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fiesta_lad
Hi all next week iam getting a oil and fliter change on my fiesta 1.3i petrol 51 reg the guy at the garage has ask me do i want a engine flush while doing the oil and fliter so iam just wondering is this worth it and will it do the car any good. cheers alan.
Daveyraveygravy
[quote name='fiesta_lad' post='44069' date='Sep 23 2009, 05:36 PM']Hi all next week iam getting a oil and fliter change on my fiesta 1.3i petrol 51 reg the guy at the garage has ask me do i want a engine flush while doing the oil and fliter so iam just wondering is this worth it and will it do the car any good. cheers alan.[/quote]

If i'm not mistaken, the engine in a 1.3 Fiesta of that vintage is the ancient 'endura' engine, not the more modern 1.25. Personally I would go for the flush so long as it wasn't too much extra money. I tend to flush prior to an oil change, but I just go to Halfrauds and buy the cheapest oil in there, drain out the old oil and put the cheap stuff in and run it for a couple of days then drain (and change the oil filter) and put new (decent) stuff in.
fiesta_lad
[quote name='Daveyraveygravy' post='44155' date='Sep 24 2009, 10:25 AM']If i'm not mistaken, the engine in a 1.3 Fiesta of that vintage is the ancient 'endura' engine, not the more modern 1.25. Personally I would go for the flush so long as it wasn't too much extra money. I tend to flush prior to an oil change, but I just go to Halfrauds and buy the cheapest oil in there, drain out the old oil and put the cheap stuff in and run it for a couple of days then drain (and change the oil filter) and put new (decent) stuff in.[/quote]

Hi it is the old endure e engine the tappy one lol but mines not :lol: the engine flush is only a extra 10 so i will give it a go see what happens.
nutty
Engine oil flushes can cause more problems than cures.....

Modern oils tend not to carbonise like they used to in the old days i.e you dont get a build up of the black crusty carbon accross the top of the rocker gear.. so if you've used a decent oil or a semi synthetic oil you dont need to spend the extra 10 for the garage upsell to inrease the profitabillity of an oil & filter change.

On the other hand... if you have an engine that has run on cheap oil & carbon has built up in the engine, flushing it will cause the cabon to break up & move it around the engine... this will not all come out of the sump when the plug is removed. This means that you now have a risk of carbon deposits being pumped around & potentially blocking oil pick-ups & oil gallery's.. Anyone old enough will remember the CVH engines, 20 minutes after flushing; the oil lights came on & you were removing the sump to unblock the pick up filters.

Also flushing agents tend to remove carbon build up from around piston rings, if you have a high mileage vehicle with a bit of wear on pistons, rings & bores ect the removal of this carbon could result in engines smoking through burning oil as the carbon was actually assising the oil scraper rings.

Whilst on the subject of additives... dont be taken in on fuel additives, you can pay upto 20 for fuel additives that will do nothing to improve your car. Again since the intro of unleaded fuel & fuel injection systems we dont suffer from carbon build up in combustion chambers or around the valves. The detergents in these fuel additives are the same as you are putting in the tank every time you fuel your car, the petrol manufacturer is already giving you all the cleaning agents you need.

Finally, I defy anyone to find a published document from Ford that recommends the use of engine or fuel additives... be aware that if you use such products while your car is within warranty & fuel or oil samples are requested any such products are considered as contamination & may result in claims being rejected...

Regards Mark
DONFRAMAC
This car is '51 reg, and is clearly the ROCAM unit which relies on 9 hydraulic capsules, all prone to grit problems. (the 9th one provides the thrust to the timing chain tensioner.) I would strongly reccommend the use of a good flushing agent e.g. "FORTE" brand. That was used by my Rover dealer at every annual service, as all K-series and the 2.0 Rover TD engines were hydraulic-tappet units, as was the Range-Rover/Buick derived V8.
You can avoid regular flushing by doing 6-monthly oil & filter changes, and you WILL notice an improvement in your engine's quietness/smoothness.
( at '51 reg you should be thinking of doing your auxilliary belt/tensioner renewal, and maybe water pump/thermostat/antifreeze/brake fluid. If the cam chain is still quiet, the 100,000 mile renewal advice should hold good.)
fiesta_lad
[quote name='nutty' date='31 January 2010 - 07:47 PM' timestamp='1264966657' post='62715']
Engine oil flushes can cause more problems than cures.....

Modern oils tend not to carbonise like they used to in the old days i.e you dont get a build up of the black crusty carbon accross the top of the rocker gear.. so if you've used a decent oil or a semi synthetic oil you dont need to spend the extra 10 for the garage upsell to inrease the profitabillity of an oil & filter change.

On the other hand... if you have an engine that has run on cheap oil & carbon has built up in the engine, flushing it will cause the cabon to break up & move it around the engine... this will not all come out of the sump when the plug is removed. This means that you now have a risk of carbon deposits being pumped around & potentially blocking oil pick-ups & oil gallery's.. Anyone old enough will remember the CVH engines, 20 minutes after flushing; the oil lights came on & you were removing the sump to unblock the pick up filters.

Also flushing agents tend to remove carbon build up from around piston rings, if you have a high mileage vehicle with a bit of wear on pistons, rings & bores ect the removal of this carbon could result in engines smoking through burning oil as the carbon was actually assising the oil scraper rings.

Whilst on the subject of additives... dont be taken in on fuel additives, you can pay upto 20 for fuel additives that will do nothing to improve your car. Again since the intro of unleaded fuel & fuel injection systems we dont suffer from carbon build up in combustion chambers or around the valves. The detergents in these fuel additives are the same as you are putting in the tank every time you fuel your car, the petrol manufacturer is already giving you all the cleaning agents you need.

Finally, I defy anyone to find a published document from Ford that recommends the use of engine or fuel additives... be aware that if you use such products while your car is within warranty & fuel or oil samples are requested any such products are considered as contamination & may result in claims being rejected...

Regards Mark
[/quote]

Did'nt get a engine flush back in september after reading various reviews it was not worth it the oil that gets used in my car is semi synthetic every week or so i check my oil and i hardly don't top up which is a good thing :D
Purdy fpv
Hi

As your Fiesta has a endure e engine you are better off getting the tappets adjusted regularly.
My last Fiesta had a endure e engine and I used to have that tappets done every six moths. The car purred like a kitten. No rattles at all.
fiesta_lad
Hi ive only had the tappets done once that was august 2008 or somewere around then its fairly quiet now but my girlfriend knows when iam comeing down the road. :lol:
Purdy fpv
[quote name='fiesta_lad' date='01 February 2010 - 09:33 PM' timestamp='1265059426' post='62915']
Hi ive only had the tappets done once that was august 2008 or somewere around then its fairly quiet now but my girlfriend knows when iam comeing down the road. :lol:
[/quote]
According to the ford service schedule they should be done every year. So Ford will adjust them as part of the service package at no extra cost.

However non Ford deals do not do tappets as part of a service and charge extra. Adjusting tappets is a dieing art as the next generation of mechanics are not being taught how to do them.

However It is an easy thing to do and if you can find a trust worthy mechanic and get them adjusted every year. That engine will last forever. The body shell would fall away first!
fiesta_lad
Had the the tappets done last time for i think 20 car was alot quiet after tho
Purdy fpv
[quote name='fiesta_lad' date='01 February 2010 - 11:23 PM' timestamp='1265066000' post='62934']
Had the the tappets done last time for i think 20 car was alot quiet after tho
[/quote]
20 is a Good price for that. Worth every penny.
artscot79
[quote name='Purdy fpv' date='05 February 2010 - 10:23 PM' timestamp='1265408028' post='63671']
20 is a Good price for that. Worth every penny.
[/quote]


if the oil he drains is bad then yes flush if not then dont flushing can cause all sorts of problems including blocking pick up tubes the only time we flush is when its a head gasket job
chris bowman
worked for a motor factor in cornwall many years ago and was sent to an stp presentation which was very confusing. the basic message over an hour or so was that the benefits of oil additives could be very beneficial however if u use the wrong addidtives u could damage ure engine to destruction!!??!! how confusing is that!!!
fiesta_lad
Sounds confuseing lol the only additives i use it what i put in the petrol tank then through in a full tank of petrol its called lucas.
chris bowman
i would suggest using quality oil and changing it on time so there is no need to use additives or engine flush to clear out crap!
fiesta_lad
I normally get oil and fliter changes done twice a year one in summer one in winter need to start doing me own but i can't seem to locate oil fliter :lol:
chris bowman
its worth paying local garage to do it cos not only will they get rid of the old oil, they also get the filter for u. if ure not happy with the oil they stock u can buy ure own and they will adjust the price for u. if u change ure oil every 6 months u may well never have to top it up. i only have to top mine up about half a litre over a year (10k) if that. sounds like a good idea
fiesta_lad
Iam the same i bought a bottle of oil about 2 years ago and ive still got it has i hardly don't top up well come to think of it i check my oil every week or so and don't need to top up ive owned the car for nearly 2 years and only topped the oil up once sign of a good engine.
chris bowman
had a mkii 1.8 verona before this car. put magnatex in every year and put 25k on a year never burnt any oil between oil changes!!! scrappedv it last year with lambda, cat emission problems with 160k on the clock after 4 years
corbz9
[quote name='Daveyraveygravy' date='24 September 2009 - 09:25 AM' timestamp='1253783726' post='44155']
If i'm not mistaken, the engine in a 1.3 Fiesta of that vintage is the ancient 'endura' engine, not the more modern 1.25. Personally I would go for the flush so long as it wasn't too much extra money. I tend to flush prior to an oil change, but I just go to Halfrauds and buy the cheapest oil in there, drain out the old oil and put the cheap stuff in and run it for a couple of days then drain (and change the oil filter) and put new (decent) stuff in.
[/quote]
Hi why put somemore oil in there is no need just put the engine flush in with the oil thats currently in then take it for a decent run to get the flusher in the engine pref on the moterway then it should be ready to drain and put the new new oil in there is no need to mess about getting a cheap oil before hand.
GlennStowe
[quote name='fiesta_lad' timestamp='1253723185' post='44069']
Hi all next week iam getting a oil and fliter change on my fiesta 1.3i petrol 51 reg the guy at the garage has ask me do i want a engine flush while doing the oil and fliter so iam just wondering is this worth it and will it do the car any good. cheers alan.
[/quote]

Not only is it not necessary, it may damage your engine. Here are advisories sent out to mechanics by the major auto manufacturers listing a bunch of things they try to sell you at a lube shop as unnecessary and possibly dangerous, including engine flushing. Interesting read..

http://media.nbcbayarea.com/documents/Honda+Nissan+GM+Ford+Documents.pdf


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