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keith-focus

Budding Enthusiast
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About keith-focus

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  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.8 TDCI
  1. Disco73, intermittent faults are the worst. You have to reproduce the fault at the garage for anyone to look at it, which can be very difficult. I have the same model as you and I had a similar problem. Mine started off with no increase in revs at start up and going into limp home mode above 3000RPM. To cut a very long story short, the (first non-Ford garage) diagnostics showed MAF, so they changed that and it didn't fix it (found after I drove it home). They couldn't believe it so they changed it again for an original Ford part and that didn't fix it either. Each time they reset the ECU and revved the car the same fault appeared on their equipment. They gave up, so I had to take it to a Ford garage. The Ford garage ran diagnostics that pointed towards MAF and throttle position sensor. They tested both and found both were working, so they tested the wiring and found an incorrect voltage at pin 3 of the MAF. They traced this back to pin 14 on the battery junction box, where they found a bad connection. They "repaired and made good the connector". 94 quid later my problem was fixed. This may not be the same problem for you, but I have learnt not to take the results of the diagnostic equipment at face value. In my case there appeared to be something wrong with the MAF but it was actually a wrong voltage caused by something else. I hope this help you, Keith
  2. Stitchly, I had a very similar problem with my 1.8 TDCI. After a (non-Ford) garages mis-diagnosed the fault the Ford garage finally fixed it. (do a search in this forum for “ revs won’t increase after start up”, it a bit of a long story I am afraid) The Ford garage tested the wiring and found an incorrect voltage at pin 3 of the Mass Air Flow sensor. They traced this back to pin 14 on the battery junction box, where they found a bad connection. They "repaired and made good the connector". Since then the problem has gone. However don’t discount a faulty throttle position sensor or Mass Air Flow sensor. There is a wealth of knowledge on this forum, just need to search. Good luck, Keith
  3. I know what you mean when you say I am just glad it's all sorted. Sounds like the first garage was onto something when they said it was the glow plugs relay. How were the glow plugs faulty? Were they on all the time or did they not come on when you started. I guess this is what was causing the white smoke. I wonder what caused all four to be faulty. (maybe they were on all the time and burnt out) Anyway, I am glad you car is fixed. Thanks for posting your solution for other to look up in future. Keith
  4. Yes, my total cost was 94 quid at the main dealer, that included the fix. (and car washes!!) Keith
  5. Sorry all for not making my solution clearer. It was a bad connection on pin 14 in the battery junction box that finally fixed the fault. The Ford main dealer "repaired and made good the connector" and I haven't had the fault since. I had suffered loss of power and revs would not increase at start up but did not have any white smoke. There does seem to be a number of faults that could cause similar symptoms but in my case it was just the bad connection. Keith
  6. Thanks Catch for your post and questions. Its bit of a long story so here goes... I had only bought the car two months ago from an independent garage who gives a six month warrantee. The warrantee is with "Autoprotect" so basically if your car goes wrong you deal with the warrantee company and not the garage. (So the garage just sells you the car and gets rid of you, clever!!) I have Gold protection that gives up to £1000 of protection (in one claim). However, once you phone them up you find the small print. First of all you must deal with their approved garage, which is any Nationwide Autocentre. Then they will not pay for the diagnostics only the repair. My diagnostic was £49 and they ordered the first MAF. The garage then agreed the price (which I was not told) with the Warrantee Company. When the part arrived they decided I also needed an air filter which was not agreed with the Warrantee Company, so that cost me another £20. The MAF and air filter did not fix the problem, so the garage ordered an original Ford MAF. That was fitted to my car at no cost to me (but I don't know if the Warrantee Company were contacted and paid for). This second MAF still did not fix the problem. Here's the catch. The warrantee company will not pay for the new parts if it didn't fix the problem. (Which is I assume to stop people totally renewing their engine parts at the warrantee companies expense) So the garage know that it didn't fix the problem but I'm not telling the warrantee company or I will get a bill for two MAF's. The garage told me to get it diagnosed at a Ford main dealer. The Ford main dealer charged me one hour’s labour, £94, to diagnose, which of course I could not reclaim and also Warrantee Company would know it wasn't fixed at the first garage. The Ford main dealer fixed the fault and didn't charge me any extra. (I have dealt with Autoprotect before with my last car and when it goes to a main dealer they will only pay up to £50/hour labour for a repair) Therefore it cost me £49 + £20 + £94 = £163 and a whole lot of time off! Ever think you've been had!! (At least the car works now and if I had bought it private, although it would have been cheaper, I would have to stump up all costs) Well you did ask :) Keith
  7. Mine turned out to be a bad connection in the battery junction box (pin 14), now fixed. I never had any smoke behind me so I think your problem could be something different. Please see the replies from the other kind posters and hope you get your problem sorted. Please let us all know what the solution is so it can help others, Keith
  8. Good news, the car is fixed!! Took it back to the Ford main dealer for the day and they printed out some circuit diagrams. They tested the mass air flow sensor (MAF) and throttle position sensor and both were ok. They tested the wiring and found an incorrect voltage at pin 3 of the MAF. They traced this back to pin 14 on the battery junction box, where they found a bad connection. They "repaired and made good the connector". Charged me 94 quid and washed my car a second time in a week. Gave the car thrash around and seems ok. Moral of this story is look beyond the obvious and get it checked out at a proper garage. (Even if it costs a bit more, it could save you time) Thanks to everyone for reading and posting replies. Hope someone else reading this in future will benefit from my solution. Keith
  9. Update.. I dropped it at the Ford garage for the afternoon but they only managed half hour of diagnostics (but they did have time to clean it inside and out!!) and the came back with MAS and throttle position sensor. I think the problems are related as both started on the same day (unless I am really unlucky!) Reading other posts the throttle position sensor does make sense.(as MrrNoName suggested in earlier posts, thanks) So I've still got the problem and needed to rebook. It's booked in all day on Wednesday (so they can complete the other half hour of diagnostics!) and will let you know of the outcome. (I've also relpyed on Lugo's who has a "diesel with loss of power") Keith
  10. Lugo, I have a similar problem with my 1.8 tdci. If I exceed about 3K RPM the car goes into (what I assume is) limp home mode, then I have a power loss and is very difficult to accelerate above 2K RPM. I can recover by pulling over and switching off the engine and re-starting, if I then drive carefully without exceeding 3K RPM it has normal power. I also have the engine management light on too. I also (sometimes) have a problem when I start the car, pressing the accelerator nothing happens to the revs. Then it starts to work after about 30 seconds - 1 minute. I think the problems are related as both started on the same day (unless I am really unlucky!) I had it diagnosed at an independent garage who said it was the mass airflow sensor (MAS). After changing two and still not fixing the problem they sent me to a Ford main dealer. I dropped it at the Ford garage for the afternoon but they only managed half hour of diagnostics (but did have time to clean it inside and out!!) and the came back with MAS and throttle position sensor. So I've still got the problem. Reading other posts the throttle position sensor does make sense. It's booked in all day on Wednesday (so they can complete the other half hour of diagnostics!) and will let you know of the outcome. Keith
  11. Update … After waiting for over a week to get a genuine Ford mass air flow sensor replacement, it was fitted yesterday and I still have the same fault. The fault code read by garage still points at the mass air flow sensor. They checked the wiring and pipes for leaks but everything seemed ok. The only thing they can suggest it to take it to Ford main dealer to hook it up to their diagnostic kit and see what it says. Will keep you posted… Keith
  12. Quick update. Took it to an independent (non-Ford) garage and they diagnosed Mass air flow sensor. They ordered a patented part and fitted it. The air filter was also changed as this was filthy (they said it could have been causing the air flow to be restricted in the first place, but of course the plug in diagnostic tool only pointed to the mass air flow sensor and nobody bothered checking the air filter). On the way home the car lost pulling power again when I attempted to overtake on a dual carriageway and after stopping shortly afterwards to re-set the engine limp home mode (switching the engine off and re-starting)the EML came on again. Phoned the garage next morning and went to get it re-diagnosed. Showed mass air flow sensor fault again (reading "above upper limits" when the car was reved according to his kit, not sure if that was the exact same reading as last time). Garage baffled but ordered original Ford manufactured part to see if that would fix the problem. Awaiting Garage to get Ford part... will keep you posted. PS I did have a thought it could be the EGR valve faulty, letting too much air through but have not suggested this to the garage as I would hope the Diagnostic tool would pick this up and they thought I was trying to tell them their job.
  13. Thank you very much for your reply. Here's an update The EML came on again and I did the dashboard trick but when I scrolled to DTC codes, it showed "none". The fault is now when I exceed approx 3000 rpm the engine stutters and then I have loss of power. It crawls up to 60 MPH but have to change down a gear on the slightest incline (can't get above 3000 rpm). The fault clears after I turn off the engine and restart until I exceed 3000 rpm again. (At least it's repeatable, unlike my last car (a Mazda), that had a intermittent fault, which the garage kept coming back with "no fault found") I will follow your advice and book it into a garage this time and investigate buying a code reader. Thanks again for your time, Keith
  14. Hello All, I am new to this board so please forgive me if this questions has been asked before. I have a 2007 Focus 1.8 TDCI with about 70K on the clock. I have owned it about two months and it's been fine. The other day it started but when I went to pull away it stalled. I thought it was just me being harsh with the clutch. Anyway it happened again later that day and then the engine management light came on every time it started. It was ok for a day or so and the EML when off. Then it felt a bit lumpy after another start and the EML was back on again. Next I parked for about an hour and when to start, it started ok but the engine revs would not increase when I pressed the pedal. In fact they dropped according to the rev counted ever so slightly (not enough to stall). I think this is what must have happened when I was trying to pull away on previous occasions. Can anyone please help with this problem?