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Hi, I found recently after jumpstarting a colleagues car, that the radio failed to turn on afterwards. I checked the obvious fuses (F31, F50, F7 in that order of likelyhood) but no joy, all OK. Out of desperation, I just tried removing, then replacing the little removable security panel (the channel changer), and BINGO - it fixed it. I can only assume that doing a jump-start (with engine running) can sometimes corrupt the internal power logic of the radio, and it sometimes THINKS that the panel has been removed, but just needs to get itself back in sync. TD
Hi mondo80 - you are a star - absoluteley spot on!! Many thanks. I got a £4 tube of the High Temp Silicone Grease from MAPLIN (thie part no. is RE90X) - the best 4 squid I ever spent!! I will elaborate a bit, as it is not quite as I thought. I removed all 4 plugs to check (as I had done before -but this time I checked them very carefully). I spotted the middle 2 had BOTH got evidence of flash-over tracking from the top, along the porcelain, to the plug body. This appeared to be a hard, carbonised, almost metallic track, and was quite difficult to remove (needed very fine wet and dry, and a bit of that special white sponge that ladies like to use in the kitchen - I think it is by JML - in Woollies. Just damp it a bit, and rotate the porcelain part in it, then polish off with lint-free cloth or kitchen-roll). Once cleaned, I also vacuumed all the small bits of debris from the top of the rocker cover (where the leads run) - so as not to get bits into the plug dwells. I applied the Silicone Grease sparingly on all pocelain surfaces of each plug, and in the insides of the long plug tops (used a metal rod to work it around the insides), and some around the outsides, to also water-seal the top area sealing ribs - plenty on the flat bit at the bottom, to stop water ingress too). ORIGINAL CAUSES: using a cheap plug spanner, and overgapping. The plug-spanner I use has a rubber gripping grommet in each end, but since it is cheap and nasty, they used an inferior rubber, that leaves a line of rubber on the porcelain. This is probably recycled from old tyres, so has a small metal content - perfect to promote tracking and carbonisation with the 30KV or so pushed out by modern electronic ignition systems. A spark gap that is too great (appeared to be over 1.5mm - about 60 THOU on these middle 2 as well, so I knocked them down to a tight 50 THOU (just under 1.3mm). The HIGH VOLTAGE will try to find its way across any weak point that is a lower dielectic reistance than the air-gap - hence the flash-over and tracking (that then MAKES a semi-permanent pathway to loose your proper spark). Tick-over probably uses less than 30KV, so did NOT show up unless the ECU kicked in to increase the ignition power on pull-away loads. Many thanks, TD.
Hi mondo80 - very useful input. I remember form another forum that the dwell where the long-reach plug-tops go, tends to gather water from washer or car wash - and then causes flash-over of the HT voltage down to the metal head. I guess the "contact grease" must act as a good insulator and stop the flashover (that would otherwise just stop the spark from happening where it should be). Nice logical fix - and I can probably get a similar compound from an electronics shop (MAPLIN maybe?). Anyway, I will try a GOOGLE of Ford Contact Grease. Many thanks for the useful tip. Cheers, TD.
Hello - I have a similar type of problem on a V REG 2000 1.8 petrol ZETEC. (misfile on pullaway - but no ECU or other mgmt light on). The plugs are fairly new, and the leads all meter out fine at around 5K each, with no cracking. All vacuum hoses for emission controls arer OK (No vacuum leaks). It ticks over fine, but on a slight extra load (e.g. switch on AIRCON), you can feel the occasional mis-fire. ON pullaway, there is a distinct loss of power and missing. Is it worth removing the injectors and removing the seals (I have 8 new ones), then dunking them in injector cleaner overnight (The USA forums seem to recommend a strong cleaner that removes all the gunk overnight). Do the FORD ZETEC ones have MICROFILTERS - and can these be cleaned in situ -or will a chemical clener do the trick?? If not injectors - what is the device on the LEFT TOP of the bulkhead that seems to be some sort of injector control - plus a small metal disk like a filter - is this a pressure regulator?? Should I change it to elimate it?? Sorry for so many questions - but this misfire is getting rather frustrating - and I don't want to spend £60 at a dealer for them to just read ECU codes AND pay for several parts on top. Thanks for your understanding - I am new to this forum. Regards, TD.