Fanta

Budding Enthusiast
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About Fanta

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Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Fiesta
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Hampshire
  1. Rusty Spark Plugs

    Water in spark plug bay issue.
  2. I thought I'd share my recent experience... I've owned my 2002 Fiesta for 2.5 years and have only seen the spark plug bay a few times, but on those few occasions I've wondered why it's rusty with no signs of water. Every time I've looked, I've never seen water. So the car started miss-firing, which is odd considering the plugs were only two years old. You can't see the plugs that well with the rocker cover on, but the leads were ok so I just bought some new plugs. The first plug removed was really rusty... and the second plug snapped! Yes, I did a lot of swearing and thought "this is going to be expensive!" A non'Ford garage said they couldn't look at it for a few days because of the Easter weekend, but told me to soak the plugs in WD-40.There was a lot of rusty bits around the plugs so I hoovered around the plugs before spraying. Surprisingly the ceramic part of the broken plug hoovered up leaving only the shell to remove. Whilst researching on how to deal with broken spark plugs I found the most common way was to drill the centre of the plug then use an 'Easy Out' or 'Screw/Bolt Extractor' (same thing, different name).Now that the centre part of the plug was removed it didn't need drilling, so I thought I'd potentially save my self the expensive bill and try an Easy Out, for the price of £6 from Amazon. The Easy Out came in a pack of five different sizes and I had to use the largest, which was a perfect fit. The plug case took a lot of force to remove and I thought I was going to cause further damage, but once the extractor had bitten the plug shell broke free with no signs of damage. obviously water was causing this, but I didn't know how. The internet said it's either the core plugs or washer jets, which I found hard to believe. I poured some water over the jet and yes a few drops did run though on the the air box where it would eventually end up on the rocker cover. I didn't think this was plausible and I couldn't see how a slow drip would fill such a large area. I waited to see what would happen when it rained and sure enough within just two hours there was a surprisingly large puddle on the rocker cover. So with a few days of constant rain and no use of the car, the spark plug bay would probably be flooded and take some time for the water to evaporate. So, all this simply because there was no rubber seal around the washer jets. I didn't bother trying to seal them myself when new jets only cost £6. I also bought the new 'mist' type jets (part No.1708796) that are on the Focus - they work well, but nothing to shout about in my opinion. The drivers side jet partially sprays on the low non-wiping area and runs across to the drivers door window, which annoys me slightly. So a potentially very expensive repair fixed for £12! Not bad.
  3. engine management light

    To stop the MIL coming on I tried a "Mil Eliminator", which I bought from pumaspeed.co.uk. This only worked for a few miles because it's designed for de-cat exhaust systems where the emissions are higher. So my second and cheapest option was an "O2 spacer" bought for £7 on eBay. I put it on about three months ago and the MIL hasn't come on once. All it does is pulls the sensor from out the exhaust so it's not in direct flow, which means it gives a weaker/false reading. Unless the Cat' got worse since last year, it should pass the MOT fine. I spoke to pumaspeed about having the parameters changed on the ECU and that would've cost a few hundred.
  4. Fiesta 1.25 (2003)

    Hi, I was having the same issue, but it's now cured for just £7. It's an o2 sensor spacer/cheater, basically positions the sensor away from the exhaust flow to give a weaker reading. I still have a deteriorated cat. but at least the annoying MIL is off. I spent ages reading into the P0420 code & wrote about it here:
  5. engine management light

    So prior to my MOT I fitted the new genuine back box and centre piece Reset the MIL and went for a long drive while recording the data The MIL came back on for the P0420 code So changing the exhaust did nothing My car had its MOT, I didn't mention the code, the MIL was on but hidden, and it still passed! Nothing was said about the emissions and the figures were good. I don't get it. I give up, but these are my last thoughts on the matter. The only way I can monitor the catalysts performance is by viewing the oxygen sensors on a graph, this way I can compare my previous readings and see if there's any change, if there isn't then I can assume the catalytic converter is fine and will pass. This graph is showing 30sec. The left half is at idle and right is 2500rpm. The red line is the oxygen sensor before the cat and green is after. Red line is fine, but the green should be a steady horizontal line. The green line following the red indicates the cat isn't working correctly. The previous MOT test said the emissions were high, but this could've been because it was a frosty cold day and they didn't let the engine warm up enough - the cat works properly when it's really hot. It also didn't help that I took the heat shield off, this would obviously help keep the cat hotter. I've put the heat shield back on now. I didn’t mention that I tried a product called 'Cataclean' last year, this was after an MOT. I didn't record the data, but it did something because the MIL went out and stayed off... until I refuelled. It does something to lower the emissions, but only lasts with the tank of fuel that it’s in with - good I guess if you know your emissions are high. It seems that the parameters for the oxygen sensors are too sensitive - it's warning me that the cat isn't working properly. I'd rather the garage told me when the cat was failing rather than the car, and it’s annoying that the MIL is always on because I'm not sure if it's effecting the cars performance. The reason the MIL turned off on motorways was probably because the cat reached a more efficient operating temperature than it usually does. I've come across a garage called 'Pumaspeed' who say they can change the parameters of this sensor to stop it coming on, costs about £70. It's mainly done for sports exhausts where the rear oxygen sensor can't be connected, and if it's not connected then the MIL will always be on. For me, the key thing to remember is - if the engine wasn't functioning properly there'd be a code, and if a sensor wasn't working there'd be another code. I only have one code and it points to the cat, and there probably is something wrong with it, but it works well enough for me to leave it alone until an MOT test says otherwise. I'll probably consider having the parameters changed, so I can see the MIL if something else went wrong. I found these two websites interesting to read, which helped me decide that the converter is probably less efficient than it used to be - http://www.batauto.c...les/catfailure/ http://www.autoshop1...m/forms/h64.pdf It doesn't help that I don't have any history for my car, but I can only assume that something has happened for the converter to deteriorate. Remember that I'm no expert in this matter, some of my technical talk might be incorrect and the scan tool I use probably isn't as sophisticated as what professionals use.
  6. Fiesta Mk7 Wind Deflectors

    My 3dr Fiesta Mk6 has been wearing a pair of ClimAir for a week, and I've taken them off because they're not as good as I thought they'd be. They do slot in well and I fitted them correctly, but my windows really struggled to fully close. You're supposed to close them and leave for 12hrs, but to fully close them you'll need two people, one to press the button and the other to force the glass up using hands. This might not be the case with every car. They do reduce noise, but not as well as I'd hoped. I think they work best if the windows are open as far as the deflector overlaps, otherwise you still get the thumping sound in the back, but only at high speeds. If the windows are touching any part of the deflector, I found they'll make an creaking sound whenever the chassis moves. They look good, and they do reduce the noise but not as much as I wanted. It's good that you can leave the windows open on a hot day and not have to worry if it suddenly rains. My Fiesta doesn't have aircon and I was hoping these would help make it cooler and reduce the noise, but the fans do a better job and make less noise.
  7. Spoiler

  8. Uk Ford Fusion Spoiler

    I just googled ST spoiler fixings and was very surprised to read that it's also fixed with just double sided tape. I can't believe Ford haven't secured a spoiler that size with bolts - not only would it stay on, it wouldn't get stolen either!
  9. Car Stuck In Gear

    Thanks for your response. I've read more into clutch drag and the symptoms seem to match mine - the clutch isn't fully disengaging. I pretty much always get the grinding noise when putting it in reverse. I haven't checked the gearbox oil - I understand that these gearboxes don't require oil changes during the life of the car. My car has done 45k and is 10yrs old - I don't have a detailed history for it, but I'm assuming the clutch oil has never been bled. It's strange that it only happens on a cold start - I think the higher warming up revs might also be why it's not going into gear. It's okay at changing gear while moving, just not pulling away. When stationary with the engine running, I've noticed more that the car will nudge forward when I have to force it into 1st.
  10. Uk Ford Fusion Spoiler

    It's now bolted and stuck with double sided adhesive foam - here's how did it: Re-taping Because I'd used the previous tape (blue in top picture) I had to pick it off and start again. I spent some time shopping for the right tape, but considering I'm using bolts I'm not too worried about its adhesive strength. I found this 12mm wide x 1mm thick "automotive double sided foam tape" on eBay for less than £5. I emailed the seller and they confirmed that this tape is suitable. Marking The Hole There're a few ways of marking the holes, but I found this way easy enough. I'll try to explain. The paper was stuck to the spoiler before being stuck to the car. Cut two bits of paper, roughly the same size. Use a hole punch for the holes. Put a strip of masking tape on one side of paper. Line the paper hole up with where the bolt sticks out on the spoiler. Then stick the tape down to the bottom of the spoiler. Place the spoiler on the car with the paper in between. Position the spoiler where it seems to fit snug to the car, use the boot break light to centre it to the car. Get help with sticking the exposed paper to the car. Once stuck, get help unpicking the tape from the spoiler. Now remove the spoiler and use a pen to mark the holes. It's slightly nerve-racking that you've got to get these holes right first time, so I double checked the position of my markings by measuring the distance from the hole to the edge of the boot frame, top and sides. Hole Making I started the hole by tapping a nail to help prevent the drill slipping. Then used a smaller bit before going all the way through with a 6mm bit. I've read that you can damage the surrounding paint if it gets too hot, but I kept the drill on the slowest speed and didn't see a problem. The larger Inner Hole I found this part the trickiest, trying to line up and mark a hole on curved metal. Using a strong long nail, place it through the top hole and hammer it hard enough to make a dimple on the inside. It's difficult getting the nail to dig on metal at an angle, but if you sharpen the point it will work. I could just post the measurements now I've done it, but not right now. I used this "taper drill bit" to make the 16mm holes, it's supposed to be easier for drilling metal and reduces friction/heat. I found it easy enough to use, though you either have to mark out 16mm on the metal or keep stopping to measure the hole. Done After finishing the holes I painted the bare metal with Hammerite... just in case it rusts! To finish it off I bought these 16mm blanking grommets from the almighty eBay for just over a £1, which makes it look quite tidy. The Bolts This bolt should be with every factory fitted spoiler (not sure about the ST spoilers), the problem I've found is that don't have a nut attached. I came across a great company (westfieldfasteners.co.uk) where you can buy nuts/washer in any quantity and not have to spend a small fortune on multi-packs. This 6mm (M6) bolt is obviously unique, so not any old bolt will work. Previous Posts Before bolting this spoiler I did try just using the foam tape (read older posts), but had problems getting it to stick, and this is why: The spoiler was second hand with foam still attached and the body shop said they had the tools to get the stuff off. I don't know what these tools were but they made an absolute mess of the plastic surface (left). The right picture is my attempt at spraying (another spoiler), as you can see I removed the foam with a smooth surface, without special tools. This is why the spoiler wouldn't stick well, because the spoiler and foam surface was so uneven it wasn't making full contact. Some groves are so deep that the foam doesn't touch the car. Well that's it, job done.
  11. Car Stuck In Gear

    I've still got the same problem and after giving it a bit more thought, I'm thinking the hydraulic fluid might need replacing.The problem feels like the clutch hasn't fully disengaged, it's like the clutch hasn't been pressed. The clutch fluid shares the same reservoir as the brakes, and it has it's own bleed nipple located above the gearbox. I'll change the fluid one day soon, but I might as well do the brakes too If I've got to buy fluid. I'm not sure, but I've heard pressure builds up in the brake/clutch system as the car warms up - might be why the problem only happens on a cold start?
  12. Uk Ford Fusion Spoiler

    I've been monitoring my spoiler since fitting it almost two days ago - the car's been used a few times and the spoiler held at 70mph. I wasn't too pleased this morning when I noticed the spoiler wasn't fully stuck down on either end. I'm not too confident about this double sided foam now. To be honest, after the respray I looked at the tape they'd put on and thought it didn't look thick enough, it must be about 1mm. When I bought my spoiler off eBay the foam was still on it, and it did seem much thicker. I've looked at a factory fitted spoiler and you can see the foam in between the spoiler a boot surface, whereas mine you can't because it's that thin. *12hrs later after writing the above* I've taken the spoiler off as it wasn't sticking fully, kept coming away from the boot surface. It didn't take much effort to pull off once I got my fingers under it - I'm glad I took it off rather than it self. I don't know what adhesive foam Ford use, but it's high quality and can't be cheap - I've seen some 3M tapes that cost £70 a roll. Getting the foam off the spoiler wasn't as easy, it was stuck really well and took ages to pick off - it shows that it wasn't fully making contact with the car where the foam sits in a recess, but I can't find adhesive foam that's more than 1mm thick. Well, if I put it back on it will be bolted and stuck with thicker (2mm) foam - I've imagined it coming off on the motorway and going through someone's windscreen, and the possible consequences scares me!
  13. Uk Ford Fusion Spoiler

    Very good point Stormin. I have read that cycle racks aren't advisable for cars with spoilers, I guess it all depends of the rack and whether there's a lot of downwards pressure from the top straps. Most of the pressure on my old cycle rack went onto the bumper. If I were going to use a cycle rack then I defiantly have the spoiler bolted, not just in the ends of the spoiler but the centre too - I still wouldn't be too happy about the possibility of stress on the bolts, pulling on the sheet metal of the boot lid... it's not exactly thick/strong metal.
  14. Uk Ford Fusion Spoiler

    I just fitted a genuine 3dr spoiler to my mk6 Fiesta. I spent a lot of time finding out how this spoiler is fitted, and what confused me is why they had bolts fitted. There are two bolts that go either end of the spoiler, but they don't screw into anything, there's not nut on the inside of the boot. I clarified this with two people who had removed factory fitted spoilers that are the same size as mine. I can only think that the bolts are there as guides so it's easier to fit at the factory - otherwise you have to do what I did, which is to mark out where it sits using masking tape. I'm curtain that the bolts would be need for the larger ST spoiler. So the bolts don't actually hold the spoiler to the boot, it's only double sided sticky foam tape, which is what Ford use to fit these. I was a bit sceptical about this fixing method until I came across this thread where they use double sided foam. I bought my spoiler off eBay, which was blue and got resprayed for £120. The body shop fitted the foam tape for me, but I did look into buying it before hand - it was under £10 on eBay and made by Scotch/M3. I thoroughly cleaned the area the spoiler was sticking to and made sure it was dry. Then I placed the spoiler on the car before sticking and got the missus to mark the edges of the spoiler using the masking tape. You've got to get it right first time - and I guess that's why lining up bolts with holes is so much easier. I have read a few forums of people who use Tiger Seal to fit these, which I believe is strong enough to hold, but it's just the possibility of putting too much sealant on and when you press it down is oozes around the edges - too messy. Plus you'd have to hold it while it sets, whereas the foam held instantly.
  15. Car Stuck In Gear

    I can only sympathise and also ask for someone's help. Sometimes when I first start my '02 Fiesta it refuses to go into any gear, I really have to force the gear stick. It's fine once it's in gear and I get moving and it won't do it again during the journey. It only does it on a cold start, which makes me think the engine needs to be warm to free something, but it doesn't get stuck on every cold start so it can't be this. I've examined the gear lever linkage and it seems fine. Sometimes I think I'm going to break something when forcing it into gear, there's just no give. I've tried to understand how gear boxes work and I can only assume that something isn't lining up inside the box. I've tried all sorts suggestions from the web, but nothing works. The only thing I can suggest and will try myself, is to nudge the car forward or back slightly (engine running in neutral) in the hope that something in the box lines up so it will get in gear.