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Budding Enthusiast
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About BHeart

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table
  • Birthday August 1

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  • Gender*
  • Ford Model
    Titanium X 5 Dr,1.0T 100PS Candy Blue
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  • Interests
    General Automotive

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  1. Hi Willy Thank you for your reply regarding restrictions with a car on PCP. That's great to know but I should have said that she has a MINI Cooper D but I'm hoping that your info is also good for her MINI??? With regard to the new '15 plate 5 Door Fiesta 1.0T Eco Boost Titanium X in Candy Blue that I purchased around the same time as you got your new Fiesta, I'm not sure if I mentioned it at the time but, because parking issues and a few of our 'so called' neighbours who would continually park right up to my bumpers, my lovely Fiesta was damaged twice. This was stressing me out so, around June last year, I sold it back to a main Ford Dealership and I do not have any car now. I'm continually looking at new cars and occasionally think of buying another but, we are still at the same address (41 years), so I'd only end up in the same position. To 'keep my hand in', on occasions, I still drive my wife's C4 Grand Picasso and my daughter's MINI Cooper.
  2. Hi all My daughters car is on a PCP and her first MOT is due towards the end of March, early April this year and I was wondering if, because of PCP restrictions, she has to have her car MOT'd by the main dealership who supplied the car or, can she have it MOT'd at an MOT station of her choice? Her car is also due for a brake fluid change, if we have it done, can this also be done by Formula 1? We normally use our local Formula 1 Auto Centre for MOT's, service, tyres and exhaust requirements and have always found them to provide an excellent service at a decent price.
  3. Hi Ian Great news! It was fuse 26 in the engine compartment fuse box. Before putting everything back together, I tried the mirrors and they worked as expected but, when I Iowered the drivers window, it was still snagging the wiring loom so I re routed the loom, it took 2 attempts but window operation is now fine. So, thank you very much my friend. With your help, a bit of perseverance from me and £3.63 for 2 x 7.5 amp fuses, my daughter can drive to Brighton safely tomorrow. Thanks again Ian Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Ford OC
  4. Hi Ian Thanks for your continued help. The loom runs directly from the base of the mirror and can be viewed as it passes the access hole normally covered by a large rubber grommet. It then runs down and out of the lower hole in the inner skin where it connects to the multi connector in the door - It's quite straight forward really but obviously something is not right. I understand what you mean by routing the loom around (forward of) the window channel because, if it was routed between the channels, it would snag up the glass when it was lowered but, as far as I can see, you can't actually see the window forward channel through either of the holes, to route the loom around it Or can you? I don't mind removing the mirror to check the whole of the loom but, I was thinking checking fuse 26 in the engine compartment and then replacing powerfold relays R2 & R3 - could it be the relays and if so, what do they normally cost? BTW, I hope you're enjoying you holiday in the sun? Karl46, thanks for the info Karl
  5. Hi Ian On holiday in the sun. Wow, lucky you! Thanks for taking the time out to try and help with this issue. :) With all of the members on here, you are the only one who has responded and you're on holiday. 34 years in the trade? so you really know your stuff then? The reason I asked "was it you" was because of what you said in your first reply, "wont tell you how I know"? Ok, I've just come back indoors from checking the fuse on the Fiesta (I'll get back to that in a minute) and then took off the door card and this is what I found: I disconnected loom that runs from the mirror to the connector in the door, I then pulled out the slack in the mirror cable from inside the door panel at the bottom hole, and I immediately noticed a definite fairly acute bending (like the bottom of the window glass had snagged the cable on it's way down, so that the cable was forced to ride up either side of the glass - as in a "V") that contains 8 wires and the insulation tape was torn at the point. I peeled back about eight (8) inches of the outer sleeve (about 4" either side of the "V" and bent the loom back into shape and checked each of the wires individually and there did not appear to be any breaks or cuts in the wires insulation. I then taped up the wires again and pulled the loom up through the top hole and checked the top end of the loom and felt it right up until it disappears through the outer door skin and into the base od the mirror and again, the loom and wires appeared to be ok. After checking that all connections were secure, I tried the windows and mirrors but no luck - the drivers window still would not go up or down and both mirrors remained folded into the car . As stated earlier, I checked fuse 25, the 30amp fuse that controls both power fold mirrors and I've not not seen a fuse like that before - it was sort of square shaped and I looked through the top of the fuse and on the left side, it looked like a small c/board but on the right, it looked like a blob of solder so, I'm not a 100% sure if that blown or not (should have taken a picture). So where does that leave us? It could be fuse 25 for the front power front windows (but the passenger front window is fine) if I've read it incorrectly or, one or both relays (R2 & R3) which are for the power fold mirrors. I've not checked Fuse 16 which covers the heated exterior mirror but I don't think that it could be that? The only other thing I can think of is that with the bottom of the window glass snagging the mirror loom on the way down, perhaps one or more of the 8 wires has been stretched to breaking point at the base of the mirror, or at the connection plug at the switch end but, insulation has not been broken. HELP!
  6. Hi again Ian I'd rather not remove the door card but, if I remember correctly, it's not difficult to remove it but I can't remember exactly what screws (torx and phillips?) needs to be removed and what tools are required - can you please refresh my memory? I think that the door open release and the grab handle and also the window winder handle need to come off? You mentioned 'one touch down' operation, I think maybe it did but I don't ever recall using it but, while that may account for my daughter reporting that the window would not go all the way down after I installed the new mirror, surely I would have noticed that when I owned the car? I seem to remember that "Nathan (Nath) out up a video on You tube? To recap and, remembering that both mirrors are now inoperative and the drivers mirror does not lower at all, so blown fuses are a possibility - she has mislaid the user manual but, I think that there are two fuse boxes, one on the left behind the glovebox and the other in the engine compartment so, which fuse box and the what fuses cover the mirrors and door windows, before removing the door car, what do you recommend I check first? You said that you had to put right someone else's install, was it you? lol
  7. Hi Ian I so much want your comments to be right but, I'm very methodical when doing things and I did take note of exactly how the cable was routed from the base of the mirror and down to the connector part way down inside the door. After disconnecting the multi connector from the lower end of the cable, I secured a bit of 'thin coat hanger wire' to the bottom of the cable and when I pulled the cable out, I connected the new cable and pulled it back through the same holes and reconnected it. After I completed the replacing the mirror, there's know doubt that something was preventing the door glass from going all the way down and whatever it was, it has now caused the failure and operation of both mirrors and the door window but, at the time, I failed to try the window operation so, I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on how to put this right. I'm intrigued by your comment, "won't tell how I know"?
  8. Hi I passed on my 2010 Fiesta Zetec to my daughter last November and a few months ago, a passing car damage the offside mirror so I replaced the complete mirror and, after refitting the door card I tested the operation of the new mirror and everything was working fine. Then a couple of weeks after my daughter reported that the drivers door window would only lower about three quarters of the way (so I'm obviously thinking that 'maybe', a cable or something that I moved has snagged the window when I first changed the mirror and it has now gotten worse) and I and, since then, she had not found the time to bring it round to me to check it out. Today, she came round for my birthday and informed me that the offside door window would not lower at all and, both mirrors are non operational. i.e. They heated and folding and do not fold out or in and the glass cannot be tilted so, she has been driving without mirrors which is obviously very unsafe. Ok, so that was a bit drawn out but, could it just be a matter of a blown fuses in both the mirrors and windows or does it require me to strip off the door card again to check for snagged cables? In either case: * What are the fuse numbers and which fuse box is it? * I need a refresher on what tools/screws I need to remove the door card again.
  9. Hi SNC Thanks for your reply. Have another look at my ad; I think I covered why I wanted to sell my car. Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Ford OC
  10. Hi all My car is for sale in the Club Cars for Sale section. If you are interested or know anyone who is, then please head over and have a look at my car. Thanks, bheart Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Ford OC
  11. Thanks for the info Mark. I'm assuming that, if installed, the battery for the 'extra alarm' system is smaller than the vehicles full size 12V battery? Where is the additional battery installed?
  12. Just been reading through the most current edition of the Fiesta Owners Manual valid for vehicles built from 12th January 2015 to 16th August 2015 and, under security, on page 41, it mentions a "Battery Back Up Sounder" which is an extra alarm system which has it's own battery. Are all new Fiesta's built from 12th January 2015 fitted this 'extra alarm' system or, is it just certain models? Battery Back-up Sounder The battery back-up sounder is an extra alarm system which will sound a siren when the alarm is triggered. When you lock your vehicle the system is armed. The sounder has its own battery and will sound an alarm siren even if someone disconnects your vehicle battery or the battery back-up sounder itself.
  13. Hi, I don't particularly want to connect an apple watch to my Fiesta; I was just wondering if the watch would try and connect and, if so, was it really necessary to have it connected? Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Ford OC
  14. I'm thinking of buying the Apple Watch which, as most people know, requires your iPhone to be present for full functionality but, I'm wondering if it needs to be connected to your Fiesta when your iPhone is already connected? There will obviously be other similar query's such as Bluetooth and does it need to be on in the car and I would welcome any input from members who already have the Apple Watch? Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Ford OC
  15. I've just checked my ford SatNav SD Card and I have the version 5 Original Ford sd card for NON touchscreen navigation SONY For cars from 2011 year Version map V5 ---- 2015 Europe maps UK and Ireland included Part no EM5T 19H449 DAC 7 612 105 870 My car was built on 31st January 2015 and I picked it up on 5th March; I believe that v5 is the latest version and I'm sure I've seen it on Ebay or Amazon. What's the difference between the above and the version uploaded by jayteepics below? Product Name: Western Europe SD Sat Nav (V4.1) Worm: sd2-FORD-MFD_E_WesternEurope_Sys-SW2253 v6 Bosch Part Number: 7 612 105 865 Ford Part Number: EM5T-19H449-DAB I have the Sony unit with DAB and i would have thought that I would have had the version as shown by jayteepics?