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Pug

Budding Enthusiast
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    8
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About Pug

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    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    51 Plate Puma 1.7
  1. Thanks but I fixed it in the end (meant to come back and post progress but forgot, sorry). Disconnecting the battery for a while cured it. Easiest fix I've had in a while. :) [Edit] Can a mod add {Solved} to the topic title for me? I don't seem to have edit privileges on it. Ta.
  2. Anyone? Any other suggestions on curing this? Read somewhere else about disconnecting the battery for the ECU to reset its values for the TPS to zero... Actually, I think it may be a 1.25 engine, not a 1.3, fwiw. I have a multimeter here. Can anyone confirm what values I should be looking for to test?
  3. Got called in on this one after a diagnostic showed a faulty TPS, which was replaced but the problem persists. Essentially, it's revving on after the clutch is depressed. Can't take it back to the original mechanic, as I think it's an ex-boyfriend or something similar. From what I read, this is a known issue and there is a newer uprated connector available. Question is, where do I get one from? Did Ford actually do a recall on this, meaning I can get it for free or is it a dealer part I need to request? Thanks in advance for any help I can get. :)
  4. I'' be watching the outcome of this, as we're stuck with only one key on our Puma too. Can I quickly check (not worth a new thread) that I can still change the battery in this one without fear of it losing its identity? I just have to do it quick, right? 30 secs or something? That'll give me peace of mind to get replacements done at Ford Fair, if not from ebay beforehand. Cheers in advance (and good luck with it, Bulletguy). :)
  5. Ah, so that's what this profile box does... not custom title.

  6. I think the paint is Pacific Green but I need to check (we bought a 51 plate yesterday in the same colour :) ), so I'll let you know if/when I find out differently, unless someone else beats me to it. I've read that the cambelt interval was reduced by Ford from an original 10 years or 100k miles to 5 years or 80k miles on the 1.7 (though I'm sure I've seen 6yrs/60k bandied about too). If it was me, I'd set 100k as your milestone for changing it, together with a complete service. It'd be like resetting your trip meter but on a bigger scale, at least as far as peace of mind's concerned. :D Oil change is 10k, I think (with 5k checks advocated by many if the car does a lot of short journeys). For a comprehensive list of everything else service related, I'll direct you to this link. B) We're in the same boat with the stereo too but I'll try to find that out later today, as we'll be weighing up the option of that against replacing the head unit with a newer double-DIN one. [update] On the CD autochanger front, I believe there's a short lead on the unit itself but that you can get an extension lead (with a boot mounting kit too). Some autochangers may come with a lead (if you're buying used), so worth checking. I think I'd like to see if I could make up an adaptor for a portable mp3 player instead. I've seen the ones for £50-60 but I can't understand what makes them so expensive for what they are. [edit] Forgot to mention about the spec - the two main options to look for are the air con (should be self evident) and the Lux pack (with heated screen and so forth). Easiest way to tell if you have the Lux pack is to see if your side mirrors are electric or manual, as part of the option consisted of electrically adjustable and heated mirrors too. Hope it helps.
  7. Not if it's disconnected and you have two working ones.
  8. Maybe try a continuity test from the boot connection to the lamp?
  9. You didn't actually start it up though, no? If not, you may be okay with a flush (although they recommend warming the engine up as part of the process). Try your local motor factor and see what product they can advise. Don't forget to change the oil filter too though. :) [edit] Oops, just saw the date of the post, sorry.