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Stephen Leak

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    100
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About Stephen Leak

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table
  • Birthday 06/10/1955

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    2004 Fiesta Mk.6 1.4 TDCi Zetec
  1. The existing reversing light bulb is the legal maximum, ie. 21 Watts.
  2. The "airbag" warning light actually covers the Supplementary Restraint System (SRS) which also includes the front seat belt pre-tensioners. This is what the wiring under the front seats is for.
  3. OSRAM do matching "Cool Blue" halogen sidelights. They're like little halogen headlight bulbs with a "501" capless/wedge base. The light output is comparable to a standard 21W bulb.
  4. It's looking like that. There's a YouTube video on cloning keys and the key they use is identical to my Silca one. Any idea of the potential prices? I suppose that I ought to also ring the local Ford dealers, so that the independent's prices seem better.
  5. I have 2 keys. Both came with the car. One is a standard Ford non-remote key, with a blue chip holder containing a carbon ID4D chip. The other is a Silca (they make key blanks) one with an immobiliser circuit board with a battery inside. If this key is a clone, then that would explain everything. And there is also another possible nightmare scenario. Evidently, the ability to program extra keys with two others can be disabled using the Ford IDS2000 system.
  6. The existing blue coded non-remote key has a carbon ID4D chip. The new remote key has a glass chip. From the key's part number (AB suffix) it should be an ID4C one. I am advised that AA and AB remote keys have glass ID4C chips and AC and AD remote keys have glass ID4D chips. However, I have seen AA and AD remote keys used in the same car (albeit a 2003 Focus). I have yet to see a remote key with a carbon ID4D chip. It looks like I may have to find a cheap (used, ideally faulty) AC or AD key for its glass ID4D chip.
  7. I think that I've done this, but I will try again in the morning. When I turn the new key to position II (Run), the warning light doesn't go out, but flashes rapidly, which indicates that the chip is not present or has not been recognised. The light doesn't go out after a while, but changes to flashing slowly. It either isn't entering learning mode or recognising the new chip. I do have another glass chip, and it doesn't work with that one either. I don't know what type that chip should be.
  8. That's it. The handbook doesn't mention what the warning light should or shouldn't be doing. I've been waiting for the warning light to go out with each programmed key, as this should indicate that the ECU has recognised the chip as a programmed one. I've removed the new key, as it says in the handbook. I've also left it at position II: the warning light flashes rapidly, then reverts to flashing slowly.
  9. I'm trying to code a new remote key's immobiliser chip into my car's ECU. I'm following the instructions in the handbook. It's not working. Do I just keep trying, until I get the timings exactly right? Or, is the new chip the wrong type? My existing blue coded key has a carbon ID4D chip. The new key has an AB suffix and a glass chip, which should be an ID4C chip. Do I need to get an AC or AD key with a glass ID4D chip? However, I have seen an AA key, which should have an ID4C chip, and an AC key, which should have an ID4D chip, in use on the same car.
  10. There's no warning light nor a requirement to wait with my 2004 oil burner. However, my mechanic, a diesel specialist, did advise me to keep the engine running for a short while. especially after a long run, to help cool down the turbocharger.
  11. There are ones, with a "501" base and with an LED on each of the 5 other faces, which look like they ought to spread the light very well.
  12. I'd like to fix something to the top of what I can only describe as the "transmission tunnel" behind the handbrake. Does anyone know whether or not there is anything vital on the underside? I'm using the shortest screws that I can, and they only protrude 8mm from the bottom of the item.
  13. Another vote for OSRAM Night Breakers. The OSRAM W5W 501 halogen sidelights are available on eBay. The light output is, allegedly, the same as a 21W bulb. However, make sure that you get the halogen ones, with the drawn-out bit on the end like a halogen headlight. Unfortunately, OSRAM also do a "normal" version (which looks like a standard W5W 501 bulb with a rounded end), and some sellers still mention "halogen" or "xenon" in the title and/or description.
  14. If the missing key is a remote one, with two coded keys, you can also erase the missing key's remote code from the GEM, just in case. Again, how to do so is in the handbook.
  15. I'm having problems programming a new key's immobiliser transponder into the ECU. I'm following the instructions in the handbook, but I suspect that I'm still doing something wrong. I'm using my two existing programmed keys, and removing them when the immobiliser warning light goes out, which seems the right thing to do, as it means that the ECU has recognised them. I then put the new unprogrammed key in, turn it to position 2, and the warning light flashes rapidly, indicating that the system has either not detected a transponder or not detected a "known" one. The new key doesn't start the engine. I even have another unprogrammed transponder, and I can't get this one to work either.