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tjxkeith
Hi I have just bought this 2004 1.8 tdci 149k miles

There is no heat from heater one heater hose warm the other cold. So thought Air lock or blocked Matrix. The temperature gauge needle gauge gets to midway in the normal running temperature. The service history for the cars shows the thermostat being replace twice in the last 3 years on the first occasion it states because of a leak. the second time 2 months ago the housing was replaced as well and the system flushed.

Disconnected the heater hoses and flushed in both directions and get a good flow rate and water is clear no sign of sludge.

Refilled the system as described in TIS by disconnecting the heater hose to rear of engine adding water to heater hose until water flows from engine end of heater hose, reconnect top u header tank and then I should run it at high rpm for 2 fan cycles. I am unable to achieve this believe due to the very cold weather.

Any ideas, there is no sign of any any heat at all.
artscot79
[quote name='tjxkeith' post='58322' date='Jan 5 2010, 10:22 PM']Hi I have just bought this 2004 1.8 tdci 149k miles

There is no heat from heater one heater hose warm the other cold. So thought Air lock or blocked Matrix. The temperature gauge needle gauge gets to midway in the normal running temperature. The service history for the cars shows the thermostat being replace twice in the last 3 years on the first occasion it states because of a leak. the second time 2 months ago the housing was replaced as well and the system flushed.

Disconnected the heater hoses and flushed in both directions and get a good flow rate and water is clear no sign of sludge.

Refilled the system as described in TIS by disconnecting the heater hose to rear of engine adding water to heater hose until water flows from engine end of heater hose, reconnect top u header tank and then I should run it at high rpm for 2 fan cycles. I am unable to achieve this believe due to the very cold weather.

Any ideas, there is no sign of any any heat at all.[/quote]
get the car running up to a reasonable temp and feel the hose coming from the thermostat and the bottom rad hose both should be warm also check the rad and see if the waters getting through it should be warm obviously sounds like a thermostat problem however it could be as simple as the seal on the pressure caps gone so theres no pressure in the system cheap fix replace the pressure cap only a few quid and do the above checks and post back the results if none of these work ide suggest a pressure test the housing may have been fitted wrong
Jonny87
I'm sorry but I can't help you, if you do a search of the forum you may find somebody has posted the same problem and there is a solution there also.

Welcome to the club also :):):):):):):):):):):):):):)
DanGull
[quote name='Jonny87' post='58340' date='Jan 5 2010, 10:51 PM']I'm sorry but I can't help you, if you do a search of the forum you may find somebody has posted the same problem and there is a solution there also.

Welcome to the club also :):):):):):):):):):):):):):)[/quote]

Well done Jonny <pats on head>

No need to be tongue in cheek however... :P ;)
tjxkeith
[quote name='artscot79' post='58338' date='Jan 5 2010, 10:50 PM']get the car running up to a reasonable temp and feel the hose coming from the thermostat and the bottom rad hose both should be warm also check the rad and see if the waters getting through it should be warm obviously sounds like a thermostat problem however it could be as simple as the seal on the pressure caps gone so theres no pressure in the system cheap fix replace the pressure cap only a few quid and do the above checks and post back the results if none of these work ide suggest a pressure test the housing may have been fitted wrong[/quote]


Thanks for that. Just to update, as stated before return hose cold and due to adverse weather conditions unable to get Temperate high enough for activation or radiator fan for 2 cycles as detailed in TIS procedure for draining flushing and refilling of coolant system.

Wife drove the car 15 miles and had a little heat from heater. this went cold when she stopped at traffic lights ( engine idle rpm) heat did not return. As soon as she got home I checked hoses again return cold .On releasing expansion tank cap system was found to be pressurized, but not as high as I would have expected.

Engine ran at 3000rpm and after a few minutes we have heat and return pipe warm also. 3000 rpm maintained for a further 10 minutes while heater selector knob turn from hot to cold and back to hot several times and heat output varied correctly.

Engine rpm to idle still have heat but not quite as hot, back to 3000rpm heat increases.

Next Day wife goes to work and has heat from heater. My conclusion is system was air locked and due to outside air temperature being in the region of minus 5 degrees could not generate enough heat and therefore pressure to remove airlock. It will be interesting to see if heat output improves when the weather improves

I spoke to the Ford dealer about this as I have receipt in the service history where last owner has had thermostat replaced by an independent dealer and is shown as a special order thermostat and quotes the part number which the Ford dealer confirms is for a Ford thermostat. I mention this as the Ford dealer says the only trouble they had with a focus was when the thermostat was replaced with a non Ford item that was too long and caused a restriction to flow.
artscot79
[quote name='tjxkeith' post='58853' date='Jan 7 2010, 11:30 PM']Thanks for that. Just to update, as stated before return hose cold and due to adverse weather conditions unable to get Temperate high enough for activation or radiator fan for 2 cycles as detailed in TIS procedure for draining flushing and refilling of coolant system.

Wife drove the car 15 miles and had a little heat from heater. this went cold when she stopped at traffic lights ( engine idle rpm) heat did not return. As soon as she got home I checked hoses again return cold .On releasing expansion tank cap system was found to be pressurized, but not as high as I would have expected.

Engine ran at 3000rpm and after a few minutes we have heat and return pipe warm also. 3000 rpm maintained for a further 10 minutes while heater selector knob turn from hot to cold and back to hot several times and heat output varied correctly.

Engine rpm to idle still have heat but not quite as hot, back to 3000rpm heat increases.

Next Day wife goes to work and has heat from heater. My conclusion is system was air locked and due to outside air temperature being in the region of minus 5 degrees could not generate enough heat and therefore pressure to remove airlock. It will be interesting to see if heat output improves when the weather improves

I spoke to the Ford dealer about this as I have receipt in the service history where last owner has had thermostat replaced by an independent dealer and is shown as a special order thermostat and quotes the part number which the Ford dealer confirms is for a Ford thermostat. I mention this as the Ford dealer says the only trouble they had with a focus was when the thermostat was replaced with a non Ford item that was too long and caused a restriction to flow.[/quote]
pressure in the system trelates to the coolant temp ie it has to get hot enough to increase the pressure which then pushes the hot coolant into the expansion tank this misplacement of coolant causes a vacum and cooler coolant is sucked from the bottom of the expansion tank tio replace it the system doesnt hold a lot of pressure especially in this weather the coolant just doesnt get hot enough an old fashioned way is to remove the expansion cap set the heater to hot and high and take the car for qa drive with the cap off to release any air
bt_cav
Intresting, any chance of the part number :P Would be handy for future referance
tjxkeith
[quote name='bt_cav' post='58859' date='Jan 7 2010, 11:59 PM']Intresting, any chance of the part number :P Would be handy for future referance[/quote]


The Part Number is 1086282 £26.80 + vat, but the Ford dealer confirmed it was a Ford thermostat only. he didn't say it was the correct one for the car with hindsight I should have asked.
alz
try the heater control unit, follow the two heater pipes from the engine, you should come to the unit it will have a plug and wires on it..this is most likely to be the problem,, as when it goes the heater will go cold..
tjxkeith
Well here is the latest a year on. Still intermittent heat over the last year. But 2 weeks ago go best heat ever wifeís said she drove it hard and kept rpm up and gets some heat.

I was coming to the end of a 70 mile motorway trip at the weekend and go a overheat and car went into safety mode. Gave the impression of a massive air lock and no flow to the radiator.
So next day fill system bleed it as we have done many time before to get heat from heater and we get an overheat, so out with the thermostat and boil it up on the stove appears to be ok but leave it out to see if any better, still overheats.

Next remove the water pump which I had thought of before but didnít do it as no overheating issues, until now. And I found a broken plastic impeller that had was not being turned by the pump shaft at all.

Did not get a price for a Ford one, Local Motor Factor said itís an expensive one £63+ vat. I got one from Sutton Autofactors they have branches in Nottinghamshire and now one in Lincoln which is only 20 miles from me price £17.38 + vat bit of a differ ace wonít comment on the quality or how long it may last versus Ford parts but what I will say it was a Metal impeller on a metal shaft not plastic like the Ford original. I have seen people complain before about failure plastic impellers on other makes.

Now I have no overheating and heat from the heater like itís never had before. So it looks as if the pump may have been faulty for quite awhile. And if you have lack of heat too it might be worth changing the pump. The pump was boxed CDWP30 www.continental-direct.com

Sutton Autofactors have a website to for mail order http://www.buypartsby.co.uk
I have no connection with them other than a customer that has used them in the past and find the very completive, cheapest in the Country for LUK (OEM Ford & VAG) dual mass flywheel for wifeís Focus and my Octavia but that another story.
bog69

i had a similar problem and the problem was the 2 small pipes going to the header tank. there is a small plasic bung inside each pipe about 2" in from header tank. these were blocked with crud and weren't letting the air escape from the engine. i had had a pipe split on me a while back and when i refilled the system the heater wouldnt blow any heat even tho i wasnt losing any water and i had filled the heater matrix separately too. removing the bungs was an instant cure. the car was also overheating too if i drove it hard but ok if i slowed down

artscot79
The plastic impeller issue is known on a few makes of cars its also known for failed plastic thermostat housings to let pieces of plastic into the system clogging the radiator up it could even be the heater matrix itself
bog69

this is a factory fitted bung that is inside the pipe.

 

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