September 26, 2009, 4:28 am
I have looked at the other problems and tried all the possible solutions, but my problem seems to be unique. All my doors lock manually and via central locking, except the rear passenger door. I have tried fuse 63, turned the key in the ignition 4 times, etc etc, but it still won't budge. I have had the door skin off, and the cable linking the black "lock" button is really stiff, no movement at all. I can't even push the button in with brute force. Have tried WD40 in the lock and around the workings of the lock, all to no avail. As my car is now basically unlocked, I am worried as for the security of it. When the central locking is on, I can still open the rear door without the alarm going off (W reg 1.8 TDC1 Ghia model). I would even settle for the door to be continuously locked, but I can't even do this, apart from welding it!!! Any suggestions greatly received. Thanks a lot.
September 26, 2009, 4:00 pm
you probably need a new locking mech, more likely the motor, maybe check with multi meter to see if there is any voltage coming to the locking mech when locking and unlocking, if there is then the motor is faulty
September 29, 2009, 5:11 am
[quote name='havoc' post='44470' date='Sep 26 2009, 10:10 PM']you probably need a new locking mech, more likely the motor, maybe check with multi meter to see if there is any voltage coming to the locking mech when locking and unlocking, if there is then the motor is faulty[/quote]
Will try that, but is there any way of locking the door in the meantime?????
October 6, 2009, 6:25 am
[quote name='quoman123' post='44829' date='Sep 29 2009, 11:21 AM']Will try that, but is there any way of locking the door in the meantime?????
Park up close to a wall. The door solenoid is probably defective.
October 6, 2009, 6:52 am
As stated it will be the locking mechanism thats seized. If WD40 isnt releasing it nothing will. A new rear locking mechanism costs around £140+ VAT from Ford so not cheap but can be found in wreckers yards for around £30. I'd suggest not locking it cos my friend if it seizes when its locked you'll have mega problems getting it open again to change the mechanism. You wont even be able to get the door card off to gain access without destroying it.
October 11, 2009, 12:50 pm
Try to provide 12V directly to the motor - just disconnect it from the central pillar and connect from there, I think it's pins 1 and 2 BUT DO CONFIRM BEFOREHAND PLEASE as am not sure of this!!! You may want to put say a 4A or 5A fuse in there as well to protect the motor just in case it's still good.
If it doesn't work, then it's the motor itself, if it does, you probably have a short somewhere before the door. I had this problem and after some tries, the motor disengaged and it's working now.
October 12, 2009, 3:25 am
I'm having problems with my central locking also, i noticed you mentiond turning the key in the ignition 4 times, what exactly does that do?
October 12, 2009, 7:52 am
[quote name='FocusOnTour' post='45999' date='Oct 12 2009, 09:35 AM']I'm having problems with my central locking also, i noticed you mentiond turning the key in the ignition 4 times, what exactly does that do?[/quote]
It puts the central locking module in learning mode so you can input new keyfob codes. If you do it you must put all keyfobs you own in again, even the ones it already knows as it simply overwrites the codes list rather than updating it. Good if you lose a keyfob, you can delete it by adding a new one.
October 14, 2009, 8:14 am
So I'm guessing that this wont help if just one door isn't opening.
Looks like I'm going to have to get my hands dirty.
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