nickdando

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    32
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About nickdando

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    VW up!
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Cambridgeshire
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  1. Is the cable plugged into the socket on the tonneau cover release? This need to be disconnected when putting on the hard top to prevent the switch behind the driver's seat from working. Nick
  2. I broke down of the A66 last year when the alternator packed up on mine. I was coming home from Scotland and had to stay an extra day in Middleton-in-Teesdale. It was an expensive, and worrying, diversion. The alternator wasn't easy to get hold of as it's not a stock item (I have a 55 Winter 2 so it may have a slightly different one to the standard StreetKa), but the garage did eventually track one down following a lot of ringing around. And after £300 or so was handed over, I was able to continue to Cambridgeshire. The people at the garage, an independent old family firm (the sheds were the same back in the 1920s!), were very helpful and found me somewhere to stay, and they carried out the changeover as quickly as they could. The alternator is an exchange item, as the failed one can be overhauled. Nick
  3. Most garages seem to shy away from any repairs, even centring, the steering wheel on modern cars as they are wary of the explosive charges for the airbags (or possibly, if something goes wrong and the airbag doesn't deploy in any accident, the risk of being sued?). I'd like to get my steering wheel straightened up, and possibly replaced as the covering on the rim is beginning to break down. Nick
  4. Does anyone have any tips on how to remove squeaks from the metal frame of the StreetKa canvas roof? I've tried squirting WD-40 on the various joints, very carefully to avoid getting it on the material, but it hasn't done the trick. Any further ideas? Nick
  5. Did you intend to write something? Nick
  6. Have a look behind the passenger's seat. To the right of the central lockable panel, in the corner just behind the door opening, there's a black cable clipped into place with a connector on the end. That's where lead from the roof will plug in. I'll see if I can take a photo of it tomorrow if you can't spot it. Nick
  7. Sue, The air-con on mine was ineffective, not providing any cold air, so getting the system re-charged did the trick. I had to have a new condenser fitted. Have you tried opening and closing the tonneau cover to make sure that it's properly shut? That does seem to stop a number of strange electrical problems. However, there are still electrical gremlins. Sometimes the "headlights on" buzzer doesn't work, sometimes the alarm goes off for no apparent reason. Nick
  8. What do you mean by "secret menu"? A hidden feature in the software? Nick
  9. There is a cable-pull in the boot compartment. It has a red handle and lies beneath the hanging flap of carpet that separates the roof area from the rest of the boot. But be very careful when you pull this as the tonneau cover will pop up and then hit the boot lid, removing some of the paint. If there are two people, it's much easier - one to keep the boot lid low whilst pulling on the cable, the other to catch the sudden release of the tonneau cover. It can be done with just one person - a quick tug on the handle, then shut the boot quick! Once the tonneau cover is open, you'll be able to see the release and the electrical connections in the centre of the opening, behind the roll-over hoops. There is an electrical connector that has to be disconnected when the hard top is put in place. This is done to make sure that the tonneau release doesn't pop up when the hard top is on, as it will then prevent the central locking from opening the boot, except by opening the lockable compartment between the seats, that is, and turning the key in the lock inside. The connector is on the left-hand side of the release, and should just push back into place. Just feel around for that loose cable and put it back in place. Hope this helps. Nick
  10. How many miles has the car done? Could it be a reminder to have the car serviced? Nick
  11. Are the hidden fuses for the heated seats of the normal blade type? I've had a look at the fuses that I can easily see and there are twenty of them in two rows of ten. Undoing the two screws and dropping the fuse box down reveals a set of six larger brown things on top of the fuse tray. The one of the left was marked as PA66-GF25 and it also has a Ford logo with the number G1UHQ. Looking that number up on Google reveals that it is a relay. So is one of these the item that will need to be replaced to make the heated seats work? Nick
  12. Try a graphite lubricant to see if that frees the lock u. http://www.google.co.uk/#sclient=psy&hl=en&q=graphite+lubricant+spray&aq=3&aqi=g4g-o1&aql=&oq=&pbx=1&fp=b3940ee4607a5f41 Nick
  13. I don't do a great many miles, but on my trips to and from work, which are 16 miles there and back again on B roads at 60 mph or less, then I'll get around 30 to the gallon (or about 240ish miles to a tankful). On the occasional long runs, this can stretch to 35 mpg. It's not good for such a small engine in such a small car. Nick
  14. I've just had a look at my fuel filler flap, it has the following embossed on the inside: 3S51-A405A0R-ABW If the seller can confirm that his flap has that on it, then it could possibly be OK to purchase. Nick
  15. There is this on eBay but I can't really tell if it's the right type. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-StreetKa-Street-Ka-Cabriolet-Fuel-Petrol-Flap-New-/380272516145?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item588a021c31#ht_2300wt_907 Nick