a secondhand Bluefin Handset and fitted it (taking the tuning box off) although there was more top end power, the bottom end grunt was reduced, Superchips uploaded a revised map for me, the bottom end was a bit better, but still not as good as the tuning box alone, finally, i asked them to go "all out" and not to worry about smoke etc, this was the 3rd map, it was not quite as "gutsy" at really low revs as the tuning box alone but not far off, but with significantly more "top end" power than the tuning box

I can run the tuning box with the map as well, it just seems to produce more smoke and no more power


When i got the independant dyno run i got two back- to - back runs, (both with the Bluefin rev3, no tuning box) one was at 22psi and the other at 24, (you can see the plots on the graph)


I dont do remaps myself, Im 100 miles away from the nearest decent dyno, im not sure which remappers i can trust, so i just went for the Bluefin, its debatable whether i can get significantly more power/ torque than the Bluefin anyway


If i can change the compressor to another that flows as much gas as the one i have on now, but at lower boost, it may help lower the charge temp, the turbo outlet is a small diameter, if it was a bit bigger it may help the flow before the turbo starts boosting, helping the pick-up/ low end, i would have to be careful choosing a compressor/ housing so the extra weight of the bigger compressor wheel did not negate these advantages (because of the potentially higher boost threshold/ increased lag) - hence - the reason im looking for expert help


I could inject different sorts of fuel in, bypassing the injectors- that could get expensive though


HMMM running those kinda numbers on a stock ish setup is pretty close to the max youre gonna get. Your at the peak of what the standard ecu even with the bluefin is capable of.


A bigger compressor isnt going to do much as your already having issues when you wind the smaller turbo right up, so a lower pressure yet higher flow will just result in the same issues. 


At this point I think your gonna need to start thinking cams, injectors, proper management system (motec) forged internals (cant remember if they are stock or not).


What I would do if I was in your position is get another engine and rebuild it to how you want it (maybe a 2.2??) get the full race engine management, variable vane turbo, bigger injectors etc.


Intresting ideas there -


The crank, rods pistons and block are very strong (i have the specs somewhere) - there is a chap with a 2.0L TDCI that is running 240+Hp 500+Nm (nitrus/ meth/ water injection) with stock internals


The 2.2L is basically a 2.0L with a longer stroke, the Euro4 2.0l TDCI with the electronic actuator is apparently identical to the Euro4 2.2 apart from the longer stroke, larger injectors and allegedly a couple of extra fins on the compressor wheel (unconfirmed)


So ultimately although i might get more torque out of the 2.2L, i may not get ver much more power


Fords electronic actuator is tied in to the ECU, changing the ECU would be nightmare, all sorts of the car systems would not work, it would be too much hassle + i already have  "stand alone" (works independently from the cars ECU) control of the boost pressure, and i can turn the boost up as much as i like (very difficult to achieve with the VNT) the system is setup for minimal lag, the fixed vane turbo is realatively simple and reliable (no VNT vanes to sieze/ coke up) and i have a spare one (it was cheap)   


The 2.2 is restricted in 1st and 2nd,  in a way it already produces too much torque (for a FWD) im trying to increase the power / spread of power/ torque, without increasing the peak torque 


Ive already got a mk3 2.2 hatch (decat, EGR done, eibach springs - for now) - the 2.0L estate is a lot quicker


I can run the TDDI on 100% SVO (straight vegatable oil) - this is not recommended with TDCIs as the injectors are "soft" - the TDDI is also more reliable (i still run the original pump and injectors)


There is a 2.0L FI (forced induction) class in drag racing, having a 2.2 could put it into the "unlimited" class, so instead of competing against 300+Hp FWD Corsas (with tuned Calibra turbo engines) i may be up against 1000+ Hp GTRs (for the sake of a bit more torque) - the 2.0L TDDI is already more powerful than a stock 2.2 anyway       


I had planned to fit a 2.2 engine, but im not going to bother now (it could not be the quickest, most radical Mondeo TDDI then!) 


I have printout of a remapped "180Hp" 2.2 TDCI, the actual power measured at the wheels = 135Hp my wheel Hp 141


Iv a few bits n peices yet to fit on the TDDI, Then i may be starting another (completely different) project :)


PS no point in fitting high lift/ duration cams as it may just reduce bottom end power, something i can't afford to do with the relatively narrow powerband of the diesel, as i would still have the limitations of the turbo/ injectors - so may have no advantage, this is more normally associated with NA engines - i recon i can get even more power gains (already 113 to 160) without having to touch the engine internals


Well spotted thats its not really heavily modified -including all internal engine components/ inlet and axhaust manifold, turbo etc (just what was nessesary ) 


you do realise that the power figure in a diesel is a useless number dontya??  Power = How fast you hit the wall = top end grunt when flat stick, Torque = how far you take the wall with you = Acceleration/pulling power.


If you want a fast accelerating car you need oodles of torque, if you want a fast top speed car you want bags of power. Your mentioning drag racing here aswell. Your also at the realms where a LSD would help get the power down to get off the line. I assume youve got the MTX75 box, so thats plenty strong enough


As to the cams if you talk to the company doing then they will give you a custom profile to give the characteristics that you want. Vernier pulleys aswell to make the timing absolutely spot on to where it needs to be (its a few degrees out from factory) will also give big gains.


I just dont think your gonna get much more from bolt on bits unless you start playing with the internals. Call me old school, but id rather have the power mechanically and control it electronically than try to tease out every last bhp with bolt ons. If your engine is re-designed to run in a certain power range, its gonna be more efficient, cooler, easier to drive, and have a wider power band


 + i just put some veg oil in - £1.15 per litre



99% of what you're speaking about is going right over my head  :D but I'm loving the fact you're running on cooking oil  B) What % are you using? I used to run a Pajero on 50/50 and reckon it ran smoother/quieter and had a nice smell with it as well  ;)


99% of what you're speaking about is going right over my head  :D but I'm loving the fact you're running on cooking oil  B) What % are you using? I used to run a Pajero on 50/50 and reckon it ran smoother/quieter and had a nice smell with it as well  ;)

Fair enough - iv run it for a few years now and once i got the hang of it ive had no problems, in the winter i run 100% diesel and i have found if i run slightly more than 50% diesel/ veg oil mix (taking into account that modern diesel has 5- 7% bio in it) i can run at reasonably low (atmospheric) temps - if the weather gets warm enough i can run 100% veg oil


So its all temprature - dependant, if i have added a lot of veg oil because of warm weather and it suddenly turns cold, the fuel could "wax" or solidify - making the car difficult to start - as long as i take this into account (even for the mornings/ coldest time of day) and have not too much veg oil ive been ok


i only use new, clean veg oil (Tescos is doing a 10-litre tub for £11.50) the filters seem to stay clean (i could use used stuff but once i factor in the cost of filters etc) - its not a massive saving but it adds up, over the course of a year, and SVO (straight vegatable oil) is a renuable energe source - it gets its power ultimately from the sun, it cannot "run out" (as long as the sun shines) and is sustainable (unlike petrol/ diesel, gas and other "fossil fuels") the plants it is made from release oxegen in daylight and the process of making the veg oil has less impact on the enviroment


Effectively, running the car on veg oil makes it "solar powered" (inderictly)


Im using it without a second tank or (tank) heaters etc, with these i could run it all year round (i feel the "diesel only" in the winter helps to clean out the system)


There was a lot of talk on other forums about people running diesels and adding two-stroke oil (designed for two-stroke petrol engines) some of these people did not even know the 3 basic types of 2-stroke oil (castor-based, semi-synthetec and fully synthetic) and that some of these types cannot be mixed (the 2-stroke engine would require a strip-down/ clean out and rebuilt using the new oil you intended to use)


Also, as modern diesel contains 5-7% bio- diesel, how well does the 2- sroke oil (designed for mixing with petrol in a 2-stroke petrol engine) mix with the diiesel/ bio-diesel / veg oil (in my case) in a diesel engine?


So i have never added 2-stroke to my diesel, mostly ive filled up with the cheapest/ most convenient diesel i could find, with a bias against supermarkets towards small, independant filling stations for political reasons (i don't want to see the (more of the) independant filling stations go out of business - allowing the supermarkets carte blanche to potentially fix the prices etc )


After never using "snake oil" / additives etc for years (many of which contain solvents like kerosine that can eat through seals etc) and only using the cheapest diesel (ocasionally with pure veg oil) i ran half a tank of injector cleaner, brimmed my tank with BP ultimate diesel (wow, its expensive!) and added some redex cetane booster/ injector cleaner for good measure (making it the most expensive tank full ever, in the lifetime of the car!) - for my trip to/ and the dyno run - it ran a bit smoother / i would have been interesting to see if it actually increased the power/ torque figures and by how much (but i did not have time to try different fuels so put the best stuff i could get, just in case and tried different boost pressures instead)


Ive got 10 litres of veg oil to stick in today     


V power diesel is much better than BP Ultimate. Refined to a higher standard and is a higher calorific value


you do realise that the power figure in a diesel is a useless number dontya??  Power = How fast you hit the wall = top end grunt when flat stick, Torque = how far you take the wall with you = Acceleration/pulling power.


If you want a fast accelerating car you need oodles of torque, if you want a fast top speed car you want bags of power. Your mentioning drag racing here aswell. Your also at the realms where a LSD would help get the power down to get off the line. I assume youve got the MTX75 box, so thats plenty strong enough


As to the cams if you talk to the company doing then they will give you a custom profile to give the characteristics that you want. Vernier pulleys aswell to make the timing absolutely spot on to where it needs to be (its a few degrees out from factory) will also give big gains.


I just dont think your gonna get much more from bolt on bits unless you start playing with the internals. Call me old school, but id rather have the power mechanically and control it electronically than try to tease out every last bhp with bolt ons. If your engine is re-designed to run in a certain power range, its gonna be more efficient, cooler, easier to drive, and have a wider power band

Tottally agree with the LSD, i use a MTX75 - 5 speed box, and have no form of traction control, - An RS (Focus) mk1 uses the same 'box, and has an ATB (automatic torque biasing) diff from quaife - its expesive to buy, could be expensive to fit, and may be hard to track one down secondhand (i would imagine they are quite rare) but one will fit straight on an MTX75 box, i don't think they need electronic gubbins/ ecus ect to work, and are self contained / fully mechanical (as far as i am aware) (you can get them for the MMT6 too)  - i think ive already written about this in the "trans" part of this (build) thread - it could put more stress on the g-box/ clutch etc, especially with the amount of torque and the de-restricted lower gears - if it was purely a drag strip car (not for the road) i would just get the diff welded up (a kind of "diff lock")


Vernier pullys and performance cams are not available and the stock cams would have to be modified, the pullys, custom made (expensive).   The problem with changing the cam profile (more lift and or more duration) is i may lose bottom- end power and the strong but heavy crank/ rods pistons etc nessesary for the high compression of a diesel engine prevents high revs, and there is a limit to how fast  the diesel combustion process can take, these things (and the torque peaking at relatively low revs/ dropping off at gigher revs) mean the diesel can never rev as high as a petrol engine 


So without losing any bottom end power, there is probably not much potential from the cams, as far as the intake is concerned, the turbo can compensate a lot for deficiencies in the inlet cam timing/ duration and restrictions in the intake and too much lift/ duration on the exhaust (overlap) can destroy the bottom end power  


so on balance, if someone came to me with the idea of re-profiling the cams or fitting vernier pullies on a turbo - diesel - i would advise against it - if it was an NA petrol - that would be different


If i had said to you 25years ago i could boost the power on a diesel Ford from 113Hp to 147Hp with no phisical modifications, and without opening the bonnet, just by plugging a Bluefin handset in to a socket under the dash - you would not have believed it and thought it was a joke, i was mad or B-S ing -  now, the remap has the biggest gain than everything else put together 

thats the way it is now


I agree i need a bit more revs- but without compromising the bottom end power - who could do the cams?


have you read right through my build thread?


V power diesel is much better than BP Ultimate. Refined to a higher standard and is a higher calorific value

I don't know if i can even get V power around here, i had to drive a 200 mile round trip to get the car dyno-ed (im in the "sticks") another reason i chose the Bluefin (no remappers for miles)  


not read it all mate, but ive got the general gist of if.


But my opinion is defo that cams and porting to suit the type of power band you require has headway, but like you say its £££££ from then on in.


Im pretty confident that with a bit of research and tinkering I could machine some cams and alter the intake, the portings and Valves, and the exhaust I could spread the torque curve out.


Take for example the Le-Mans diesel cars, they are peak torque from 1200 rpm right up to 5000 redline, obviously they do have a peak, but massive usable torque all the way through, so it can be done. Its just tickling out the info from the raceteams so you know where to head with it. I think for what your asking of the engine the bolt ons and remap is the best course of action. But if your wanting much more we really should be looking at machining parts, standalone ecu's etc


Do you have a straight through exhaust?? or is it just a de-cat that you have?


Oh and as to the LSD, youd be best just buying a Quaife unit for your box than mess with the RS box. Ive seen a few RS box's implode when theyre subject to big torque numbers. And it wont be geared right for your engine either. The RS is a lot higher revving than a diesel. 


Burton motorsport is the best place for Quaife, or Severn Valley motorsports. If your fairly tech savvy an LSD can be fitted in a weekend. Dont forget to do the clutch while your in there!! Youll kick yourself if the clutch goes 4 weeks after fitting the diff! Cos theyre not the easiest box to get off on the mk 3's


not read it all mate, but ive got the general gist of if.


But my opinion is defo that cams and porting to suit the type of power band you require has headway, but like you say its £££££ from then on in.


Im pretty confident that with a bit of research and tinkering I could machine some cams and alter the intake, the portings and Valves, and the exhaust I could spread the torque curve out.


Take for example the Le-Mans diesel cars, they are peak torque from 1200 rpm right up to 5000 redline, obviously they do have a peak, but massive usable torque all the way through, so it can be done. Its just tickling out the info from the raceteams so you know where to head with it. I think for what your asking of the engine the bolt ons and remap is the best course of action. But if your wanting much more we really should be looking at machining parts, standalone ecu's etc


Do you have a straight through exhaust?? or is it just a de-cat that you have?

Youve really got to read through it here is the "exhaust" spec (taken from the very 1st post) -



Exhaust -


2-1/2" SS heatwrapped decat -


gas flowed heatwrapped downpipe


Back- box delete


Straight - through 2-1/4" system with centre silencer


EGR delete on manifold


9.5kgs lighter - balanced for traction/ handling


To do - ceramic coat/ heatwrap the manifold which still has the stock heatshield


Basically its a 57mm/ 2-1/4" straight through system from the decat, there is a ("straight through")silencer in the middle  the downpipe had a ring of weld removed and was radioused where it comes out of the 2-1/2" decat, the decat has a (nessesary) bend in it but on this particular design of decat - it "turns down"/ pinches slightly, (not mandrel bent ) but this is not critical on the 63mm decat/ 57mm system, but i plan to get a better decat, 2-1/2" mandrel bent or bigger, and a 2-1/2" or 3" system  the centre silencer is probably quite heavy (estimated 10kgs) - i like the car to be fairly quiet (to go with the "sleeper" designation)


I know the larger diameter exhaust will help the turbo spool up quicker but is it liable to increase the top-end power/ revs as well?


I have dyno printouts with the power & torque curves - the peak power is just over 3600, if i could extend that to 4K / 4100,(without reducing the bottom end power) that would make a big difference       


tickover is at 900rpm and it can take full-throttle from 1000rpm (approx 30mph) in top, it accelerates from 30 to 100mph in under 27 seconds (safely off road!) in top gear, (or it did, its probably quicker than that now) and the 50-70mph in top has been timed at 5.5secs - there is not many cars on the road that can do that - i don't want to loose that ""never get cought out" flexibility + the car is much quicker "cross country" than its "on paper" figures suggest 


Oh and as to the LSD, youd be best just buying a Quaife unit for your box than mess with the RS box. Ive seen a few RS box's implode when theyre subject to big torque numbers. And it wont be geared right for your engine either. The RS is a lot higher revving than a diesel. 


Burton motorsport is the best place for Quaife, or Severn Valley motorsports. If your fairly tech savvy an LSD can be fitted in a weekend. Dont forget to do the clutch while your in there!! Youll kick yourself if the clutch goes 4 weeks after fitting the diff! Cos theyre not the easiest box to get off on the mk 3's

The (Focus mk1) RS box is an MTX75, same as mine, my gearing is ridiculusly undergeared for the power + torque i have now, 1st is miles too low, its a Quaife ATB that is fitted to the RS box anyway ive a fair bit more torque than an RS so i might be better on slicks for drag racing and stick with the stock diff (to protect the gearbox)   


Ive fitted a carbon fiber/ kevlar clutch  with solid flywheel - (some tima ago, but the car has not done a big milage sinse then) -


From my 1st post - (on this thread) -  

"Trans -


Mtx75 5-speed 'box


Solid flywheel conversion, dynamically balanced SMF to replace DMF


Carbon fiber and kevlar clutch - Heavy duty - 33% stronger - sprung plate


Short shifter (stock gearstick shortened and travel reduced by repositioning the cables)


Torque restrictor defeat switch (beside gearchange)


No form of traction control / ESP protects trans from torque (de-ristricted in all gears/ at all revs)


i think you have to read through the build thread when you get time :lol: 


Ok so exhaust is fine, I wouldnt have thought like you say a wider bore would give anymore top end. Your pretty much sorted there. You do come accross pretty well clued up tbf.


Wasnt aware the RS was an MTX box (never really delved into them that much to find out tho). Would I be right in assuming the RS is 6 speed too?? Im just trying to think of ways we could increase the gearing of yours at a lower cost. Certainly buying an RS box could be cheaper, but then your gonna be really undergeared especially if the diesel geared box is undergeared now.


Just out of interest is the st220 box an MTX75?? Cos im thinking the lsd and final drive from that coupled to your gearing would lengthen the gearing a bit to bring your gears to a more useful quantity?? 


Yes, all the mk3 Mondeos were MTX75 5-speed boxes from 2000 to about 2004(ish) including the petrol 4 cylinder models and the v6s (including the st220)  the MMT6 was available from about 2004, and was fitted to most of the mk3s, (petrols and diesels) it is reconed to be softer than the MTX75


The MMT6 was never fitted to the Mondeo MK3 TDDI (2.0 115PS), because it predates it (2000-2002) as far as i am aware, the RS Focus mk1 was never fitted with a 6-speed box, and only ever fitted with the MTX75 5-speed box (the RS mk1 predated the MMT6 box too)


The Focus ST170 had a 6-speed box, but it was not a Ford one, but from Getrag  the one with the dog-leg 1st


The ST220 has a 150mph top speed, but has a much higher redline than my diesel, the lower 130(ish) top speed (safely off road, of course) but lower revving diesel might mean the ratio in top is very similar


The gears may be stacked differently with the diesels closer on the bottom ratios and the petrols' closer near the top,


the gears are (roughly) 25, 40, 60(65),90(95) 130   to do my quarter mile, i could launch in 2nd, and let it rev out in 4th so i would only have 2 gear changes (although peak power is at 3600(for now) i could let it rev past this in 4th if im near the line) - its unlikely that i will get upto above 110 in the 1/4 mile and i don't need a higher ratio for the road, (though motorway cruising would be more relaxed, and economical - though the car hates motorways, and so do i ) so im happy its "restricted" to 130 ,(safely off road, of course)  


The dyno run was done in 4th - 3rd appears to have a similar powerband, but it revs higher is 2nd, and pulls til 4500, this could be just the lighter load in 2nd, or the effectively lighter flywheel (AC pulley and waterpump removed + the lighter car) meaning it revs through the band very fast and the turbo cannot produce boost fast enough giving it a rising poer characteristrict all the way to the redline, in 2nd - i found out it wanted to rev (and continued to pull) when i was practising launches/ timing my 0-60 - i got the 0-60 down to 7.1 (i know it sounds very slow, but an ST220 is not much quicker)


I can use different redlines in each gear, to maximise acceleration


I read that someone was preparing a GTR for drag racing, and had to leave the stock glass in the sides/ rear, to stay in a "street" class and if he fitted perspex, he had to run in an "open" "unlimited" class (against much quicker cars is there ant truth in this?)


I plan to run at a "run what you brung" it has different classes, FI (forced induction, can use nitrus etc) upto / above 2.0L NA upto / above 2.0L FWD / RWD/ awd / Unlimited, if you run nitrus on a NA it counts as FI, the cars don't have to be taxed / MOTd (as long as they pass scrutineering) you dont need to wear a helmet under 100mph, (if you need to it has to have the sticker RAC / FIA/ PMT? or whatever ) its very "clubby", the rules are fairly relaxed, you can run slicks, no problem, (or that "tyre melt" stuff, banned in some forms of racing)


Because of the relatively small no. of classes, i would be up against 300+ Hp <1000kg cars, (no chance of winning, even if it rains because mine is rubish in the rain too(mabee not if i had an LSD)) ironically, though the rules are stricter, there are more classes at "proper" drag racing at santa pod, i could even run in an "alternative (renuable/ eco) fuels" class with the veg oil, - Who knows - may even come back with some tinware for the mantlepiece :lol: - just kidding, i would be surprised if it did not come last, i just want to get a (some) 1/4 mile time(s) :)


PS - High speeds/ top end speed/ power is obviously not a priority                 


The gears may be stacked differently with the diesels closer on the bottom ratios and the petrols' closer near the top,


I think this is the way forwards, without researching I couldnt tell ya, but it holds weight with me. Sounds very feasable. As to drag racing regs, I have no idea, my knowledge is rally and circuit racing.

But getting the power down a bit better could shorten that 0-60 a fair bit.


You sound like your doing a grand job and im very interested in your results, and I dont believe for one sec youll come last. Give it a whirl you may be surprised!!


Thanks for that!  


If i stick with the stock diff, it will save a lot of money/ hassle, i could fit tit-x 18s on the fronts (lighter than the ST ones) on the front and spacesavers on the back (saw it on a US car show) - only for drag racing though-  The strips are very flat and grippy compared to the road so i might bo ok with the tyre softener etc - at least the trans is less liable to explode on the line without the ATB diff  


I took the rear door skins off to weigh them, 2kgs each! and the speakers in the doors 0.7kg - i put them back on, - i worked out i can save 20kgs by changing all the glass from the drivers/ passengers door back for perspex, apart from the weigh saving  a lot of the weight saving is behind the rear wheels (helping traction) and high up (better handling) i can get smoked perspex, so they would be tinted (to a pro standard) without the expense of tinting   


Ive checked and have been told it can pass a UK MOT with the perspex but as mentioned before, may put it in a quicker "unlimited" class in drag racing


MarkyR (on another thread on this site) said -

"" I was just reading some of your project thread FOCA, got to say I was a bit lost in it all haha. So what power in bhp does your car have at the mo then and what is it's 0 to 60 time? I'm guessing 6 to 7 seconds? And is it an estate or a hatchback? I couldn't see these facts in all the info you've posted so sorry if you have stated it all already. I was just curious as it looks like you've done tons to boost the performance whilst keeping your MPG "".


Thanks - most of the facts are there if you read it - It was measured at 160BHP in road trim running on diesel, at an initial 22psi and continuous 20psi, its interesting that a "180hp" ST-TDCI measured 135Hp at the wheels and my "160Hp" 2.0 produces 141Hp at the wheels  (the power that actually reaches the wheels is the one that matters, everything else is BS, really, because the 141 wheel Hp would be 190+ if measured the way the ST-TDCI was)  


About the 0-60mph -  


With all that torque going through the front wheels and  no form of traction control, wheelspin is a problem, 1st is far too low, and i have 2 gearchanges to 60, even if the conditions are perfect i get a different 0-60mph time each time, depending on the amount of clutch slip/ wheelspin - im working on improving the traction - its quicker than a (stock) ST-TDCI 0-60, my next target is getting it quicker than an ST220 (0-60mph and 1/4 mile)   


i set up the adjustable tuning box and boost controller by timing the acceleration, then i discovered about an indicated 65 was actually 60mph, so none of my figures were accurate, but to compare the old figures to new (to know how much its improving) i had to carry on using the same (inaccurate) methods of timing - if/ when i go to a drag strip, the timings will be accurate    


So I just put the 0-60 as a conservative "under 8 seconds"



huey45 , on another thread, said -  


Hi I read your article on your extensively modified Mondeo
and being honest I was totally baffled in some items you
described you must be very knowledgeable or clever
also what you have done must have cost a small fortune

I have heard that a free flow
air filter will help with a little HP gain
and possible water injection into intake manifold downstream of
air filter
to make incoming air a lot more focus goes like stink
on a very wet day, but I chicken out on lack the of road grip.....LOL



FOCA's reply -


Thank you -  a lot of the stuff was taken from various forms of motorsport, or things that are popular on modified cars in other countries, or on petrol turbo cars etc and were not my idea (a couple were my idea though)


It was not as expensive as it seems, when something needed replaced (eg the exhaust or the DMF) it was replaced with a better one often for about the same/ just a bit more than a stock one


Yes, traction in the wet can be a problem on a front-wheel-drive car   


When you did the AC delete and used a shortened belt, which belt did you use? :-)


When you did the AC delete and used a shortened belt, which belt did you use? :-)

I did the AC delete a couple of years ago, i bought loads of different belts before i found one that fitted, i forgot which one it was.  


Finally fitted the electronic controller for the electric waterpump, had to make a special adaptor for the sender


still switch the controller on manually 'till i see how i get on with it - seems much better tha having to keep switching the manual switch off/on as the temp goes up/down (thats with the thermostat in)  


Plan to fit a lightweight radiator fan - the pump controller  


Also rewired the water temp/ voltage modules so i can switch them off and they start on volts/ temp without having to "fiddle" with them


Used the switch that used to be used for the torque restrictor defeat for operating the boost controller (its beside the gearshift and im going to see if i get quicker launches with low boost ) - only use the torque restrictor defeat for ice/ snow anyway


Got lots of little things to do and plan to get as much done as possible while the weather is good & i have time 


Awesome thread with awesome mods! Very informative too, gives me a few ideas ;) .

Wish Ford had fitted a TDDI in my Fusion so i could also run veg. oil, used to run it in my Benz and liked the smell of it :) .


Update -


I MOTd the car recently - i always had trouble with the rear brakes /handbrake and last year i gave it to a mechanic to fix,(i hate working on brakes (or gearboxes!)) he replaced one rear caliper and brake caple and it got it through the last MOT but did not work well and kept sticking on - so i just parked the car "in gear"  


So before the MOT i replaced the rear caliper on the other side and both handbrake cables (they tend to get stretched and its best to replace them as a pair)


So with 2 new handbrake cables, and a new rear caliper, and a year-old one (its incredible how rough it looks after just one year!) i reconed i could get the handbrake working nicely


1st i fitted the new caliper,- i clamped the flexi cable and fitted it on, then bled the system - and the (foot) brakes worked well with this


When i was under the car i noticed the rust underneath - i kurust and hammerite under the car every couple of years and the hammerite paint was flaking off because it was rusting under that (the rust was not that bad- it dir not require welding etc)


To cut a long story short i knocked all the old loose paint off the underside of the car (and suspension and wheel wells ) with a small hammer, wire-brushed it, de-greased it (with detergent) by hand with a scrubbing brush rinsed it and kurust-ed the lot - so now there is no visible/ surface rust on the underside of the car, at all/ it looks black - and next time it should be a lot easier


I fitted the handbrake cables, the levers on the calipers go back to the stops (apparently if they don't it can damage the helix inside the calipers and the handbrake auto-adjust does not work(the caliper pistons have to be unwound a certain way too))  i got them all nicely adjusted and then tied the cables up nicely using cable ties (so they did not hang down like they used to) andv i re-routed the cable(s) slightly to keep it away from the heat of the exhaust (this had meler the plastic on the old cable)


So the underside was completely rustproofed and the handbrake worked perfectly for the 1st time in years


I had also refurbed all wy wheels (got loads) including de-greasing, preparing and  rustproofing and painting (outside and in) all my steelies - i through out some old, worn tyres and replaced them with some i had bought on ebay last year - some turned out to be "lemons" and could not be used, and one if my rims had a split on it - so i have less spares than expected - still plenty though, and it will be a while (probably a couple of years) before i have to buy new tyres


I had bought new front discs/ pads as as set (stock genuine Ford) and rear discs/pads in previous years, so they were good, - i considered upgrading them (EG- Focus st225 are bigger front discs) but this would add weight and MK3s all have the same brakes (including the 150mph ST220) and with the car bieing lightened 150kgs the brakes work well (and i dont have a "heavy braking driving style - i like to keep the momentum up- that and the lightness is probably why the brakes seem to last)


I had spent weeks under the car, rustproofing it etc, so i decided to stick the car in for the MOT, to see what it needed, -to my surprise,  it passed 1st time with just a couple of minor advisories (the tester was probably distracted to see a 10+ year old car with an immaculate underside :lol: )


I bought and fitted the electronic temp controller (for the electric waterpump) the engine  warms up quicker now, and seems to be faster too (and probably has a better MPG) 


Now its MOTd i can get on with the serious modifications!                   

Just goes to show you if you want a job done right, do it yourself lol

When i was getting the the car MOT'd i discussed changes to the exhaust and the implications on passing the MOT, and it seems i can have the exhaust made shorter, withn less twists and turns


This makes it lighter, and easier/lighter   to heatwrap the entire exhaust


the less twists/ turns and reduced length will reduce drag/ back pressure on the gas-flow, helping the turbine spool up quicker  


Ive already removed part (about 2-feet/ 3kgs) of the rear section, and the engine picks up a bit quicker from low revs, ive got some quicker 4th-gear acceleration times from this but some of my data is old and there have been improvements to the car since some of these accelerations were timed - im happy the car is getting quicker and quicker 


The 3kgs is at the back, behind the rear wheels, its not a big amount but i can feel a (slight) difference in traction, especially in the wet - the 3kgs section ive removed is temporary, and there will be another 2 to 3 kgs section removed (so 5 to 6kgs in total)


The exhaust will then also be much straighter (less bends in it)


i will need to cut off part of the old exhaust to do this, and make new hangers with rubber mounts and metal ties


the middle silencer will still be in place, but the exhaust is already louder with a "rip" to it that is not very "diesel-like" 


Once this "new" exhaust configiration is done i will be re-connecting the tuning box,it will need to be re-adjusted for the new exhaust setup and the remap, but initial tests reveal the engine should (at least) pick up quicker and pull stronger from low revs than with just the remap nce the shorter/ straighter exhaust is ready          




ive shortened the exhaust, sound-wise its a little bit deeper on tickover and a bit louder on "full-chat" but utherwise much the same


power-wise there is less power really low down, then there is more of a "step" in the powerband and the power comes in with a "rush"/ "bang" (when "booting" it) the power delivery reminds me of a two-stroke motorcycle, like a Yamaha 350LC


the exhaust is now another 5kgs lighter (not includinmg the 3.3kgs) - taking it to (approx) - 155kgs


A large-diameter exhaust will be simpler/ cheaper/ easier to make now (copying to new route) and work better


So the exhaust must be helping the turbine spin up quicker - unfortunately its a bit too quick - and the boost peaks too high for the boost controller to catch it, i had a pipe blow off, and ive reset the boost controller and shortened the small pipes going onto the (stand- alone electronic) boost controller solenoid (to give it a faster response) - and ive adjusted the controller down to (a continuous) 20psi 


What is happening is when i floor the throttle, the turbine spins up (very fast/ faster than before) this spins the compressor up, pressurising the boost hoses, through the intercooler and onto the inlet manifold, the pick-up-point for the boost controller (+ boost gauge) is on the manifold, with how quickly the boost pressure rises, by the time the pressure signal reaches the boost controller/ sensor, the boost is "off the scale" or more than desired/ enough to upset the ECU (especially in the lower gears)  


i will need to re-route the pressure signal pick-up-point for the boost controller/ sensor closer to the compressor, if i fit it onto the same lines as the (boost controller) solenoid/ wastegate, it migh interfere with the solenoid/ wastegate (eg - boost pumping/ etc) but if i used a chamber/ volume in the line to the controller it may fix this.


i would need a second line through the bulkhead to the controller (one for the boost gauge, one for the boost controller) - adding to the compexity (more to go wrong) i couold have 2 boost gauges (ive got a 2nd one) one for the manifold, and one for the controller (pre intercooler) the boost controllers would measure the intercooler pressure-drop in real time then  


i may have to experiment with the controller/ sensor pick-up-point, to avoid boost pumping/ compressor stall, etc, and so i get just a little overboost, i will leave the boost gauge pick-up and my presently fitted boost gauge pick-up in the same place, to make comparisons, to how it was - ive never fitted 2 boost gauges to a car before so it will be interesting to see how that turns out/ how much of a pressure drop i get across the intercooler - i can even compare different intercoolers!


Untill i get the overboost/ boost spiking sorted out - i can't set up/ (re)fit the tuning box and the exhaust also needs a few finishing touches too - im hoping the tuning box will give the engine a bit more grunt at the bottom end (it did before) & ive been timing the 30mph -up in 4th up a very steep hill (safely off, course) so i can measure any improvements i make / set the car/ boost/ tuning box up just right  


It will be interesting to see how it turns out   


UPDATE - ive been running with the boost controller disconnected, and the remap un-installed and the tuning box set at the standard setting it came with - still fairly quick compared to most cars but not quite its full potential  


I thought i had to re-position the pick-up point of the controller, but it turns out the (small diameter hose) pipe to the controller was porus/ leaking, so i was both loosing boost and it was giving the controller a false reading, so it tried to increase the boost untill it was too high - with a new silicone hose the boost controller works again


After test-driving the car  I set the boost on the 2nd stage to 20PSI (it runs about 16 stock) i then dis-connected the tuning box and re-installed the Bluefin remap, i took it for another spin and its really "flying" again, it feels even quicker than ever,  this is the 1st time i have had it all working right and with the short exhaust pipe, i get a pit of boost pumping, and overboost (i set it at 20PSI and it bosts to over 22) the boost comes in very strong/ quickly, its hard to keep up with the boost gauge, the power drlivery is very strong, almost "explosive" in the lower gears,


Looks like i will need to get it on the dyno again and re-time all the performance times as the old ones will be out of date, i might wait till i get some of the new parts fitted 1st


Im resetting the ECU for the latest setup

How have you shortened the boost hoses? And have you completely removed the egr system from
Your car?

How have you shortened the boost hoses? And have you completely removed the egr system from
Your car?

Yes, the boost hoses are shorter, and a better shape, with less turns, for better gas flow (more power), as well as  turbo stays hot and inlet stays cool, like it should, also for better power/ efficiency


After you have fitted a solid EGR blanking plate, the next step is removing all the EGR components, as they are effectively disabled when the plate is fitted, on the TDDI, with the EGR at the back, the boost hoses are a "bad" shape and have a long travel as they wind their way around the engine, ditching the EGR and shortening the hoses probably makes a big difference on this car/ engine, it may be less so on other engines  

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