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Budding Enthusiast
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About edenboy-ragit

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  1. hi. it stops the fuel going to the engine. not sure where it does this in the system. 1st check fuel pump is pumping from the fuel tank dont just rely on the noise it makes phisicly check there is a flow of petrol. 2nd check the fuel lines. 3rd assuming you have multi point injection then check pipe prior to the injector rail for flow of fuel. if you dont have fuel flow at fuel tank pump then check- fuel pump, fuel pump relay, wiring or immobiliser? check the fuel pipes. i do prefur to find wherethe pipe leads to from the fuel tank ie injector rail, disconnect both sides and blow hard through the pipe. check for blockages. make sure lines arnt crimped at all or damaged. if you are already getting fuel to the fuel rail the i would check the fuel rail and injectors. if you can do these checks and let me know where its stopping the fuel come out from i can help you problem solve abit more. otherwise kinda !Removed! into the wind. cheers lee
  2. Well sounds like the common aux belt tensioner to me. Well know for going slack and causing alot of noise on mondeos would check this out 1st as more likely to be the problem. Cheers lee
  3. Yes i did mk2 mondeo my immobiliser nakered. If remember correctly there is a certain way to turn the key so it flashes a fault code at you. Basically my key had been dropped too many times and needed fully replacing. Sounds like immobiliser to me mate but reasurch the fault code way of doing it it should help out as it did for me. Good luck let me know how it goes.
  4. Really. No replies yet. Would really appreciate some thoughts here
  5. hi all. ill give ya alot of detail about the situation so this will probably be a long essay!! i have a 2006 ford mondeo 2lt tdci. a previous taxi car. had 1 previous owner 125k ok the clock. now the engine was changed at 75k miles from a 115 to a 130 (i checked with the garage) the bloke had quite a few problems prior to me buying and i brought cheap as it had flashing g-plug light. since i brought it i had a new battery, then i stripped the turbo actuator cleaned and re-fitted, then i had all 4 injectors reconditioned, (all of this was done whilst it sat in my garden) finally took it for mot where it passed. on way back it kept going limp home mode, done a leak off test and one of the recon injectors was faulty, sent it back got one on warrentee, put it in had it coded and car didnt run properly straight away with a specific fault codeforthe injector i just replaced. sent it back once again to be told it looks like a faulty repair. another one back and again recode. so injectors been already annoying me!! car runs fine but every now and again it goes limp home mode or just suddenly cuts out without warning. changed fuel filter (with injectors) with a ford part. changed leak off pipes, changed crank and cam shaft sensor. now this has been a long process as its been sitting for 10 months now with being only driven for testing to see if its fixed! upon test drive today i noticed it drove great for 10 miles then i got a straight and floored it. limp home mode and cut out, started up again(always clears the problem for awile) carried on 2miles later on another straight done the same, started again and it drove me the 7 miles home (not booting it) so appears to do it whilst flooring or just after, doesnt allways happen. also always P0251 fault code ALSO!! whilst driving in any gear as i let the engine slow me down it judders quite abit?? same problem?? something else?? ive got to be honest it sounds typical injector fault but its hard to belive as ive spent about £600 on injectors within the last 100 miles!!! so before i get bombarded with 'INJECTOR FAULT' i would like to know what other possabilitys there are. my train of thought is: 1) fuel rail pressure sensor 2) turbo actuator playing up 3)damaged wiring 4) faulty injector 5) fuel pump (hoping and praying its not) if there could be another fault im missing please let me know. also could someone let me know what simptoms i will get if i.e the fuel rail sensor has actually damaged. on a brighter note ifsomeone wishes to purchase this car with the fault then i may be interested (although this is not a advert to sell the car if anyone is interested please let me know and ill put up an offical advert for the car ok) many thanks lee
  6. hiya all. right about a week ago my car started to realy smoke on start up then itll go when im driving. it used to smoke alittle but now its alot. i had my mate follow me the other day and he informs me that the car still smokes when i drive along white/blue smoke!!! TURBO!!!! BUGGA!! ive got the 2.0 tdci 130 mondeo on 03 plate. now as being someone who like BHP!! i would like to upgrade but cannot find anything out about it!! im thinking it will be possible but what turbo and where can i purchase a fuel sucking monster (or if not avalible a turbo)?? im thinking a mondeo st turbo may increase abit but ill want more!! any advice?? or i could just replace it with a (yawn) standard one??? any help would be good cheers lee
  7. ya i get this. quite annoying. i basicly blinded my mate yesterday when i was behind him. supose just got to get used to the design!!
  8. you can only change the rim size of the tyre if you are changine the wheels as well!! you cannot fit 18' tyres to 17' rims. but upgrading the width i dont see any problem with!! that sort of width size you have is quite large, 245 ones wont be much bigger. i dont have a 2009 mondeo and so i do not know if that size would rub or anything.
  9. iv fount these do i just remove the green led and fit a blue one?? do i need to fit the resistor or im guessing i wont as led's are already fitted?? cheers
  10. im in the process of purchasing some bulbs to change the colour of the interier bulbs from green to blue. like the last photo from this site ive got the 'how to' for the speedo and brought the bulbs: 'New 10 lots T5 286 1.2w Blue Dashboard LED wedge bulbs' and '10 T1O 501 W5W Blue LED Side Wedge Light Bulb Lamp 12V' (title of the bulbs i brought through ebay) 1st off are these the correct bulbs (i done abit of reasurch and i belive these are but just wanted to check) other than rthat the speedo doesnt consern me, its the electric window buttons, the heater controls, clock, etc etc that i need advice on. 1st off what do i need? i removed the headlight switch and dismantled abit to just about see about 7ish green leds. do i buy blue leds and need to 'un solder' the old led's then re-solder the new ones?? also im not a novice but i havnt looked how to remove the window buttons or the clock etc. is there anything im going to need to know before i dive in?? cheers lee
  11. well yes anyone can say someware is expensive blah blah etc and fitting yourself is cheeper. but as i said the fact is if you do not know how to fit these parts yourself and so they are safe 2 use the vehicle then you will have to go someware to pay for the work to be done. and for what you get: quality wormanship, garantee on the parts and workmanship and free pads for the life you own your vehicle. you basicly get a good package for the price and a peice of mind that your brakes have been fitted by someone fully trained to do soo. and yes there prices are alittle steep but i dont know prices from other places to compair with. but would you rather pay £100 for the pads and discs and have someone not able to fit them properly and possably cause brake failier, or would you rather pay abit extra to know your car is going to stop when you need it too?? (same as before im on neither side) but also i do know kwikfit's rep is abit damaged but thats because people sit on sites like this slatting companys (kwikfit being the biggest = more complains) you dont get the thousands of people each day sitting here saying what a great visit they had etc. so bad rep spreads quicker than good!!! in other words take a think about it and sum up whether you would rather kwikfit do the work or a 'cowboy' for the benifits?? cheers lee
  12. sure you could use them but then youve gotta wait for them to be posted. if your like me just get stuck in and rip the thing out!! lol
  13. i belive the thin strips at ever corner is your way in. obviously ford would kindly take your money in exchange for 4 thin bits of metal. but theres always ways around this. if you find 4 strips of metal/plastic etc alittle bit smaller than the size of the holes then you may have a chance to remove it. make sure the strips are of about 5 inches in lenght so you can still grip them and they should release the clips holding the sterio in. once these are in place the sterio should just slide out. it is very simple its just finding the right tools for the job.
  14. just had a read of this topic. as a kwikfit employee. i can tell you we use bosch pads and discs, which in my opinion considering the price is fairly reasonable. they arnt the cheepest, but also not the most expensive. basicly they do the job there ment to for the common driver. as for the price that sounds the same as if i was to get mine done there (but obviously i do mine myself) if your incapable of fitting parts like this yourself the best thing to do is go to a garage to get the work done. and so it possably is a reasonable price. this said i do not side with kwik fit or against them. just my own opinion
  15. ive just brought a tdci the day before yesterday and i have a simila noise. but the person (seamed quite honest) told me that a belt needed changing and also included it with sale. the noise you might be hearing though could be down to general diesel engine noise! sorry i cant be much help other than that. lee