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182_blue
The incorrect use or the use of aggresive clay could introduce some serious marring (marks) to the paint, be carefull and use a fine clay
thesilverfox
[quote name='182_blue' date='23 April 2010 - 01:37 PM' timestamp='1272025674' post='78973']
The incorrect use or the use of aggresive clay could introduce some serious marring (marks) to the paint, be carefull and use a fine clay
[/quote]

It's hard to get it wrong with clay imo - keep your clay and surface lubricated and you're set. I'd sooner use that, than Fairy - which is very strong.
182_blue
[quote name='thesilverfox' date='23 April 2010 - 02:40 PM' timestamp='1272033014' post='78986']
It's hard to get it wrong with clay imo - keep your clay and surface lubricated and you're set. I'd sooner use that, than Fairy - which is very strong.
[/quote]

I actually disagree, i have seen many a car done with aggresive clay by inexperienced users and they have caused very heavy marring to the car that required machine polishing to correct, but what do i know LOL
thesilverfox
[quote name='182_blue' date='23 April 2010 - 03:50 PM' timestamp='1272033659' post='78987']
I actually disagree, i have seen many a car done with aggresive clay by inexperienced users and they have caused very heavy marring to the car that required machine polishing to correct, but what do i know LOL
[/quote]

Anecdotal evidence works for me :) But my experience is otherwise very good. I don't deny that people cock it up (the same goes for machine/DA polishing which I also find very easy), but if you don't do the research, you'll burn your fingers.

For example, changing discs and pads on a car - I bet loads of people here could do it and would tell me it's easy. But would I try it without reading/asking the right questions, looking at guides and videos first? Not on your life.

Would I machine polish or clay a car, without understanding the principles first? No.

This thread alone contains a wealth of knowledge, inclusive of clay bar techniques, tar removal, polishing and cleaning, and the best ways to complete these activities. If you are inexperienced in using clay and damage your paintwork, more homework was required and let it be a lesson learned to try harder in future.

But this is my opinion only - what do I know? :lol:
Gazjs
[quote name='thesilverfox' date='23 April 2010 - 01:05 PM' timestamp='1272023708' post='78969']
Clay removes wax and is far safer than Fairy ... !
[/quote]
The question stated it was for a detail this weekend, not everyone can/will have clay to hand. I don't see the harm in using fairy as a one off, its certainly not going to ruin his paint/finish .... everyone has there own ways though :lol:
thesilverfox
[quote name='Gazjs' date='23 April 2010 - 05:27 PM' timestamp='1272039446' post='79001']
The question stated it was for a detail this weekend, not everyone can/will have clay to hand. I don't see the harm in using fairy as a one off, its certainly not going to ruin his paint/finish .... everyone has there own ways though :lol:
[/quote]

Yeah, I know what you're saying :) It's just that there are better ways. Granted, stock to hand is a factor (of course!), but there are shampoos that will take wax off as well intentionally. Not sure I would expect your local Halfords to stock them though.

That said, I tend to only plan a detail when I know I can do it properly and prepare with the right gear. It's almost not worth bothering with if you don't do a task properly in my own personal opinion (the threads I've seen elsewhere, involving polishing on top of un-clayed and gritty paintwork for example - pointless and a waste of time!).

Fairy/washing-up liquid can contain salts (sodium), which speed up the oxidation of paintwork, which is never good, as paintwork can become brittle and will potentially chip easier. As for surfactants, generally not good for the car at all :) Sure, a one-off application isn't going to accelerate this process overnight, but I wouldn't feel comfortable doing it even once.
DanGull
I'm staying out of the wax stripping debate - I agree with everyone, different methods, but all effective :lol:

However - soft wax waxes are for me best applied by hand, the heat in your hands helps soften the wax further and PH is a joy to apply this way. Blue Velvet on first by applicator if you want to use both at the same time - 4 hours cure is better than nothing. Top it with PH.
sanmisra
Thanks for the replies. I do have clay-sonus green, will that do the job?

Also, how many coats of wax of both blue velvet and purple haze do you recommend, is one for each ok, topped up with red mist every other week? Or should I apply two of each? Sorry if they're stupid questions. Appreciate the advice guys.
DanGull
The more the better really. If it were me, it would be one of BV and two of PH.

Actually, I will get involved in the stripping wax debate - stripping wax with clay seems to me to be a hugely laborious task. My recipe for stripping back is a strong APC solution (around 4:1 usually) in the foam lance. Does the job beautifully.
182_blue
[quote name='sanmisra' date='23 April 2010 - 08:50 PM' timestamp='1272055210' post='79039']
Thanks for the replies. I do have clay-sonus green, will that do the job?

Also, how many coats of wax of both blue velvet and purple haze do you recommend, is one for each ok, topped up with red mist every other week? Or should I apply two of each? Sorry if they're stupid questions. Appreciate the advice guys.
[/quote]

sonus green is nice and mild and shouldn't cause marring as long as your carefull, also don't worry about stripping wax off a good wash then paint cleaner of some type will be fine, ps clay really should not be used to strip wax, it's just now what it's for
sanmisra
Hmm, don't have a pressure washer or foam lance :unsure:.

So, If I were to strip the wax, I would need to either clay or wash with a strong shampoo (born to be mild won't be effective would it?) and then lime prime (or lime prime lite)?
Seems like I might need to get a pressure washer and a foam lance otherwise.
DanGull
If you don't want to go out and get lots of new kit - then 182's suggestion is a good one, use a paint cleanser or cleaner wax. If you already have Dodo Lime Prime - then that'll do, however I do recommend the Serious Performance paint cleanser - top stuff.

I prefer to get the car back to bare bones early in the wash process - hence using the lance with APC. As has been said, I wouldn't strip wax with clay, I don't class it as a bonded contaminent.
182_blue
[quote name='sanmisra' date='23 April 2010 - 09:03 PM' timestamp='1272056026' post='79046']
Hmm, don't have a pressure washer or foam lance :unsure:.

So, If I were to strip the wax, I would need to either clay or wash with a strong shampoo (born to be mild won't be effective would it?) and then lime prime (or lime prime lite)?
Seems like I might need to get a pressure washer and a foam lance otherwise.
[/quote]
I have not read all the thread as I'm on iPhone so forgive me, but if I was you I would wash the car using your normal car wash, I would then clay the car , claying will prepare the surface for the wax/ glaze etc, it also leaves the paint feeling beautifully smooth :-), after this use the lime prime, then apply the wax as you wish , the car will look amazing I'm sure

Dont get me wrong, my wash, cleanse wax regime is quite heavy duty and I probably do far more than is ever needed or noticed, hence I try and help people by giving them an easy/ cheaper route to a good finish If that's what I feel they are wanting , I have been around detaling for many years and must have 6 polishing machines LOL (Including Flex, Metabo, Udm, Festool, even the old Porter cable)
sanmisra
[quote name='DanGull' date='23 April 2010 - 09:07 PM' timestamp='1272056253' post='79047']
If you don't want to go out and get lots of new kit - then 182's suggestion is a good one, use a paint cleanser or cleaner wax. If you already have Dodo Lime Prime - then that'll do, however I do recommend the Serious Performance paint cleanser - top stuff.

I prefer to get the car back to bare bones early in the wash process - hence using the lance with APC. As has been said, I wouldn't strip wax with clay, I don't class it as a bonded contaminent.
[/quote]

Alternatively- would it be effective if I used the APC with a pressure sprayer instead of pressure washer?

If not I think I'll just wash the car and use lime prime lite/ SP cleanser as 182 suggested. I just wanted to get the info straight so when it comes to removing it, I'm not stuck. Thanks!
Gazjs
[quote name='sanmisra' date='23 April 2010 - 11:04 PM' timestamp='1272059654' post='79059']
Alternatively- would it be effective if I used the APC with a pressure sprayer instead of pressure washer?

If not I think I'll just wash the car and use lime prime lite/ SP cleanser as 182 suggested. I just wanted to get the info straight so when it comes to removing it, I'm not stuck. Thanks!
[/quote]
Put some APC in your wash bucket :D
sanmisra
Ooh, can I do that? What dilution do you recommend? Shall I add with the shampoo or APC by itself? Thanks.
Gazjs
[quote name='sanmisra' date='23 April 2010 - 11:30 PM' timestamp='1272061231' post='79062']
Ooh, can I do that? What dilution do you recommend? Shall I add with the shampoo or APC by itself? Thanks.
[/quote]

20:1 should be effective, i would also add in shampoo.
Did not realise you mentioned pressure sprayer though,i would go for this. Think i went about 20:1 also with this spraying on and then rinsing off followed up by a wash,clay, paint cleaner :)
thesilverfox
[quote name='DanGull' date='23 April 2010 - 09:53 PM' timestamp='1272055407' post='79040']
The more the better really. If it were me, it would be one of BV and two of PH.

Actually, I will get involved in the stripping wax debate - stripping wax with clay seems to me to be a hugely laborious task. My recipe for stripping back is a strong APC solution (around 4:1 usually) in the foam lance. Does the job beautifully.
[/quote]
Yep clay is a long method. I mentioned too that certain shampoos are more efficient at the task. But for me, if I am stripping wax, then the likelihood is that I'm going to polish too, so clay will strip and also remove fallout and tar, which APC is not exactly ideal for (fallout removal that is). Polishing on top of only stripped paintwork wouldn't be particularly ideal for my needs. But everyone indeed has their own preferred ways of getting the job done and we will never all agree on everything (thank the gods else it'd be a dull world!).
182_blue
Dont get to hung up on stripping the wax, i doubt theres much on it anyway, the lime prime will sort it, enjoy the process
thesilverfox
[quote name='182_blue' date='24 April 2010 - 07:21 AM' timestamp='1272089484' post='79093']
Dont get to hung up on stripping the wax, i doubt theres much on it anyway, the lime prime will sort it, enjoy the process
[/quote]
Lol don't worry I won't! I just seem to collect a lot of motorway fallout on my car as I'm up and down the country every weekend. It's only a problem on the leading edges of the car but is surprising how bad it can get elsewhere too.
Michael P
OH HERRO!


Here's one for you. Is all my cleaning stuff suitable for a fibre glass car??

We think it's coloured fibre glass and not painted. Any help?!
aph1101
What's this for, the MX-5??
Michael P
Nooo, my mate's got a kit car :)
Jason Tierney
Ive got one for you guys too, I bought some AG Aqua Wax(among a few other bits n bats for cleaning) today- will it work fine putting it on a dry car that was cleaned yesterday(I know its not going to be 100% perfect but will help a bit?)

I bought some Bilbery for the wheels(but forgot about the chem resistant bottles- can someone point me the right way? Oh also It says on I4D to wash off with a pressure washer- would it be ok just to hose it down?

I bought 2 Sonus Drying Towel's as well. Got big tub of AG Shampoo and got some AG tar remover as well.


So, My Cleaning list is as follows now(Also In the order I would use them? correct me if im wrong)

1 2010 Frozen White(unless it rains) Fiesta Zetec S Ti-VCT
2 buckets(no guards though)
A hose (no pressure washer but not too bad)
AG Tar Remover
AG Shampoo/Conditioner
AG Super resin polish
AG Aqua wax
AG HD wax
AG Glass polish/cleaner( Dont remember proper name- not fast glass though)
Megs Washmitt
Megs micro fiber
I have various other Microfibers that came with AG stuff
2 drying towels
Bilbery wheel cleaner
few sponges(dont use em, could be used for wheels?)


Crikey - Thats rather alot and im nothing of a detailer =|

Thanks

Jay
aph1101
[quote name='Jason Tierney' date='27 April 2010 - 07:09 PM' timestamp='1272391145' post='79650']
Ive got one for you guys too, I bought some AG Aqua Wax(among a few other bits n bats for cleaning) today- will it work fine putting it on a dry car that was cleaned yesterday(I know its not going to be 100% perfect but will help a bit?)

I bought some Bilbery for the wheels(but forgot about the chem resistant bottles- can someone point me the right way? Oh also It says on I4D to wash off with a pressure washer- would it be ok just to hose it down?

Thanks

Jay
[/quote]

If I were you, I would give it a quick 2BM wash before you put on the AG aqua wax, just to get rid of any dust or other bits and bobs.

For the bilberry,

[url="http://i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Handi_hold_detailing_bottle_1.html#aSB947HH"]Bottle[/url]

[url="http://i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Chemical_Resistant_Spray_Head_1.html#aSH320CR9"]Chemical resistant sprayer[/url]

I used to hose it down fine for about 2 or 3 months, with no obvious ill effects, before my dad got a pressure washer. I just made sure I rinsed it very thoroughly.

I hope that helps :) You'll find you accumulate a worringly large amount of stuff without really realising it :D
Jason Tierney
Thanks, I think il just save the car for a full wash on the weekend before the FOC meet :)

Is that AG aqua wax any good?

After cleaning the car yesterday theres still tiny red/orange dots that cant even be "nailed" off ( Probs a bad Idea to try picking them off with my nails but yano) I dont even know what they are, on the front id assume dead bug juices but on the sides too??

Thanks

EDIT- I have empty spray bottles from other alloy wheel cleaners- could they be used for the bilberry?
parv1
[quote name='Gazjs' date='16 April 2010 - 05:41 PM' timestamp='1271439080' post='78075']
Hi Mate,

The simple wash stage should be carried out as needed or through a routine. [b]Once a week[/b] is perfect for this.
Get yourself 3 buckets. One for Wash, Rinse, Wheels. As with instructions on bottle add in correct amount of [b]"Dodo Juice [/b][b]'Born to be Mild' Shampoo 250ml"[/b] to 2 of the buckets (Wash and Wheels). Now using [b]"Meguiar's Super Thick -[/b][b]Microfibre Wash Mitt"[/b] soak in the rinse bucket (this should be 1/4 full of fresh water) and then dunk into the wash bucket. This one dunk should cover a panel turning the wash mitt mid way through. Now rinse in the rinse bucket before again placing in the wash bucket. (This will keep all grit and dirt in the rinse bucket and away from the wash bucket). On completion dry the car with [b]"I4D Uber Blue Drying Towel 24" x 36""[/b] or [b]"Autoglym Synthetic Chamios"[/b].

Now you can use the [b]"Autoglym Super Resin Polish -(SRP)"[/b]. Every [b]couple of months[/b] would be good for this. Put a small blob about the size of a 5p piece onto a "I4D Yellow Foam Wax Pad Twin- Wax Application pads" and rub in a forward and back motion on the panel. This blob should last a panel. Once fully worked in buff off with [b]"Asda Microfibre Cloths"[/b](A better microfibre than this would be much better)Once the whole car has been completed follow the same process with [b]"Autoglym HD Wax"[/b]taking a few rubs of the wax for each panel. Before buffing off however leave a good 10-20 minutes. In the winter months i would use [b]"Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection"[/b]instead as it is more of a sealant and will give more protection against salt etc.

Whenever you see the need to touch up the finish you can use [b]"Duragloss #951 Aquawax"[/b]. A few squirts onto a panel and work in with a microfibre (Do this while the panels are wet, it will also dry the car). Then with another microfibre buff to a finish panel by panel.

Hope this is of use and makes sense :lol:

I really recommend getting a decent set of microfibre cloths however :)
[/quote]



Hi Gazjs

Just a quick update, i'v acquired a tub of FKP1000p. Can you recommend when I use this. Can I fit this in with the
products I am using already or would it be a replacement of one.
Is this a winter or summer month product?
I'll be washing my car again this weekend and want it all nice and shiny shiny B)
Gazjs
[quote name='parv1' date='27 April 2010 - 10:32 PM' timestamp='1272403323' post='79682']
Hi Gazjs

Just a quick update, i'v acquired a tub of FKP1000p. Can you recommend when I use this. Can I fit this in with the
products I am using already or would it be a replacement of one.
Is this a winter or summer month product?
I'll be washing my car again this weekend and want it all nice and shiny shiny B)
[/quote]

Fk1000p is sealant like the AG EGP. Although much much better. I have never used this myself. The person to ask is DanGull about this product ;)
parv1
[quote name='Gazjs' date='27 April 2010 - 10:13 PM' timestamp='1272405830' post='79698']
Fk1000p is sealant like the AG EGP. Although much much better. I have never used this myself. The person to ask is DanGull about this product ;)
[/quote]


DanGull

The floor is yours :D

Gazjs; I am surprised to hear that its better than EGP. In my head, i thought AG products all complimented each other.

Putting EGP on top of SRP was the bees knees, but obviously I'm still naive in these matters :) What makes it better,
if you dont mind explaining.
greenymk7
FK can be put on in the winter and the summer and can go on the wheels and paintwork.

Normally put on after the paint cleanse or wash after clay stage.

Put on like wax, takes 2o mins to cure before you can put another layer on, ideally you would like 2/3 layers and this will last well through the summer.

If you are finding the tub hard spray some quick detailer in their and give it a swirl round with your applicator to make it into more of a paste
sussex
I wash the car with dodo juice sour power and dry it then use dodo juice wax blue velevet i think it is.

used to use SRP and EGP.

After waxing should i put anything else on to protect/ increase shine?
greenymk7
you should leave it a full 24 hours and then maybe put some quickly detailer on.

dodo red mist or all the others that are around, im using chemical guys at the moments and its very decent
thesilverfox
One for those that are using the Kestral DA6/equivalent 6" Velcro backed polishing tool - what pads are you using? The Autoglym cutting/polishing pads I have are okay, but they're not particularly durable.

Any suggestions? I've seen a few that appear to have three-stages, but would prefer some anecdotal evidence before buying some more.

Ta in advance.
sussex
OK So dodo juice red mist has good reviews.

I waxed my car with blue velvet a week ago, i washed car, dried it and put 2 coats of wax on. i washed it yesterday.

in your opinion if i buy red mist should i wash it, wax it again then add red mist or just wash it and then red mist?

Also I read you should leave the car for a while after waxing before using red mist?
greenymk7
wash and quick detail until you want to add wax again so say about 3/4 months

Don't put red mist on until at least 24 hours after your last wax coat.
aph1101
Well, it has just stopped raining here, so I decided to go out and take a couple of beading shots :D I am particularaly impressed with the beading considering it was last washed two weekends ago and has covered over 350 miles since.
The LSP is two layers of hard candy, finished with red mist.
Enjoy:

[IMG]http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu243/aph1101/IMG_4019.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu243/aph1101/IMG_4020.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu243/aph1101/IMG_4021.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu243/aph1101/IMG_4022.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu243/aph1101/IMG_4023.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu243/aph1101/IMG_4024.jpg[/IMG]
DanGull
[quote name='parv1' date='27 April 2010 - 11:22 PM' timestamp='1272406349' post='79703']
DanGull

The floor is yours :D

Gazjs; I am surprised to hear that its better than EGP. In my head, i thought AG products all complimented each other.

Putting EGP on top of SRP was the bees knees, but obviously I'm still naive in these matters :) What makes it better,
if you dont mind explaining.
[/quote]

Better is such a strong word :lol:

FK definitely has better longevity than EGP and as a wheel sealant it's much better (EGP always dries funny on my wheels). However - EGP definitely creates more shine and is a much better base for other products.

My cars is currently wearing EGP with Purple Haze over the top, plus FK1000P on the wheels. I like this combo, and it's a doddle to apply.
Jack_P
For the first time i got the new car under a bright security light tonight. Its swirl city out there on that fiesta :(

Time to break out....the rotor....brrrrrrrrrrrmmmmmmmmmmm
Michael P
Alex, you're a show off.
sussex
Dan or anyone else who wishes to reply!

I currently OWN:-

Dodo Juice sour power shampoo
Autoglym SRP
Autoglym EGP
Dodo juice blue velvet soft wax
Builberry wheel cleaner
Dodo juice (red mist?) Ordered, should be here on Wednesday
Various cloths/pads etc

I got my ZS (black) 2 weeks ago, I washed it and gave it 2 coats of dodo juice blue velvet, and then a week later one wash and dry.

I am off work later this week, just wondered if you could give me some advice on which of my products to use and in what order. I dont mind/have the time to spend on the car so I dont mind how long it takes!
DanGull
First up - blue velvet is a hard wax, purple haze is the corresponding soft wax from Dodo...

I would say wheel wash with Bilberry, two bucket wash with Sour Power and mitts, dry with mf towel, SRP, EGP or BV (it's getting to be summer, so wax all the way, both of those is overkill in my opinion) top with a coat of red mist after the bv is fully cured.

That's a pretty good routine, the only thing missing as far as I'm concerned is a good clean on the arches/tyres (I use Megs APC and Degreaser, careful not to get either of these on the wax layer) and a good snow foam to loosen the muck. :)
sussex
Thanks Dan! B)

My mistake on the dodo juice wax, its Purple Haze I have! Also what is "BV" ?
DanGull
Blue Velvet...

If you have Purple Haze - stick both EGP and Purple Haze on (in that order) nice combo - as I say, it's on mine at present :)
sussex
Dan, sorry to be dumb!

A coat of SRP then EGP or Purple Haze? then after red mist?

sorry dan i replied before you edited your post!
DanGull
I don't see any dumbness - I've been on Detailing World too long, most products over there are abbreviated, I forget that people don't know the products as well here :)

Yes, SRP - EGP - Purple Haze - WAIT 24 hours - Red Mist
Michael P
A question for you, Dan.

When i go to the car was before work tonight, do i select the 2 wash or the 7 wash??
Gazjs
:lol:
titanium_s_spec
[quote name='Michael P' date='01 May 2010 - 01:15 PM' timestamp='1272715512' post='80219']
A question for you, Dan.

When i go to the car was before work tonight, do i select the 2 wash or the 7 wash??
[/quote]
2 is better no brush to be uswd ist jet wash pmsl
DanGull
[quote name='Michael P' date='01 May 2010 - 01:15 PM' timestamp='1272715512' post='80219']
A question for you, Dan.

When i go to the car was before work tonight, do i select the 2 wash or the 7 wash??
[/quote]

Go the whole hog, use the 7 wash, and scrub the paint off entirely. It can't possibly look any worse...
Michael P
Cheers, i knew you'd be clued up :)




I'ma joshin!!!

Hopefully the weather stays at it is now (rather pleasant) so i'll be able to clean it when i get home from work today :)


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