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Gombal

Born: 30-11-2004

Adopted by current owner: 26-04-2013

Type: Ford Fusion 1.4 TDCI Trend

Milage at time of adoption: 86485

 

After driving a Merc for about 4 years it was time for something else (mainly because of changing regulations for oldtimers).

Never owned a Ford before, drove a few in the past (way back in 1987, Ford Escorts), rentals, when i just had my driving license but didn't have money to buy a car.

 

First looked at a Fiesta but because of the carpooling the choice fell on a Fusion, bit bigger and easier to fit 4 grown ups.

And because of the somewhat higher sit it also suited our own needs better.

 

I will try to write all the things i do on the Fusion in this log, for everybody else and of course for myself :)

 

First thing i did when i bought the car was change al the filters and the oil (bought the car relatively cheap so that kind of maintenance wasn't included in the deal)

Changed the fuelfilter, oilfilter and airfilter. Also new Ford oil in the motor so i could start fresh. No pics of this but don't think that matters, everybody knows how to do that. ;)

Also changed the fanbelt, it had more crackles than a 400 year old painting!

 

Gombal

Because of the fact that beneath 1500 rpm the engine wouldn't pick up nicely i wanted to do something about my EGR valve.

I have a electronic one so i can't close it off completely without getting unwanted lights popping up in the dash.

After searching the internet i found a topic on how to do it  (http://www.fordclub.be/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=11152) It's in dutch but Google Translate is your friend ;) .

Made a 2 mm (0,08 inch) thick stainless steel plate in the shape of the metal gasket, drilled a 6 mm (0.,23 inch) hole in the middle and put it in.

Wasn't that easy, you need small hands and very agile fingers. Luckely i also drilled a small hole in the protrusion that i made a little bigger than original. A piece of wire through it and you won't lose it when it falls.

 

Sadly i forgot to take pictures but when you look at the link it's quite similar so you have an idea.

 

The change in engine pick up from low revs is instantely noticable, drives a lot more relaxed because it won't stuuter at low revs anymore.

 

Thinking of removing the whole EGR valve managment when i will get the ECU remapped, than i can remove all the EGR stuff (valve, cooler and pipe) and block off the hole . But that is something for the future, remapping isn't that cheap so i will only do that when i don't know what to do with my money anymore :)  (could be a long time, also renovating our house and thats eating away all the money at this point)

Gombal

Because the engine didn't reach it's working temperature (not very noticable on the temperaturemeter in the dash by the way) i ordered a new thermostat.

The fact that i know my engine wasn't reaching the right temperature is because of the fact that i also installed my Scangauge II (ripped it from my wife's car, she didn't like that but she only drives around town so she doesn't need it ;) )

I can see al kinds of data from the OBD2 plug so very convenient, can also clear troublecodes, even more convenient.

The temperature didn't get higher than 158 (70 Celsius), a new thermostat opens at 181 (83 Celsius) so i knew the old one wasn't good.

 

When i changed the thermostat i also changed the cooling fluid, had to drain it anyway.

 

Car runs a lot better now it reaches working temperature, the difference 23 degrees can make! (Again, unfortunately no pics :( )

 

At the same time i removed my DPF, the car was imported from Germany by the previous owner and there you need all kinds of extra's to get a green sticker so you can drive into the city.

As it was not registered as having a DPF they don't check for it at the MOT (APK here in Holland).

Bought a cheap middle piece of exhaust (29 euros online) and replaced the DPF and the remaining piece of middle pipe.

 

Wasn't that easy, there is no way to get to the nuts at the back of the motor so i had to grind the haeds of, drilled the bolts out and than it came loose. Not very easy lying on the ground underneath the car.

 

This is the DPF, is still in very good shape, the rest of the middle piece of the exhaust wouldn't have lasted very long so i was just in time :) .

 

Engine runs even better now, it can breath a lot easier now so also a very good modification to do and relatively easy and cheap.

Gombal

One of the things i liked in the Merc was it's self dimming rear view mirror (also a diy job ^_^ )

 

When i visited the scrapyard i found 2 mirrors, one from a Focus, the other one from a Mondeo.

Because the Focus version looked nicer i wanted that one in my car.

Unfortunately the way it is fixed is totally different from the fusion so i had to do a little re-engeneering.

The problem also was that i didn't know which wire was what. 3 wires and no clue what positive, negative and reverse was.

So i did a liitle try and error but none of the combinations gave me a working mirror.

I than tried the Mondeo one, this one had 2 knobs, Auto and Off. When i hooked that one up the led came on and it looked like it was working.

Her also the fixation needed some work.

 

After i installed it i had to wait till dark (you can block the sensor in the front and shine a torch on the sensor in the back but i couldn't see it properly because it was very Sunny that day.) Somehow it didn't work quite as well as i hoped, it had a mind of it's one regarding dimming, or it wouldn't dim, or it dimmed but just ever so slightly.

 

This mirror was exactly the same as the mirror which i had in the Merc (Merc is still standing in the backyard, awaiting restoration) so i got the mirror from the Merc out.

It looked exactely the same but the Merc version was a bit wider but would fit nicely between the sunvisors.

 

I remodeled a fixation arm from an extra Fusion mirror i had laying around (drilled a hole in the ball joint for the wires and grinded the sides of the balljoint so it would fit into de bigger ball of the Merc joint, fixed it with a grooved pin)

I only connected the positive and the negative wire, the wire for the reverse i didn't use because i don't understand the philosophy, it is no big deal to be blinded is you're driving backwards, strange philosophy :wacko:

 

And now it works like a charm!

(If look closely you can see the Mercedes mark on the back of the mirror, it's from a A class. Tha malfunctioning one from the Mondeo is from the same brand Gntx? but a little smaller)

Gombal

The Scangauge II, not much to tell but it adds a lot in my opinion, i like to drive as economical as possible so this is a big help cause you can see you're fuel consumption in realtime.

It has to learn so it will be accurate after about 10 times refueling but after that you don't need your onboard fuel meter anymore (not much use for it anyway, a pile of blocks which isn't very accurate)

 

It also fits nicely underneath the center console, good view at it and a bit protected against the sun.

Gombal

i have to drive 44 miles to work everyday, well almost everyday, i work in shifts.

The other nice thing about the Merc were the adjustable headrests, not just in height but also vertically. That way you could rest your head against it whilst driving, most of the 44 miles is on the motorway so that way you could relax your neckmuscles a bit whilst driving.

The Fusion doesn't have that option so i couldn't drive as relaxed as i was used to.

I did however have a spare headrest laying around from the Merc.

Amazingly the distance between the 2 metal rods is identical so that opened up new perspectives!

 

The rods on the Mercs headrest als much longer though and als slightly bent. They also are massive, the Fusion's are hollow. Well, for the price the Merc cost in 1986 i could buy 3 Fusion's in 2004 so the difference has to be noticable somewhere ^_^ .

 

But because the rods had the same distance between them i shorted the Merc rods so they were the same lenght as the Fusion's ones. Then i grinded some slots in one rod, just like in one of the Fusion's rod. I made just simple slots, 99% of the time i'm driving the Fusion so it doesn't need much room for adjustment.

 

The fabric of the Merc headrest is also black, pattern is different ofcourse but if you don't know it you won't see it. Maybe in the future i will change the fabric to the original, a piece of backseat fabric from a Fiesta/Fusion from the scrapyard will do nicely but i'm in no hurry with it.

Gombal

One small but very comforting job, the lid on top of the dashboard had some weird shining black plastic glued on it.

It didn't look nice because it was a bit wrinkled but the biggest thing was that it blinded you whilst driving in the sun.

So i peeled off the plastic and the matte original finish appeared. Sadly it was damaged and ther ewas glue residual on it from the plastic.

I tried to remove it with terpentine ( i think the english word for that is white spirit ) but that didn't work.

Then i took some thinner (don't know if it the same in english but it's a bit more agressive as white spirit) and that worked. It didn't dissolve the plastic of the lid but it did remove the original dull semi rubber layer.

Now it looked even worse than before :( .

I sanded it with waterproof sandpaper, grid 2000 or something like that.

Then i spraypainted it with matte black paint i had in my shed and this is the result!

Looks factory made and it doesn't blind me anymore when driving in the sun!

Gombal

One of the most valueable option a car can have in my opinion is cruise control. Sadly a Fusion never had that option.

Luckely i had a John Gold (or Waeco, they're the same) 500 and a 300 laying around.

The 300 is with a vacuum servo, the 500 is with an electric servo.

The last one i needed because the Fusion is drive by wire so nothing to connect a vacuumservo to underneath the bonnet. Or a electric servo for that matter.

 

The only way was to connect the servo to the gas pedal so that is what i did. Took al little engineering but with a little stainless steel (same thickness as the EGR restriction plate), a little piece of thick Lexan polycarbonate and some fitting and measuring it works.

Then i had to decide where the servo needed to go, first thought of underneath the centerconsole but there is not enough room.

Then the most easiest place was underneath the drivers seat, little velcro sticked to the bottom of the servo and it's going no where.

 

The next problem was where to get al the signals. The easiest way to get the speed signal is behind the radio. (Pin 14, white/green)

So i took the dash apart, all relatively simple. The switched positive i took from the ignition switch (green/yellow wire), there is already a fuse incorporated in the wire of the cruise control.

The signal from the brake switch is easy, + and -.

 

The biggest problem was the control switch/stalk. I took the cruisecontrol out of the Merc and there i used an original Mercedes stalk which i soldered to the right wires of the cruisecontrol.

I don't have a John Gold or Waeco control switch or stalk so i had to think of something else. I did however have 2 VDO stalks.

Soldered the VDO stalk to the John Gold harness and put everything in the car.

After some trail i only had to switch 2 wires on the control to get it all working perfectly!

I also thought about a signal stalk from a facelift Fusion and actually bought one from Ebay. But it only has one extra knob so at this point it is in but the knob at the end has no use at this moment. You can see it on one of the pics, the Re/Set knob at the end of the signal stalk.

 

Gombal

Well thats it for now, the next mod will be the removal off the katalyst, waiting for the turbogasket at this moment so i can use that as a mold for the flange i need to make.

Still have some pipe left from the old middle piece of exhaust and a piece of Mercedes exhaust so i can experiment with making a nice kat replacement pipe.

 

To be continued......

Gombal

Ordered 2 more keys (have only one) from a webshop, one with remote control, the other without.

Also bought a Ford-VCM-OBD thingy, a chinese clone.

Just programmed one key, the remote control key, in PATS. Don't know what i did exactly but it works!

The other one i couldn't get it right, will try an other time, already happy with 2 working keys!

Still have to go to the keymaker to make them fit but the remote control and starting is already working so the hardest part is over.

Gombal

This morning a little work on my homemade cat replacement pipe.

Had a 1 cm ( 0.4 inch) thick piece of steel that i want to make into a flange.

i drew the outlines of the gasket on the steel plate and with a little drill i drilled out the inner hole and the 4 holes to put the flange on the turbo.

Then i cut out the remaining bits between the drilholes to get the whole piece out if the middle. I just used a handsaw, still have to file or grind the hole nice and smooth.

Then i drilled the 4 holes to the right size, 9 mm (o.35 inch) in this case.

I still have a piece of stainless steel exhaust pipe from my Merc, 1 size bigger as the Ford's exhaust so i will make a cat replacement out of that piece of pipe, that way i can simply cut the original exhaust at the first bend underneath the engine and simply slip on the new pipe. With a clamp it will be simple and strong enough, it's the same way you would do it if you're flexible piece of exhaust would be damaged and had to be replaced.

Only this time i will not replace the flexible part but the catalyst, but the idea is the same.

 

Not feeling to well now, sick, when i feel better the work wil continue!

Gombal

Because i didn't want to hijack [url=http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/26538-guide-to-converting-stock-climate-controls-to-custom-set/page-9#entry268110]this thread[/url] here the rest of the subtle disassembly try of the heating knobs of a Fiesta/Fusion.

I thought the knobs would come out if i would stick 3 knifes between the backside of the knob and the 3 holding fingers. But that didn't work, not even close cause i couldn't get the knifes between the fingers and the knob!

So i took my Dremel, ground off 1 of the fingers at each knob and pushed the knobs out, that is, i thought that would be what should happen.

Only the fan speed knob came off real easy. The other 2 i gave a little tap with the back of the knobs and they came out, the "choice where does my air come out" knob broke of an other finger in the process.

See the pictures for the aftermath of the whole thing.

Still in debate if i order 3 Focus knobs and make them fit, i really like the more refined and chique look of the round knobs.

Also found Mazda knobs on Ebay which have 2 knobs with similar fixing forms in the back of the knobs like a Focus/Fiesta/Fusion and 1 with a round hole with a flat side like the middle knob of a Fiesta/Fusion. Sadly there are no measurements given.

 

Edit: Just ordered black Focus knobs, will see if they will fit! (With a little work ;) )

Gombal

Went to the scrapyard today, picked up a extra headrest for the backseat, only have two and i really wanted the third one, not necessarily for using it but it looks better with three i think.

Also found a interiour light with reading lights, simple plug and play. Nice!

Picture i borrowed from internet cause i didn't take any pics.

 

Also saw a Peugeot 206 1.4HDI with the motor still in. Tried to get the exhaust off the turbo but didn't have the right tools with me. Have to go back again tomorrow with the right tools and see if i can get it off. Would make making a cat replacement pipe a lot easier if i don't have to make everything myself ;) Hope it's still there tomorrow, there having spring cleaning as far as i could see, lot's of empty spaces.

Gombal

Went to the junkyard this morning and got the manifold/pipe from the turbo to the cat.

Also the clamp and some pieces of pipe, this will make it al lot easier to decat the Fusion!

Why Peugeot/Citroen is a lot smarter (in my opinion) with the construction of the exhaust i don't know, exhaust from the turbo to the middle piece consist out of 3 pieces instead of one at the Ford. So easier to remove or replace (or smash the inside out of your cat ;) )

Also the way the clutch is operated, simply a cable or when it's hydraulic with a cilinder outside the gearbox/clutchhousing.

Wondering if the 206 gearbox would be a direct swap with the Fusion's gearbox as to bolt locations etc.

If you look at the gearratio's they're different but 1 to 3 are a bit shorter (2 km/hr slower at the same revs so you're a bit quicker through the first 3 gears) but 4th and 5th are identical. (with 195/60-15 tires)

The gearbox on the 206 where i got the exhaust pieces from was damaged at the front otherwise i would have asked directly and maybe even took it with me. That clutch was cable operated, no more hassling with bleeding the clutch or if it leaks, brake fluid in the clutch housing or even worse, on the clutch plate.

And the clutch pedal won't grab at the highest point like now, that's what i hate about the Ford's clutch the most. With a cable you can simply adjust it to your own likings.

Gombal

Today i got the "eco" powerbox, hope to put it in tomorrow.

Couldn't resist to open it but not much to see.  Very curious what the feelable difference will be. and off course the measurable.

Gombal

This morning put in the powerbox. They couldn't have picked a worse place to put the plug, you can hardly see it and it's even worse if you want to reach it!

Took me about 2 hours to get it all in, took of the air intake box, all the air intake tubing/piping and because i still couldn't get it off also the battery.

Made a little helper so i could reacht the tab that is holding the plug and after that it went real smooth. Took me 1,5 hour to get to that point :blink: .

When i took it for a testdrive i also connected my bluetooth OBD2 module and my tablet so i could gather some data to analyze later.

The most noticable change is the car runs stronger from 1500 to 3000 rpm (haven't gone any higher so have tot test that in the future).

But i didn't want it for the extra power, i want to drive more economical. My Scangauge is a little confused now i think, normally the fuelconsumption (LHK aka litres per 100 kilometre) is relatively stable if you're driving a steady speed on the cruise control. Now it fluctuated up and down so i think it doesn't like what the powerbox is doing.

We'll see how that's gonna hold.

 

What i did see is that i definitely need an intercooler, inlet temp. was 8 to 10 degrees higher compared to a few days ago but outside temp. isn't 8 to 10 degrees hotter, only about 5. (all in Celsius)

Will look for a 1.6TDCI (or 1.6HDI Peugeot) intercooler, looking at some pics that should be the easiest fix.

Gombal

Modified the airinlet, the original pipe has a 90 degree turn just behind the radiator and gets its air from under the bonnet, so warm air with a bit of cold air coming from between the gap between the radiator and the left headlamp.

It's doesn't look like much yet, have to go to the scrap yard tomorrow to get some black plastic which i can make into a decent air scoop.

But to test this works flawlessly, the air intake temp. stays the same as the outside temp. Before it was 2-3 degrees higher (Celsius)

So already a simple modification will make it breath cooler air, nothing compared to a intercooler but for the timebeing this will suffice.

Did demolish the 90 degree plastic piece but that doesn't matter.

Will also have to cut and modify some sharp edges from the black plastic frame at the bottom of the airscoop to make it flush.

Gombal

Also got the Focus heating knobs from China today, will see if i can make a How-To to fit them in a Fusion/Fiesta (if i can get it right myself ofcourse ;) )

Mikey923

Keep this as updated as possible please ! 

Thanks !

Gombal

Will do!

The trip to the scrapyard will be Friday (i hope), some things came up.

Want to make a nice airduct for the fresh air intake although the tape/sticker version also works like a charm. Had to drive nearly 200 miles yesterday, also a lot of city traffic. on the motorways and other roads were you can maintain a little speed the inlet temperature (measured after the turbo thus compressed and heated) stays the same as the outside temperature.

As soon as you are in traffic in the city the temperature rises. (Outside temperatures between 22 and 25 degrees Celsius, 72 to 77 Fahrenheit.) Inlet temp the same whilst driving, 40, 50 an d 60 mile an hour.

In the city it rose to 30 - 35 C, 86 to 95 F. One high peak to 51 C, 124F when standing in a long line of traffic and having to wait for the same trafficlight about ten times.

But in those city conditions also an intercooler won't make a difference, you need air flowing through the intercooler to let it cool the inlet air and standing still in the city, in the sun without any wind blowing before trafficlights won't make a difference with or without an intercooler.


Also tried to fit the Focus round heater knobs. Will be a pita cause although the shape of the axle is the same, the size isn't! The Focus knobs have smaller axles so the knobs won't fit the Fusion/Fiesta axles.

Heated the plastic star shaped axle of the blower regulator and then pushed the Focus knob on it. Worked, could get it about 5-6 mm on it. But that's enough, the Focus knobs don't stick out as far as the original Fusion knobs.

Then the next problem showed. The star shape has a flat spot on one side and ofcourse the flat side in the Fusion isn't on the same side as the Focus!

So position 3 and 4 are now 0 and 1. Only noticable by the little transparant nodge at the front of the knob.

Positions 0, 1 and 2 are before the numbering of the dial.

So now i will have to come up with a way to turn the knob about 90 degrees so it will line up correctly with the dial.

Took the regulator apart but that's not a good idea, there are 2 little springs in it with 2 little metal balls that take care of the positioning of the knob at the right position aka the numbers on the dial.

Don't take it apart, it will take some luck, fiddling and swearing to get the whole thing back together again like it should be!

 

To be continued.......

Gombal

First replaced my cabin filter, made a How-To in the Fusion section of the Ford Guides subforum.

 

Then i couldn't resist trying to get the heater knobs to fit.

As said, the blower knob fitted but was the wrong orientation. Took my Dremel and modified the housing and regulator a bit.

Now it is like it should be, still a fraction off but i can live with that. If it's in the car you will look at it from left above (LHD car) so then it will be spot on.

 

Next thing will be the cold/hot air knob. Thinking of filling the middle of the knob with 2-component glue, grease the metal shaft and put the thing back together and let it dry. I should than still be able to remove the knob (because of the grease) but have the right shape to operate the heating. Well, that;s the theory ^_^ . The only thing i don't know and can't test is if the Focus knob will survive the 2-component glue. I know it heats up but i also don't know if it will just dissolve the plastic of the knob. So a bit more thinking to be done.

Tomorrow i will look at the scrapyard at the thing that is behind the selection knob, should be a relatively simple thing to modify cause it also will have to be turned about 90 degrees but i don't know if that's possible without opening my dashboard so on the scrapyard will be easier to see it.

 

But it sure does look nice:

 

Again, to be continued.......

Gombal

Went to the scrapyard this morning. Wanted to see how the heating knobs of a Focus looked like behind the knobs.  Didn't help much, nothing i could use for the Fusion :( .

What i did see in some Fiesta's is that the selection knob will be easy to do, the only thing is the 90 degrees won't be easy to fix. Also the cold/heat knob will have to be a homemade solution, have to think about the best solution for that.

 

What i did find is a sunglasses box for in the roof. Comes from a Mondeo. Don't think that it will fit like this but i think when i remodel it and make it smaller it might fit between the roof and the lining. Will first measure it thorough before i cut a hole in my rooflining ;)

 

What i also found was an original air inlet, the same as i "remodeld" aka destroyed.

Also found a flat inlet from a Focus and an even better one from a Peugeot. Will see which one will fit the best, think the French one.

 

Forgot to look at the VIN of the cars where i took parts from. When i took things for my Benz i always noted the VIN so i would know what type it was if i wanted something like that again or other things from the same car.

 

O, and i refueled, 60,28 MPG, not a bad number :D (Have to say no motorways so don't think i can do much better than that)

 

Gombal

Also now what i need under the bonnet, 8V21-9A675-AH. Used in 1.4 TDCI Fiesta's from 2008 up, at least, that's what i can find in the parts catalog.

Gombal

Went back to the scrapyard yesterday to look more closely at the selction controls of the heating and ventilation.

Behind the selction knob is a big plastic cilindrical form, that's attached to a steel cable which in turn  goes somewhere right of the heating and ventilation unit.

Tried to pull it out and that worked. Looked in the parts catalog later and indeed, you can easily replace that cable. Where the cable connected you can hardly see because of the airduct that's blocking the view but i could see a white cog-wheel.

Could just reach it with my finger and tried to trun it but it fell out. If i can get to it more easily it's just a matter of removing the cog-wheel, put it back in but turned further 90 degrees and the selection knob would be spot on. I'm just a bit afraid what happens if i take the cog-wheel out if i can get it back in again. (Maybe an other trip to the scrapyard next week ;) )

If you look at the pics (circled in red) you know what i mean.

 

Then the only thing is how to attach the middle knob. Maybe take a regulator from a Focus, remove the axle and somehow let that slide over the steel axle of the Fusion's regulator. Plenty ideas but still not totally convinced i've already got the right one.

 

Sadly there was no intercooler to be found, at least not one i can use. Saw one from a VW but that won't fit without major rebuilding so no option for me. (Not that i can't do it, i just don't want to ;) )

Did see a motor cover from a Peugeot, 2.0 HDI, and tried to fit it on the 1.4 HDI at the scrapyard. If it would only take minor adjusments i would have taken it with me but sadly it won't fit without taking about half of it off and even then it would look like crap.

I have a bit of a dilemma, do i want an engine cover, just for the looks or don't i want it. Pro's are only the looks, cons are the turbo outlet and resonator box will become a bit hotter because the cover will trap the heat underneath it.

 

Also thinking about a cold air intake/sports intake so the air doesn't have to go all over the engine before entering the turbo. Not just a filter underneath the bonnet but in a housing with a cold air inlet. Just a sports filter underneath the bonnet will do more harm than good because of the warm air intake.

Should also help to keep the compressed air cooler. And that way i probably don't need an intercooler. Only if i'm gonna raise my boost (easily done by adjusting the arm on the pressure controls) i would need an intercooler than.

But even than i don't think i would need one, you only use the extra boost when accelerating and after that it would be just like stock. And because i drive with a light right foot i think i can get away without an intercooler.

If you're a racer and would use the extra boost almost all of the time you would definitely need an intercooler.

 

So, lot's to think about, lot's of things to do next week ;)

Gombal

One step closer to a Cat free car ^_^ .

Took a piece of the Mercedes exhaust i had still laying around, because of the flare at the end of the pipe it fitted perfectly to the little piece of the Peugeot's pipe.

Welded it together, i'm a self educated welder so the welds won't be eligible for the guinness book of records ;) .

Will see if i can make the total conversion this week, very curious if there is any noticable change in performance or engine smoothness.

Gombal

A little side track today.

My motto is that if you know how things look on the inside you can troubleshoot possible problems much easier.

Not only that, i'm also curious how things work and why they're constructed lke they are.

So, because i don't know how the inside of a resonatorbox in the high pressure side of the turbo looks i decided to open one up.

On the inside there is a insert with holes in the side, these give access to the actual extra rooms in the box.

The only resonance i can think of that will be in the inlet is the resonance of the cilinders sucking/letting air in all 4, one at a time.

And what the resonatorbox does is "store" a bit of pressure so the turbo won't get the pressure fluctuations so much.

That's also probably why the 1.6 TDCI doesn't have the box, it has a intercooler so the total content of compressed air is a lot more because of it. So any pressure fluctuations will be compensated by that.

And the reason they put this box in is it doesn't take a lot of room and still does the job. You could also put a T piece of piping in with a small bottle shaped piece on it and it will do the same but take up more room.

FiestaZS90150

wow lots going on, love the knobs =) i should of done that in y old fiesta =) keep up the great work =)

Gombal

Well, they're not in yet but it's just a matter of time ;)

Gombal

Yesterday i noticed a screw in my left rear tyre by accident. Wanted to go to KwikFit first (that's the only thing i go to KwikFit for, to get a plug in a tyre. That's about the only thing they don't screw up ;) ) but then i remembered i had something else, left over from a previous leaky tyre (on the Benz) which had a nail in it.

When i was young i had many flat's on my bike when i discoverd OKO. On my bike it Always worked like a charm, no matter what you would drive through, never a puncture again! You put the special fluid in the tyre, it's a liquid with fibres in it. Doesn't degrade the tyre and won't freeze. You can leave it in the entire life of the tyre and you will never have a puncture again. It can close holes up to 5 mm.

There's also a special version for tubeless tyres  etc.

So took the wheel of, got the screw out (tyre deflated quite rapidly) and took the innerworks of the air valve out. Put in 250 ml of OKO, reinflated the tyre, rotated it once and voila, leak sealed!

Because i took the wheel of i just as well could renew my brakefluid, i looked in the reservoir and it looked murky so i don't know when it was changed the last time. (got no maintenance history with the car)

How i did that the easy way is described in a How-To in the Fusion section ;)

 

Right rear fixed by KwikFit:

Left rear fixed by me and OKO:

Gombal

O, also noticed that the left rear bearing is making a soft grinding noise, just like the bearing is dry.

So will order new wheel bearings and have a go at those!

Gombal

Finally did my exhaust today. Took the cat with flex of. Before taking it of i took 4 sawblades and 4 Ty-raps and made sure the flex couldn't bend to much.

All bolts came out real easy except one! Of course this was the bolt you can reach the hardest at the bottom of the turbo.

The head came of so i let it be till i got the exhaust ready. Put 2 nuts on later and luckily it came out!

First i welded a piece of pipe to the piece i already made a few days ago. It was to short, luckily i still had enough right sized pipe from the Benz.

Then i clamped both exhaust on the workmate to see were i had to cut underneath the catalyst.

Put a Ty-rap around the pipe were i should cut it so i i would cut it real straight and exactly the right angle. Works better than a pencil ^_^ .

Cut it and then welded it to the catless pipe.

Now it was time to see if it would fit. Had to adjust a little by cutting almost through and then bend the pipe a little and weld it up again. Had to do it at 2 places to make sure the flange was positioned the right way to connect the rest of the exhaust.

Looked good so i made a bracket to connect it to one of the brackets of the catalyst.


After all looked good i bolted it all to the right torque. Will have to get 4 new bolts for the exhaust to the turbo connection so i put a good amount of copaslip on it to stop it seizing up.


Started it up and everything looked and sounded good and so far no leaks.


Because i could reacht it real easy now i rotated the nut on the boostcontrol arm 1 turn. Because of the Scangauge i will be able to see what extra boost this will get me.

Will go for a ride this evening, there's a weekly fair just in front of my driveway so can't go anywhere till about 19:00.

 

These are the remains of the work:

 

Inside the catalyst:

 

The two things you don't need in a diesel ;) :

Gombal

Just went for a ride, you smell the paint as the exhaust heats up but after a few miles that was gone.

It feels (can't prove it with data although i had the Scangauge and my tablet in the car.) like it revs a bit easier. What i do notice is when i take my foot of the gas when driving 60 miles an hour the inletpressure stays a bit higher longer then before. probably because there is no restriction in the exhaust anymore.

Before i adjusted the boostcontrol arm my max inletpressure was 214 KPA (2,14 bar or 31 PSI), now after the adjustment, 1 turn of the nut, the max inletpressure is 224 KPA (2,24 bar or 32,5 PSI). I saw no change in the inlet temperature so still no need for an intercooler.

 

Just feels like the car accelerates a bit easier, did know it wouldn't be a big change but now i know there are no more restrictions in the exhaust, the engine can breath out freely.

 

The next project will be the inlet, the most perfect option would be the airbox of a 2008 and up Fiesta, behind the left headlight and a straight tube to the turbo.

Sadly there is no way to get that airbox in a Fusion. You would have to move the battery to create the room but that's almost impossible.

There is a lot of roombetween the engine, radiator and the left headlight so i have to think about a way to get an airbox in that position.

Then the air should remain cooler, the way it has to travel now it gets heated by the inletpipe to the airfilterbox, the airfilterbox itself, the tube to the turbo and the resonatorbox and tube to the actual inletmanifold. All of them are above or very close to the cilinderhead and heat up automatically during driving.

The last 2 (4 actually, turbo, resonatorbox, tube to inlet manifold and the inlet manifold itself) things you can't do much about but everything before that could be in a lot cooler place instead off on top of the "stove".

Will be continued but it will take a while, have to think this through thoroughly. I know by now i don't want a sportsfilter.

The best options would be the 2008 and up Fiesta airbox or the airbox of a 1.6 TDCI. The latter is connected to a big cover for over the engine but that part would simply be cut of. The problem is that new that piece costs e few hundred euro's and there very scarce on the scrapyard.

The 1.6 TDCI airbox would probably fit between the engine, radiator and left headlight but i'm not sure of that.

Maybe there will come an even better solution if i just look around a bit more ;) .

Gombal

Nothing doen on the car or parts for it.

Did notice something strange now the cat is gone. Because of the Scangauge i can always see a bit more data then the 4 things displayed in the instrumentcluster.

Because i adjusted the boost control arm i wanted to see what the boost was after the adjustment. Already wrote that in the last reply but yesterday i noticed something strange.

When driving in first gear, just roling along the MAP is lower as before. Before the cat removal it was Always around 100 KPA (normal air pressure outside) or a bit higher, 100-103. When i gently step on the gas it used to drop 1 or 2 KPA and then rise because of the rising revs and exhaust gasflow.

Now it drops even further, i've seen as low 90 KPA. Just for a second and then it rises as it did normally.

Been thinking about that but i just can't seem to put my finger on it why it should be doing that.

 

With the cat gone the turbo should rev a bit easier because there is less restriction in gasflow in the exhaust. Theoretically there should be more boost sooner i think.

On the other hand, because the engine can breathe out more easily, could that mean it can also suck in more air because of that? That's what it seems like. That's also the only explanation i can think of why the MAP would drop beneath atmospheric pressure at very low revs. Usually that's the behavoir of normally aspirated engines.

Was thinking of bypassing the airfilter for a test but i'm not so fond of that but it would reveal if the airfilter is the bottle neck at this point. I think (but that's an assumption) that the engine would greatly benefit from a better, read less obstructive, air intake route.

Been busting my brains to think of a good, cold ram air intake with as short as possible route to the turbo.

The route isn't that difficult, it's the space needed for a good, non oiled, airfilter, that's the problem. I just want to get rid of the original heated airfilter box with all the restrictions in the route. As soon as i come up with an acceptable solution for the airfilter the engine breather hose is also getting a catchcan so no extra oil is going into to the intake route and engine.

FiestaZS90150
What's this scan gauge thing you have on the car?

Where do you get one and how does it plug into the car?
Gombal

The Scangauge II ( http://www.scangauge.net/ ) is a little device which you connect to the OBD2 connector in your car. It will read the ecu and give you data that normally only the dealer can see. You can also reset faultcodes so that's even better ;)

It isn't cheap though. I bought it 5 years ago but the price is still the same.

Would i buy it again, probably not, not because it doesn't do what it supposed to or that i don't like  it but then i probably would buy a Ultragauge ( http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/ ). Cheaper and you can display more data in one display. The Scangauge can only display 4 datapoints in the display, the Ultragauge 8.

 

If you want an even cheaper solution, a bluetooth OBD2 dongle, about 4-5 euro's from China including postage! You will need an Android Phone or tablet and you're good to go.

 

I have a 7 inch Samsung tablet, Torque software, a tablet holder for in the car and a bluetooth dongle. Torque can show you as many gauges as you want but it can also log your data and that's very convinient if you change things on your car. It saves the data in CSV files, you can then view them with a CSV file viewer or import and graph it for instance in Excel.

if you have internet connection while you drive it can upload data directly to a server and then you can see where you've been and see what the car did.

 

Some pics from the Scangauge II and my tablet in the car. Don't have the tablet in the car al the time but after i change something i take it on the next trip so i can see possible changes. I do have a OBD@ splitter so the Scangauge can remain connected all the time and the bluetooth dongle can be connected at wiil.

 

Scangauge fitted in the car, nicely underneath the middle console:

 

Location of the OBD2 connector, still a bit messy, i want to remove the connection and put it behind the cover so it will look a lot more neat:

 

Bluetooth OBD2 dongle in place, i remove it after i use it because it keeps drawing current if left connected. Scangauge doesn't, it goes to standby automatically:

 

Tablet in place, sorry for the bad pics, very sunny today. No data because the engine wasn't running:

 

Example of upoaded data to Torque website of one of my runs. You can see where you've been and all data you select:

FiestaZS90150

cool thanks for the explanation =)

 

so you get one of these... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Android-Torque-Car-Mini-ELM327-OBD2-OBDII-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Interface-CAN-BUS-/181124903208?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a2be2b128

 

are they all for the same car? I'm guessing the plug is the same for every brand?...?

 

And then you hook up to it by bluetooth using your adroid screen?

 

do you need an app on your android phone/tablette to have the information?

Gombal

I bought this one: http://www.ebay.nl/itm/190848767884#ht_2921wt_1398, it's even smaller and the location of the OBD2 connector is a bit odd. It points right at your legs and i thought i might hit it when it was to long. Doesnt happen by the way but smaller looks better when it is place  ;) . See that i didn't remember the price right but still cheap.

 

Yes, you just connect it via bluetooth to your Android device(telephone or tablet). Took a little fiddling but no more then 5 minutes. Because it's China stuff they didn't give the code to connect but in my case it was 1234, seen cases were it is 6789. Think Apple should work also but don't know if there is software for Apple.

 

The software is use is Torque Pro: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque (if you look on the internet it's a lot (read 100%) cheaper than in the play store :whistling: ) I think it's not cheap and if it was perfect i wouldn't mind paying that. If it was half of the price at this moment i would have bought it but i also wanted to try first to see of it works. If it's developed a bit further i'm just gonna support the maker and buy it.

Have tried different kinds of software but none of them is as good as Torque at this point.

FiestaZS90150
Thanks :) I checked the app site
On my phone and doesn't have the same app arhhhhhhh I hate apple lol.

Anyways will check into this after I gt back from vacation
Gombal

Drove to work today, is about 70 km ( about 44 miles) away. When i left there the outside temperature was about 30 degrees Celsius (86 F).

Had to drive through the city for a bit and when i accelerated the car suddenly stuttered at about 2500 rpm. I accelerated again and kept watch at the Scangauge to see the MAP. It rose to 210 and suddenly dropped to about 135 and at the same time the engine lost power. Engine was idling good but as soon as i tried to accelerate it did it again. Went on the motorway, got up to speeds and when driving 130 km/hr (80 miles an hour) the MAP stayed 213 when putting my foot down. Strange.

First thing i thought of was my powerbox, did it get to hot or something like that? I fixed it on top of the little black box behind the battery so it won't get wet but will get hot if the car is parked in the sun.

 

So when i came home i opened the bonnet and moved the powerbox. When i did that i saw the problem, the heat let the tape airintake sag in. It even sucked the side of the tube in!:

Not the powerbox (moved it back) but without air the engine doesn't like it either ;) .

 

Last time i was at the scrapyard i got an airintake from a Peugeot 306, about the same shape as my tape intake version.

So a bit of sawing and fitting and the inlet was ready again. Did tape it again but it can't sag in anymore!

Also cut a little bit of the plastic frame above the radiator so i know for sure the air is forced in a bit but i know for sure it's cold air coming in. If i would really want it forced in i need to connect a hose to the Original intake hose and route it to the bottom of the radiator so i can get it to get air from just behind the grill underneath the bumper. But firt want to try this, air should be a little cleaner up here, just above the road there is probably just a bit more dust.

Will have to drive 70 km again tomorrow and the forecast is that it will be the same temp. or even higher. Nice test ;) .

Gombal

Drove 140 kilometres today, very hot weather again. Car performed perfectly, had lots of "cold" air coming in. Also turned the screw 1 turn on the powerbox for a bit more oempf.

Didn't notice anything, just that the consumption shown on the scangauge was fluctuating again, after 140 km's it was already a lot more stable. Just as the last time. The ECU has to learn again so a 140 km drive was a good distance to do that.

 

Keep being surprised by the economy of the car, must say i drive between 80 and 100 km/hr and that's a really good speed to be very economical. If you drive faster, 120 km/hr the economy goes down really quick.

 

Also collected the 4 new bolts from the Ford dealer to mount the exhaust to the turbo. Want to cut the exhaust again to have the last bend turned about 5 to 10 degrees, at the moment my flexpipe is thouching a bolt on the tranny. Also the flexpipe is bend in a strange way so that's not how i want it.

But will wait for slightly cooler weather, way to hot now.

Gombal

Forgot a pic of the new bolts, two and a half euro per piece and they are as strong as gingerbread. To snap the head of the old one didn't require a lot of muscle. Could also be the almost 9 years of heating up and cooling down to get metal fatique or something like that of course ;)

Gombal

Little redesigning today, took of the cat replacement pipe cause it wasn't routed quite how i liked it, needed a little bend extra to relief the stress of the flexpipe.

Just cut a V shaped slot in it, let it stay connected about 10 mm and than pushed sides of the slot together and welded it again.

Was to lazy (it was hot and i was tired ;) ) to grind the weld down neatly, maybe an other time or when it needs to be replaced)

When i took of the exhaust i saw it had leaked at the bottom, just above the boost control arm nut. Strange cause originally there's no gasket there, luckily i had a gasket i ordered when i was still thinking of making the flange for the turbo myself. So when bolting the exhasut back i installed the gasket, fastened the bolts at the right torque (25 Nm) and i couldn't feel or smell any leaks at that flange.

 

I also ordered a original gasket for the other end of the gasket. Put it in but it was leaking at the front and the rear. Probably because i first had a "homemade" gasket in that didn't have the ears were the bolts went through. Probably the flange bent a bit when the bolts were thightened at that point. So removed the original gasket and put a new "homemade" gasket in. Then it didn't leak anymore!

 

Also put in the new bolts for the exhaust at the turbo connection. Forgot to take a pic of it :( .

 

And a pic of the protection for the flexpipe before the added bend. You can see were the bolt touched it after only driving a few days with it.

Gombal

Since i removed the cat there is a strange phenomena happening.

When driving slow, less then 45 miles an hour, and having the windows open only a little there's a strange smell filling the car.

First i thought it was the zincspraypaint but it keeps happening, even after driving 280 km's.

Then i thought i had a leak in the exhaust or at one of the flanges but everything is completely airtight. (the little leakage at the turbo isn't  feelable or smellable so that can't be it. And also after the addition of the gasket between the exhaust and the turbo you get the smell)

 

There are 2 remaining options:

1) The end of the exhaust ends just before the rear bumper. When driving slowly there will be a lot of turbulence there and not all the exhaust fumes will be blown away but the cavities underneath the car/bumper will fill with the gases and thus the smell. Because the windows are open just a bit there is a slight vacuum in the car and the gases/smell will come into the car because of any holes of slits in the underside of the car.

Remains strange that before the cat removal we didn't have this problem.

When the windows are closed you smell nothing, blower off or on, doesn't matter and with the windows completely down there's also nothing you can smell so i really don't know where to look for the problem.

 

2) See one but because of the cat removal the exhaust gases contain a lot more NOx so will smell stronger. It's not rotten eggs but a strange smell, it doesn't really stink but it's also not pleasant to sit in for a while.

 

 

Don't know if anybody else had something like this but i just can;t pinpoint the exact thing i have to change to get rid of it. Pity that i can't just put the cat back in, that would give some answers as to the fact if it's the exhaust fumes smelling different/more or something else.

 

O, i replaced the pollenfilter last week, it's also a carbon filter so any strange smells shpuld be captured by the filter. But when we smell it it's not coming out of any vents in the dashboard, that's what i suspected the first time but the air coming from the vents is very fresh so can't be my heat exchanger which has mold or something.

 

Curious if anyone has any other suggestions?

 

O, the smell is like a petrol exhaust but lighter.

Gombal

Did just a little today, made a DTM style tailpipe for the exhaust, a well, that's what i call it ;) . Isn't the prettiest but if it works i will be very happy!

It's the first attempt to get rid of the smell  i described earlier. With this tailpipe the exhaust gases will come out behind the bumper instead of in/underneath the bumper.

I hope it will work, i can't test it at the moment because i can't get of the driveway because of the weekly fair in the street. Hope to test it this evening or else tomorrow.

Welded it to the original tailpipe so i'm sure no gases will escape before the real end of the exhaust.

Before:

 

After:

 

Also removed the rear mudflaps, did remove them last week but i thought they caused the smell to come in because the airflow behind the backwheels changes when they are removed. But also with the mudflaps on it the smell comes in the cabin so removed them again.

The reason i removed them is that i don't like the sight of it, the front ones are ok but with front and rear on them i think the car looks like an old man's car, with the rear ones removed it looks a little sportier. But that's my humble opinion ;) .

Gombal

Eureka!

 

Just drove a few miles, looks like the exhaust mod worked. No more strange smell in the car, ran from 0 to 45 miles an hour for a while with the windows slightly open and the air stayed fresh.

 

Now i want to make a nice one, this one looks like the hunchback of the Notre Dame. I might have to cut a little out of the bumper but we'll see if i can make a nice looking one that also works good.

 

Makes you wonder, before the cat removal i didn't smell anything but nothing changed but the exhaust. Meaning that although you didn't smell it, exhaust fumes were entering the car without you knowing it. Not very healthy and i don't think very safe to.

I know my Benz had 2 dedicated holes in the sides of the trunk with springloaded flaps. Especially to let air escape out of the car but don't let air in other than through the designated vents in front.

I know that with the Ford air is coming out of the holes where you place the jack, felt it blowing when laying underneath the car. So there will be holes or slitts underneath the trunk letting air (thus exhaust fumes too) in too, otherwise you wouldn't smell the fumes.

Said it before but the build quality in comparison to the Benz is almost terrible, the feel, the way things are constructed and assembled on the Ford (even though the Benz is 27 years old) is no match. Even the plastic things on the Benz don't break after 27 years of service, with the ford i already have several plugs were the locking simply broke off just touching it. Also paint quality, on the Ford the paint is so thin, in comparison the Benz paint is much sturdier and chip resistant. Of course the Benz paint wasn't waterbased in that time.

 

Enough whining, overall the Ford is a nice car and i have a lot of fun driving and modifying it. It's no comparison cause the Mercedes W124 was the best Benz made ever in terms of driving and build quality. After that the quality dropped dramatically.

 

Think i will be going to the scrapyard next week, i just want a good cold air intake, keeps bugging me and i want it to be right.

Also found an old vacuumcleaner hose, If i can't find anything good next week i'll make an extra cold air intake from underneath the bumper behind the grill to the air intake.

Also thinking of putting a heatshield beneath the airfilter box and around the U turn pipe connected directly to the airfilterbox. That should also help keeping a little heat out of the fresh air. But only if i can't find a suiting replacement airfilterbox.

 

Also thinking of putting in extra sound isolation but that will take a while, i think they should have put in more (or better) isolation behind the dashboard. The engine is very noticable when accelerating and i would like that to be a lot less. When on speed it's quiet enough although the tires make a lot of noise. And i think you can also hear the left rear bearing so when i change that there should also be less noise when driving.

Maybe a full matt underneath the hood will also help.

 

Also wonder why Ford didn't put a cover underneath the enginecompartment, would protect the engine, reduce noise and increase milage because of the better airflow. Read the new Fiesta's have them but they will probably don't fit the Fusion.

FiestaZS90150

nice to hear it solved the problem =)

Gombal

Yes, that's true but i still it's strange that it's possible to suck in exhaust fumes. If i didn't remove the cat you would have never know that you're breathing exhaust fumes because the cat was masking the smell.

I think it's a very serious design flaw. Can't be healthy to breath in exhaust fumes, even if you don't smell them, they're still there.

And i know, it's only when driving under 45 mph with the windows slightly open but it's ridiculous that that won't be possible on a modern car. If it was China made i wouldn't be surprised but from a Ford i expect something else.

If it continues to be nice weather i will investigate it further next week, let the motor run, blower on max and than lie under the car and see if i can locate any holes, slits, cracks or whatever under the trunk that will blow air. If it can come out it also can go in! Maybe with some soapy water to make it visible.

 

If i can find anything and i can reach it than i'm gonna put body kit on it to seal any opening that can be sealed without causing moisture to stay in. Don't want an airtight car that will rust 3 times faster ;)

Gombal

Got my two blank spare keys made. One's without remote control, the other with.

Few weeks back i already programmed the remote control one so i could start with it (removable key bit). Have a chinese VCM clone and i don't know hoe i did it but it worked ;) .

With two working keys it's easy to program the other one, first key in, 3 seconds on contact, second key in (within 10 seconds), also 3 seconds on contact, unprogrammed key in, 3 seconds on contact and it's programmed.

 

Nice to know i have a working spare key now (and a key for my wife).

 

Ordered them online, ordered an extra key bit because i first wanted to make the key bits myself, the round Ford keys are super simple to make, small file and some patience.

I did actually manage to copy my key myself, not as neat as the keymaker did but it starts the car. It doesn't open the car door however.

Probably because i filed away a bit to much and the ignitionlock has been used a lot more and will be worn more.

 

But was nice to try and see that it worked ;)

Gombal

Was thinking yesterday, everytime i take the car and drive i notice that the fuel consumption is a bit (0,5-1,0 lpk on the Scangauge) higher while the engine hasn't reached it's working temperature. i can test and compare that very easily cause were about a kilometre away from a 12 km long 60 mph way. So everytime i get on that i swith on the cruiscontrol (it has 3 memories so the speed will be the same everytime i select the 60 mph button) i notice that.

 

With these outside temperatures and summer that's not a problem but i wonder what it will be like in winter when it's freezing.

 

So i looked at the fuel preheater but i can not find any info on that as to temperatures. (Already post this question in the Fiesta forum, could have done it in the Fusion forum but the Fiesta forum has more visitors and also has this engine)

Also don't know if the ecu does anything with the fueltemperature.

 

Then i remembered the preheater which is on my Benz. It's al mechanical, has a thermostat and regulates the fuel temperature all year round so it will be at least 25 degrees Celsius.

One advantage of this is that the injectors will have a better spray pattern because the diesel is less viscous at 25 degrees as opposed to -5 degrees.

 

Have to look at it but the perfect spot for the Benz preheater would be to disconnect the EGR cooler and use that coolant stream to heat the diesel. Don't know how much and which temp the coolant is there (hot side or the cooled side, will have to follow the hoses) but even if it is just 50 degrees it would be sufficient.

The beauty of this system is that it can be used all year round, it will stabilize the fuel temperature so it will be at least 25 degrees all year round. (off course when it's 30 degrees outside the diesel will also be 30 degrees ;) )

 

 

An other thing to think of is the inlet air flow, in summer you want it as cold as possible. In winter though i guess that will work against you. So i'm thinking of making an extra airduct, connect it to the heatshield of the turbo (like in the old days when the cars needed warm air to keep the carburator from freezing)

What i need to let that regulate it automatically is a heat activated inletflap from an old carburator car. Will have a look on the scrapyard next week to see if there still around. Otherwise a hand activated one will do.

 

This will have, in my opinion, the following benefits in winter. Engine will be at working temperature sooner and because of that my fuel consumption will be lower sooner.

Just theoretical but the only way to know will be to make it and test it in winter.

As i can see most sensors on the Scangauge and my tablet i can see if it works or not.

Sadly the only sensor i can't see is the fueltemperature sensor. I would really like to see that, especially in winter. in the Benz i did put an aftermarket outside temperature gauge on the fuelline, that will be the next best thing to the original sensor.

Gombal

Haven't been to the scrapyard yet, to hot and to busy ^_^ .

 

Did a little thing in the car this morning though. Despite of the "DTM style" exhaust tailpipe the smell was still noticable sometimes.

So took the angle grinder and cut off half of the extra tailpipe. Then took the last piece of bend i had laying around and made an downwards facing pipe. The same as the original but now it extends behind the bumper instead of under/in the bumper.

 

With the "DTM style" tailpipe and a cold engine you could see the smoke in the rearview mirror when accelerating, only in second and third and in the first kilometer. After that you couldn't see any smoke/soot.

 

When i looked at the finished pipe i noticed it has a strange bend in it, maybe when i have nothing else to do i will make a nice straight pipe but for now it will suffice.

Took it for a spin and now i really didn't smell anything anymore! Hope it stays that way, was beginning ti think to put the cat back because when cruising with my wife she doesn't like it when you smell the exhaust inside the car (don't like it myself either but it's only diesel........... :P ).



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