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Colin T

Budding Enthusiast
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About Colin T

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  • Ford Model Focus 1.8 Zetec
  1. Cambelt - Timing Belt

    Is there any way that you can tell the age of a cambelt by visual inspection? What visual clues to assess the condition of the cambelt would you look for when 'taking a look' at the timing belt? Relative of previous owner told me that the cambelt was replaced April 2010, but no paperwork. In view of the 'strange smell' that I'm getting inside my car, I was concerned about cam belt & aux drive belt 'rubbing' on something. Visual check under bonnet, aux belt looks OK, but on taking a sneaky look under the black plastic cover at the top left of engine, over the cam belt, I can see the cam belt looks 'old' Flat side of cam belt looks like its 'scrubbed' like it's been rubbing ' wearing against something?? No smell but now I'm concerned about the cambelt condition
  2. Strange Smell Inside Car

    The smell is just like 'Araldite glue' Nothing done to the exhaust, only thing that has happened recently: 28th Feb: 2 New tyres fitted to the rear of the car, by National Tyres (I drove car into & out of tyre bay) 24th Feb: clean washer pump filter, I had to remove the front left inner wheel arch (refilled with usual washer additive)
  3. Strange Smell Inside Car

    Recently, about the past 1 week or so, I've been getting an occasional 'funny smell' inside my car (MK1 Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec) The smell is like the smell of 'araldite glue' or 'bodyfiller' The occasions when this smell occurs appears to be consistent with 'stopping the car' and so far I've noticed the smell at the following times, but not always?? Reversing into my driveway, after pulling up and stopping outside my house Pulling up at a roundabout Previously, on or around other cars I've smelt 'hot brakes' or clutch burn and this doesn't smell like that kind of smell?? When this happens at home I get out of the car and 'sniff around' to see if I can smell where it's coming from, no joy so far! I've checked under the bonnet - no smell I've checked the wheel arches - no smell or 'heat' from the brakes I've even briefly sniffed near the 'exhaust' - no smell (only normal car fumes) Any ideas appreciated, hopefully I can find the source of this smell before something breaks or burns out!! Thanks
  4. Tyres And Speed Rating

    I finally got an answer from my car insurance company (AA Insurance Services, policy with Groupama) The AA had to put this forward to the underwriters, Groupama, who say they are happy with the tyre size and speed rating fitted to my car and gave the following response: I must ensure that the tyre size are correct, 195/60 R15 and that either speed rating, H or V are acceptable. AA Insurance Services have noted this on their system against my insurance policy. So I don't need to change my Avon ZV3 tyres I'm about to get my 2 rear tyres replaced, having got a fully fitted price of £114 from AA Tyres for the following tyre: BARUM BAR BRAVURIS 2 88V 195/60VR15 V I've paid online for these and booked a fitting date / time slot (choice of either am or pm) with the fitting center, National Tyres in Ipswich. Buying online and through AA Tyres saved almost £16 off the price shown on the same tyre selection on National Tyres own website.
  5. This appears to be a common problem on Ford Focus and recently my front & rear washer stopped working. The washer pump was working but only a small trickle of water from the washer jets. The washer pump was making a higher pitch noise and slightly louder than normal, a similar noise to when the washer bottle has run out of water. The washer bottle was full as I has filled it thinking that it was empty! After reading various post about this problem, my Focus washer problem was giving the symptoms of a blocked filter that was stopping the flow of water to the windscreen washer pump This filter is part of the rubber grommet that provides the fitting for the washer pump to the washer bottle. I took a look at the Haynes manual which gives a procedure for removal of the washer bottle something like this (remember to take the usual safety precautions when jacking up the car & removing road wheels): Remove the nearside (left) front wheel Remove the inner wheel arch liner (black plastic cover) Remove 3 bolts that are securing the washer bottle Remove the washer pump from the washer bottle As soon as I had the front of the car jacked up in preparation for removal of the front wheel, it became apparent that there may be enough room to remove the inner arch liner without removing the wheel. There are 6 bolts (torx head) securing the inner arch cover, I used an allen key to remove these. I found it quite easy to remove the inner wheel arch liner with the wheel in place. I removed the 2 bolts that hold the washer bottle in place, which allowed it to pivot down to a position where the washer pump was accessible. It was easy to pull the washer pump out of its rubber grommet fixing that attaches it to the washer bottle. With the pump removed NO water came out, this was a good indication that it was definitely a blockage of the filter that had stopped both the front & rear my washers working. At this point I could have just pulled out the black rubber grommet and clean away the black gunge that was blocking the filter, but the washer bottle looked very dirty on the inside and I didn't want the blockage to happen again if I had just cleaned the filter and refitted it. I decided to remove the washer bottle and give it a clean. At this point I removed the wheel to allow access and room to remove the washer bottle. The remaining bolt that held the washer bottle in place is fixed to the washer filler tube, inside the engine bay. When all 3 bolts are removed from the washer bottle, the only thing holding the washer bottle in place is the filler tube part, this is a separate short tube that is held, quite firmly, by a rubber grommet at the top of the washer bottle. A couple of twists and pulls will separate the filler tube and washer bottle. With these removed, I was able to clean the black gunge from inside the washer bottle. All items cleaned and then refitted. Washer bottle filled and washers now working.
  6. Tyres And Speed Rating

    Can somebody help with the following? I need 2 new tyres for the rear of my Focus as they are down to 2mm. I noticed that the existing rear tyres are H speed rated but the tyres on the front of the car are V speed rated. I called the local Ford garage who told me that I should have V speed rated tyres fitted. Car = MK 1 Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec Petrol X reg year 2000 Front Tyres 7mm tread = Avon ZV3 Tyre 195/60 15 H Rear Tyres 2 mm tread = Goodyear 195/60 15 V What is the legal position regarding speed rating for the tyres fitted to cars? Do I need to change all 4 tyres? Thanks
  7. Creaking Noise

    I would suggest getting it checked by garage immediately as anything connected with the front wheels could be brakes, suspension or steering related and if anything goes wrong with any of these its a serious safety issue. My local Ford garage had a quick look at my car with similar problem, no charge for looking and booked the car in for a repair next day.....see below I had similar creaking noise from front left, first noticed when going over small bumps in road at 15 - 20 mph Then noticed that it was more noticeable when turning the steering when parking the car. This turned out to be worn / broken joint on front suspension drop link. Ford garage had this fixed for me in 30 minutes at a cost of about £80
  8. Poor Starting

    I know that my car is a Focus + Petrol but the problem / symptom sounds exactly the same as my car. Essentially my problem was caused by a failing battery which was starting the car and immediately stopping, in my opinion I think this may have been due to the alternator which would have been under heavy load trying to charge the dying battery, the Ford Smart Charging System makes the alternator work very hard when starting a cold engine. I did some checks on my battery and found fault code showing low battery, a new Ford Silver Calcium battery has fixed my starting problem. See my post here: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18526&view=getnewpost&hl=&fromsearch=1
  9. Starts Then Stops

    During the past 2 to 3 weeks my Focus Zetec 1.8 petrol has been showing some unusual starting problems when starting with cold engine. On turning the key, engine would turn over and fired up then instantly stop. Note, the engine turned over as normal and did not give the usual 'dead battery' symptom of slow or not turning over. This is what I found and the cure. Checked the instrument panel for DTC fault codes (Focus Dashboard Secret (Trick)) Found dtc fault code 9318 fault code = 'Low Battery Voltage' Used multimeter to measure 'Battery Voltage' with engine off = 12.2 Vdc Used multimeter to measure 'Battery Voltage' with engine running = 14.9 Vdc Visual check of battery indicator window = RED (battery discharged or failing) After finding these symptoms I purchased a Silver Calcium battery from local Ford dealership (25% discount made it competitive price) Fitted the new battery and checked the voltage engine off 12.6 Vdc and engine running 14.0 Vdc Now the car starts perfectly with cold engine. This may have also 'reset' the Engine Management Computer as the fuel consumption appears to be improved, previously was going from full to empty in about 320 miles. My latest petrol fill up is down to 1/4 tank after 300 miles, so I'm expecting 400 + miles on this tank of petrol.
  10. Water Drip

    I would warn against tasting any liquid found under the car because if its from a coolant leak, it could be poisonous as Anti Freeze is TOXIC. Recently I had some trouble with a coolant leak, which occasionally left a small puddle of liquid underneath the car where it had dripped from the thermostat housing then down onto the gearbox and finally dripping onto the concrete driveway. The small puddle was only about 3 inches across, so the amount of liquid lost was too small to notice a change to the level in the coolant reservoir. I could see that there was a pink tinge to it which gave an added clue to its origin. I fixed my coolant leak by fitting new seals to the thermostat housing, replacing the thermostat seal first, which was quite easy, then after noticing there was still a leak, I replaced the seal between the engine block + thermostat housing, to do this I drained the engine coolant into a plastic container using the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator, then I removed the 3 bolts and gently pulled the thermostat housing with its pipework still connected and was able to remove the old seal + clean up the surfaces + fit new seal + carefully position thermostat housing back into position then refit 3 bolts. NOTE: tightening the 3 bolts needs to be done with care as these bolts are going into the aluminium cylinder head and if overtightened could strip the threads in the cylinder head. This appears to have fixed my coolant leak, no more puddles and engine coolant level not going down any more.
  11. 3 Times Fuel Consumption - Please Help!!

    The radiator fans are switched on by a combination of temperature sensor + engine management system. When the engine gets hot + the coolant temperature rises above a certain level the cooling fans will be switched on. You will usually notice the fans may come on if the engine has been running and reached full operating temperature + the car is stationary or when the car is slow moving in traffic. What does your temperature gauge show when the engine has been running / warmed up / during normal driving? Is your engine coolant level OK? If its too low, VERY low, there is a possibility that the temp sensor may not be sending the correct signal to the engine management system. This could have the effect of the engine management system thinking the engine is cold / cool and supplying too much fuel??
  12. 3 Times Fuel Consumption - Please Help!!

    Was the ELM327 device used whilst the car was being driven or in a workshop? If it was in the garage or workshop, the car wouldn't have been under load, whereas under normal driving your engine will be under load and any misfire is likely to occur under load conditions, sometimes a slight misfire may not be noticeable? HT leads are carrying about 50,000 volts to your spark plugs and you cant judge their condition just by looking. I would recommend changing the HT leads at least every 3 or 4 years
  13. 3 Times Fuel Consumption - Please Help!!

    I would try new HT leads, not too expensive and if they are the originals they are going to be almost 12 years old and could be the cause of the problem?
  14. Thinking Of Buying A Mk1 Focus

    Coolant leaks from cracked thermostat housing on Zetec engines, be cautious as the owner may have then topped up coolant repeatedly with water with the consequence of diluting the anti-freeze, which as a result decreases the anti-corrosion properties, which can cause th head gasket to corrode and lead to head gasket failure. I had experience of this with a Zetec engine on Mondeo.
  15. Noises From Under Front Of Car

    Next day, this noise became much worse and was most evident when steering the car, sounded like wheel was going to come off. Local independent garage was too busy and couldn't look at the car until Saturday. I had to get the car booked into local Ford garage for an urgent fix. After their initial check it was found to be a 'broken' near side front suspension link rod!! Cost about £90 to get fixed, new link rod + labour + vat Car is much quieter and I feel a bit more reassured.