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Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About 137699

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    2006 S-max Titanium X Sport 2.5T
  1. So you & your mate's judgement is better than the accredited and trained MOT tester is it? If your judgment is so good, and you're convinced there is no safety issue, why are you going to such lengths to cover up the issue to hide it from the inspector? "i just poked the rear suspension leg and my screwdriver went right through it - has a large rust patch which im sure will fail so ive filled it with filler and covered it in underseal and weathered it so fingers crossed" If you're convinced it will fail then you must know it's a safety issue. Your arguments make no sense. Seems to me you KNOW it's a safety issue but, hey, what the hell, cover it up, get it through an MOT, and hope it doesn't give way and kill someone seems to be your attitude. Which quite frankly stinks and is utterly disrespectful to every other road user who happens to be in the vicinity of wherever you go. Fix it properly, or sell/scrap it. Putting lives at risk just so you can have the luxury of running a car is probably one of the most selfish things you can do.
  2. Take it to a council run MOT station and present it as is. Then they're not going to a "ripoff" MOT centre. If it passes there then it's fine. If it fails then it's dangerous - endof - no matter what you & your mate & your newton gauge actually think. The MOT is not an occupational hazard - it's an important safety test. If a car fails then it does so because it's unsafe - no matter what you may think. If you cannot afford to repair it properly then may I suggest that you sell it and buy an alternative car that doesn't have such issues, or use public transport. Running a car is a privilege, not a right.
  3. If that were my car I'd WANT it to fail the MOT. If you know there is that much rot on it, how can you possibly feel safe taking that our on the road? You're putting your own life at risk plus that of every other road user who happens to be anywhere near you when that lets go. Do the right thing - fix it or scrap it. Don't go risking innocent lives just to save a few quid.
  4. Looks the wrong shape to me. Is that a genuine one or an aftermarket one?
  5. Winter tyres are the key. I drive two smarts in the snow every year on winter rubber without any difficulty and they have significantly less weight than the KA.
  6. Alternator.
  7. PIAA xtreme white plus.
  8. Wheel speed sensor needs replacing.
  9. Hi there - removed the panel - found the fusebox behind but no sign of an ODB port?
  10. Thought this might be a useful tip for any mk1 (1996-2008) KA owners. When we were looking for ours we saw so many with bubbling around the filler cap and all the buyers advice is that it's caused by detritus gathering behind, thrown up from the rear wheels into the arch. Seeing as the one we bought had no sign of rust I decided to make a pre-emptive strike. Took out the filler neck rubber/plastic (easy to do - remove filler cap, undo 1 screw, then rotate the filler flap & rubber about 1/5 a turn anticlockwise to release then pull out) then cleaned away all the considerable collection of dirt that had built up behind with soapy water - easy to see why they rust here. Then liberally sprayed the whole area with Waxoyl before refitting. I'll be repeating this process every 6-12 months and hopefully that should prevent the rust appearing here. It's such an easy job - took me 10 mins this time, next time it will take me 5 mins. Really ford should have included it as part of a major service! So next job will be to do similar behind the sills and around the rear wiper spindle - though the latter is already bubbling on ours so that may be too little too late.
  11. Thanks. Picked it up today - 30 mile drive home and it never missed a beat. Carpets seem dry despite the fact the seller has no garage so it lives outside. Where is the ODB port? I didn't realise there was one on these - I assumed the ancient technology they're based on meant that they predated modern diags!
  12. Returning member here - had a string of Fords before (mostly fast fords) - this time I'm back having just bought a 2008 Ka Zetec Climate as a first car for my son who turns 17 next month. Looked at a lot of them before settling on this one - from older ones with the Endura engine, through plenty of rotten examples (sills & filler caps especially), some dodgy sellers, some with mayo in the oil cap, some with melted steering wheels... you name it we saw it - this one has 33,000 on the clock, fastidiously maintained, only hint of rot is around the rear wiper spindle and on seeing this one it was pretty clear to us it was THE one to buy. Paid £1600 for it, now thought I'd intro myself and ask for some hints & tips of what do check for, any pre-emptive fixes etc., as I'd like this car to be reliable for the lad while he's learning. So any common issues I should look out for, sort out before handing him the keys? Cheers
  13. It doesn't have to be break up of the DMF that causes the issue so no shavings does not rule it out. I have a friend who works for ford on engine design and he basically says TDCi plus cold start issues = DMF. Every time. Go ahead. Waste money on changing this that or the other, you'll come back to the same issue.
  14. FFS how many times does this get asked.... It's your DMF. Live with it. Unless you have VERY deep pockets. Most owners don't so just live with it.
  15. Pull and reinsert the fuses for radio & dashboard. Should reset the systems and return your missing items.