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Budding Enthusiast
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About lasse1955

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  • Ford Model
    fusion 03
  1. rich.d81, Mogger and many others: It really makes a boost to my life to read the stories you write, and collect the happiness within. I sure am glad my thread being helpful. I also feel good about the fact that many of you added some tip and make some better explanations than me. I just wish I had taken more photos. leccy: Most of the work, to remove the actuator from the car, is done from underneath. If I remember right, a bolt (or two) that fastens the actuator by the gear box is better released over the bonnet ( but I really don’t remember exactly, as it is two years since I did this, but you sure find it out when you start working).
  2. Thank You fliegergott! It is always nice to be able to help.
  3. Hi jaw. This is only some thoughts from me. I really don’t know how to synchronize the motor with the rack when the marking is lost, but the motor has got a worm gear that is hard to rotate by hand. So I guess you can assume that the motor has held its position. The cogs are quite "wide" so there are a limited numbers of positions to "try"... and I don’t think anything will break if you got it wrong (no promise!). Try to get the gearbox in "neutral" (if it isn’t already), by turning the gearbox shaft. Push the car forward/backwards to check that the neutral is engaged (gearbox in neutral is a common position when this error happens). Put the rack in the middle position and mount the motor. Then mount the actuator on the car. Start the car and make a wish it was the right position. If it wasn’t successful,dismount and move the rack one cog. Try again...and again.... I haven’t tried this so I really don’t know if it works. But it is how I should work if I got the problem. Correct me someone, if you think this is craziness. Good luck. PS. If no one has turned the gearbox shaft, you maybe can figure out what position the rack had when it was removed. DS.
  4. I wish I could say what the problem is, but I cant. I agree with you that it is probably down to electronics more than mechanics. Some hint is that the gearbox shaft, which is going into shift actuator, should not be moving up and down all the time when the ignition is on. When my rack was stuck, the motor was "humming" 4 or 5 times as it tried to turn the actuator and then it "gave up" as it didnt succeed. Also motor number 2 turned, as it "tried to help" motor no 1 to put in a gear. After that they didn’t turn any more while the ignition was on, until I switched of the ignition. When I turned on the ignition again then they behaved the same way. Every time I pushed or pulled shift stick, the motors behaved like I described above and then they didn’t move any more until I moved the shift stick again. If your actuator behaves like this it dosen´t succeed put in the gears for some reason. If so, there may be some mechanical trouble anyway. I wish you luck.
  5. Thank you for your encouraging words. I am glad you could make use of my experience. It is always nice to be able to help somebody. Lasse
  6. Yes, to prevent water (with road salt) to penetrate the space between the plastic bush and the aluminum housing you can seal this space with some elastic mass. I sealed mine with glue, as I glued the plastic cap at the end of the bush. Only glue, or something similar, should be enough in your case (clean area first). I have got information by "Meikel_K" that this problem has been notified, so that later actuator parts, and spare parts, have a similar modification.
  7. See my topic at My link
  8. (Sorry for some bad English language in this….) The durashift on my Fusion has malfunctioned sometimes the last month. No reverse sometimes, no forward gears other times, gears get stuck and at last no gear at all (but the display showed “4”).. Always with the sprocket warning-light lit. Ford workshop wants 1000£ to fix it, at least. But the solution was simple, if you are normally handy and can spare an evening. Everyone think durashift is complicated, complicated and more complicated, BUT THIS IS NO ROCKET SIENCE!! The problem was the shift actuator (see picture 1). The shaft from the gearbox that is connected to the actuator was stuck. It should be possible to turn and pull, if normal. So I disconnected the gearbox shaft from the actuator (one screw), and discovered that the gearbox shaft then was possible to turn, but the actuator was stuck (motor no 1. The one with the white plastic ball joint). I connected 12v to the actuator motor (motor 1. Pin 1 and 6) but the motor was only "humming". It was really stuck. I removed the actuator from the gearbox (4 screws). Then I removed the actuator motor no.1 (four screws, se picture 2.) but the actuator was still stuck. It was not possible to push and pull the slider (that now should be really easy to move, as the motor now was gone). I took a big screwdriver and bent it loose, and discovered then that the rack was stuck in its plastic slide surface (I don’t know the correct English word) inside the actuator housing. The plastic was a just little deformed but enough to get the rack to stuck really hard. I drilled a hole in the closed end of the “plastic slide surface” (se picture 3.) and then a bigger hole (see picture 4) to see well and to be able to put in some tool. Now I saw a little “bump” in the plastic surface (and some dirt). I took a 16mm reamer to make the plastic surface smooth (picture 4.). Now the rack was sliding nice and easy. If you can’t borrow a 16mm reamer you sure can use a sharp knife or a file or a Dremel or something similar. I put a plastic cap over the drilled hole and glued it (picture 5). I mounted the actuator, and the gearbox is working as new. It feels so good! Cost? Nothing! Some tips: DON’T turn the motor when you have removed it from the actuator!!!!! It has position sensors in it, and needs to match the position of the rack!! Make a mark on the rack before you bend it lose, it must match the position of the motor when you mount them together. I am not really sure what causes this, but plastic deformation over time is nothing new. But more likely I think the problem is water. As the plastic slide tube is pointing upwards I guess a small amount of water have come between the plastic tube and the aluminum housing. Either has it there frozen to ice and therefore expanded to a “bump” in the plastic, but more likely it has there caused corrosion on the aluminum which expands to a “bump” inside the plastic tube. As I glued the cap I assume no more water can enter, to cause more problems. Greetings from Sweden.