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Tony Nash

Budding Enthusiast
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About Tony Nash

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    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.6 TDCI 2005
  1. Ok, so here is an update on the Focus relating to the P024A/B/F fault codes - hopefully this will help someone else out in the future........ The P024 faults all relate to the assembly highlighted in the picture below (I'm not sure what the technical term for it is but it seems to regulate the mix of air from the intercooler & EGR system back into the turbo). It is made up of a manifold, 2 flaps and 2 electric motors. The motors open and close the flaps regulating the amount of air flowing from each of the pipes. Here is a close up of the assembly. To remove it you need to undo the 3 jubilee clips - red arrows (1 of them is under the unit coming from the intercooler). Unplug the 5 multi plugs - green arrows. There are 2 bolts holding the unit onto the engine block - one is on the left hand side and is easy to see, the other is at the front of the car and is under the air con pipework. Remove both of these, then remove the unit by pulling up and away from the pipework. When you have the unit on the bench you can see the 2 flaps and can test their operation by pushing on the flap. They should be free moving and spring shut. (Sorry didn't take any pictures of this) When I removed mine the smaller of the 2 flaps was stuck shut. I slackened off the bolts holding the motor onto the manifold and it allowed the flap to move. However when it tightened the motor bolts the flap stuck again. I ended up adjusting the position of the flap on the motor shaft by slackening off the 2 torx bolts that held it in place and adjusting it until it moved freely. Whilst I had the unit off I gave it a good clean out (it wasn't too bad but I thought whilst it is off.....) Only bit to watch is there is a sensor in one of the openings of the manifold (its the one connected to the green multiplug in the picture above) so be careful when cleaning near this. As the Haynes manual says refitting is the reverse of removal. I cleared the fault codes stored and turned off the engine management light using the software I have on my laptop and took the car for a run. So far no fault codes, no engine light, no smoke and no hesitation. After this success I have also fitted an EGR blaking plate and cleaned the MAF sensor. I've done all these fixes/changes in stages and test run the car at each change so I am confident that each are making an improvement. The car is now back in general service and completed the 20mile hack to work this morning without any issue. The MPG has increased considerably as well. It was reading 36mpg after half a tank and this has risen to 41mpg after just 20miles extra driving (it's never been great but I have always put this down to it being a high mileage car (137k) but perhaps it has been down to a gradual failure of these components - who knows!!. Tony
  2. Thanks for the reply IINexusII I had the valve off on Tuesday night and gave it a good clean then and to be honest there wasn't much carbon build up on it, no sludge as I've see on pictures of other EGR's. I'll order a plate off eBay as it's only a couple of quid for a stainless steel one and if it doesn't work I haven't lost too much. Is there any way of testing the operation of the valve when it is off the car?
  3. Had a bit of a brain !Removed! last night, if the EGR valve is faulty and the cause of the trouble, could I fit an EGR blanking plate to eliminate the EGR valve from the system? I know it would still bring up the fault in the ECU but if the physical fault of poor running is cleared up it would confirm the EGR valve being at faulty then I could replace it. Does this seem logical? It seems a cheaper way rather than £120 for an EGR valve only to find out it doesn't clear the problem. Also a friend of mine said the symptoms sound like it could be the MAF sensor (he had the same symptoms on his VW Passat). Does this seem reasonable?
  4. If the EGR valve is replaced with a new one does the ECU need to be reprogrammed or is it plug and play? How would I tell if the current EGR is stuck when I've got it off the car? Can the body and soilenoid be seperated so it can be fully cleaned? I only cleaned the ports of the EGR valve when I removed it earlier in the week. Could the EGR cooler be blocked? Would this give the same fault codes as EGR buggered???
  5. Hi All, I'm hoping that someone on here might be able to help as I am pulling my hair out. On Monday night I was driving my 2005 1.6TDCI Focus home from work - about 20 miles with the majority on the motorways - just as I cam off the motorway I lost all power and the car started to belch out black smoke from the exhaust and the engine management light came on. I managed to get it onto the hard shoulder and stop. As soon as I tried to accelerate again the acceleration was very jerky and then it sorted itself out (probably due to slower speeds on residential roads). Anyway I managed to get it home and put the fault code reader on it (ELM 327 and easyODB2 on my laptop). The faults recorded were P024F Stored and P024F from last cycle. I looked these up on various internet sites but nothing conclusive - air bypass valve position sensor circuit high input seems to be the definition but no soultion. Some sites were mentioning the EGR valve so I removed and cleaned this (wasn't too bad as I had it cleaned a while back). Cleared the fault code and the engine management light and too it for a spin - no lurching or smoke but the acceleration was a little hesitant at low revs. Next day the problem is back again (the other half was driving so I wasn't very popular). I took it down to my local garage on Wednesday morning and got the same fault, infact it was so bad I couldn't get it up the hill to the garage. Its now been in for 2 days and my mechanic hasn't been able to find the cause of the problem - no split pipes, nothing abviously wrong which to me implies a sensor fault or something internal. (He got the same codes when he read them on his fault code reader). Ford are useless - their answer was "those aren't our fault codes" Does anyone have any idea where to start looking on this???? I had the Turbo replaced to Ford's Technical Service Buliten last year (about 8000miles ago) so I'm hoping it's not turb0 related. Car has done 137k mostly motorway miles, DPF replaced at 110K, Turbo at 130K, Alternator at 137k (last week!) Air fliter 135k, fuel filter - not sure when it was replaced probably 90K, Any suggestions greatly received. Tony
  6. It's the same garage picking it up that did the wheel bearing so I'll ask them what the fault is and then if it is the drive shaft will broach the subjet of perhaps the nuts and bolts werent done up tight enough when they did the wheel bearing.
  7. Work done recently: DPF replaced approx 1 month ago Front passenger side wheel bearing replaced 3 months ago Cambelt, water pump and fluid change 3 months ago. It needs a rear wheel bearing doing (passenger's side - noisey as pointed out at MOT) and hand brake cable looking a bit worn (again pointed out at MOT in October) Just spoke to the local garage I use and he suggested a driveshaft problem and is coming out to have a look.
  8. Hi, I have a 2005 1.6TDCI Focus Estate manual with 114K on the clock. Yesterday evening I was moving the cars around so the Focus was ready for me to leave for work in the morning and I have had a problem with the gearbox. As I drove the car around the close it poped out of gear and I couldn't get the gears to re-engage, when I put my foot on the clutch and selected first it felt like the gear had engaged but all I heard was a grinding noise as if the gears hadn't meshed correctly and got no drive. I turned the engine off and with some help got it pushed back into a parking space. Anyone any idea what could be wrong? I have good pressure on the clutch pedal so I'm assuming the hydraulics are good, the gear stick felt like it was selecting gears so the gear linkages feel ok. Could it be the clutch has given up the ghost? Could the dual mass flywheel have come apart? Is the synchromesh on the garbox knackered? When we (read I) was pushing it back into the parking space my missus who was steering said it sounded like something was dragging on the floor - could this be the gears not being engaged properly i.e meeting teeth to teeth? I haven't had any problems with gear selection previously so am a bit stumped as to why it would suddenly go like this. Any help would me most appreciated. Thanks Tony