Picked up a focus 1.6 lx 01 reg, I noticed its burning oil, about 2litres a month, is this likely to be something I can get fixed or have I bought a car that's ready for scrap?
Hello and welcome to the forum!
A long time ago i used to run £100 bangers (some would say i still run a banger- but its more expensive than that!)
If the oil consumption was high it could become expensive- the way i got round that is to use the cheapest oil i could find (even if its 20-40) i was in "poundstrecher" the other day and they had a 5-litre tub for £6 (as far as i remember)
you are using 2 liters a month - thats £2. 40 of cheap glug or £22 of Castrol magnatec (2X1L bottles at £11 each - its more cost - effective buying 4 or 5 litre tubs) it adds up
Expensive oil may be another way to go,(or a different viscocity) because it may reduce the oil consumption, and expensive oil may burn cleaner (and smell nicer!) especially useful around MOT time
(the expensive oil may form a better seal between the bores/ pistons/ rings)
Keep an eye on the dipstick and try to keep it off the lowest level - overfilling it is bad as well, it may use more oil if it it is high so perhaps between 1/2 and the lowest, or fill it up to the top of the level and refill it when it gets to the bottom if the rate of oil loss is high
The other thing you can do is fit an oil catchtank between the engine crankase breather and the breather on the air intake - any oil lost here will be "cought" in the catchtank, this can be poured back into the engine - it also prevents it being injested by the engine air intake - which can help the car pass its MOT
A blocked PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve or blocked crankcase breather/s can sometimes increase cranckase pressure, thus increasing oil consumption, worth checking
Unfortunately the bottom line is the bores, pistons/ rings or valve guides may be worn, some of these things cost ££££££s to fix, an engine transplant (a new, secondhand engine) may be the most cost-effective (cheaper than rebuilding the existing engine) the above suggestions can help to keep the car going a bit longer
Finally, check the sump to see if you have a leak
Thanks for that, the cars not worth spending a lot on, I will look at the catch tank, the user manual says 5w30 oil can I use thicker oil or would that do more damage?
I honestly don't know, i believe it depends on ambient & engine temprature,(years ago, you would have different oils for summer than for winter) - some oil (any oil) is better than no or low oil, and old oil loses its protection over time, so "new" 20w40 probably offers better protection than "old" 5w30 that has been in the car for 1000s/ too many miles
(so you must put it in perspective)
The 20-40 may be more difficult for the oil pump to draw/ circulate, but may be ok in the summer and is preferable to drawing air (very low oil) or completely worn-out oil - also remember that if you are adding 20w40, the oil is being partly renewed and would be a partial mixture of 20w40 and the 5w30 already in the engine, however regular oil may not mix well with semi-synthetic or synthetec oil
it depends what you plan to do, but if you just want to keep the car going for a few more months without spending money then some "compromises" may be nessesary
It might cost £30+ for a nice polished "proper" crancase breather catchtank (normally fitted to race cars, cosworths etc ) but a coke can would do -
the cheapest oil catch tank with fittings i could find on ebay -
i found this (about oil) -
There is an oil expert on the forum who may be able to answer if you can mix the oils, and the effect if you do