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fordmondeogirl

Hi,

 

My partner and I have just bought a 2004 Mondeo 2l TDCI hatchback and there is a fault.

 

2 problems 

 

Lesser problem being that when the car is sitting idling every now and again the engine will judder as if it going to cut out.

 

The more serious problem is that when the car is in 5th or 6th gear over 60mph and you give it some throttle the coil light will flash and you lose your revs & throttle altogether.  As the car slows you also lose your power steering and have to bring your car to a halt on the hard shoulder to reset your ignition.

 

We have an idea what the fault might be but I'd like a second opinion - can anyone help?

 

Many thanks.

jeebowhite

Sounds like you need to replace coil pack and HT leads for the latter issue, the former issue is probably an idle control valve issue, or MAF sensor. Both can be removed and cleaned and would be a good place to start

 

oh and welcome to the forums :)

mintalkin

coil pack and leads may be hard to find on a TDCI :)  i would get any fault codes read as it could be anything playing up from a cam/crank sensor, injector, to the fuel filter, any codes stored will point you in the right direction,a common cause of cutting out is the cam sensor, check to see if its a black one as ford had problems with them and did a replacement which was coloured grey.

jeebowhite

lol... thanks mintalkin, my error!

fordmondeogirl

Thanks for your replies!

 

The trader we bought it from is putting brand new injectors on it for us on Monday - then on Tuesday we are having it serviced by our long term and well trusted mechanic.  I will keep you up to date with our progress.  Lovely car in all other aspects - really enjoying driving it.

 

Does anyone know also if there is an AUX input?  My stereo says AUX but I can't find a jack socket to plug my mp3 player in and CDs are way too much hassle.

FOCA

If you look in the glovebox you may find the connector for the aux input  (i know - cds are so much hassle! :lol: )

 

The 2nd symptoms you are having is the car going into "limp home mode" this is where the ECU detects a problem and puts the car into a restricted mode so you can "limp home" - it tells you this is happening by flashing the glow plug light ("coil" shaped orange light)- this does not mean it has anything to do with the glow plugs, it may not have anything to do with the injectors, either -garages/ mechanics often blame injectors for almost everything- which may not be the case - limp home mode can be caused by many things including a faulty EGR valve (you should get it blanked), or a faulty sensor, or for many reasons

 

I take it you got the codes read?-  what fault codes came up?

 

Is it a TDCI 130 with a vnt (variable nozzle turbo) and a pnumatic turbo actuator with a front mounted EGR? (pictures (of the engine) would help)  

fordmondeogirl

I will hunt down the aux input tomorrow.

 

The injectors have been changed today to brand new ford parts and the car is already running so much better.  It is going to my own trusted mechanic for a full service and once over tomorrow.  It badly needs an oil change and we think it's always had cheap supermarket diesel in it.

 

The car has been super accelerated on the motorway (within the speed limit) and did not cut out once - no flashing error codes and the engine sounding much happier.  

 

It is a 2l TDCI 130 but that's all I know - I'm such a typical woman.Also the alloys are a complete mess!  

 

What's recommended - refurbs or replacements?  

 

Pics of the car and engine tomorrow when I've taken it for a bath haha :-)

FOCA

 

The injectors have been changed today to brand new ford parts and the car is already running so much better.  It is going to my own trusted mechanic for a full service and once over tomorrow.  .

 

.  

 

.Also the alloys are a complete mess!  

 

What's recommended - refurbs or replacements?  

Just as a matter of intrest how much is this costing in total?

 

I was going to get my alloys (early Ford - the lightest they made) professionally shot-blasted and powder coated (Fords paint does not last but that will)

 

Trouble was they wanted £250 to do this - i could (just about) get a discounted set of new alloys  or a nice set of alloys with tyres secondhand on ebay for that kind of money  

 

If you get a second set of wheels you can put snow/ winter tyres on them and use them for the winter - bonus is you wont mind so much if you bounce them off a kerb,  pothole etc

 

I hear a lot of nonsense about supermarket fuel online   

 

The Delphi injectors (all mk3 TDCIs 2000-2007) don't "like" modern low- sulphor fuel (produced after 2007)- the sulphor helped to lubricate the injectors/ etc - the sulphor was removed for ecological/ emissions reasons and replaced with a small amount (5-7%) of bio-diesel (veg oil)  whether its the cheapest supermarket stuff or the most expensive "premium" brand - the car/ injectors were never even designed for it!

 

in 2006/ 7,(or therabouts) Ford even released a statement saying their diesels could not run on more than 5% bio-diesel - modern pump fuel has upto 7% :lol:

fordmondeogirl

It has cost me a grand total of naff all for the injectors because I pulled the trader up on the car not being fit for purpose so he actually replaced them for free.

 

I found my aux input in the glove box - thanks! :-)

 

It's had a full service today and my own mechanic has confirmed that my new injectors are indeed brand new and working well.

 

So it's just my alloys which I will sort as it's just a cosmetic issue - it looks like someone has been kerbing it regularly on the passenger side.

 

So basically it doesn't matter which station I use to fill it up?  How often should I put something like redex in?

 

Thanks again for all your advice :-)

stooge75

how does he know theyre brand new?just outta curiousity

and if they are,dont EVER put redex in it,or forte etc,UNLESS it needs it for mot etc.

I was a fan of forte until last week when I got a £800 bill for new injectors. Diesel specialist said we shouldnt ever add any conditioner/cleaner unless it really needs it. He's been at it for over 35yrs so would trust him without question

fordmondeogirl

well how am I supposed to know that?  I'm not a mechanic.  They still have the sticker codes intact I guess. Whether or not they are brand new is irrelevant really anyway - they are working - that's all I need to know,  I will not put treatments in then - thanks for the warning.

stooge75
👍👍👍
Jos7000

As for the wheels, as you are in Lancashire, a friend of mine does wheel refurbs in and around the Preston area if that is any help?

 

Personally, I fitted a set of Jaguar alloys to mine, which required a full set of different wheel nuts as the mounting holes have squared seats and fords are tapered, Mitsibishi ones work fine :D

fordmondeogirl

Preston is within travelling distance for the right price - what are we talking per wheel?  Mine are a disgrace.  

 

Engine wise car is running sweet now - a fuel pump valve has also been changed and I have had no problems since. Yay! 

Jos7000

I've dropped him a message, as soon as I know, I'll let you know :-)

fordmondeogirl

Much appreciated thanks  :)

Jos7000

Right then, just got off the phone, the prices are as follows...

Upto 18" £150 per set of four

19" and above is £175

If you want chrome effect add £10 per wheel.

 

All work includes repair and powder coating.

 

If you only want half the set done, split the price, lol

 

Generally speaking depending where you are the price would usually include removal and refitting and obviously collection :-D

However he says if you are outside of his typical area, he would arrange a deal on the price with you directly.

 

I hope this helps, if you want his details let me know. :-)

fordmondeogirl

Thanks for doing that for us!  I will discuss it with my fella and get back to you - many thanks  :)

Jos7000

No problem :-)

fordmondeogirl

Sorry I didn't get back to your fella about the alloys Jos.  

 

This car is giving me a worse headache since then and I'm sincerely ready to drive it into the nearby canal.  

 

Upon starting the engine I have no throttle!  The time it kicks in varies from 15 seconds to 15 minutes!!  I got yelled down at a busy petrol station yesterday for not moving when my engine was idling!  Other than this fault the car runs great.  I am totally skint at the moment!  Does anyone have any ideas as to what may cause this?

jeebowhite

when you say you have no throttle, you mean you can put your accelerator to the floor and the car proceeds to idle?

 

If you try to drive the car on idle (gradually bring up the clutch) does the car remain to idle and does the accelerator behave itself?

fordmondeogirl

when you say you have no throttle, you mean you can put your accelerator to the floor and the car proceeds to idle?
 
If you try to drive the car on idle (gradually bring up the clutch) does the car remain to idle and does the accelerator behave itself?

fordmondeogirl
Yeah I have the yellow engine light on and if I floor my throttle no response until it kicks in and yellow light goes off.

You can sometimes raise the clutch slowly in first or reverse & that seems to do the trick but it doesn't work all the time :-(
jeebowhite

Ideally we need trouble codes to help, do you have a code reader? or can you do the trip computer trick?

fordmondeogirl
Tell me the trick and I'll give it a bash. I'm currently stuck in nursery car park until the damn thing decides I can have my accelerator. I'm ready to cry :-(
jeebowhite

not much fun!

 

If you have the trip computer, turn the ignition to 0, press and hold the reset button until further notice. Turn the key to electrics only, if it works, the dashboard will do crazy stuff, the LCD screen will blink a few times and go into diagnostic mode. You can then let go, and press the trip reset button once each time to cycle to the next menu, if it works, you should find a DTC menu followed by some numbers if there are any error codes.

 

I cant remember, but I know someone managed to get into the trip computer, but I cant remember if it was a retrofit from a Focus, or just a standard computer in the mondy.

FOCA

Sorry I didn't get back to your fella about the alloys Jos.  

 

This car is giving me a worse headache since then and I'm sincerely ready to drive it into the nearby canal.  

 

Upon starting the engine I have no throttle!  The time it kicks in varies from 15 seconds to 15 minutes!!  I got yelled down at a busy petrol station yesterday for not moving when my engine was idling!  Other than this fault the car runs great.  I am totally skint at the moment!  Does anyone have any ideas as to what may cause this?

The throttle pedal is not connected directly to the engine like on an earlier (older) car, but is a potentiometer a bit like the mouse on a computer- you put your foot down, and you are only asking the ECU (engine control unit/ computer aka pcm (powtrain control module)) then, the ecu decides if the engine should get more fuel (accelerate) if the car has a fault, it may decide not to, (it has sensors on the engine, that monitor all types of things) this is to protect the engine from damage again, "limp" mode (limp home mode) is exactly that, if the ecu senses a problem that could potentially damage the engine, it runs it at a reduced level, to reduce damage to the engine but you can still "limp home" - once you have fixed whatever is wrong the throttle should respond as normal - it is also possible that you just have a faulty sensor  

 

As James has suggested, if you could find out if you have fault codes, it will help you find out what is wrong, rather than spending money you may not need to

fordmondeogirl

Thanks guys for trying to help me but I'm calling it a day.

 

I managed to get it home after an hour stuck in a small car park with my toddler in the car.

 

First I had injector problems, then a blow out now this.  I've decided it's cursed.

 

It's going on Ebay at the weekend.

 

Should anyone on here fancy taking it off my hands give me a private message.  I'm in Leigh Lancashire.

 

It's a 5 door 2004 Ford Mondeo 2l tdci 130bhp hatchback.  

stooge75

did you find out what code/s its throwing up?

fordmondeogirl
No I'm sorry. I will have a look if I get time but after yesterday I was too fuming with it to bother. I just kicked it instead. £1695 down the drain hurts :-(
Jos7000

I have a fault reader, if you wish and haven't sold it yet, I don't mind the short drive over there to have a look at it for you.

And the offer has no bearing on your wheels, lol.

It doesn't sound like 'Limp mode' because you could still drive it, albeit below 50.

 

Just let me know if you want a hand, Mondys are generally great cars and I have no problem giving assistance when and where I can. :-)

stooge75
I know how you feel. I certainly wouldnt touch another 1. Ive got mines running nearly 100% the way it should,& still getting rid of it. Biggest headaches on rd. ask ANY car dealer why they dont like buying/selling em & every1 will say its just not worth the hassle. They always tend to return with fairly high monetery repairs ie injectors,pump etc.
Next cars' definitely gonna be one built in germany(bmw/audi,&def not a golf)!.
Feel for you,as the stress can be unbearable
Jos7000

I've had this one for 5 years, my previous one for 4 years and my next will be another one.

Best car for the money in it's class.

stooge75
Ah well. Glad some folk like em. Sell u mines cheap.brand new box/injectors
Outta curiosity how many miles have you done in yours in the past 6 months
Jos7000

Not many, but it's approaching 200,000 and I'm not scared to use it. :-)

 

The problem with any car is, if its owner doesn't look after it, it'll likely become unreliable.

 

I don't mean it's your fault, more likely the previous owner.

stooge75

Not many, but it's approaching 200,000 and I'm not scared to use it. :-)
 
The problem with any car is, if its owner doesn't look after it, it'll likely become unreliable.
 
I don't mean it's your fault, more likely the previous owner.

There's a lot in that one,i'll give you that;)
Jos7000

I rarely buy low mileage cars, with or without service history.
Cars that have been pilotted up and down motorways with higher miles have usually had less stresses than their low mileage counterparts. I once bought a car with 249,000 miles on it, that one lasted me 4 years too, lol.

 

I've never understood the mentality that we should buy a car that hasn't been used for the things it was designed for. These things are built to cruise at speed and a lot more comfortably than their German cousins and with a much less wallet pounding price, lol.

 

You know Mondeos of this age all have timing chains, not belts. Reasonable maintenance and they are good for many more miles than mine.

FOCA

I've had this one for 5 years, my previous one for 4 years and my next will be another one.

Best car for the money in it's class.

Agreed, ive owned BMWs VWs etc - ive kept the Mondeo the longest

 

The Mondeo TDDI is a lot tougher/ more reliable than the TDCI, the Delphi injectors were never designed for modern, low sulphor diesel

 

There are Mondeo TDDIs with 330k+ and still running - brilliant car, fast, economical for the power, reliable, practical, good handling, etc - it will be difficult to replace - probably with a mk4 2.2 or a BMW 330D, but there is probably a few years left in it yet and im not even finished with the modifications  



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