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Fanta

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    27
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Fanta

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Fiesta
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Hampshire
  1. WP 000534

    From the album Rusty Spark Plugs

    © Jimmy Brown

  2. WP 000531

    From the album Rusty Spark Plugs

    © Jimmy Brown

  3. WP 000521

    From the album Rusty Spark Plugs

    © Jimmy Brown

  4. WP 000499

    From the album Rusty Spark Plugs

    © Jimmy Brown

  5. WP 000492

    From the album Rusty Spark Plugs

    © Jimmy Brown

  6. I thought I'd share my recent experience... I've owned my 2002 Fiesta for 2.5 years and have only seen the spark plug bay a few times, but on those few occasions I've wondered why it's rusty with no signs of water. Every time I've looked, I've never seen water. So the car started miss-firing, which is odd considering the plugs were only two years old. You can't see the plugs that well with the rocker cover on, but the leads were ok so I just bought some new plugs. The first plug removed was really rusty... and the second plug snapped! Yes, I did a lot of swearing and thought "this is going to be expensive!" A non'Ford garage said they couldn't look at it for a few days because of the Easter weekend, but told me to soak the plugs in WD-40.There was a lot of rusty bits around the plugs so I hoovered around the plugs before spraying. Surprisingly the ceramic part of the broken plug hoovered up leaving only the shell to remove. Whilst researching on how to deal with broken spark plugs I found the most common way was to drill the centre of the plug then use an 'Easy Out' or 'Screw/Bolt Extractor' (same thing, different name).Now that the centre part of the plug was removed it didn't need drilling, so I thought I'd potentially save my self the expensive bill and try an Easy Out, for the price of £6 from Amazon. The Easy Out came in a pack of five different sizes and I had to use the largest, which was a perfect fit. The plug case took a lot of force to remove and I thought I was going to cause further damage, but once the extractor had bitten the plug shell broke free with no signs of damage. obviously water was causing this, but I didn't know how. The internet said it's either the core plugs or washer jets, which I found hard to believe. I poured some water over the jet and yes a few drops did run though on the the air box where it would eventually end up on the rocker cover. I didn't think this was plausible and I couldn't see how a slow drip would fill such a large area. I waited to see what would happen when it rained and sure enough within just two hours there was a surprisingly large puddle on the rocker cover. So with a few days of constant rain and no use of the car, the spark plug bay would probably be flooded and take some time for the water to evaporate. So, all this simply because there was no rubber seal around the washer jets. I didn't bother trying to seal them myself when new jets only cost £6. I also bought the new 'mist' type jets (part No.1708796) that are on the Focus - they work well, but nothing to shout about in my opinion. The drivers side jet partially sprays on the low non-wiping area and runs across to the drivers door window, which annoys me slightly. So a potentially very expensive repair fixed for £12! Not bad.
  7. To stop the MIL coming on I tried a "Mil Eliminator", which I bought from pumaspeed.co.uk. This only worked for a few miles because it's designed for de-cat exhaust systems where the emissions are higher. So my second and cheapest option was an "O2 spacer" bought for £7 on eBay. I put it on about three months ago and the MIL hasn't come on once. All it does is pulls the sensor from out the exhaust so it's not in direct flow, which means it gives a weaker/false reading. Unless the Cat' got worse since last year, it should pass the MOT fine. I spoke to pumaspeed about having the parameters changed on the ECU and that would've cost a few hundred.
  8. Hi, I was having the same issue, but it's now cured for just £7. It's an o2 sensor spacer/cheater, basically positions the sensor away from the exhaust flow to give a weaker reading. I still have a deteriorated cat. but at least the annoying MIL is off. I spent ages reading into the P0420 code & wrote about it here:
  9. So prior to my MOT I fitted the new genuine back box and centre piece Reset the MIL and went for a long drive while recording the data The MIL came back on for the P0420 code So changing the exhaust did nothing My car had its MOT, I didn't mention the code, the MIL was on but hidden, and it still passed! Nothing was said about the emissions and the figures were good. I don't get it. I give up, but these are my last thoughts on the matter. The only way I can monitor the catalysts performance is by viewing the oxygen sensors on a graph, this way I can compare my previous readings and see if there's any change, if there isn't then I can assume the catalytic converter is fine and will pass. This graph is showing 30sec. The left half is at idle and right is 2500rpm. The red line is the oxygen sensor before the cat and green is after. Red line is fine, but the green should be a steady horizontal line. The green line following the red indicates the cat isn't working correctly. The previous MOT test said the emissions were high, but this could've been because it was a frosty cold day and they didn't let the engine warm up enough - the cat works properly when it's really hot. It also didn't help that I took the heat shield off, this would obviously help keep the cat hotter. I've put the heat shield back on now. I didn’t mention that I tried a product called 'Cataclean' last year, this was after an MOT. I didn't record the data, but it did something because the MIL went out and stayed off... until I refuelled. It does something to lower the emissions, but only lasts with the tank of fuel that it’s in with - good I guess if you know your emissions are high. It seems that the parameters for the oxygen sensors are too sensitive - it's warning me that the cat isn't working properly. I'd rather the garage told me when the cat was failing rather than the car, and it’s annoying that the MIL is always on because I'm not sure if it's effecting the cars performance. The reason the MIL turned off on motorways was probably because the cat reached a more efficient operating temperature than it usually does. I've come across a garage called 'Pumaspeed' who say they can change the parameters of this sensor to stop it coming on, costs about £70. It's mainly done for sports exhausts where the rear oxygen sensor can't be connected, and if it's not connected then the MIL will always be on. For me, the key thing to remember is - if the engine wasn't functioning properly there'd be a code, and if a sensor wasn't working there'd be another code. I only have one code and it points to the cat, and there probably is something wrong with it, but it works well enough for me to leave it alone until an MOT test says otherwise. I'll probably consider having the parameters changed, so I can see the MIL if something else went wrong. I found these two websites interesting to read, which helped me decide that the converter is probably less efficient than it used to be - http://www.batauto.c...les/catfailure/ http://www.autoshop1...m/forms/h64.pdf It doesn't help that I don't have any history for my car, but I can only assume that something has happened for the converter to deteriorate. Remember that I'm no expert in this matter, some of my technical talk might be incorrect and the scan tool I use probably isn't as sophisticated as what professionals use.
  10. My 3dr Fiesta Mk6 has been wearing a pair of ClimAir for a week, and I've taken them off because they're not as good as I thought they'd be. They do slot in well and I fitted them correctly, but my windows really struggled to fully close. You're supposed to close them and leave for 12hrs, but to fully close them you'll need two people, one to press the button and the other to force the glass up using hands. This might not be the case with every car. They do reduce noise, but not as well as I'd hoped. I think they work best if the windows are open as far as the deflector overlaps, otherwise you still get the thumping sound in the back, but only at high speeds. If the windows are touching any part of the deflector, I found they'll make an creaking sound whenever the chassis moves. They look good, and they do reduce the noise but not as much as I wanted. It's good that you can leave the windows open on a hot day and not have to worry if it suddenly rains. My Fiesta doesn't have aircon and I was hoping these would help make it cooler and reduce the noise, but the fans do a better job and make less noise.
  11. DSC03640

    From the album Spoiler

  12. DSC03637

    From the album Spoiler

  13. DSC03636

    From the album Spoiler

  14. DSC03633

    From the album Spoiler

  15. DSC03628

    From the album Spoiler