Budding Enthusiast
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About ZeEscort

  • Rank
    Cert Genius

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  • Ford Model
    Mondeo 2.5 Ghia V6
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Car Modification
    Road Trips
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. From past experience with other cars, most use the cheap alternative fuels and though I don't blame them, though overtime I have noticed issues with higher performance. I'm a regular cleaner when it comes to oil and will be switching to premium fuel once drained, hopefully giving engine a new lease of life as it has done with the Ghia X.
  2. I've become a great fan of the Mondeo and so looking to upgrade from the Ghia X to an ST220, now as we have so many great people on the site who like to help and offer advice, I'm after some advice on the ST220. I'm being very specific on the type I'm looking for, as I want either the one with the cream leather interior or the red/cream, im also looking for the one with the Nav installed so I am aware it will take me a while before I spot one again (I've already seen one, just didn't have the cash at the time to purchase). Once purchased it will be going straight in for a full service and full drain on both oil and fuel. So what do I need to look out for from the ST220, is there anything I should take into consideration before buying one. I'm hoping to pick one up around 50,000 - 80,000 on clock, as I know with my own that these engines will do at least 200,000 if they are looked after properly. Anyway as always, all help and advice is greatly appreciated.
  3. Key is that worn, no possible way of reading. The trouble is, if I replace barrel I'm also going to have to replace door locks as well. I swear this car has caused me more trouble than my last one lol.
  4. You can't make out what the code is from the Key, as there is no code on the key. As for ignition barrel, if that went I can get around it without any problems (Always carry tools for that sort of thing). The issue I have, is I don't want to have to remove one of the locks to dismantle it and get the code from the barrel pins. Is there anyway I can find out who the original dealer was, as one bit of advice I was given was that they might have the keycode down on record (this came from Ford).
  5. Where would I find the code for a key cutter, as my key for car is so beyond recognition they can't copy & cut so they require the code for the key to make a replacement. All help appreciated.
  6. Don't drive with a damaged water pump, I did this on an old mk5 escort and regretted it when it went fully. As it went in 2ft of snow and damaged the belt, so cost more to replace.
  7. According to their site yes (though slightly miffed the heat shield isn't included).
  8. You will need to purchase a wiring loom, which you can get from Halfords. It depends on the stereo you want to fit, either single (Will require a single din holder) or double din will fit (though sometimes you need to modify the area first, as not all double dins fit).
  9. K&N are a good start, but you need to make sure you get the one with the shield and not without. http://www.knfilters.co.uk/search/product.aspx?prod=57-0595
  10. 1: Wishbone/Suspension Arms bushes (I had this problem and mine were pretty much gone) 2: Check exhaust around the first cat 3: 2 issues for this, the first being coil springs are snapped (Check that they have fitted the caps correctly, they should sit tightly at the top of the coil with very little movement) and other issue is wheel bearings. 4: Exhaust replacement (I've got the same issue at the moment and needs replacing) The rattle is your heat shield, easy fix though just tighten up the nut on the shield. Any parts such as bumpers, always use Ebay (I find auto salvages very useless at times).
  11. I swear this car just hates me right now. Besides going to Ford, who rip the hell out of you in terms of ££££ to replace. Anyone know of any good reliable place, that I can get a replacement key from (that doesn't cost the earth). I've found mine has become heavily worn around the middle to base of the key and so now struggling to open the steering lock.
  12. Remove/disconnect the engine ECU and leave it off for about 15 minute and then connect it back up, this should reset the limp mode. I had this with an Astra on replacement of the turbo (though faulty ECU at the time) and this worked a treat.
  13. Also just to add, the Double Din don't always fit correctly and may need some modification to the dash to get it in. I had an issue with a Sony one being slightly too big to fit properly.
  14. loss of power when hot or in hot temps, is more likely going to be either a temp sensor issue or water pump problems. I would suggest getting it in to a reputable garage, let them take it out and they should be able to tell you straight away what the issue is. Either way, it's an issue with the clutch.
  15. It's a 2.5 v6 (it's the same engine as the 3.0l) Mileage is 107,000 The power range is now just flat out all the way through rev range, normally you would feel it switch modes at 3krpm+ (You could feel the umph) and that's gone. Exhaust seems like the culprit, as I had a advisory on both MOT's (the pass and fail) as the sleeve on first section of exhaust is no longer fully attached and slides up and down. I've got to do a full service on it soon anyway, as I've not changed filters since I bought it last December. So will get plugs changed at the same time as well. No noticeable leaks from under the car, will get it up on ramps this weekend and check the hoses. This is first time I've topped up oil in last year, so will monitor that.