Ford Owners Club - Ford Forums Messages

Club Announcements

Discounted Car Insurance: Owners Club insurance could save you money on your car insurance. Get a quote

Review your Ford: Help others when it comes to buying a car like yours and review your Ford now

Ford Car Parts: View All ford car parts by category. Look for Ford Car Parts now!

AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


a1ison

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    5
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About a1ison

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Fiesta LX
  1. Hello,

    My name is Justina,i saw your profile today at this site (www.fordownersclub.com) and i love it also became intrested in you,i will also like to know you more,and i want you to send an email directely to my email address so that i can reply your mail and also give you my picture for you to know whom i am.Here is my email address(justinadavids23@yahoo.com) i believe we can move fro...

  2. Update: Turns out the screws were tox, which I didn't know, but managed to dremel edges to use a vice grip to get them out. Used the donor car's screws as a replacement. Dremelled the heads off in the end. The donor car's screws were fine (after using WD-40 on them) so they have been reused in the car. Got them off. As I was using the donor car's radiator, with the initial radiator being broken, I just cut off the pipes from the donor car and got them off easliy enough. Belt was the issue - had help with from my neighbour, who held the alternator in place which I got under the car to play with the screws. There is no noise now. Still to remove the central locking from the donor car. There is no problem with the exhaust so don't need that. Well, used "muck off" to rejuvenate the seal on the sun roof; put a wire coat hanger down the pipes from the sun roof. I tested the right side (dry side) on a jack by pouring water down the pipe to see where the water came out - then, on the left side, I checked the opposite area where the water came out on the right - looks like the holes had been sealed by welding. So drilled a small hole in one of the places, and actualy found some other holes under the sill, behind the mud flap and before the door hinge, so used the coat hanger for that too. Tested it - water came out via the hole I drilled and close to the hole behind the mud flap. However, as the floor was soaking there (imagine taking out washing without being spun), and it's rained once since then, so I don't know if my fudge has worked - the roof is dry, so I'm guessing the water can't / hasn't been able to, excape hence the flood inside. Only time will tell really. Got another issue - the car pulls to the left rather badly; and I need to adjust the right light bracket (or pay for someone to do it) so that the light sits correctly so that the bonnet can close without touching it. My neighbour used a jack (and wood blocks) to get it nearly right.
  3. I've been a very busy bee and worked on my car for 10 hours this weekend (see post http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18028&st=0&p=109722entry109722 about what needs done). However there's been an issue arise - my brake lights stay on all the time, unless I push the brake pedal up. I'm assuming there tension needs adjusting on either the pedal or the switch - which one would be advisable? Ive taken the switch out and put in my Mk3 switch (from the donor car) and it's a different size and is continually pressing on the brake pedal and therefore the brakes are engaged. Any advise would be great.
  4. Hi guys I joined yesterday to ask some things, which I had replies to, so thanks - but I need to know where the drain holes come out from the sun roof drains - I have a leaky sun roof - the passenger footwell is rather wet. I've taken the sun roof off, I've used "muck off" to rub into the seal (as I hear washing up liquid will rejuvinate them - and I think "muck off" is the same), put a wire coat hanger down both until there's 2" remaining of the hanger, and it's pressing on something - I want to see if I can see the end of the hanger from the other side - but I don't know where to look...under the wheel plastics? Also, when I took off the sun roof, turns out one of the metal sticky out things which hold one of the tongues of the sun roof at the front has broken (attached to the car). And the other sun roof tongues moves slightly (attached to the glass). Any suggests re fixing them would be greatly appreciated. Or should I just get a new sun roof? Thanks.
  5. Thanks stef123 and taffg for the quick replies. I'll borrow my brother's dremil. I do now remember demilling a screw on my bike a while ago to get it shifted... just forgot about it, so thanks for jogging my memory. It certainly sounds like the anchor nuts have sheared (I thought "!Removed!" when I did it). I'm figuring dremil will be the best bet, and buy anything to replace the screws. Unfortunately, Jersey doesn't have a Halfords - so handy when I lived on "the mainland"! I'll try the boiling water 1st, then the prising of the pipes - water does less damage than me! I did put water in to drive it the short distance - I thought a little in there for a short journey would be ok (ish). If it had been a longer drive then I'd have towed it. So I'm hoping it's not done too much damage to the engine in that short time. I plan to straighten the front by heating up the struts then hammering them (with wood between hammer and metal). I've been told I can also pull the struts with the other car (before I remove the rad from it!) if the hammer fails to do its job. I'm disappointed that it's going to take longer than I thought - but hopefully by the end of Saturday, I'll have a working car (albeit without the central locking by then). After that, I've got another motorbike to do up !! LOL
  6. Hi I've just registered on here and I'm in need of some help; I've bought a 1994 LX. It's a Cat 3 insurance so needs some work done - had an accident on the front right, so needs to be straightened and have a new radiator and bonnet. I've done up a cat 3 motorbike before, so figured I can do up this car too. Got a Haynes manual too. I need to remove the radiator and put a new one on from the doner car (my 1991 Ghia). However, a couple things I'm having trouble with as I'm not that used to cars: 1 - trying to remove the latch of the bonnet - the top 2 screws are so tight that they have started to strip. The bottom one is coming out fine though. How can I get these out? As they are round, I can't use a wrench. Should I dremel them off? 2 - the radiator needs to come off as it's bent and broken (plus it needs to come off for my to attempt the straightening). However on all 3 bolts (2 radiator, 1 rad fan) I started to unscrew them and then something broke and now the screws are just rotating and not undoing. So I can't get the rad off. Is the only way to drill these out? 3 - The pipes which lead the radiator are so tightly on that I couldn't get them off - what do people suggest to remove them off the rad? 4 - when I drove it from the place I got it, there was a horrendous noise coming from the right of the engine - it sounded like metal on metal. It started as soon as I moved the car, and didn't stop until I stopped the engine. The car was in motion for about 5 minutes. I'm assuming as the rad is broken, there's not much liquid in there it's the pump. Will it disappear when the rad is fixed or do I need to use the donor car for this too? Looking at the Haynes manual, there's different types of water pumps, so I'm not sure if there is an option to tighten the belt (if that's the issue) either. I plan for the donor car to give its central locking, exhaust, radiator too. The sun roof leaks too, so I'm going to be looking at that also. Thanks in advance for your help.