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Ben...

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    376
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Ben...

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table
  • Birthday 12/06/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Mk 7 Fiesta Zetec-S TDCi
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  • Contributor
    3

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Farnham Common
  1. Tooling Required New Springs Trolley Jack Spring Compressors Axle Stand Metric Spanners (Ideally Ratchet Spanners) An 18mm Ring Spanner (See Step 16) Metric Allen Keys Metric Socket Set Torque Wrench Step 1 Purchase Springs Step 2 Jack up the rear of one side of the car Remove wheel Step 3 Undo bolt at the base of the shock 15mm socket Step 4 Either 1. Get someone to stand on the hub (easy option) 2. Compress the rear spring (hard to get to) An pull the spring out Step 5 Get your new spring and put the locating rubber grommet in the top (Writing goes the correct way up) Step 6 Replace the new spring getting the top in place first Either 1. Get someone to stand on the hub and fit spring 2. Slightly compress the side of the spring closest to the front of the car and fit spring Then replace wheel Step 7 Jack up the other side of the car and replace the other rear spring Step 8 Jack up the front of one side of the car Remove Wheel Step 9 Using spring compressors Put one on each side of the spring Tighten each compressor a little bit at a time keeping the spring even Tighten until the spring can rattle about and feels loose Step 10 Locate 3 strut bolts in engine bay Step 11 Remove 2 of the nuts and loosen the third 13mm Ratchet Spanner Step 12 Undo brake hose mounting clip 10mm Ratchet Spanner Step 13 Undo the bolt attaching the drop link to the shock 15mm Ratchet Spanner 5mm Allen Key Step 14 Undo the 2 bolts attatching the shock to the hub 18mm Socket 15mm Socket/15mm Ratchet Spanner Step 15 Undo the remaining nut in the engine bay 13mm Ratchet Spanner Push down the hub The shock should now just fall out Step 16 Undo the bolt holding the strut together 18mm Ring Spanner 6mm Allen Key Step 17 Pull off Metal Top Plate, Plastic Spacer & Rubber Housing Then loosen the spring compressors a little bit at a time keeping the spring even Step 18 Compress new spring to the same length the old one was compressed to Put the spring on the shock Replace Rubber Housing, Plastic Spacer & Metal Top Plate Step 19 Replace nut on the the stud 18mm Ring Spanner 6mm Allen Key Step 20 Put strut back in place and replace the 3 nuts in the engine bay 13mm Ratchet Spanner Put an axle stand under the lower arm Step 21 Lower trolley jack slowly until the bolt attaching the drop link to the shock lines up with the hole Replace the nut 15mm Ratchet Spanner 5mm Allen Key Step 22 Replace the 2 bolts attacthing the strut to the hub Replace the bolt fixing the brake hose in place Remove the spring compressors Then replace Wheel Step 23 Do the same to the other side Note the spring compressors do not need to be put on the front springs until the shocks have been removed from the car
  2. Thanks for the kind words. The car is pretty much done to exactly how I wanted about 18 months ago so not much is being done. One thing I would of liked to do was put the black leathers in with the red stitching. I had an opportunity for some a couple of years ago at a good price which I now regret not buying. Rarely mate. Still got it though. Will post up when it's going on sale. Won't be for a while yet though. Don't know the part number because the better one I got was from eBay. I believe it was elites as 'wood strike and catch'
  3. I'm just broadening my search before I buy some to get the cheapest ones lol
  4. Hi All I need some standard replacement callipers for my 2009 Zetec S. I was wondering if anyone on here had any idea what other fords or any other cars use the same callipers..? Thanks in advance for any replies
  5. Hi, I have been looking at getting coilovers but like u i am sitting on 16s and I am really interested to see how they look with lowering springs and I don't know if it would be low enough for me on my 16s, thanks eve

  6. Tooling Required New Springs Trolley Jack Spring Compressors Axle Stand Metric Spanners (Ideally Ratchet Spanners) An 18mm Ring Spanner (See Step 16) Metric Allen Keys Metric Socket Set Torque Wrench Step 1 Purchase Springs Step 2 Jack up the rear of one side of the car Remove wheel Step 3 Undo bolt at the base of the shock 15mm socket Step 4 Either 1. Get someone to stand on the hub (easy option) 2. Compress the rear spring (hard to get to) An pull the spring out Step 5 Get your new spring and put the locating rubber grommet in the top (Writing goes the correct way up) Step 6 Replace the new spring getting the top in place first Either 1. Get someone to stand on the hub and fit spring 2. Slightly compress the side of the spring closest to the front of the car and fit spring Then replace wheel Step 7 Jack up the other side of the car and replace the other rear spring Step 8 Jack up the front of one side of the car Remove Wheel Step 9 Using spring compressors Put one on each side of the spring Tighten each compressor a little bit at a time keeping the spring even Tighten until the spring can rattle about and feels loose Step 10 Locate 3 strut bolts in engine bay Step 11 Remove 2 of the nuts and loosen the third 13mm Ratchet Spanner Step 12 Undo brake hose mounting clip 10mm Ratchet Spanner Step 13 Undo the bolt attaching the drop link to the shock 15mm Ratchet Spanner 5mm Allen Key Step 14 Undo the 2 bolts attatching the shock to the hub 18mm Socket 15mm Socket/15mm Ratchet Spanner Step 15 Undo the remaining nut in the engine bay 13mm Ratchet Spanner Push down the hub The shock should now just fall out Step 16 Undo the bolt holding the strut together 18mm Ring Spanner 6mm Allen Key Step 17 Pull off Metal Top Plate, Plastic Spacer & Rubber Housing Then loosen the spring compressors a little bit at a time keeping the spring even Step 18 Compress new spring to the same length the old one was compressed to Put the spring on the shock Replace Rubber Housing, Plastic Spacer & Metal Top Plate Step 19 Replace nut on the the stud 18mm Ring Spanner 6mm Allen Key Step 20 Put strut back in place and replace the 3 nuts in the engine bay 13mm Ratchet Spanner Put an axle stand under the lower arm Step 21 Lower trolley jack slowly until the bolt attaching the drop link to the shock lines up with the hole Replace the nut 15mm Ratchet Spanner 5mm Allen Key Step 22 Replace the 2 bolts attacthing the strut to the hub Replace the bolt fixing the brake hose in place Remove the spring compressors Then replace Wheel Step 23 Do the same to the other side Note the spring compressors do not need to be put on the front springs until the shocks have been removed from the car
  7. Should put this in guides section?!
  8. It taken about 10/15 mins to do Take out the existing light by pushing the tab on the forward side of the light Put your arm up behind the lower trim (from by the pedals) and reach to the back of the light switch, it has a massive catch on the top and bottom that you need to squeeze and push out the switch Crimp the spade connector on the length of wire Push the wire to where the interior light goes from the front of the roof lining by the windscreen Then make sure you have enough to be able to remove the light in the future Run the wire across the top of the roof lining by pushing it in Then remove the rubber door seal on the upright at the front of the car Run the wire behind the A pillar on the side closest to the car door then tuck it through the gap to behind the light switch Use a multimeter to find out which wire is for the side lights Then connect how you wish
  9. Look up Brodit Proclip
  10. I was thinking of doing this, not for a reverse monitor, but for a monitor displaying sat nav and other media (music) I had a measure up and i was considering attaching rails to the sides, but the back of the compartment it a lot narrower than the front So in the end I decided on a runner mounted on the base of the compartment with a sprung loaded hinge to flip the screen up, and then a small knurled bolt to clamp the runners while the screen was out Decided it wasn't worth the effort in the end lol
  11. I connected one spade to a red wire and to a female spade. This plugs in to the positive existing plug Then another spade to a black wire and to a female spade. This plugs in to the negative existing plug Standard bulbs are white. I tried red and didnt like it do went for the standard look. Fitted lenses though rather than usin existing holder
  12. Those cable lock connectors aren't the best and it still splits the wires insulation Do it properly and get some insulated male and female spade connectors. They're probably cheaper and you can split directly from the existing plug without cutting any wires
  13. The light has a lens and a bulb holder which is secured in to it the same way it would screw in to the mounts in your car Go scrap yard. They come in mk1 focus, mk4/mk5/mk6/mk7 fiesta and mk1 ka's. Maybe other but not sure
  14. Sorry brother!