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About BHeart

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table
  • Birthday August 1

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  • Ford Model
    Titanium X 5 Dr,1.0T 100PS Candy Blue
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  • Interests
    General Automotive

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  1. Hi Ian Thanks for your reply. I close the bonnet exactly as you described in the first line of your reply and I tried this many times but the bonnet would not lock into place. As I also said, I think it may be something to do with the bonnet cable because when it would not lock, pulling the release from within the car, the release catch was floppy' and, where the cable terminates at the front of the bonnet, it was still connected but I was able to pull it out by about 4 inches and when I did that, I held the bonnet up about 12 inches and dropped it and, it locked into place. It appears to be working ok today but I'm wondering if there is a little slack in the cable which needs to be tightened up - do you know if the cable is secured at the bonnet pull end and, is there a screw/nut which can be loosened to take up any slack at the bonnet pull end? With regard to the engine management warning light coming on, I've checked the oil level and that's fine and the fuel flap is closing properly; I've had not replies to this problem so, unfortunately I'm taking it into Formula 1 tomorrow to have them run a diagnostics test to see what codes come up - a google search for the issue seems to suggest codes PO420 (cat system efficiency below threshold) and PO460 (fuel level sensor circuit malfunction) - but the fuel gauge on our Fiesta is working properly. I just hope it's not something that's not going to cost a fortunate?
  2. Hi all I've not been around for quite a while but needed to visit and login again because I have a couple of issues with our 2010 Fiesta Zetec 1.25 and I'd like some advice on please. First issue is the most important and it's to do with the 'engine management' warning light (resembling a small engine) which popped up yesterday whilst starting the car; it's orange and is not flashing and remains on whilst driving. I googled it and it seems that it has something to do with, the engine emissions control; advice was to check the oil level which I did and it's halfway between the bottom and top notches so I'm guessing that's fine. I also checked that the fuel flap was closed properly and after opening and closing it a few times, the warning light stayed on. Note: Until I returned from HGV driving in July 2014, we had this engine management warning light appear when we were doing our morning vehicle checks and when we reported it to our mechanic, he would say, "yeah that's ok, just keep an eye on it", and we would then go out on the road for a 9 hour day with no problems cropping up. Next morning, we might get the same vehicle again, and again, after reporting it, we would just go out on the road for the day. Well, that's as far as my expertise goes; can any members help me in diagnosing this issue and what I could do to get the light to disappear, before I take it a our local Formula 1branch? Second issue is with opening the bonnet, it opened ok but we then could not close is - it would not lock into place. I spayed some WD40 on the bits under the bonnet but it still would not close. When the bonnet release was pulled from the inside, it felt loose and was doing nothing; I though the cable may have snapped but, I located the end of the wire under the bonnet - it was still connected - and managed to pull it out about 3 inches and I was able to close the bonnet and then release it again from the inside - we did this at least three times so, maybe it's ok now? That's it for the moment but I would sure appreciate urgent help/advice with orange 'engine management' warning light please.
  3. Hi Willy Thank you for your reply regarding restrictions with a car on PCP. That's great to know but I should have said that she has a MINI Cooper D but I'm hoping that your info is also good for her MINI??? With regard to the new '15 plate 5 Door Fiesta 1.0T Eco Boost Titanium X in Candy Blue that I purchased around the same time as you got your new Fiesta, I'm not sure if I mentioned it at the time but, because parking issues and a few of our 'so called' neighbours who would continually park right up to my bumpers, my lovely Fiesta was damaged twice. This was stressing me out so, around June last year, I sold it back to a main Ford Dealership and I do not have any car now. I'm continually looking at new cars and occasionally think of buying another but, we are still at the same address (41 years), so I'd only end up in the same position. To 'keep my hand in', on occasions, I still drive my wife's C4 Grand Picasso and my daughter's MINI Cooper.
  4. Hi all My daughters car is on a PCP and her first MOT is due towards the end of March, early April this year and I was wondering if, because of PCP restrictions, she has to have her car MOT'd by the main dealership who supplied the car or, can she have it MOT'd at an MOT station of her choice? Her car is also due for a brake fluid change, if we have it done, can this also be done by Formula 1? We normally use our local Formula 1 Auto Centre for MOT's, service, tyres and exhaust requirements and have always found them to provide an excellent service at a decent price.
  5. Hi Ian Great news! It was fuse 26 in the engine compartment fuse box. Before putting everything back together, I tried the mirrors and they worked as expected but, when I Iowered the drivers window, it was still snagging the wiring loom so I re routed the loom, it took 2 attempts but window operation is now fine. So, thank you very much my friend. With your help, a bit of perseverance from me and £3.63 for 2 x 7.5 amp fuses, my daughter can drive to Brighton safely tomorrow. Thanks again Ian Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Ford OC
  6. Hi Ian Thanks for your continued help. The loom runs directly from the base of the mirror and can be viewed as it passes the access hole normally covered by a large rubber grommet. It then runs down and out of the lower hole in the inner skin where it connects to the multi connector in the door - It's quite straight forward really but obviously something is not right. I understand what you mean by routing the loom around (forward of) the window channel because, if it was routed between the channels, it would snag up the glass when it was lowered but, as far as I can see, you can't actually see the window forward channel through either of the holes, to route the loom around it Or can you? I don't mind removing the mirror to check the whole of the loom but, I was thinking checking fuse 26 in the engine compartment and then replacing powerfold relays R2 & R3 - could it be the relays and if so, what do they normally cost? BTW, I hope you're enjoying you holiday in the sun? Karl46, thanks for the info Karl
  7. Hi Ian On holiday in the sun. Wow, lucky you! Thanks for taking the time out to try and help with this issue. :) With all of the members on here, you are the only one who has responded and you're on holiday. 34 years in the trade? so you really know your stuff then? The reason I asked "was it you" was because of what you said in your first reply, "wont tell you how I know"? Ok, I've just come back indoors from checking the fuse on the Fiesta (I'll get back to that in a minute) and then took off the door card and this is what I found: I disconnected loom that runs from the mirror to the connector in the door, I then pulled out the slack in the mirror cable from inside the door panel at the bottom hole, and I immediately noticed a definite fairly acute bending (like the bottom of the window glass had snagged the cable on it's way down, so that the cable was forced to ride up either side of the glass - as in a "V") that contains 8 wires and the insulation tape was torn at the point. I peeled back about eight (8) inches of the outer sleeve (about 4" either side of the "V" and bent the loom back into shape and checked each of the wires individually and there did not appear to be any breaks or cuts in the wires insulation. I then taped up the wires again and pulled the loom up through the top hole and checked the top end of the loom and felt it right up until it disappears through the outer door skin and into the base od the mirror and again, the loom and wires appeared to be ok. After checking that all connections were secure, I tried the windows and mirrors but no luck - the drivers window still would not go up or down and both mirrors remained folded into the car . As stated earlier, I checked fuse 25, the 30amp fuse that controls both power fold mirrors and I've not not seen a fuse like that before - it was sort of square shaped and I looked through the top of the fuse and on the left side, it looked like a small c/board but on the right, it looked like a blob of solder so, I'm not a 100% sure if that blown or not (should have taken a picture). So where does that leave us? It could be fuse 25 for the front power front windows (but the passenger front window is fine) if I've read it incorrectly or, one or both relays (R2 & R3) which are for the power fold mirrors. I've not checked Fuse 16 which covers the heated exterior mirror but I don't think that it could be that? The only other thing I can think of is that with the bottom of the window glass snagging the mirror loom on the way down, perhaps one or more of the 8 wires has been stretched to breaking point at the base of the mirror, or at the connection plug at the switch end but, insulation has not been broken. HELP!
  8. Hi again Ian I'd rather not remove the door card but, if I remember correctly, it's not difficult to remove it but I can't remember exactly what screws (torx and phillips?) needs to be removed and what tools are required - can you please refresh my memory? I think that the door open release and the grab handle and also the window winder handle need to come off? You mentioned 'one touch down' operation, I think maybe it did but I don't ever recall using it but, while that may account for my daughter reporting that the window would not go all the way down after I installed the new mirror, surely I would have noticed that when I owned the car? I seem to remember that "Nathan (Nath) out up a video on You tube? To recap and, remembering that both mirrors are now inoperative and the drivers mirror does not lower at all, so blown fuses are a possibility - she has mislaid the user manual but, I think that there are two fuse boxes, one on the left behind the glovebox and the other in the engine compartment so, which fuse box and the what fuses cover the mirrors and door windows, before removing the door car, what do you recommend I check first? You said that you had to put right someone else's install, was it you? lol
  9. Hi Ian I so much want your comments to be right but, I'm very methodical when doing things and I did take note of exactly how the cable was routed from the base of the mirror and down to the connector part way down inside the door. After disconnecting the multi connector from the lower end of the cable, I secured a bit of 'thin coat hanger wire' to the bottom of the cable and when I pulled the cable out, I connected the new cable and pulled it back through the same holes and reconnected it. After I completed the replacing the mirror, there's know doubt that something was preventing the door glass from going all the way down and whatever it was, it has now caused the failure and operation of both mirrors and the door window but, at the time, I failed to try the window operation so, I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on how to put this right. I'm intrigued by your comment, "won't tell how I know"?
  10. Hi I passed on my 2010 Fiesta Zetec to my daughter last November and a few months ago, a passing car damage the offside mirror so I replaced the complete mirror and, after refitting the door card I tested the operation of the new mirror and everything was working fine. Then a couple of weeks after my daughter reported that the drivers door window would only lower about three quarters of the way (so I'm obviously thinking that 'maybe', a cable or something that I moved has snagged the window when I first changed the mirror and it has now gotten worse) and I and, since then, she had not found the time to bring it round to me to check it out. Today, she came round for my birthday and informed me that the offside door window would not lower at all and, both mirrors are non operational. i.e. They heated and folding and do not fold out or in and the glass cannot be tilted so, she has been driving without mirrors which is obviously very unsafe. Ok, so that was a bit drawn out but, could it just be a matter of a blown fuses in both the mirrors and windows or does it require me to strip off the door card again to check for snagged cables? In either case: * What are the fuse numbers and which fuse box is it? * I need a refresher on what tools/screws I need to remove the door card again.
  11. Hi SNC Thanks for your reply. Have another look at my ad; I think I covered why I wanted to sell my car. Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Ford OC
  12. Hi all My car is for sale in the Club Cars for Sale section. If you are interested or know anyone who is, then please head over and have a look at my car. Thanks, bheart Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Ford OC
  13. Thanks for the info Mark. I'm assuming that, if installed, the battery for the 'extra alarm' system is smaller than the vehicles full size 12V battery? Where is the additional battery installed?
  14. Just been reading through the most current edition of the Fiesta Owners Manual valid for vehicles built from 12th January 2015 to 16th August 2015 and, under security, on page 41, it mentions a "Battery Back Up Sounder" which is an extra alarm system which has it's own battery. Are all new Fiesta's built from 12th January 2015 fitted this 'extra alarm' system or, is it just certain models? Battery Back-up Sounder The battery back-up sounder is an extra alarm system which will sound a siren when the alarm is triggered. When you lock your vehicle the system is armed. The sounder has its own battery and will sound an alarm siren even if someone disconnects your vehicle battery or the battery back-up sounder itself.
  15. Hi, I don't particularly want to connect an apple watch to my Fiesta; I was just wondering if the watch would try and connect and, if so, was it really necessary to have it connected? Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Ford OC