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Budding Enthusiast
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About carlo

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    Settling In Well

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  • Ford Model
    Ford Fiesta 1.4 Tdci Style Plus
  1. Hi, yes the sequence you used is correct for the ford fiesta PATS systems,and also i would agree that the chances are that there are already the max amount of key's programmed to the car.Just another question? You did get the correct transponder key for the car??
  2. HI, it's not just the fiesta range which have this problem the focus range also have this ABS modulator failure,ford did a recall some time back to be able to correct this fault on the focus range,I have replaced quite a few of these modulator's on focuses out of warranty,because as you say it is an expensive repair at a dealer and to be honest it is not that much cheaper at an independent garage such as mine,cost of the modulator is very dear.I don't know were you stand with the legal implecation's,ford are alway's going to argue that your car is out of warranty,leasing or no leasing.You may end up with a good will gesture from them.
  3. Hi jason, If you want to hook these footwell lights up independently you will have to do the following: 1.Find a 12v supply (you say you do not want to splice into the existing loom,so that also counts out the fuse board as pushing wires into fuse holders is not recommended,it will have to be the battery,which now brings the problem of routing the wire through the bulkhead rubber into the engine compartment. 2.Find an earth point near the battery (there's one behind the near side headlight on the chassis leg,near to the engine compartment fuse box) 3.Find a location in the car for the switch which turns the lights on and off,stuffing under the dash fascia is not very nice looking or professional.A possible position would be, if you open the glove box you will see the place were the passenger airbag isolation switch should live(if not fitted)this position would be ideal. 4.once you have run all the wire in you need to put a fuse holder (use a 10amp fuse) inline before the switch, maybe under the dash or next to the battery connection. 5.Connect the wires to the switch from the battery. 6.connect the wires from the footwell lights to the switch. If everything has been carried out correctly your footwell lights can now be turned on/off independently by the switch. Regards Carlo
  4. HI danny, what problems you are having!look at the green connector plug,as i said earlier the pins run 1to12 top row left to right and 13to 24 bottom row right to left you want pin 20 (blue wire with a brown tracer) cut this wire insert one end of the blue/brown wire into the heatshrink connector and the other end of the blue/brown wire together with the orange wire of the illum gear knob into the other end of the heatshrink connector crimp both ends and heat,this will give a nice professional splice. you've already located the GEM from my earlier postings,so it should be quite easy. regards carlo
  5. Hi, it seems by the symtoms you've described that the mass airflow meter is faulty,and yes there will be no light on the dash as the ECU does not recognise this as a primary fault only secondary on this year of vehicle,there may be a code logged in the memory if so this will be P0100 and possibly P0101,P0102.Best way to test this is to first find out if your getting the correct voltages at the connector,there should be a 12v supply and a wire giving a voltage when the vehicle is running between 0.5v and 5.0v for varying revs if these are all correct and you have no diagnostic equipment available you will have to revert back to the method of disconnecting the sensor to see if this adjusts the running of the vehicle in anyway,but be aware that disconnecting the MAF sensor whilst the engine is running WILL generate a fault code in the ECU.You mensioned a weird layer in the coolant res are you sure this is not oil??
  6. It is possible to have got a faulty sensor,but you've now mentioned the insulation around the wires is looking shoddy, check all the loom as best you can especially were there is a lot of heat and where water could of penetrated the loom.As for testing the sensor the only reliable way would be to connect up to a diagnostic tester which is capable of live data logging, I could give you values what you are supposed to be getting at the sensor connector but this isn't testing the sensor itself,you could test the continuity of the circuit ie. from the sensor plug to the ECU plug if you have a descent multimeter# BUT BE VERY CAREFUL AT THE ECU END #without looking at the wireing diagram i'm not sure what pins or wire colours you would have to mobile number and we can talk.
  7. Yes your correct but why cause yourself all that work when it's not needed, snip of one wire,solder and heat shrink job done protected by the sidelight fuse! simples as the meerkat say's
  8. Yes i understand that and if your happy that's all that matters!
  9. That's fine that your pride and joy hasn't dissapeared in a puff of smoke,but take your car to a dealer with any major fault and i'm almost certain if they see the wireing job they will almost certainly try to release themselves from there warranty responsibilty!If ford void warranties because genuine ford parts arn't used by independent garages like mine they will certainly if they know you've tinkered with the wiring circuits. But hay Ho you young lad's seem to know best!!
  10. Hi Ren,I am almost certain your problem is being caused by a faulty Coolant temp sensor,(don't get confused with the sender unit which monitors the coolant temp and sends the temp reading to the dash),this sensor works within the engine management system.And yes you are correct in saying the car in running lean on start up because the temp sensor is telling the ECU that the engine is hot and therefore requires less fuel,but once the engine is genuinly hot it would start ok. hope this has been helpful.
  11. As soon as you start playing around with anything on a new car like adding footwell lights if they are not already present you VOID your warrenty.And yes I am quite aware of canbus systems on vehicles as I'm am mechanic/auto electrian of thirty years,alot of years working on fords,how many years have you in the trade of selling parts??
  12. Relay,switch direct to the battery or fusebox,WHAT A LOAD OF !Removed!!!! the footwell lights are carrying such a low current, wattage there's absolutely no need for relays and nonsense like that.Just connect into the loom(side lights wire) at the rear of the light switch on the dash,then when you turn on the side lights your footwell lights will come on.Just make sure all connections are good ie.soldered or crimped and everything will be fine.Besides your side lights are protected by it's own fuse all you are doing is slightly extending this circuit.
  13. Hi, now you've taken the glove box down,remove the two pins(one each side holding the glove box onto the facsia)and remove the glove box alltogether.Once this is out of the way then you will have to remove the bottom facsia plate (two pins,pull down to release)you will not be able to remove this completely unless you disconnect the module on the back of the plate,when this is removed(look up from below) there you will see the green conector,blue conector and other white connectors of the GEM unit to which you connect the gear knob. The green connector pins run 1-12 (left to right,top row) and pins 13-24 right to left bottom row you need pin 20.if your still having problems after this i will post photo's.
  14. For the fiesta 09 plate you should have a stamp on the service page, but no stamp on the body and paint page that will come next service (Major service)2yr or 25,000 mile.some models in the ford range do have body and paint inspections on a 12 month basis but not the fiesta 2008- model range.
  15. Yes your completely correct fuses are there for a reason! I certainly would'nt want that type of wiring job on my car! i still can't believe people are struggling to find the GEM unit to wire the gear knob or sills into,must be blind!!!!