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Amp

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    14
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Amp

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Louis

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Mk6 Fiesta ST
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Essex
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Southend, Essex
  1. Morning all, I have a 2003 Mk6 fiesta, the steering lock has stopped working for no apparent reason. It seems that the key hole shield is not returning when the key is removed. I have taken the ignition lock cylinder out of the column but not disassembled it as I didn't fancy playing with the tumblers just yet! When the key is removed, the shield does not move unless I push it upwards manually from the reverse (when not fitted obviously). Has anyone experience this before etc, is it likely to be a new lock or may the column be at fault? Cheers!
  2. That is all that holds it inplace so I would say be more forceful with it when you come to replace it! The hoses can be awkward to remove though so may be worth taking a selection of pliers/hose pliers if you have them?
  3. Rather than starting a new topic I thought I would try posting on here as it may help someone later. I have fitted a similar unit, albeit the DAB version, to a 2006 Fiesta and I now have the issue of the stereo draining the battery. I have had a google and I am not the only one, but I haven't seen a solution (aside from a seperate switch for this which I do not want to do). I did not modify the original wiring harness, bar adding an auxiliary input wiring harness. I measured the current at the fusebox with the car locked and it was 0.61Amps, which has previously drained my battery as you can imagine. I waited 8 minutes this time monitoring the current which was constant, but when I park the car the clock and orange backlight stays on. There were a few other current draws which were minimal in comparison which is why I would attribute my issue to this. Does anyone know if there is any settings etc which can be modified to bypass this? Rather than just pulling the fuse out every time etc. I imagine a software update would be unfeasible due to the mismatch of components on the car? Any help would be greatly received!
  4. You can check the terminals behind the A-pillar trims for damage, there should be a 10mm bolt holding the earth terminal at the top, and a blade connector at the bottom if I recall correctly. You could also measure resistance in the screen on each side to see if you have an open circuit indicating failure of the heating elements. If there is no visual damage but an open circuit, then I imagine replacment is the only option.
  5. I removed mine yesterday! On the rear, there is a plastic bracket bolted to the rear of the radio radio which "slides" over a piece of the plastic moulding on the dashboard under the radio. It should just pull out, give it a wiggle! Once I removed all 4 screws, mine came straight out. It's a bit strange that it stopped working since you attempted removal, is there any chance you've blown a fuse or something? I recall reading there is a way to obtain the serial number without removing the radio, something similar to holding "1" and "6" down at the same time, may be worth a search if you get it working again?
  6. If you do need a GEM, pm me, I kept my old one that I removed when I fitted RCL which is redundant (depends on your car specification of course).
  7. You can re-use the pre-tensioners from your current seats if the new ones do not come with them. Please read into the procedure for removing the pre-tensioners, i.e. disconnecting the battery for around 30 minutes (I think it doesn't have to be that long, but have a search first) if you like having fingers!
  8. It is riveted on yes and you'll have to drill them out. You don't "have" to put them back in, but it is advisable! You may get away with a screw/captive nut but I am of the thought that if it came as a rivet, it should be. I believe you also need to remove the rear fittings on the arch liner to gain access to the fixings there.
  9. Key

    If you put your key in the ignition barrel, turn the ignition on and off 6 times quickly (it may be 5, but 6 won't hurt). If you hear an audible tone from under the dash, then your GEM is remote central locking compatible, in which case you can source a remote key, get it coded to start the car and then your ready! If there isn't a tone, then the GEM is not configured for central locking. If you don't mind a seperate fob, the easiest (and cheapest) way is to swap the GEM for a suitable replacement, and just programme a fob yourself, or Ford may be able to encode your GEM for you (I swapped my GEM as it was cheaper) to enable remote central locking.
  10. Thanks for that Stoney, I stripped from a Mk7 fiesta the aerial cable which has the twin Fakra connector, which is a simple 'plug & play'. Would anyone benefit from me writing up a 'guide' for installation? I also got the auxiliary/USB loom. I have the aux working through the stereo now using the quadlock connector (thanks to JustCONNECT too for that)! Has anyone ever managed to get USB to work on the standard unit (without the connects2 kit)? I.e is it similar to the aux wherein I can connect it to the quadlock? I would like to be able to skip tracks, but not sure if the Sony unit is capable of this! From the donor car, I also got the Bluetooth/VC/USB module which I understand you need if converting a Mk7, but I haven't seen it done on a Mk6? Failing that, anyone want to buy a module? :p For the record, I have access to IDS if required. Thanks!
  11. Incidentally, for Ford to supply and cut the blade you require is around £6, I had this done on thursday! You will need a fob still, and then it to be coded. Once you have two working keys, you should be able to code more yourself to start the vehicle. If you purchase a key from someone other than Ford, be sure it is the correct type, i.e. glass or carbon transponder as they are not all compatible. If it is like mine (2006 ST as well), they are the carbon transponder style.
  12. Hello, I have read that one before yes, basing it upon Stoneys comment (below), I should be ok? Mine is not the Audiophile version (and is an 18C939) so it should have the built in amplifier which was Cragrats problem? For the record, I am trying to fit it to a Fiesta rather than a Focus, although I assume the differences are negligible. If I plug the quadlock connector in everything works on it, although I have no signal obviously. The dealer said the cable I require is a single item, but from my searching on here it seems the one I require is a two piece so I am slightly skeptical, I may just order it and see!
  13. You can programme another key which will unlock the vehicle yourself yes, but it will not start the car. If you want it to start, then i'm afraid you'll have to get it coded! The coding itself does not take long, so if you had the spare key already and had it cut ready to go, then the price Ford want to code it may be less expensive than asking them to supply and code a brand new key?
  14. Good afternoon all, Sorry if this is the wrong section but as it is a mis-match of components I thought it was best to put it in the general section, please move it if this is wrong! I am trying to retro-fit a Sony DAB radio into a Mk6 (facelift fiesta). I have a CD345 - MCA Sony DAB unit, part number BS7T-18C939, I also have the antenna base and antenna, the aerial cable itself I am still to order as it is a twin fakra and not the usual fakra/ISO that seems to be most common! My question relates to the auxilliary input; has anyone fitted this unit and connected up an auxilliary input for it (USB/3.5mm jack)? If so, is it a seperate port on the rear of the unit (as per the standard 6CD unit), or part of the quadlock connector? If the former, then I do not have this so am stuck! I have done quite a lot of reading on here/ford wiki etc but cannot find a clear definitive solution. I have tried to look at the wiring diagrams, but not knowing 100% where the stereo came from means the diagram from ETIS may be incorrect for my use, and I don't fancy "trial and error" on the expensive unit! Thanks!