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steesh

Just bought some of this stuff, just wondering if anyone knows where i spray it into the engine, am thinking you disconnect the hose after the MAF but heard this can then create a error code.

 

Saw a vid on youtube of someone using it on a focus and he was spraying it straight into the EGR itself.

 

Any help would be appreciated, i shall post most findings once i have done it, with a few pictures etc

 

Cheers

jeebowhite

if  your using the V3 product: http://www.wynns.uk.com/pDocs/23379_EN_INS.pdf

 

Warm the engine up.

 

Long story short, take the air hose off between the air filter and the turbo, spray in short bursts of 1 - 2 seconds, and then leave the engine to idle again. When back to idle continue the treatment. do so until the can is consumed :)

stevegtuk

The other option would be to take the egr off and clean it manualy. It is easy to get to as its next to the manifold, and taking it off will make sure you get every bit of carbon and muck out of it. as the same time you can clean the hoses and masnifold too as they are often coked.

If the egr and manifold are heavily blocked, squirting cleaner in may loosen it and send large chunks of it into the cylinders, which may possibly bugger the engine up.

For the sake of an hour or twos work, its better to be safe.

FOCA

I concur with what steve says

 

Here is a picture of a Mk3 Mondeo EGR valve, like yours, before it is cleaned with petrol & small hard brush -

 

 

this is what it should look like -

 

 

If the "super dooper" cleaner really works effectively its going to loosten off all that carbon (thats just the valve, the inlet manifold may be choka with carbon too) and its going to go right through your engine, through your inlet manifold, your combustion chambers your exhaust valves, your VNT vanes, your turbine your exhaust (including your cat, and DPF(if fitted, a mk3 Mondeo does not have one )) 

 

If it does not work then its just a waste of money

 

Its just a solvent, like soap, detergent, petrol, meths, paint thinners, mr muscle etc, a lot of these things are much cheaper than EGR creaner and have been found to be more effective  

 

You really must take the EGR valve off, and the inlet manifold, and clean them properly (i found the best way was to hand it to a valeter, who used a high-pressure steam jetwash on it), if you cannot do that just stick the blanking plate on it (and no more- it will effectively disable the EGR valve/ system, no more carbon/ gunge will go through any more after it is fitted) 

 

At best the EGR cleaner is only good for a "quick fix" solution for unsticking gummed up EGR valves

 

 

steesh

Mine doesnt have the electrical contacts so does that mean my car is a euro 3 therefore the eml light will not come on if i blank it

FOCA

Mine doesnt have the electrical contacts so does that mean my car is a euro 3 therefore the eml light will not come on if i blank it

Yes, you can fit a solid EGR blanking plate and the EML will not come on,

FOCA

This is where you fit the blanking plate -

 

 

It is easy/ accessable (compared to some other fords)

 

You can get a slot-in blanking plate-

 

 

Just loosten the two small nuts off and drop the plate in

 

so you dont even have to take the nuts off the EGR valve (the nuts are easy to drop) but the other kind of solid plate is ok too (you would have to remove the nuts, pull the metal EGR pipe back from the valve, place the blanking plate on, then replace the pipe, put the nuts back on- thats it! ) 

 

 

EDIT - Solid, stainless steel plates are best (3mm or thicker if you can get them) the ones with holes to let the gasses through are useless,(defeats the purpose of the plate, and must be used with a working EGR valve/ system - solid ones can "fix" a faulty valve system, because it "disables" it) aluminium can melt,(EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation - exhaust gasses can get very hot) and mild steel rusts  

 

 

 

 

 

the Valve itself comes off easy too but be carefull you dont strip/ overtighten the bolts when you put it back on, it can be a really messy job cleaning it.

steesh

Thanks, i'll order one of ebay

stevegtuk

This is where you fit the blanking plate -

 

attachicon.gifegr valve locationfor plate -.jpg

 

It is easy/ accesable (compared to some other fords)

 

You can get a slot-in blanking plate-

 

attachicon.gifslot-in egr valve blanking plate.jpg

 

Just loosten the two small nuts off and drop the plate in

 

so you dont even have to take the nuts off the EGR valve (the nuts are easy to drop) but the other kind of solid plate is ok too (you would have to remove the nuts, pull the metal EGR pipe back from the valve, place the blanking plate on, then replace the pipe, put the nuts back on- thats it! ) 

 

 

EDIT - Solid, stainless steel plates are best (3mm or thicker if you can get them) the ones with holes to let the gasses through are useless,(defeats the purpose of the plate, and must be used with a working EGR valve/ system - solid ones can "fix" a faulty valve system, because it "disables" it) aluminium can melt,(EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation - exhaust gasses can get very hot) and mild steel rusts  

 

 

 

 

 

the Valve itself comes off easy too but be carefull you dont strip/ overtighten the bolts when you put it back on, it can be a really messy job cleaning it.

+1 on getting a blank without a hole.

steesh

Do you think blanking the EGR will cure my very lumpy idle

FOCA

Do you think blanking the EGR will cure my very lumpy idle

I don't know, probably not, these cars are a lot smoother one you warm them up, and when they are 1st started they are not very "refined"

 

With the plate fitted the engine should rrive smoother/ pull better from lower revs with less hesitation/ flat spots, and better throttle response from lower revs, it was a long time ago that i blanked mine, and everyone seems to have slightly different results (or they describe it differently) - let us know how you get on!

 

To get your tickover & running smoother, you may have to completely remove/ clean out your EGR valve, inlet manifold, and intercooler   

steesh

One last thing lol, the car makes quite a loud tickety noise when cold and under acceleration, dies down after a few miles, is that normal?

FOCA

One last thing lol, the car makes quite a loud tickety noise when cold and under acceleration, dies down after a few miles, is that normal?

Yes, its the same engine as used in black cabs and transits, so if it sounds like a taxi or truck - now you know why

 

A good service or fresh, quality oil can help quieten it down, or a louder exhaust or inlet can help "drown it out" (don't ask why i know this :lol: ) 

 

When the EGR valve opens you get a "missing" sound, like its blowing from one of the exhaust ports or if the exhaust manifold gasket is leaking (with a functioning EGR system, in a way, it is)

 

When you fit your EGR blanking plate this noise goes away

 

the noise of a cold diesel engine is more a "tappetty" noise

 

Other noises on the mk3 diesel include rattling AUX belt/ pulley/ tensioner (at tickover, even when warmed up) and when the DMF is on its way out, after a while, you can recognise the different noises  

 

Mine sounds a bit like a massive van/ small truck, i might start eating Yorkie bars  :lol:

mondeotdci130

clean your EGR and the manifold off the car, catch the sh1te in a bucket not in your engine...

mondeotdci130

Ive had 2 Mondeo 130 (a euro 3 and this euro 4) and a Tourneo with the TDCI 125, same engine, all had EGR faults

 

Dont know what car to buy next but it may not be a diesel...

steesh

Well, due to the numerous faults i have decided to cut my losses and part ex the car, a few faults i can handle but it was growing on a daily basis, car was quite obviously not looked after by the previous owner and i dont have a bottomless wallet.

 

Thanks for all the advice over the past couple of weeks and i hope you all have more luck than i did with mine :)

FOCA

Well, due to the numerous faults i have decided to cut my losses and part ex the car, a few faults i can handle but it was growing on a daily basis, car was quite obviously not looked after by the previous owner and i dont have a bottomless wallet.

 

Thanks for all the advice over the past couple of weeks and i hope you all have more luck than i did with mine :)

Sorry to hear you are cutting your losses - this can be a sensible option - the car is only worth x amount no matter what you spend on it

 

I have had mine more than 7 years now, the only major fault i have had is the DMF, which i "nursed" along for almost a year before upgrading to a solid flywheel/ stronger/better clutch  

 

The only time i've seen an EML come on/ limp home mode in all those years is when i had not plugged my tuning box in right or me turning the boost up too much and blowing hoses off

 

Apart from that my car has been very reliable and year in/ year out exellent value - i think a lot of it comes down to luck, good servicing and making the right decisions (knowledge - like fitting a solid EGR blanking plate) and staying away from main dealers :lol:  (and the TDDI injectors are tough and reliable, mine are still the originals)  

steesh

Theres just so much to go wrong on these modern diesels its unbelievable, and not just fords, ive seen it on other forums, vauxhalls, saabs, bmw etc etc, all to do with emissions and egr valves, am back onto petrol :blink:

jeebowhite

I think to be fair its all modern motors, petrol can be just as problematic! shame to see you go, but hope you do return to the blue oval, maybe with a FSH mondeo instead?

steesh

Aye my previous 2 cars were fords, never had much of a problem with them until now, shame cos a loved the car, a wont tell you what am driving now tho  :whistling:

jeebowhite
Please tell us you did not flip to the dark side... It might be a case of `steesh? Who?` lol...


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